Do-it-yourself air from a pump. DIY air rifle toy. PCP with a "strong one and a half"

Can air produce a significant effect?

For example, we need to blow off a stack of books with air from our lungs ( By the way, a great item for betting with friends).

No matter how hard you try, this task is impossible for humans (supermen and other superheroes do not count). No matter how much we blow, the books will remain in place. But what if we cheat a little and put a regular inflatable ball under a stack of books and blow air into it. You will notice that without the slightest effort our books will rise above the table. And we used the same air from our lungs ( you can proudly emerge from the dispute as a winner).

The difference is that in the second case we locked our air in a limited space and did not allow it to spread in all directions. And when the air has nowhere to go, it begins to work like a spring.

This compressed state of air and gas is studied by pneumatics. Pneumatics(from Greek breathing, blowing) - branch of physics, dedicated to mechanisms and devices that use gas pressure differences for their operation.

In other words, any pneumatic device uses compressed gas in its operation.

Pneumatic mechanisms are found all around us. These are the brakes in buses, trolleybuses and trucks, these are the doors in the same buses (have you heard how the compressed air hisses when opening?!), these are the jackhammers that are used to make holes in the asphalt...

...and of course air guns.

Popular fun Paintball(Paintball), where people run around with guns and shoot paint balls at each other, I’m sure everyone knows. I recommend it to anyone who hasn't played it!

So in this article we will tell and show you how to make a real pneumatic gun with your own hands - a compressed air gun.

What is such a gun capable of?! Let's look:

Materials:

plastic bottle 1.5 l.;

bicycle nipple;

plumbing adapter with faucet (from ¾ inch to ½ inch), coupling (¾ inch), piece of metal-plastic pipe 70 cm (diameter ½ inch), sealing tape.

The last picture shows alternative parts (we didn't have them at first) that also work great for our application (½ to ¾ tap adapter and ¾ female coupling).

Equipment:

superglue, nail or wide-headed screw, scissors, torch, knife, pliers, gas wrench, file.

Step 1.

Cut the thread from the bottle using a knife. We file off the remains with a file or sandpaper.

Step 2.

Using a wide-headed screw heated over the fire of an alcohol lamp (or gas stove), we melt a hole in the bottom of the bottle.

Step 3.

We cut off the nipple from the old bicycle inner tube and insert it into the hole in the bottom of the bottle from the inside. For this:

1. We pass the thread through the holes of the bottle.
2. At the end of the thread we tie our nipple, and pull the other end.
3. In this way you can easily thread the nipple from inside the bottle.

Step 4.

Glue the nipple to the bottle with superglue. The main thing is to ensure 100% tightness of the gluing, otherwise we will not be able to inflate the bottle to sufficient pressure.

To improve gluing, you can first clean the hole in the bottom with a file from the outside and inside, get rid of burrs, glue a rubber washer cut from the same old bicycle inner tube (both inside and outside); you can use sealant or hot melt adhesive; But you can combine it all.

Remember about the tightness and rigidity of the structure so that when connecting the pump our nipple does not come off.

Step 5.

Screw a ¾-inch coupling onto the neck of the bottle. Because The neck of the bottle is plastic, it can be screwed on quite well without preliminary threading. Screw the coupling all the way into the outer rim of the neck. If necessary, use a gas wrench.

Step 6.

We screw our tap into the second end of the coupling. We first seal the tap threads using plumbing sealing tape. (You can compact it in any other way convenient for you).

Let me remind you once again that the tightness of the structure is very important to us.

Step 7

We screw a piece of metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of ½ inch onto the tap thread. The thread may not need to be pre-cut, because... The plastic inside the pipe can easily be screwed tightly onto the tap thread itself.

We took a piece of pipe 70 cm in length.

Step 8

Our air gun is ready! We enjoy the fruits of our labor and prepare for the challenges.

See detailed video assembly instructions below:

To test an air gun we will need:

1) pump (preferably with a pressure gauge to control the pressure in the bottle),

2) projectiles (paintballs, fruits, vegetables, water, paper balls... whatever).

Instructions for use:

1. Close the tap.
2. Pump air into the bottle to 3-4 atmospheres. Be careful not to over pump the bottle. (At a pressure of 6 atmospheres, my bottle exploded.)
3. We load the gun with our projectile through the barrel.
4. We aim and shoot by sharply opening the tap.

Attention! All operations with compressed air should be performed under adult supervision!

Do not point at people or animals!

Pneumatics can become a dangerous weapon in the hands of people without a sense of proportion and responsibility for their actions.

Good luck!

Pneumatics are a very convenient thing for shooting while fishing or hunting. The power of pressurized air should not be underestimated; with this energy in mind, weapons can be made for specific needs. The most realistic homemade weapon is a pump-action weapon. A separate chamber and a pump are installed here, pumping the required pressure into it. The power will depend on the volume of the tank and the volume of air pumped in, and accordingly, you can make air from bicycle pump with your own hands such power as required.

Pneumatic weapons are similar in shape and operating characteristics to combat weapons, but here it is not gunpowder that is used as the energy of the shot, but moving air. The sound of a shot from a pneumatic gun is almost inaudible, that is, the most suitable option for using an air gun is hunting birds and small animals, when the shot of a simple gun scares them.

Pneumatics differ in various characteristics. Different types weapons include the following indicators: the method of ejection of the cartridge, the dimensions and weight of the gun, its shot force, the scope of use.

According to the method of ammunition release mechanism, an air gun can be:

1. Gas spring system. The operating principle is based on the use of a gas spring.
2. Spring-piston design. In pneumatics with this method of operation, the bullet receives its initial flight speed under the influence of air squeezed out of the cylinder by the movement of the piston. There is a spring in the storage tank, which pushes the piston out when the hammer is cocked.
3. Gas cylinder system. The role of the source of the force of the shot is played by gas cylinders with carbon dioxide. This principle of operation of the mechanism, as a rule, is used not in rifles, but in pistols.
4. Electropneumatics. In these guns, air is pumped by an electric motor that is powered by a battery.

There is another classification of pneumatic guns - an indicator of the energy of the bullet's flight.

Taking this criterion into account, guns are divided into:

1. The minimum power is no more than 3 J. This pneumatic is lightweight and has a simple design. Used for shooting at short distances. For example, in a shooting gallery.
2. Soft air guns with a power of approximately 3-3.5 J. Mainly used for teaching shooting skills.
3. Paintball gun. Pneumatics with a power of 3.5-7 J. Paint balls are used as ammunition. In appearance they resemble military weapons.
4. Magnum class air rifles. The power is about 7.5-25 J. It is used for sports and training purposes and for hunting small animals.
5. Powerful pneumatics with power ratings of over 25 J are used for hunting and military operations. In terms of muzzle energy, it can be compared to combat rifles.

Many of the guns have a power that is no more than 7 J, since purchasing this rifle does not require a license or special storage conditions. Powerful pneumatics can be purchased to order and only after obtaining the appropriate permission.

When choosing a pneumatic gun, you must first determine what the gun will be used for. If you need a rifle for recreational shooting, then you can choose an inexpensive, simple model that has a minimum of power. If you are purchasing pneumatics for hunting purposes, you need to choose a Magnum class shotgun.

When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics of the gun, such as:

1. Accuracy, which will depend not only on how well the polishing was done inside the barrel, but also on the installation of the sighting device. Budget products have a conventional sight in the form of a comb at the end of the barrel. Optics for pneumatics can be purchased additionally. Modern expensive guns come with an optical sight included.
2. Power is one of the main indicators. The more powerful the gun, the better the lethal energy of the ejected cartridge and the more accurate the shot. For hunting purposes and sports training shooting, only very powerful guns can be used.
3. Price. If you want to buy something of high quality that is used for various purposes, in particular for hunting, you need to count on a decent price for the weapon.
4. Pneumatic material. The reliability and duration of operation of the weapon will depend on this characteristic. Most air weapons are made from wood and weapon steel, but today you can see models made from plastic composite and its types. They cost a little, but are not that reliable and are relatively risky to use.
5. Manufacturing mechanism. Both the weight of the gun and the initial speed, as well as the trajectory of the cartridge when fired, and the accuracy of fire will depend on this characteristic. The cost of the shot depends on the option for obtaining power. For example, for gas-cylinder pneumatics you need to purchase CO2 cylinders. Which, considering the price of one can, is quite significant.

When purchasing a pneumatic gun for small game hunting purposes, only a powerful gun is suitable. For the hunt to be successful, the air bag must be made with high quality. How to choose an air gun for hunting is a separate question.

The most popular guns were from the Hatsan company. Due to the huge selection, this manufacturer is a leader in the weapons market. Expensive models have installed optics.

How much pneumatics will cost depends on the technical indicators and the manufacturer. The most expensive are European brands. The cheapest MP512M shotgun is a Russian-made weapon.

The assembly technology is not complicated, which made the whole process simple and inexpensive. As a rule, the valve is considered the most complex mechanism during the assembly of this type of gun; it must open instantly when the trigger is pressed. However, there are no problems with this; the trigger mechanism is not complicated and works great.

Materials and tools

List of required tools:

• screwdriver;
• epoxy;
• small hammer;
• welding;
• pliers.

List of required materials:

• a piece of rubber hose;
• a piece of PVC pipe and 2 plugs (required for the cylinder);
• metal wire;
• timber (base of weapon);
• sheet metal (necessary for making brackets);
• self-tapping screws;
• 2 metal clamps;
• metal tube for installing the barrel;
• 2 copper pipes (for connecting hoses to the cylinder);
• bicycle pump directly;
• a piece of elastic from the camera.

Instructions

Stage one - the theory of the compression chamber.

All elements of this homemade weapons were made in advance, it only shows how the pneumatics are assembled. The cylinder is presented in the form of a piece of PVC tube where the plugs are located. The latter must be secured firmly and sometimes there is not enough glue; it is best to fasten them with self-tapping screws. In this case, the most important thing is that the cylinder is sealed and can withstand high pressure.

There is one fitting at both ends of the tank. As the latter, you can use pieces of tubes; remember that they must have a fairly large cross-section in order to quickly release the compressed air. We drill holes for the pipes and install them with epoxy.

Then a piece of soft tube is placed on one of the fittings; it looks black in the photo. You need to wrap insulation around the second fitting, and the pump is connected to it. If it does not have a check valve, then it must be included in the structure. Fum tape can be used as insulation.

As for the volume of the cylinder, in this case an individual approach is required. By and large, one shot is fired, so it is useless to make it very large. In pneumatics, the cylinder is small, but it is already powerful. It is not the volume, but the pressure of compressed air that is required.

Stage two - attaching the cylinder to the baseaniye.

A timber was used as a base for the pneumatics, which was given the required profile. In this case, you need to work with a knife, make a series of holes and the like, in general, there is nothing complicated.

We supply a black hose and attach soft sheet metal to the cylinder. Next, you need to make brackets from it for fastening, taking into account the shape of the camera, and then secure it to the base using self-tapping screws. It is best to place an elastic band under the clamps; a bicycle inner tube is suitable for this role.

Stage three - installation of a bicycle pump.

The entire structure is powered by a pump. First, it connects to the camera. What is used for is a small piece of rubber hose and several metal clamps. You need to carefully tighten the latter so as not to bleed air.

Next, attach the pump to the pneumatics. It must be secured firmly, since it may come off during air pumping. In this case, everything is secured with one clamp, but this is not very reliable. You need to put a rubber band between the clamp and the pump, otherwise it will slide.

Stage four - securing the triggermechanism.

In this case, you will need a soft black hose running to the barrel from the cylinder. To prevent air supply, you just need to block access to it in the hose.

To clamp the hose, a special design is used, made of metal wire, which is welded or soldered. It is attached to the trigger. When pressed, the hose opens and air from the cylinder enters the barrel. Everything is fixed with 2 self-tapping screws and 1 steel pin, driven into the beam and holding the hook.

Stage five –barrel mount.

A metal pipe was chosen as the trunk. A black hose coming from the cylinder is connected to it. Everything is secured with a steel clamp, otherwise the hose will be torn off by the pressure. The barrel itself also needs to be firmly secured with homemade metal clamps and rubber bands from a bicycle inner tube.

The gun is assembled. Finally, you need to take care that the wooden beam does not absorb moisture. It is best to treat with linseed oil.

Stage six - testing.

First you need to shut off the black hose with the trigger. Then air is pumped into the cylinder. What volume to pump is determined experimentally. It is important not to over-pump, as very high pressure will rupture the cylinder. The pressure must be created so that the cartridge has time to develop maximum speed.

Shoot the rifle and write down how many times you need to pump air.

We comply with safety measures

There are several rules for the safe operation of pneumatics:

1. If the weapon is not in use, it must be unloaded and decocked. It is necessary to load the rifle only at the shooting range, and after you are ready to shoot. It should be discharged only after finishing - before it is packed in a case.
2. Treat every rifle as if it were loaded. Hold the barrel so that it is pointed in a safe position.
3. Safe storage of pneumatics is also important, as is its operation. The rifle should be stored in a gun safe, unloaded, and locked. It is necessary to limit the access of small children. Don't forget in childhood any gun is of great interest. The owner of the weapon will have to answer for the consequences.
4. Certain models of pneumatics, after charging the spring, can only be discharged with a shot. Moreover, it must be remembered that you cannot fire a blank shot from a spring-piston gun - this will lead to rapid failure of the weapon. And accordingly, in order to discharge it, you need to shoot the bullet in a safe direction. But empty shots do not harm PSP and CO2 weapons. Read the operating instructions.
5. There is no need to touch the trigger if you are not confident in the shot. You need to train yourself to keep your finger further from the hook (on the bow or behind it). There is no need to attempt to pull the trigger if the rifle is locked with the safety catch.
6. Do not rely on the fuse or other safety measures. You need to approach every rifle with the feeling that it will fire at any time, even without pulling the trigger. Both the fuse and the trigger are only mechanical devices. Like everything, they can break. At the same time, the human factor (disassembly was performed incorrectly, incorrect adjustment) is much more likely to cause involuntary shots.
7. Choose only suitable cartridges. Any gun needs to use bullets of the exact specified type and caliber. The use of others will result in damage to the gun or accidents resulting from uncontrolled shooting.
8. You need to be clearly sure of the target and what is behind you. The cartridge does not stop in the air. There is no need to shoot until you are sure where the cartridge will end its flight and what obstacles it may encounter along the way.
9. Use personal protective equipment for your eyes and ears. While this generally applies to military weapons, certain models of air rifles can be quite loud in indoor shooting ranges.
10. If the air gun does not fire when you press the trigger, you must be extremely careful. The risk of an unexpected discharge with a broken gun is much greater than usual. You need to point the barrel in a safe area and handle the pneumatic with the utmost care. If the gun didn't work once, there is great chance that this will happen again.
11. You should not modify your gun without the necessary training, but you should maintain it regularly. Modifications will require training and skill. This also applies to pneumatics. Serious improvements should be left to professionals.
12. Before shooting, you must make sure that the barrel channel is clean. The presence of third party items will cause the weapon to malfunction.
13. You must shoot only when sober! Just like driving a car, pneumatics are a highly dangerous subject.
14. Each weapon is subject to wear and tear, requiring periodic cleaning and care, and timely replacement of broken elements. The main part of the care tips that are suitable for a specific weapon model is found in the instruction manual.

It is necessary to explain the above rules to all people who may have access to pneumatics, including relatives and small children. Do not store filled pressurized cans for PSP rifles at home or in the car. Regularly repressurize containers with increased pressure. Use common sense and always imagine the consequences of further actions.

Hi all. Probably every child, teenager or adult dreamed of acquiring firearms, pneumatic weapons, traumatic weapons, etc. Unfortunately, firearms are prohibited; traumatic weapons require permission. The only option is pneumatics, but the prices for pneumatics are high. Although the principle of its operation is very simple. Today I will show you how to make a simple air rifle. Well, it cannot be called a full-fledged pneumatic weapon, it is an experimental model to show how a pneumatic weapon works. I made this homemade product from unnecessary trash that I found in the barn. I do not bear any responsibility, only you are responsible for all your actions. Even though it’s a fart (let’s call it that), you still need to be careful. Well, let's get started.

To make this homemade product we will need

Step 1. Attach the bottle to the adapter

Step 2.Barrel

Step 3. Test

When buying an air rifle, many people prefer spring-piston models due to their low cost and the absence of the need to buy a pump or high-pressure cylinder. But not all shooting enthusiasts know that making a PCP air rifle with your own hands is not such an impossible task. Few owners of fractures like shooting so much that they are willing to pay 15-20 thousand for the purchase of a PCP rifle and another five thousand for a pump (the cylinder costs closer to ten thousand). But many would like to have a PCP rifle at a similar price and are willing to buy a pump. Of course, owning a PCP must start with a high-pressure air source, either a pump or a cylinder with a charging station (which can be refilled from divers or firefighter friends).

So what to do if you want a rifle, but don’t have much money? There is an exit. Pneumatic rifle with your own hands is a real opportunity to have an inexpensive air balloon. Quite a lot of different kits are sold on the air gun market (from the English kit - assembly kit, designer). The price of a kit equipped to convert a spring (multi-compression) model into a PCP version is in the range of 6-8 thousand rubles. As a rule, from the technical side of the issue, no difficulties arise. All you need is a file, pliers and a hammer.

Step 1 - search for a donor in stores, flea markets and attics

IZH-60.61 (MR-60.61) rifles are suitable for conversion to PCP. The difference between the IZ and the MR is in the receiver, the IZ is metal, the MR is plastic. It depends on the year of manufacture. The list of rifles also includes: MP-553, MP-553K, Crosman Benjamine Discovery. The pistols being converted have a much wider selection, but they are all Crosman. Models: 1377,1322, 2240, 2300, American Classic Pistole. It doesn’t matter what condition the donor is in, the main condition is a complete receiver and trigger (for pistols there’s also a handle). Suitable model can be purchased both in stores and from individuals in used condition. You can also exchange your existing rifle for the desired donor. Before remaking the air vent, study the theory; on the Internet, many professionals give advice on specialized sites.

Step 2 – Prepare the necessary tools

Assembling the PCP rifle does not require any special tools. However, not everyone has a hacksaw or a set of needle files. Scroll the necessary tool looks like that:

• a set of needle files of different grain sizes;
• thin-nose pliers, pliers;
• hammer;
• metal file (jigsaw);
• drills of various diameters.

Step 3 – Purchasing the kit

It is better to buy a kit from a trusted seller; kit authors have their own threads on forums selling kits (the most popular are Kruger or Kuente). You need to carefully choose the seller; you should not chase the cheapest. The topic for sale should have a lot of pages (it should have been created a long time ago), and both moderators and long-registered users should be noted in the comments in the topic. As a rule, sellers indicate payment details in the topic header. If someone asks you in a personal message to pay using other details, they are scammers.

Step 4 - Disassembling the Rifle

Let's look at the assembly of a PCP rifle using the MP-60 (Kruger's Sniper kit) as an example. The most common rifle model. First you need to disassemble the rifle. All you need is a receiver with a compressor pipe, a barrel and a trigger mechanism.

It is necessary to unscrew the buttplate screw and four screws on both sides of the rifle.

Then you need to remove the retaining ring at the end of the compressor pipe.

Pull out the pin securing the cocking lever and the back of the compressor pipe

and, turning counterclockwise, pull out the cocking lever, aligning it with the cutout in the pipe

And first pull out the back (carefully pulling it out counterclockwise), then the spring and all the other giblets.

Step 5 – preparing the donor for kit installation

After disassembly, it is necessary to clean everything from old grease and be sure to use a file to go through all the sharp edges of the compressor pipe (inside and outside). This is necessary for the normal operation of the strike group. It is also better to remove the sear and use a file to process the part that holds the firing pin in the cocked position. It would be a good idea to polish the inside of the pipe.

Step 6 - PCP Assembly

The kit comes in this form:

1. high pressure tank
2. protective cover (protects pressure gauge and filling port)
3. hammer spring tension adjustment device
4. drummer
5. The disk is no longer included due to the many assembly videos on the Internet
6. barrel rail for installing optics (fits onto the barrel)
7. connecting figure eight for tank and barrel
8. integrated sound moderator
9. additional sound moderator (additional option)
10. filling connection
11. Quick filling fitting (additional option)
12. set of sealing rubber products (as spare parts)
13. spare safety valve

First, we install the reservoir, it must be lubricated (in the place where the rubber bands are) with silicone grease, carefully twisting it, insert it into the compressor pipe and fix it with two screws (without tightening it all the way). In this case, you need to align the holes for the bolts and the bypass. You need to insert the tank extremely carefully so as not to cut off the rubber seals.

Then the barrel strip and the connecting eight are installed. If the figure eight enters with force, then it is necessary to unscrew the tightening screw and tighten it on the other side, thereby loosening the figure eight. The figure eight should not be fixed after installation, because the stock is attached to it and the holes will need to be aligned.

Next, install the striker and the rear plug with a spring, kit numbers 4 and 3, respectively. When installing the striker, you must first lift the trigger, and then push the striker all the way. To prevent an accidental shot, since the firing pin has a handle (by which it is cocked), you first need to unscrew it, insert the firing pin into the pipe and screw the handle back.

Then the spring and rear adjustment plug are inserted. The rear plug is secured with a screw that rests on the cut in the compressor pipe.

Next, we put on the sound moderator. There is a screw on the connecting eight that rests on the sound moderator, thereby fixing it on the barrel. This screw should not be tightened with with great effort so as not to spoil the coating.

Step 7 – adjusting the stock

The most difficult thing in converting the MP-60 (IZH-60) into the PCP version is adjusting the stock. You need to be patient; technologically there is nothing complicated about this. If you have a Dremel and similar drilling machines, then everything will take about an hour. If you only have a metal file and files, then one evening. The main thing is not to rush.

First, we make a cut in the back of the stock (closer to the trigger), using a grinder, jigsaw, Dremel or hacksaw. If you make cuts with a metal file, you first need to drill several holes in order to insert the file. Then in horizontal plane cut out all the stiffeners to the back wall (where the cut was made). On the lower workpiece in the photo, the stiffening ribs are cut off.

We make cuts in the vertical part and break out the cut plastic with pliers. We file the remainder along the edges with a file.

Next, we begin to expand the bed, removing excess. It is necessary to constantly try plastic against metal. It is also necessary to cut down the front part of the stock. Also saw off experimentally, trying it on the iron. It is necessary to achieve such a position of the reservoir pipe so that it enters the stock approximately along the red line.

You need to use a set of files or needle files of different grits. Where to remove more - higher grain size, where to polish - with a needle file. When adjusting the front part of the stock, you need to achieve approximately the same position as in the photo. Next, you should start adjusting the rear part, closer to the trigger. And ensure that the holes for attaching the stock to the receiver match.

In the rear part of the stock, it is also necessary to remove excess plastic with a file in order for the fastenings to match. In the photo the plastic in the back has been removed

After adjustment on both sides, the connecting eight (connects the tank and the barrel) will rest with its beard against the stock. It is necessary to use a chisel or a drill (without going in, flat as a milling cutter), or a milling cutter to make a cut for a figure eight, in the place where the standard hole for attaching the stock is located. In the end it should look something like the photo.

It is best to cut the front part of the stock using a wood crown, with a diameter that matches the diameter of the tank. Or attach a template and make a neat rounding by hand, with a metal file or jigsaw.

The safety margin of the plastic of these rifles is very large; this kind of trimming of the “excess” will not weaken the stock. It will perform its function. After adjusting the stock and matching all the mounting holes, we install the butt. PCP assembly is complete.

Making a PCP rifle with your own hands is not difficult at all. If you have problems with accuracy, you can simply cut the plastic so that the mounting holes meet; this will not affect the accuracy of the rifle. An example of assembly in the photo.

Converting Crosman pistols to PCP is much easier. There is no need to adjust the butt. Just disassemble the gun and reassemble it with a set of spare parts from the kit. Moreover, you can easily make a rifle out of a pistol, you just need to buy a long barrel and a butt. In addition, on the air gun market there is a large selection of receivers for building a PCP rifle; it is not necessary to buy a whole rifle. The price of the cheapest PCP rifle starts at approximately 16,000 rubles. The price of the conversion kit is about eight thousand. You can use the difference to buy a high-pressure cylinder or pump. At the same time, there may still be enough for a new stock (so as not to have to worry about fitting). There are many stock options (carbine, bullpup and others) for the PCP version of the MP-60. The price is very different, one of the options in the photo, the price is about 1500 rubles (for a stock for MP-60).

After assembly, the kit has optimal settings; when ordering, you can discuss individual settings. Bullet speed, at initial stage(without making changes to the shock group), changes by increasing or decreasing the spring preload force (the adjusting screw is located in the rear plug).

The alteration process itself takes a little time, and those who like to tinker with metal are a pleasure. After all, in essence, you create weapons yourself. It's like going from compound bows to arquebuses.

Step 8 - Setup Phase

After assembling the pneumatic, despite the fact that it has initial settings (depending on the caliber), more precise (optimal for air flow) settings will not be superfluous. This is where registration on the forums from step 2 comes in handy. To measure the speed of a bullet, you will need a chronograph; without this device it will be difficult to adjust the rifle; you can borrow it from fellow pneumatic guns; in every region, without exception, there are fans of air guns. Without velocity measurements, you can only select bullets for your rifle. To do this, it is best to buy small packages of different bullets, not only from different manufacturers, but also of different weights and sizes. And shoot them, it is better to shoot them in series of 5-7 shots. Each type will have its own accuracy, and bullets are selected based on this parameter. JSB bullets are considered one of the best for accurate shooting, it’s better to start with them right away. It’s not worth buying cheap bullets - it’s a waste of money, their weight and geometry differ for almost every bullet. Also, if you record the pressure in the tank after each shot, you can identify a plateau in air consumption. A PCP rifle has this property: at a certain pressure value, you can fire a series of shots with minimal air consumption, this is the so-called “plateau”. The airgan community is quite friendly, so you can ask for help fine-tuning in your area. But even without a chronograph and gear adjustment, you can build an accurate and powerful PCP rifle for little money.

Hello, man.
This summer vacation lasted two months, and all this time I was engaged in pneumatics.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  SELECTED TYPE OF PNEUMATICS

Firstly, it’s worth talking about the direction of my developments.
rate of fire, accuracy, reliability - I decided not to touch all these characteristics, but directed all my engineering power to achieve the greatest power.
There are different types of pneumatics. I won’t be lazy and tell you in more detail.
everyone knows air-fractures or, as they are scientifically called, spring-piston pneumatics (SPP). when fired, the piston begins to move along the cylinder, building up pressure in it, which in turn begins to push the bullet out of the barrel. this type of pneumatic is very common due to the simplicity of its design. Most air blowers of this type are low-power, but there are very strong representatives of spring-piston pneumatics (Hatsan 125).
the next type is PCP pneumatics (pi-si-pi). it has a built-in balloon into which a lot of air is pumped. Usually in factory "pisipishki" the pressure in the cylinder is about 300 atmospheres. a full cylinder is usually enough for many dozens of shots. One day I found a homemade PCP pneumatic on the Internet, made not by schoolchildren, but by grown-up guys whose hands grow from where they need to be. in that air, the balloon was again pumped up to 300 atm. and it was enough for 400 shots (!!!). this type of pneumatic is characterized by a high rate of fire, and if you turn to Wikipedia, it will be mentioned that some air guns of this type have an initial bullet speed of up to 450 m/s (this is a lot for pneumatics). but unfortunately I haven’t found a single PCP pneumatic on the Internet that has the same figure exceeding 350 m/s...
The next type of pneumatics is gas cylinders. most often presented in the form air pistols. The operating principle of such pneumatics is very similar to PCP, but instead of conventional compressed air, carbon dioxide contained in the can is used. Usually one can is enough for 50 shots, after which it is replaced with a new one. Such pneumatics are not particularly distinguished by power... or anything else... (a toy, in my opinion).
and the last type of pneumatics that I will talk about is compression pneumatics. Such air guns have a built-in pump, which pumps once, after which the shot is fired. To shoot again, you need to pump the pump again. There is also multi-compression pneumatics (MC). here you can already make several pumping strokes. but after each shot, you need to download again. power depends on the number of strokes. You can swing it once and shoot down the jar, or you can swing it 10 times and punch a hole in the duck lengthwise:0
This type of pneumatic gun has a very low rate of fire, but it has enormous power potential. That’s why I started making MK-pneumatics. Let's move on to the review of the first model.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 1.0 CYLINDER SIZE

Initially, I didn’t really understand that not much air was needed for one shot. main pressure. and the larger the volume of the balloon, the more air and the longer it needs to be pumped to achieve the desired pressure. In this regard, my first model, Turkey 1.0, was made from a can from a potato pest sprayer. she was bulky. it was impossible to hold it in your hands. although, in appearance, it looks rather powerful (well, it seems so to me), but in fact, in order for this nonsense to spit out something from itself at least a meter, it was necessary to make 100+ pumps with the pump: 0 it took more than 2 minutes to charge. Moreover, this gun was not mobile.
The photo shows an air gun without a barrel. the wooden handle with a pin is the release valve. you hit the handle down and a bird flies out of the barrel.
this 1.0 model was far from my ideal.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.0

After unsuccessful tests, I decided to radically change everything. the Turkey 2.0 model was much more mobile, although you had to carry a pump attached to a hose. here I decided to sharply reduce the volume of the balloon. in this model it was approximately 180 ml and was made of aluminum pipe. The photo shows that a car nipple is sticking out of the balloon. After testing, it was found that it was simply impossible to properly inflate the balloon through the nipple, so I had to tear off the nipple and connect the pump directly. that is, the air was inseparable from the pump, which significantly reduced its mobility.
power... yes, the power was great. pierced 2 - 2.5 cm of wood with a nail, and an iron lid with a drill. but I would like more :)
the trigger mechanism remains the same. you had to hit the handle from above, which is not very convenient. and if you shoot from a distance of more than 5 m, then it’s impossible to hit anywhere (haha)
a bolt was also made for inserting shells. The free assistant helped me with the photos.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  CALIBER

The caliber of my air gun was 9 mm. By the way, the caliber of most factory air blowers is 4.5 mm. the large caliber somehow upset me, because it required more air to push out a large-caliber projectile, which means you need to pump more. I told my friend about my problem. he successfully joked that if I reduce the barrel, then my air gun will then shoot with the barrels themselves. during that conversation I thought it was absurd... I didn't know what would happen next.
What I liked most was shooting drills. they have one very good plus. due to the fact that they have a helical geometry, they twist in flight, thereby becoming more stable in flight. During the experiments, the drill never cut flat. If you take powerful factory pneumatics or even combat rifles, then the barrel is threaded. due to which the bullet begins to rotate as it passes through the barrel. the range, accuracy, and stability of the bullet in flight increases significantly. I definitely can’t cut a barrel in my workshop: (for this you need a special machine. But shooting with drills slightly compensates for the lack of a threaded barrel due to the fact that the drill itself is, as it were, cut.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.1 AND 2.2

The next stage in the evolution of my pneumatics was an even greater reduction in the volume of the cylinder. in model 2.1 (no photos of this model have been preserved) its volume was approximately 100 ml. if in model 2.0 you had to do 8 pump strokes (then you just don’t have enough strength), then in model 2.1 you need to do 6 pump strokes to the maximum. the power is the same. but here there was a problem... if I can’t pump more with the pump... that is, 6 pumps is the maximum: (that’s it. I can’t make the air more powerful - I thought and began to feel despondent and upset. For several days I suffered from creative crisis, I thought that everything was lost, there was no longer any meaning in this life, until one thought hit my head: according to Pascal’s formula (or whatever it is): pressure is equal to force divided by area, we can conclude that the smaller the pump has a piston ( that is, the cuff, that is, the diameter of the cylinder) the easier it is to pump the pump. (I could describe everything better, but I won’t bother, anyone who wants to will understand). In general, it dawned on me: I need to throw out the factory hand pump and make my own with a smaller cylinder diameter. Which is exactly what I did. After several unsuccessful attempts to make my own pump" high blood pressure"I finally got it :D
the pump was 90 cm long and could pump a little more than 15 atmospheres. Pavlenty is rejoicing. development continues. the next model of my air 2.2 was already with a built-in pump and an even smaller cylinder. Now the volume of the can was approximately 50 ml.
I could make 5 strokes with the pump (I couldn’t handle it further), but this was enough to pierce more than 3 cm of wood with the pump. a breakthrough was made. the power has increased, and the reload time has decreased (from 6 to 5 strokes). cheers, comrades. photos of model 2.2. attached:

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.3

If you look at the photos of Turkey 2.2, you will notice that its pump and cylinder are perpendicular to the barrel. this is very inconvenient and not beautiful... ugh... it was necessary to somehow make the whole thing more compact. After thinking a little, I decided to go to the store and buy 2 water corners there. These are probably the only 2 things I bought. yes, yes, reader. all the air, not counting these two corners, was collected from trash that I found near the house (or in the house). Having bought two of these nonsense, each for 70 rubles (140 rubles... I’ll go broke like that), I made the barrel parallel to the pump and the spray can. just like that. this is model 2.3.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.0

After conducting experiments with Turkey 2.3, I realized (strangely why not right away) that I had to make a lot of effort to open the release valve, that is, to shoot. the trigger mechanism remained the same primitive: you hit the pin with your hand, which pushes the valve. something had to be done about it. After watching all sorts of videos on YouTube about homemade PCP air vents, I noticed that they all have a striker (a striker. I don’t know what it’s called. pfft). In general, I decided to make a drummer.
here a problem arose... before I did without a stock, I didn’t need it. but if you make a striker, then it must be secured behind the release valve. that is, I needed to make some kind of frame to place everything on it.
Having climbed the mountain “Olympus of Construction” and having come there to the master Ivan (my dad), I asked him... for a board. Yes, thicker. he gave me access to a pile of boards, and after thinking a little, I decided to take an oak board (oak is strong). taking oak was my mistake. if I had taken pine or linden, I would have made a bed in one day, but I spent 3 days fiddling with an oak board, hollowing out something similar to a bed from it. after some gentle processing it began to look quite good.
the firing pin has a lever that you pull to cock it. after this it remains in a tense position. you need to shoot outside thumb right hand push the lever up. it will slide off the step and, under acceleration (under the action of the spring in it), will hit the valve. It is difficult to cock (which means it is powerful), but if you make more than 4 strokes with the pump, the hammer often does not have the strength to open the valve. This is very bad, because I’m afraid I won’t be able to make a more powerful drummer. I present Turkey 3.0:

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  FIELD TESTS OF MODEL 3.0

I did a lot of testing with this model. Unfortunately, few photos were taken, because at that time I had not yet thought that they would be needed and that my air vehicle would still undergo big changes.
Let's move on to testing.
It’s worth saying that, as a rule, my projectiles always have some kind of limiters: nails have heads that prevent them from further entering the target, drills have a thick layer of electrical tape at the end so that it fits the caliber. in this regard, although the shells had greater penetrating ability, they did not always penetrate their targets. however, they sewed targets such as tin cans and coffee cans right through on both sides and even two cans per shot.
I like to measure the penetration power of wood. Model 3.0 hammered a nail 3 - 3.5 cm. Excellent. I also had a hollow brick from a heater. Having shot at it with a drill, I got a complete penetration of one side. This surprised me. punching 1.5 - 2 cm of brick - I really like this. The power is excellent. Having shot all the cans and lost all the drills, I decided to make ultra-light traumatic bullets from potatoes, and later from beets. At first I wanted to shoot potatoes at people, but after testing on plywood I realized that even potatoes can cause serious harm to a person. After shooting potatoes at the plywood, I was stunned. a small piece of root vegetable pierced the plywood: 0 and the projectile scattered into molecules (this is a figurative expression).
I also decided to play a little with plasticine, namely, shoot at it and look at the traces of hits. and now the photos:

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.1 DIMENSIONS

It would seem that it’s time to finish the project, everything is fine, the power is excellent, but I was really not satisfied with the size of my Turkey. The total length of the air was 148 cm. In addition, it had to be pumped. after extending the pump rod, the length of the air vent increased by another 80 cm. That is, this nonsense was already about 2 meters. it was inconvenient to pump, the pneuma was heavy. The power is there, but I would like to see it in a more compact mode. I decided to do a desperate thing: shorten the overall length of the air. the first thing was to shorten the pump, the length of which was 90 cm. Then it turned out that my barrel of 9 mm caliber and 87 cm long was longer than the pump, so it became impossible to pump air. I felt sorry for shortening the barrel. I will never find such a pipe anywhere else (the handle is from a mop). I decided to take the pipe from the curtain. I will have 5 meters of these pipes. the barrel was made 50 cm long. Accuracy at a long distance would naturally decrease, but since I didn’t have a sight and I was aiming bluntly by eye, at the barrel, there was plenty of accuracy with a 50-centimeter barrel. the caliber also decreased. now it is 7.5 mm. and since the caliber is smaller, the bullet speed will be higher. I also shortened the balloon a little. its volume became approximately 30-40 ml. After all the modifications, I assembled model 3.1 and got a total length of 126 cm. That is, it became 30 cm shorter than the previous model. By completely remaking the rod for the pump, namely making it from an aluminum tube instead of an iron pin, I significantly reduced the weight of the air. Now it has become lighter and more compact.
remember what I said about the joke about shooting with guns? So, after some shots, the barrel simply flew out of the trigger tube... if it weren’t for the handle on the barrel, it would have completely flown out of thin air. This is no longer funny: 0 we had to make a tighter bolt, which slightly reduced the convenience of closing it.
what about the power? power... it decreased: (decreased noticeably: ((
Now the nail penetrated the board no more than 3 cm (within 2.5 - 3 cm). I was upset. but the work of shortening the pneuma had already been done and nothing could be returned. I decided that this power was also quite decent.
As for the pump, it was now possible to pump a maximum of 8 times (instead of 5). the rate of fire thereby dropped. I wasn’t too upset because the pump became smaller and more convenient, and it was possible to compensate for the recharging time with quick pumping.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  Hatsan 125

I’ll make a short lyrical digression.
The most powerful air gun I've seen on the Internet is the Turkish spring-piston Hatsan 125. According to the manufacturer, its initial bullet speed can reach 380 m/s... let's make a comparison.
bullet speed:
Makarov pistol - 315 m/s
TT pistol - 420 m/s
AK-47 - 715 m/s
SVD - 830 s/m
Mosin rifles - 870 m/s
T-90 tank - 1700 m/s
the newest electromagnetic gun in Russia (railgun) - 5500 m/s
:D
someone may have noticed that Makarov’s bullet speed is much lower than Khatsan’s. but the air gun has a bullet mass of 0.5 g, while Makarov’s has more than 6 g. This is where the hidden energy of the firearm lies. Although the Hatsan has a high muzzle velocity, the muzzle energy of this air gun is only 33 J, while for the Makarov Pistol it is 300 J. 10 times more. but there is a big BUT: when hunting small game (duck, bunny) there is nothing better than pneumatics. Hatsan can punch right through a duck, which is more than enough to take it down. In addition, pneumatic guns have very little recoil and shot noise.
a few words about muzzle energy. According to the law, pneumatics cannot be more powerful than 25 J. The Hatsan has 33 J.. the law is circumvented in this way: when purchased, there is a weakened spring in the air, thanks to which the power drops to the permitted one (25 J), and the Hatsan comes with a reinforced spring. the buyer, at home or with the help of a specialist, changes the weakened spring to a strengthened one and receives 33 J. just like that.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.2 FINAL DEVELOPMENT

Turkey version 3.0 turned out to be the most powerful. but due to its length and mass, it did not become the conclusion of this project. I decided to achieve increased power by improving the quality of some parts. I spent just 1 day trying to make a good release valve that opens when necessary, closes when necessary, practically does not poison and does not break after 2-3 shots. The development is secret, I didn’t take pictures. Then I modified the trigger mechanism itself, making it better and more convenient. a normal trigger appeared. now there was no need to protrude the lever on the bump stop thumb. I also tried to better connect the pump with the can and with the trigger mechanism.
the stock was painted black. the appearance turned out to be quite good. beauty:D

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  more photos:

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  and also:

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  FIELD TESTING OF THE FINAL VERSION

The development of my air gun is finished. this is the final version. which means it’s time to conduct penetration tests, as well as measure the initial velocity of the bullet.
go.
the shells are made of nails (150 mm). bullet weight 6 g.
the tree penetrates an average of 3 cm (yes, model 3.0 was more powerful).
cans, coffee cans and paint cans rip right through on both sides, even despite the stops on the bullets.
breaks through one side of the bucket and gets stuck due to the stopper.
In experiments with beets (replacing potatoes), it was found that the root crop could no longer penetrate plywood. this was due to a reduction in power and caliber. (previously the potato pellets were larger).
short projectiles from a nail get stuck in a two-centimeter board due to the limiter, appearing slightly on the reverse side.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MEASURING THE INITIAL FLIGHT SPEED OF A BULLET

and so, guys, measuring bullet speed without a chronograph. let's go.
At first I decided to take measurements using an acoustic method: you record the sound of a shot and the sound of a hit on a voice recorder, then use a sound editor to see how much time has passed between these two sounds, divide the distance from which you shot by the resulting time and get the speed. it seems simple - I thought, and took more than 20 measurements... the results turned out to be too different from each other. in some places they were underestimated (I thought so), in others they were fantastic (I got more than 2000 m/s on two measurements). Apparently I don't know how to use a sound editor (pfft). I decided to give up the idea and started measuring the speed using a ballistic pendulum. The principle is this: a suspension (taftalogy) is suspended at a certain height, at which you need to shoot. the bullet should get stuck in the suspension. after the shot, the bullet transfers energy to the gimbal, causing it to move, moving the slider in front of itself. after which the distance by which the slider has moved is measured. a tricky formula is taken and the speed of the bullet is calculated.
for this whole pendulum shenanigan I needed to know exact mass bullets and mass of suspension. I didn’t have scales... I had to make... lever ones. the result was a fairly good scale, capable of measuring the load with an accuracy of plus or minus 3 g at heavy weight and accurate to the gram with very low weight. I poured water into the counterweight with a syringe. since the volume of water is numerically equal to its mass (that is, 10 ml = 10 g).
Having learned all the necessary parameters, I began to measure the initial speed of the bullet.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  RESULTS

I shot two types of shells: beet bullets and nails.
To begin with, I didn’t worry too much about the accuracy and purity of measurements. I took more than 20 measurements and... I was horrified: 0 the speed of the bullet when shooting beets reached 382 m/s... but... to achieve such a speed, the air must be heated. but in my air it doesn’t heat up in any way, and I shot in the evening: there was no sun. what is this... it can’t be... I decided to reject the results and do everything again.
refined measurements were carried out. all the next day I did nothing but try to achieve the greatest accuracy. The changes also affected the scales; they became more accurate. It turned out that my suspension weighs 20 g less (this is not that much, but still). I also tried to take into account many factors, including the time of day. and for good reason! After calculating the speed of the bullet, it was found that at night the air gun shoots a little weaker than during the day. apparently due to a decrease in air temperature at night.
More than 40 updated measurements were carried out.
First, I’ll tell you about a bullet made from a nail, the mass of which was 6.5 g (plus or minus 0.3 g).
the initial flight speed of the carnation varied between 48 - 56 m/s. seems like a little? still breaks through the bucket.
Let's see what happens with the shells made from root vegetables.
I measured the bullets in groups of 20-30 pieces and divided the resulting mass by the number of bullets. So the resulting average mass of one bullet was 0.44 g.
the initial bullet speed was 173 - 195 m/s...
this won't kill anyone...it's a shame. and in flight, due to their irregular (almost square) shape, they quickly lose all their power. if you shoot at an aluminum sheet from 5 meters, then distinct dents from the beets will form in it, and when shooting at the same sheet from a distance of 20 m, only a wet spot will remain. I wasn’t upset by this, because it’s all about the bullets, and not about the air itself.
I would like to note that the air gun was made quite powerful, but still did not exceed the power of the most powerful factory air gun in the world, Hatsan 125. Also, do not forget about other characteristics. The reliability, accuracy, and especially the rate of fire of my pneumatics leave much to be desired. Yes, I can easily hit a 0.5 by 0.5 m aluminum sheet from a distance of 20 m, but the accuracy should be much better. as for the rate of fire. I didn’t take measurements on this matter, but if you estimate by eye, it turns out to be about 15-20 seconds per shot.. hmm.. I thought it would be much more.
Overall I consider my work quite suitable and successful.
Thank you very much to everyone who read. You can like this message, just so that I know that someone has read it, and you can also leave your comment, question, criticism right here... or if you find any mistakes, be sure to write about it.
Next time we'll do something more powerful than Turkey :D
beaver everyone.

Tags: How to make air from a pump at home

How to make pneumatics at home? In this video you will learn about it! Attention! Don't you dare shoot...

How to make a butt for a homemade air gun. Help me give you the dimensions or how to make an air rifle from a pump. | Topic author: Nina

Anna  Hello!
You were funny with the rifle from the pump!! !It’s cheaper to buy MP-512 Polina right away, and then UP if you get tired of it. Or take IZH-60 right away, with subsequent modernization in PCP, only this will require up to 3 thousand, for vintar and whales another 10 thousand.
I won’t describe here what and how to do, it’s better to immediately give links to the main airgan resources, everything is explained and shown there in detail.
Here are the links for Murka 512 -
Or look on another airgun website - talks.guns.ru, there is a lot of stuff there
I see another pneumatic airgunner is being born!! !
The pneumatic one sees the pneumatic one from afar!! !The crows running amok at your dacha and your neighbor’s dacha won’t have long to live.
Just follow the safety rules for using weapons!!!
Good luck! Bye!

Natalia  Maybe you’ll find something

Inna   here you go