Initial preparation, and what to do with new skis. Proper preparation of skis for competitions Preparing a new ski for skating

In order for skiing in any terrain and in any weather to be a real pleasure, it is necessary to provide appropriate, high-quality training sports equipment for use. For this, special lubricants are used: paraffins, which ensure the skis glide and stay on the snow.

The quality of the ski's glide and the amount of pleasant emotions from skiing depend on how carefully and thoughtfully all the accompanying effects are selected and applied.

How to choose paraffin for different types of skis?

Sliding lubricants are necessary to improve the sliding properties of equipment. It is important to consider the features of applying such ointments:

to ski classic move The substances should be applied only to the heel and nose areas;
to ski skating substances are applied to the entire surface of the equipment.

As for grip lubrication, its main function is to provide minimal kickback during classic running. The substance is applied to the central zone.

The holding ointment allows the skier to push, while pressure arises in the central zone of the block, as a result of which the ski seems to stick to the layer of snow. The connecting link between the ski and the snow is the holding ointment, into which the ice crystals penetrate. After pushing off, the ski should easily free itself from the snow, which will ensure good glide.

Before purchasing a specific product for lubricating the surface of skis, you need to understand what result you need to achieve.

For short periods skiing or relax on ski resort Once a year, the process of preparing sports equipment is not so complicated. Those wishing to take part in competitions and climb onto podiums must pay Special attention preparing skis.

Fluorocarbon waxes

This type of paraffin provides high water-repellent properties to skis and guarantees their excellent glide on snow.

low fluoride - used at low snow moisture levels (less than 60%);
medium fluoride - used in cases where the snow humidity is at an average level (from 60% to 80%);
high fluoride - suitable for high level snow humidity (more than 80%).

Which paraffin is better?

If we talk about the quality of waxes presented on store shelves, then, first of all, it is necessary to take into account their cost.

Some of the cheapest paraffins are fluoride-free waxes. If funds are limited, you can purchase the entire the lineup such waxes, namely: CH4 (-10...-32), CH6 (-6...-12), LF7 (-2...-8), LF8 (+4...-1), HF10 (+10...0). Thus, skis can be prepared for skiing at any snow temperature.

The presence of fluorine in paraffin indicates that the wax can be used at high snow temperatures; in addition, the skis are reliably protected from dirt on the piste and glide perfectly on the snow. The cost of such waxes is much higher and the purchase of such products is not always justified or possible.

If the funds are minimal, then you can get by with basic paraffin (there is no marking on it) and treat the surface of the skis only with it.

How to apply paraffin to skis?

In this matter, the main thing to remember is that any ski lubricant is better than no lubricant. This is especially true for skis made of wood.

To prepare sports equipment for skating, you will need two types of wax: for sliding and for holding.

Instructions for applying paraffin to skis:

For the procedure you need: an iron (if you don’t have a special one, you can use an ordinary household one, but without holes in the sole), a damp cloth, a plastic scraper, a nylon brush, a dry soft cloth.
The first surface treatment of the ski is carried out at a temperature of 65-70 degrees with paraffins that are soft in consistency (fluorine-free).
Using a warm iron, it is necessary to heat the entire surface of the sports equipment or only the heel or toe areas, taking into account what kind of skiing the skis are intended for.
Using a heated iron, touch the prepared paraffin and drip a little onto the surface of the ski. Using an iron, melt the wax into the surface of the equipment, while constantly ensuring that a layer of paraffin is maintained between the skis and the iron. Leave the ski for 10-15 minutes until the wax completely hardens.
Then you need to remove the paraffin using a scraper and polish with a prepared dry cloth. Using a similar method, you should treat the remaining sliding surfaces of sports equipment and apply paraffin to the base layer of wax that matches the temperature of the snow. The method for applying weathering wax is similar to the method described.

How to remove paraffin from skis?

In order to clean the surface of the ski from paraffin, you should use a special remover or scraper.

Washing removes the base layer of paraffin, in which case the wax will have to be applied starting from scratch. If the base layer of wax remains on the surface of the ski, you can subsequently apply paraffin to it, suitable for any weather conditions.

To clean skis you need: a special machine for attaching equipment, a scraper made of organic glass or plastic.

Instructions for removing paraffin:

First you need to secure the ski in the machine.
Movements of the scraper are carried out from the nose of the ski to the heel. The scraper should be used evenly without changing the pressure. This will avoid deformation of the ski.

Note: It is important to clean the scraper from excess paraffin and monitor the sharpness of the object. If necessary, sand it with sandpaper.

Particular attention must be paid to processing the edge of the skis and the groove. To do this you will need scrapers of the required shape.
The remaining parts of paraffin must be removed with a stiff brush. Movements should be short.
In order to clean sliding surface skis from adhered dirt or remove all layers of paraffin, including the base one, a hot method is required. To do this, you will need a special iron or a household iron without holes in the sole. Using an iron, you need to apply paraffin to the ski, and before it hardens, treat the surface with a scraper. If the action is performed correctly, a roll of paraffin, dirt and other substances used should form.

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The ongoing “cycle or paraffin” debate will never go away. Adherents of either method of preparing the sliding surface of skis (SSL) have the right to their own opinion, confirmed by successful experience. This article is dedicated to “paraffin specialists”.

Purpose of basic processing - create conditions under which the sliding surface of skis acquires adhesive, electrostatic and chemically active properties designed to effectively retain lubricant and reject dirt. This treatment has a significant impact on the gliding process of the ski in any conditions.

We will need: ski profile, iron, set of brushes (bronze, steel, hard nylon), plastic scraper, groove scraper, non-synthetic fabric (fiberlin), set of paraffins (BW, BWG, BWLF - Start or analogues).

Sequence of actions for basic ski processing

is described below, we perform each point first with one, then with the other ski and move on to the next one:

1. Go 20-25 times from toe to heel with a brass brush with light pressure, then 5-7 times with a steel brush. The use of a steel brush after a brass brush is always necessary (we will do this further in the text without additional reminder). The purpose of the first point is to remove the transport lubricant; it can be in the form of a film rather than paraffin. If there is a layer of paraffin, use a scraper first.

2. Walk 10-15 times from toe to heel with a steel brush. The goal is to remove the smallest particles from the pores of the joint venture and open the structure from old plastic fibers. In principle, such a ski will perform quite well. But not in all conditions.

3. Using Base Wax paraffin (or any low-melting option) at an iron temperature of about 85-90 degrees. pour in SPL, level and remove while hot without pressing hard on the plastic scraper so as not to damage the surface. Repeat 2-3 times until the color of the removed paraffin is free of dirty spots. Do not let the ski cool down. The goal is to extract small particles from the pores of the plastic. Apply BW again and melt with an iron. As the paraffin is absorbed, add new one. Duration - about 10-15 minutes, without allowing the ski to cool down. The goal is to absorb paraffin deep into the SP to close the pores and effectively retain the racing wax in the future. At the end, coat the ski again with paraffin, melt it and leave to cool.

4. Remove BW paraffin. To do this, remove the paraffin from the groove. Next, use a scraper at an angle of 45 degrees. to the surface (acute angle - from the side of the heel) without strong pressure, move from toe to heel. Continue until the paraffin is removed. Next, clean first with a nylon brush until the dust disappears (20-30 passes), then several passes with a brass brush (4-5).

5. Set the iron temperature to about 135-140 degrees. Cover the SPL with Base Wax Graphite paraffin, similar to step 3. Do not cover the transparent part of the ski tip with BWG! The goal is to close the pores with a graphite composition to impart antistatic properties to the SPL and create a barrier to prevent dirt from penetrating into the plastic. It should be taken into account that this paraffin is very fragile and refractory, so you need to touch the iron and SPL with the bar more often, melt it in several passes, without holding the iron in one place. After completely covering the SPL with paraffin, remove it with a scraper after 20-30 seconds, clean it with a brass brush and cover it again with BWG. Repeat again - 3 times in total. Last time ends with cleaning with a brass brush SPL. Allow the ski to cool. Finally clean the SPL until the gray spots disappear with a brass brush.

6. Clean the SPL with a brass brush - 10-15 movements along the ski from toe to heel. Wipe the joint with a clean non-synthetic cloth (fiberlene).

7. Apply Base Wax Low Fluoro - base low fluoride paraffin. Iron temperature - 130-135 degrees. Apply to SPL, melt, let cool to room temperature. Remove with a scraper, clean with brass (5-7 times), then nylon (20-30 times) brushes. Repeat 2 more times, 3 in total.

8. Apply basic purple (for upcoming heat) or blue (for cold) paraffin to the joint.

Basic training skiing is finished. The SPL should have a thick black, greasy, glossy tint. This operation should take 2.5-3 hours for one pair of skis. For classics, the block is not processed!

The effectiveness of the technique has been proven by practice at all distances, especially at long distances and in abrasive, abrasive snow - paraffin lasts longer. SPL remains “fresh” with proper processing throughout the season.

Cleaning your skis before every race.

Remove the soil with a scraper, then with a nylon brush. Swipe 3-5 times with a brass brush from toe to heel, remove dust with fiberlen. Swipe 3-4 times with a steel brush from toe to heel. Between cleanings, wipe the joint with a clean cloth to remove dust.

Apply a weather-resistant fluoride-free primer or graphite. For aggressive snow - +1 more layer. The goal is to ensure that the paraffin is abraded in layers. Experience has shown that this is how paraffin holds best. After applying the next layer, let the ski cool, remove the paraffin with a scraper, and polish with a nylon brush until shiny. Apply the next layer, melt with an iron. Allow the ski to cool. Next - repeat.

Ski cleaning after every race.

Thoroughly clean the ski with a brass brush - 10-15 passes from toe to heel until a velvety color appears. Remove dust from the SP with a clean piece of cloth. Go from toe to heel 3-5 times with a steel brush. The goal is to clean the joint venture from dirt and solid particles.

Generously lubricate the joint with BW paraffin and melt with an iron. When hot (creamy), remove the paraffin with a scraper. Repeat the operation until the paraffin is removed clean, without dirt. Apply and melt BW again, let it cool, remove with a scraper, polish with a nylon brush, then brass (3-5 passes) and steel (2-4 passes). The goal is to remove old grease and dirt from the pores of the plastic.

Apply purple or blue primer, melt it, let the ski cool, and put it in the case. The goal is to close the joint venture from exposure to air and dust.

*** Based on materials from the magazine “ skiing».

Whatever the level of the skier - from an amateur exploring self-made ski tracks in suburban forests to a super-professional participant Olympic Games, absolutely everyone is concerned about the same question: how to improve the glide of your skis? This material is certainly not for professionals, since most often they have special teams servicemen, and not infrequently, they themselves are quite experienced people in this matter. This material is for ski lovers who have not yet thoroughly grasped the magical process of preparation and want to master it. We sincerely hope that you will find useful information here and highlight something new.

Our article for the following groups of skiers:

Those who ride infrequently, on prepared or “wild” trails. These are amateur skiers who do not (or rarely take) part in sports competitions, but want to get more speed from sliding.
Recreational skiers who train regularly to maintain and improve physical fitness, performing at amateur level competitions. This also includes young skiers from sports schools, level - up to youths.

Everyone who is “higher, faster, stronger” - welcome to the professionals, into their reliable hands, who, using special machines, will apply the necessary structure to the skis and make such a “sandwich” from layers of lubricant that it will not be a ski - a rocket!

“Express lubricant” for ski glides.

Listed first for the reason that it does not require much explanation and is very easy to use. It is done using special tubes or containers with liquid or gel-like gliding ointment, which is squeezed through a dispensing nozzle directly onto the surface of the skis. No cleaning or removing old ointment. After spreading over the surface and waiting for absorption for about 2-5 minutes, vigorously rub in using a cork or fabric attachment, which often comes with the same tube or container.

When is it used?

The weather changed sharply: a cyclone arrived, wet snow began to fall, the temperature “jumped” from 0C to +5C, and you have the only pair of skis that were coated at 0C.
For amateur ski trips, when there is no need for super-speed and the skis just need to “slide” or to avoid snow sticking in warm weather.

"Pros"

Lubrication speed – 2 minutes per ski.
There is no need to have an additional tool.
If the ski stops sliding, the “express lubricant” layer has worn off, you can always easily and quickly apply a new one, if, of course, you have the opportunity to take a small container of lubricant with you.

"Minuses"

A layer of such lubricant is enough for 5-7 km maximum, because... its layer is very thin and technologies are used that do not allow the ointment to become firmly embedded in the surface of the ski. After 5 km, your skis will “stand up” and you will need to re-grease again. For competitions - extremely bad option, it is better to take several pairs of skis, oiled taking into account weather changes, if expected, and choose right before the start the pair that is suitable for the “starting” weather conditions.
“Express ointments” have a very wide range of applications, both in temperature and snow conditions. But this means that they will work in such “wide” ranges at a very average level, and will show very average gliding characteristics - compared to highly specialized ointments.

“Express lubricant” for different types of skis:

for “skate” skis - along the entire length.
for “classics” - lubricant is applied to the toe and heel areas, the area under the shoe last is not lubricated at all, or “holding” ointment is placed there.
skis with “notches” or special inserts (mohair, artificial fibers) under the boot last. You can smear it in the same way as the “classics”, i.e. – only the area of the toes and heels of the skis.

“Classical” ski lubrication technology.

When using this technology, you cannot avoid without using special tools:

Ski fixing machine. You can use either special machines adapted for this process, or simply a convenient mount with stands so that your ski rests with its entire upper surface on something solid during processing.
“Wash” to remove dirt and old ointment from the surface of skis. Buy only branded remover, because... “folk” creativity in the form of using various solvents gives unpredictable results.
A set of paraffins - “glide” and “hold” ointments. You need to have exactly those waxes that you will apply to your skis, depending on two conditions: a) air temperature, b) snow condition (fresh snow, old snow, etc.). The conditions for its use are always written on each package of paraffin. For amateurs, a set of three types of ointments will be enough: for air temperatures above zero; for the range from –2 to –8, and for the temperature range below –8-10 degrees C.
Most popular brands - Swix, Rex, Star, Rode, ToKo, Start, Holmenkol.
Iron. Only a special iron for lubricating skis. A distinctive feature from a household iron is its ability to maintain a constant temperature, which can be precisely regulated. There are “digital” versions, where the heating of the working surface is set with an accuracy of a degree.
Brushes: with metal bristles, with nylon hard and soft bristles. If you don’t want to have such an “arsenal,” you can buy one brush with medium nylon bristles.
Experienced lubricators often use special drills with lint attachments on one side and a comfortable handle on the other. Essentially, these are the same brushes, only they can significantly speed up the ski processing process.
A scraper made of plexiglass or metal for removing paraffin. There are scrapers of different thicknesses, but there is no fundamental difference in operation.
Special scraper for removing paraffin for the groove. There are special scrapers similar in shape to a marker. As a last resort, you can get by with a ballpoint pen or the same marker.
A piece of fibertex - non-woven nylon fiber with abrasive microparticles.

Before we tell you all the “secrets” of ski preparation, let’s dwell on the issue of differences in ointments.

Division of ointments by “types”

“Glide” ointments – to ensure that the ski glides well on the snow surface. Used for “skate” and “classic” skis.
“Holding” ointments – to prevent the ski from slipping back when pushing off the snow. Used in “classic” skis.
Accelerators (powders). Expensive and difficult to use. We do not recommend using them for amateurs without training.

Division by additive content:

Without additives. Budget ointments – for amateur sports and training.
With added fluorine: CH (fluorine-free), LF (low fluoride), HF (high fluoride). The latter are expensive, the former are the cheapest. Fluoride-containing ointments are used when there is high humidity and snow. The introduction of fluorine components into the composition significantly improves the speed characteristics and operating stability of the lubricant.
With the addition of graphite. Due to their antistatic properties, lubricants containing graphite often exhibit the best side either in dirty conditions or low humidity. They can reduce the accumulation of dirt on the sliding surface of the ski and in wet snow.

Ski preparation technology

Skate skis. Only “slip” paraffin is used, which is distributed over the entire surface of the skis.

1. Attach the ski to the machine. 2. Before you start manipulating with sliding paraffin, the surface of the skis must be cleaned. This is done with special washes, never with gasoline, household solvents, etc. It is recommended to clean “old” skis after 5-6 training races (or after 3-4 if the snow is dirty). It is recommended to clean “new” (from the store) skis before applying wax for the first time. 3. After washing and drying (5 minutes), we clean off any remaining dirt, first with a metal brush and then with a nylon brush. We clean the surface from toe to heel 10-15 times and remove the remains of old paraffin. 4. Turn on the iron and, after heating it, set the required temperature - the same as indicated on the paraffin packaging. When in contact with the iron, the sliding paraffin should melt easily, but at the same time not smoke during manipulation. 5. We begin to apply slip paraffin to the ski using an iron. There are two ways: when you do not have a limit on the amount of paraffin, then you lean a block of paraffin against the iron, it melts and begins to pour onto the surface of the ski. The second method, if you don’t have enough paraffin: you press a piece of paraffin to the iron, wait until the paraffin begins to melt and transfer the leaked paraffin, pressing the block to the ski. 6. When drops of paraffin are all over the surface of the ski, take an iron and distribute the paraffin in an even molten layer. The ointment should spread evenly over the ski, including along the edges. Be careful when running the iron along the toes and heels of the skis - the plastic there is thinner and these areas can easily overheat, resulting in delamination of the skis. 7. After applying and distributing the paraffin, it needs to cool for some time to room temperature. 8. We begin to remove excess paraffin. First - using a special tool - from the groove, and then using a scraper-cycle from the edges and from the sliding surface. You need to work the cycles at an angle of 30-40 degrees away from you, from the heel to the toe of the ski. 9. After complete removal of excess paraffin, the sliding surface must be treated with brushes. A wire brush is best for this. 10-15 movements with light pressure from heel to toe are more than enough. After working with a metal brush, the sliding surface of the ski should be polished with a nylon brush - also 10-15 movements. 10. The “basic” preparation of the ski sliding surface ends here. If you want higher quality preparation, then simply repeat the entire cycle of operations several times. For amateur starts, 3 times are enough; professionals “torment” the ski up to 10 times.

Classic skis.

Points 1,2,3,4 – similar.

5. Determine the ski block. This is usually about 50-80 cm centered under the sole of the ski boot. The exact length can be determined as follows: place the ski on the floor and stand on it with all your weight. The holding surface area is the area under which the sheet of paper moves freely while the skier's body weight is evenly distributed on both skis. 6. Glue paper tape along the edges of this area, which will separate the areas of application of the sliding ointment from the holding ointment. 7. We begin to apply slip wax to the ski using an iron in the heel and toe areas. 8. We distribute the sliding paraffin with an iron in the same way as in the case of a “skate” ski. We remove excess paraffin with scrapers, clean and polish the toe and heel area with metal and nylon brushes. 9. Remove the paper tape that limits the area of action of the holding ointment. 10. Apply holding ointment and distribute it using a cork block. Rub the ointment thoroughly and iron it with an iron. This manipulation must be repeated 3-4 times, without ironing, each time reducing the area where the ointment is applied. 11. Immediately before the start, you need to check the operation of the holding zone and if there is a “recoil”, then it is necessary to correct it either by applying a holding ointment of a different, more accurate temperature, or by increasing the area of application of the original ointment.

In very warm weather, melting, granular, dirty snow, it is quite difficult to choose a lubricant. Therefore, advice: if you have “warm” skis with a high content of graphite in the base, it is better to simply clean them with wash and brushes and ski without lubrication. If whitish areas appear on the ski, this is the result of the so-called “burn” - skiing on cold, grainy snow with insufficient or absent lubrication. Microfibers of polyethylene, raised by sharp snow crystals, form these very areas. Fibers can be removed with smooth and careful movements using fibertex.

At the end of the season, skis require conservation. Apply a thick layer of any soft paraffin to the entire sliding surface and leave it like that until next winter. Paraffin will prevent the base from oxidizing.

How to choose skis for skating and not make a mistake? Choosing skis is not the easiest task, especially for beginners. Purchasing this sports equipment requires a competent, responsible and balanced approach.

How to choose skis for skating for a beginner?

The first difficulties may arise directly when determining products that fall into the running category. Often this type includes models that differ in structure from alpine skiing. At the same time, a beginner has absolutely no need for professional skating skis, at least based on their high cost.

A person who is just starting to ski, first of all needs to decide on an affordable price category. The cost of individual models of skating skis can range from $30 to $350. And even with a special wallet size, the most expensive models from reputable global manufacturers are not always the ideal solution.

Which skis are best for skating? The optimal solution for beginners may be cross-country skiing for skating. domestic production. Firstly, the average quality of such models allows you to feel the whole range of positive emotions from skiing, and secondly, their cost is so affordable that you can use such skis sparingly, in almost any conditions.

To others important issue for a beginner it is the selection of cross-country skis based on technical parameters: length, level of rigidity, structural strength. It is these characteristics that are decisive when choosing any models.

The optimal length of skis for skating can be determined according to the classic calculation formula. To do this, you need to add 25-30 cm to the skier’s height, which will be an indicator of the appropriate length.

As for the stiffness of the skis, here it is necessary to focus on the weight of the skier. Under a too heavy rider, soft models will certainly sag, causing a whole lot of inconvenience. If the skier's weight is low, equipment that is too rigid will slip with a rather unpleasant recoil. To determine the optimal level of rigidity, just stand on your skis with your full weight, after placing a thick sheet of paper under the binding area. A sufficient rigidity indicator is considered if the sheet can be moved under the sliding surface over a distance of about 30-40 cm in both directions without much difficulty.

The majority of buyers prefer to immediately purchase expensive skating skis for entry-level skiing, hoping for a comfortable feeling while riding based on the authority of a recognizable manufacturer. However, reliability and high quality expensive skis justified by the need to achieve maximum speeds on the ski track. It is unlikely that a novice amateur will immediately be able to ride at such speeds using correct technique ride. Therefore, spend money on purchasing professional model There is no point in skiing for a person without much experience.

Manufacturing materials

When carrying out such a procedure as choosing skis for skating, an important issue for most beginners remains the selection of suitable material. Many of us have not yet forgotten the good old wooden models of Soviet-made cross-country skis, for which there was practically no alternative at one time. Therefore, some sports fans find it extremely difficult to accept the need to switch to modern plastic models. The main reason here is not the ossification of perception, but rather the lack of information about the features of using such equipment.

Plastic skis for skating are not as simple as they might seem at first glance. Using such a model without proper preparation and maintenance, you can feel discomfort, convincing yourself of a bad purchase already in the first meters of the track.

In fact, plastic has improved sliding properties compared to wood. Therefore, when choosing plastic cross-country skis, you need to be prepared for the need to regularly lubricate the sliding surface of the product, selecting suitable compounds based on weather conditions and the nature of the terrain.

Plastic models of cross-country skis are much stronger than wooden ones and, accordingly, have increased level reliability. And if the owners of the former begin to cover their favorite equipment with the appearance of positive indicators on the thermometer, then the happy owners of plastic analogues usually enjoy the continuation of the season for some time.

How to choose skating skis for your riding style?

One of the determining factors when selecting skis is whether the chosen model matches your skiing style. It is recommended to consider individual features and configuration of skis based on the nature of the future use of the purchased pair.

The selection of skis for skating should be carried out based on the characteristics of the riding style itself, which is characterized by the need to perform sweeping movements in the so-called “herringbone”.

The main difference between classic skis and models for skating are the features of their lubrication. To achieve the most uniform sliding, the surface skating skis treated with primers in the form of holding ointments, lubricated with paraffin along the entire length, additionally treated with special sliding lubricants. At the same time, such processing is unacceptable for classic ski models, the sliding surface of which, on the contrary, is sanded to achieve greater grip, after which it is coated with a holding lubricant.

To select skating skis that will be used for skiing running style, you need to pay attention to the most durable products that can withstand significant loads.

In general, experts recommend purchasing several sets of skis for traditional, skating and cross-country skiing. It is this solution that will allow you to avoid difficulties and discomfort, having the opportunity to switch from one move to another.

Ski boots

The most important process, along with the direct choice of cross-country skis, is the selection of a whole range of necessary accessories: bindings, boots, poles, etc. Innovative models ski boots They are not just special shoes for easy connection with skis, but also products that can protect feet from certain loads and maintain heat balance.

In the production of modern ski boots, the anatomical features of skiers' feet and natural hygiene requirements are taken into account. Selecting high-quality, reliable boots is the key to a comfortable, successful ride. A responsible approach to the selection of boots eliminates the need to be distracted by all sorts of inconveniences in the form of pinched toes or wet feet.

Currently, there are several main categories of ski boots:

Classic models - traditionally used on ski models that are used for classic skiing.
Skating boots - the structure and functionality of this equipment corresponds to the characteristics of skating.
Combined models - can be used for riding in different styles, thanks to the presence of a convenient removable cuff.

Fastenings

When choosing skis for skating, you need to think about choosing suitable bindings. Today there are standard and profile types of fastenings.

Standard fastenings involve connection to boots using holes for which there are connectors on the sole of special boots. Such fastenings also have protrusions, due to which, in fact, the ski boots are securely fixed.

Profile systems have rubber elements of varying hardness, which ensures high repulsion efficiency when running. There are several separate fastening options for profile boots - NNN and SNS. The difference between these types of profile fastenings lies in the number of recesses. There are two of them in NNN format mounts, but only one in SNS format mounts.

Ski poles

Picking up best skis for skating, you should pay attention to the choice of the most comfortable, effective poles. The choice of poles largely depends on your riding style. Classic style The most appropriate choice for riding is the choice of poles, the length of which reaches the armpits, and for “skating” it is recommended to select poles up to the shoulder height.

The ideal solution can be considered the selection of poles with an anatomically adjusted lanyard and large paws. The presence of these characteristics makes it possible to ride for a long time, practically without feeling fatigue or discomfort in the hands.

How to prepare skis for skating?

Preparing skis for skating involves first of all creating a sliding surface structure that best matches the nature of the snow. To do this, the outer surface of the skis is treated with special substances in the form of ointments and paraffin, which are selected based on weather conditions.

First of all, a solid grip ointment is applied to the sliding surface of the skis. The procedure is carried out in the following order:

the outer plane of the skis is treated with sandpaper, which improves traction due to raising the pile;
a heated primer ointment is applied with a consistency that best suits the weather conditions;
the ointment is smoothed with an iron at medium temperature;
After hardening, subsequent layers of ointment are applied in the holding area and leveled with synthetic cork.

Applying paraffin to the surface of skis

If sufficiently soft paraffin is available, lubrication of skating skis can be done by applying it cold to the sliding surface. If skis are processed using hard paraffin, then they resort to heating the lubricant with an iron. Alternatively, lubrication of skating skis can be done by briefly heating a block of paraffin wax and then applying smooth strokes to the skis.

Apply such an amount of paraffin to the ski that the molten lubricant spreads evenly over the entire sliding surface, and the layer of the substance should be no more than 1 mm. It is leveled with the same hot iron.

Preparing skis for skating by applying lubricant in the form of paraffin heated with an iron is the most dangerous procedure. If the operation is not carried out carefully, there is a high probability of overheating, deformation and burning of high molecular weight plastic. Therefore, when applying paraffin, it is strongly recommended to set the iron temperature to the lowest possible temperature at which the existing paraffin can melt.

It is necessary to move the iron along the sliding surface of the skis smoothly and without delay. In this case, there must be a layer of paraffin between the plastic and the sole of the iron, because plastic quickly combusts if there is direct contact with the heated surface of the iron. Based on this, you should not save on paraffin consumption, as this often leads to more serious material losses in the form of damage to equipment.

Cleaning the ski surface with special brushes

In cases where the entire length of skating skis is machined on special grinding machines, the formation of a complex large or small surface microstructure becomes possible. This treatment promotes optimal removal of liquid and air when the ski comes into contact with snow, which ensures the best glide.

After removing the remnants of old paraffin using scrapers, with the arrival of the new season, quite a few small grooves remain filled with lubricant. To restore the original structure of the ski surface, paraffin residues should be removed with rotary or hand brushes. The most effective may be the use of hard metal or nylon brushes, which have fine bristles.

When cleaning paraffin from the sliding surface with brushes, it is not recommended to be too zealous when carrying out sudden movements or excessive pressure so as not to damage the plastic structure. The bristles of metal and nylon brushes most effectively remove paraffin residues when they are placed at right angles to the surface being treated.

To apply the base layer in the form of a priming ointment, it is better to use a special iron, since most irons for ironing clothes do not allow you to set the optimal temperature.
Holding the heated sole of the iron on one point on the ski surface, unfortunately, often leads to burning and deformation of the plastic.
Before applying gliding ointment when preparing skis for skiing, you should activate the surface by brushing it once again with a brush.
When preparing skis for skiing in cold weather, it is better to resort to creating a fine structure of the sliding surface, and in warm weather, use a large surface texture.
When preparing a sliding surface, the use of the trial and error method is of great importance. In other words, it's worth trying personal experience different combinations of lubricants under different weather conditions.
Before you need to store skis for a long time, you should not clean off the old paraffin, which will act as protection for the sliding surface in the off-season.
It is recommended to initially take extreme care of your skis, because only in this case can you hope for their long service life and maximum enjoyment while skiing.

The history of skiing goes back several thousand years. They were invented by ancient peoples living in the north, who needed to move quickly through the snow. Skiing appeared only at the end of the 19th century and significantly influenced the appearance of the skis themselves, the material and features of their care.

Depending on the needs and purpose, skis are divided into three large groups:

Classic: have a solid base and a small cutout at the narrowest point;
Skiboards: these are short (75-110 cm) skis for downhill skiing. They differ from the classics in smaller sizes and wider cutouts at the waist; they also lack fall protection due to the lightweight fastening. They are divided into free descent and stunt models;
Carving: used for descents from mountains in an arc. They have a large side cutout, classic fastening and low rigidity.

There is also a more modern classification of alpine skiing:

Allmountain: non-specialized (universal) cross-country skiing for any descent, weather and terrain. It’s difficult to set a record on them, but “reconnaissance” of a new area will be possible without any problems;
Freeride: their length is 185-195 cm, waist width is more than 9 cm. Suitable for walking on virgin lands and unprepared trails;
Bigmountain: one of the options for freeride skis. Used when riding on loose snow and uncompacted, unprepared roads, for aggressive descent on “wild” mountains;
Powder: Another freeride ski option designed for deep snow skiing only;
Carving: characterized by short length and deep cutout. Used when driving on specially prepared trails. Riding them is characterized by slow movements and smooth turns. Depending on the terrain, there are sportscarves (for normal driving), freecarves (for terrain) and supercarves (for riding without poles);
Racing: used in professional downhill, slalom and giant slalom competitions;
Cross models: used for group cross-country on mountain racing tracks;
Freestyle: This is a ski for performing acrobatic tricks. Features specially curved heels to soften landings;
Moguls: for walking on moguls (hillocks);
Children and teenagers: they differ in their special shape.

Popular manufacturing companies:

Budget: “Atemi”, “Larsen”, “Tisa”, “Dynamic”;
Premium class: “Fischer”, “Madshus”, “Rossignol”, “Atomis”.

Nuances of professional ski training

No matter how professional and expensive the skis are, without special training are not very suitable for use, and the pleasure of riding is reduced to zero and even dangerous. It does not matter whether they are intended for professional competitions or amateur run - preparation is necessary in any case. All skiers should know how to prepare their skis correctly and what products to choose.

Ski preparation takes place in several steps:

Cleaning the sliding surface with a stiff brush. This allows you to clean off old grease and remove irregularities;
Application of paraffin. This increases the stability of the ointment. Paraffin is applied hot: after cooling, the excess is removed;
Application additional funds: paraffin or special lubricants. The latter can be water-repellent, accelerating or provide additional grip. The choice of ointment depends on the specific situation and type of sport.

Surface cleaning

This First stage ski processing. This will help remove old layers of ointment, level the surface and open the pores, and help the ointments penetrate deeper into the skis.

To clean at home, you will need a brass or steel brush, which must be passed several times along the bottom (sliding) surface of the ski, and then cleaned off all excess paraffin with a nylon brush. It is necessary to brush from heel to toe about 50 times. Old paraffin must be heated with an iron to melt the paraffin, then scrape off completely.

Surface preparation

No special preparation of the sliding surface is required. After brushing off the old grease, it is ready for applying paraffin or ointment.

It is important to note several nuances of preparation:

Cleaning the groove: it is cleaned after the old paraffin has warmed up, but before it is completely removed using a scraper or scraper. This must be done in exactly this order so that if the scraper accidentally slips out, the surface is protected;
Check the edges (side surfaces) before riding. They should not have scratches, nicks or chips. If the edges are blunt, they need to be sharpened: turning with blunt edges is difficult and dangerous, especially when skating;
Applying the structure. Ski sliding occurs due to the melting of snow near the surface, causing the ski to glide on a thin layer of moisture. However, if the layer is too thin or, conversely, thick, the skier may have problems. To prevent this from happening, a structure is applied to the sliding surface - this is a system of grooves, similar to the “pattern” on tires. Thereby excess water goes away, helping to slow down.

The structure is applied by the manufacturer, but if the owner of the equipment is not satisfied with it, he can change the pattern. This can be done manually using hand knurling or by machine. The latter is called Steinslift.

Ski wax information

When choosing a ski lubricant, you should consider the following nuances:

Air temperature: the recommended one is usually indicated on the packaging. Snow temperature may also be indicated, but is more difficult to determine;
Humidity: You don't need to measure it exactly. Usually, average values are enough: in a dry climate, humidity does not exceed 50%, in a climate of average humidity it is 50-80%, in a humid climate it can reach 100%;
The graininess or appearance of snow. Sharp snowflakes require a thick ointment that will protect the skis. At low temperatures, it is best to choose an ointment with synthetic additives, at elevated temperatures (above zero) - water-repellent.

All lubricants are divided into two large groups:

Paraffin: This is a gliding lubricant similar to wax. Suitable for wooden and plastic skis. It is necessary to prevent snow from sticking to the surface. They can also be used as a base for applying other lubricants;
Ointments: these are grip lubricants; they grip the skis to the track when pushing. Usually they are applied to the ends of the skis to help them push off, but some skiers apply it entirely to the entire sliding surface. The choice of ointment depends on the temperature, and a “warmer” one is applied under the block. For example, if it is 10 degrees outside, then ointments with a temperature of 5-12 degrees are applied to the ends, and 5-8 degrees under the block.

Lubricants are also divided into:

By composition: mineral, synthetic, combined. Additionally, they may contain fluorine, graphite or resin;
According to their consistency, lubricants can be solid and semi-solid, liquid, emulsions, powders, sprays, pastes. Professional products are usually produced in the last three states. You should read the instructions in advance about how to apply powder to skis, but in general the procedure is no different from initialing: the powder is applied to the surface and heated with an iron.

Features of application to skis

Applying paraffin is considered one of the most dangerous procedures, as you will have to use a heated iron. You need to paraffin after cleaning the top layer.

The ski is carefully secured to a machine or other flat surface so that it does not fall;
Paraffin is applied to the lower surface. If it is hard, you will have to melt it slightly. For example, you can heat a piece of paraffin and run it over your ski. The layer thickness should be 0.5-1 mm;
Afterwards, a heated iron is passed over the paraffin. The iron should not be too hot so that the paraffin does not evaporate at all; it is better to choose the minimum temperature that is enough to warm up. Usually it is 60 degrees. You need to do it quickly, without stopping, once, without force. There should always be a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski: if you stop, the paraffin will quickly evaporate and the iron will damage the surface;
When the layer hardens (this takes 15-20 minutes), polishing is carried out - the excess is removed with a scraper. It is important not to change the level of inclination, otherwise pits will form on the surface;
If necessary, apply another 1-2 layers. Instead of paraffin, you can apply other ointments: accelerators, fluorocarbon powders;
Finally, the surface is polished. You can polish it with fiberlene (a special non-woven material), but you can also use a piece of felt or even wool or nylon socks.

A few tips will help you understand how to prepare your skis at home in the most optimal way:

Inexpensive quick-release lubricants can be used instead of paraffin. They are applied without ironing or polishing and “dry” in a few minutes. But they are enough for 5-7 km, after which the ointment will have to be applied again. This option is suitable for people who rarely ride - for ski marathon it won't fit;
It is equally important to check the fastenings in advance and, if necessary, carry out repairs. They must be clean, free from rust, cracks and other mechanical damage, and have good fastening;
When choosing a lubricant, it is important to consider the end goal. For example, you should use an accelerator only when participating in races - in other cases it can only do harm;
On new skis or after machine sanding, factory fluff often remains. You can remove it with fibertex, but this is not necessary: usually the pile disappears on its own after a few months of riding;
To avoid having to tinker with your equipment, you need to ensure that it is stored properly.

To ensure your skis last longer and your sports activities are safe, you need to properly care for your equipment and lubricate it regularly. Preparation should be regular, it is best to do it before each ride, and before the season it is worth checking the equipment completely. Preparation is not only important professional athletes, but also for amateurs and owners of hunting skis.