Rope climbing technique. Descent along a fixed rope. Lifting on one jumar with the help of legs

Sometimes you need to not only go down the rope, but also go up. There are a great many reasons for this, there is no point in considering them - everyone who has encountered high-altitude work or mountaineering knows this.
There are also a huge number of lifting methods.
Today we will look at (I took quite a lot of photographs) the method of lifting “through a block”. This method is purely pro-Malpian; climbers prefer to “jumper/zhumaryat”.

The system is fully assembled. Separately, I would like to add about preventing forgetting about the safety device!

Let's look at the diagram element by element.

Descender*
*In this case, “Gri-Gri 2” was used, which is a belay with an ascent/descent function, which is somewhat incorrect, but what was at hand
Almost anything can be used. Desanter, ID, RIG, and all are structurally similar. You can even climb on figure eight. But this is for real Bolsheviks.

Directly “lifting” mechanism. Zhumar can be easily replaced with a crawl, and, in case of urgent need, with the same tiblok. But the most convenient device for such matters is zhumar/poigne. And you can hold on to it, and it moves up the rope a little further than the others. A pedal is attached to the jumar, which is visible in the first photo.
This type of placement of the block video is highly desirable. It has been experimentally determined that this results in the most optimal efficiency. Plus, the clamp does not turn out.
It’s better to lock the carbine, naturally. This is my fault, I only saw this TB violation now.

How does it work? I won’t say it’s easy and simple, but it works!
We take the jumar as high as possible along the rope. Then, transferring our weight to the pedal, we use the block roller to remove the slack in the rope that occurs between the descender and the clamp. Naturally, no one bothers you to “hustle”, reducing the load on your hands. And in general, never forget that a person’s strongest desire to do nothing is their legs!

"Frog way"

After the slack has been taken out and your trigger has clanged into the block roller, leaving another dent on its shiny side, you slowly transfer your weight back to the trigger, loosening the jumar. Which after that, drive up the rope again until the desired effect is obtained.
In order to go down, you need to load the trigger and simply disassemble the “lift”.
Naturally, this works not only for ascent, but also for displacement relative to the vertical axis of descent.
Oddly enough, among climbers and emergency workers, this method is not only not used, but also unknown. At least to those whom I encountered on this issue.
If any points are unclear, ask, I will try to clarify. If anyone would like to try it out, I sincerely advise you to practice at a low altitude, with a ladder at your side. Little like

Separately, I would like to add that you can always (almost) physically criticize the author, acquire the above equipment (and more), as well as listen to an extended lecture or give me cognac at the address: Samara, Lenin Avenue 1,

A zhumar is a mechanical clamp with a handle used in mountaineering for vertical climbing of a rope. It slides freely up and blocks downward movement. When choosing such a device, you need to look at its design and manufacturer.

How to choose a jumar

Zhumars are divided into right-handed and left-handed - for the right and left hands. They differ in the location of the cam (eccentric) and the working groove for threading the rope. Which of these designs to choose is up to you. Here everyone chooses what is more convenient for them. The handle of the jumar should lie comfortably in your hand, without pressing or slipping.

What to pay attention to:

• ease of latching and insertion;
• rope behavior.

The lighter the jumar, the more convenient it is to use. A good clamp is equipped with rubberized grips, a notched latch, and slots to remove water and dirt.

The latch is one of the most important elements in the clamp. The zhumars in which it opens quickly and easily can be used even in the most difficult conditions: in caves, when climbing with gloves.

If you buy a jumar for professional use, it must have a certificate. A non-certified clamp cannot be used in competition.

Jumar manufacturers - which one is better?

Jumar was invented in 1958 by two avid climbers from Switzerland, Jusy and Marty. The new device was named after its creators, taking the first letters from their initials. Today, many companies produce zhumars, but not all of them are convenient and lightweight. The most popular among athletes, speleologists, rock climbers and mountaineers are clamps such famous brands, How:

• "Petzl" - France;
• "Singing Rock" - Czech Republic;
• "Vertical" - Russia.

These are manufacturers of sports equipment. Their arsenal has all the necessary equipment to conquer the mountains. Jumars of these brands are not only light and easy to use, but also have good durability.

The best models of jumars - top 4

Petzl Ascension (“Petzl”)

This is one of the lightest jumars - 165 g. It can be used on ropes with a diameter of 10 to 13 mm with a load of up to 140 kg. The device has a comfortable handle covered with soft rubber, a well-functioning latch and a wide connecting hole through which you can install a pedal and a lanyard. This kind of jumar performs well when climbing using the “frog” method and works without problems on wet and muddy ropes.

Lift Ascender ("Singing Rock")

The “Lift Ascender” clamp has everything you need for quick and comfortable lifting: a comfortable handle and stop, slots for draining water and dirt, a reliable latch that allows you to quickly remove the load from the jumar without moving it forward. The latter is especially true in a position where the clamp is “driven into a knot.” Device weight – 260 g. Maximum load – 100 kg.

Petzl Ascender (“Petzl”)

Convenient and fast jumar with an ergonomic grip and a latch recessed into the body, protected from accidental opening. There are carabiner holes at the bottom and top of this clip. At the bottom of the structure there is a stroke for the “pedal”. Product weight - 195 g.

Zhumar “Ver 0101” (“Vertical”)

A fairly convenient clamp with slots for water drainage and a quick-release latch. It handles well on slippery ropes, has a comfortable grip and an anti-slip handle. This is jumar Russian production. Its cost compares favorably with the prices of its imported analogues. Product weight – 212 g. Maximum weight load – 6.5 kN.

How to use jumar - classic lifting technique

The classic climbing technique in mountaineering is called “crawl-jumar”. With its help, a rope is climbed using two main clamps: a leading one and a fixing one.

Lifting algorithm:

1. The leading clamp, with a step attached to the leg, is raised along the rope to a comfortable distance. At the same time, a yielding movement of the leg is made;
2. The athlete stands on the steps and brings the fixing clamp as close as possible to the leader, then sits on it.

This technique can be used in another way. To do this, you need to stand on the auxiliary clamp, while simultaneously lifting the leading element up along with the step. If the rope does not pass through the clamp when standing up, you need to grab it just below the jumar and pull it through the clamp. In this case, it is not necessary to sit on the clamp.

Lifting on one jumar with the help of legs

The rope hanging below the jumar is folded into a loop. The leg is inserted into the resulting “lasso”. The leg straightens and at the same time the jumar moves up. This is how the lift is achieved. This method is suitable for traveling short distances.

"Frog" technique

When climbing this way, the bottom clamp moves almost automatically.

Technique:

• place the clip on the harness as low as possible;
• fasten it so that it fits against your stomach;
• attach the pedal through the small hole at the bottom of the jumar;
• start lifting by moving the jumar up and fixing your hands on it;
• pass the rope between your feet and pull your legs up while spreading your knees to the sides;
• stand on your feet, pushing down.

When standing on the pedals, the rope should be clamped between the feet and pass freely through the lower clamp. Here it is important to push down and not to the side. At the end of each cycle of movements performed in the “Frog” technique, you need to slightly raise your hips and arch your back. This will help you move another couple of centimeters.

When using a jumar, it should not be lowered below waist level. If you fall in this position, the clamp may completely collapse or simply break the rope.

When moving the jumar, do not push it against the knot. Since the main function of the clamp is to go up, it will simply get stuck in place and it will take you much longer to remove it later.

To remove a stuck jumar, push it forward a little and then open the cam.

When using the clamp in loose soil conditions, make sure that no pebbles or branches get into the mechanism. A blockage between the rope and the cam can cause the jumar to loosen under load, which is dangerous at any height.

Disadvantages of zhumars

Despite the fact that jumars are very popular in mountaineering, they have one significant drawback - they are unsafe. On an icy surface, such a device can slip, and from a strong jerk and overload, it can completely break the rope or destroy the braid.

Methodological material, developed as a teaching aid for teaching rope access techniques at the Industrial Mountaineering Training Center.

Methodological material developed as a teaching aid for teaching rope access techniques in Training Center "Industrial Mountaineering". Author: Anton Yuryev ( Notes from a rescuer)

Important

• It is necessary to constantly ensure that all carabiners are coupled and loaded along the main axis;
• The descender installed on the rope must be locked whenever the free end of the rope is not held in the hand;
• Keep hair and loose clothing away from the descender and other moving parts of the equipment;
• Avoid the possibility of high dynamic loads (breakdown) on the hand and chest clamps;

• It is necessary to constantly monitor correct position safety device;
• The belay device must not pass under your arm;
• By attaching the safety device first and removing it last, the worker eliminates the possibility of forgetting about the insurance;

Individual equipment

The whiskers are made of dynamic rope (EN 892 single rope). A figure eight or conductor is tied into the abdominal tying point. At the ends there are barrel, figure eight or conductor knots. The long mustache should be such that the worker, hanging on it, can reach the carabiner with his hand. The length of the short mustache should be such that its carabiner almost reaches the chin.

Devices

The descender is attached to the ventral point of the harness. The carabiner must be positioned in such a way that the latch is on the worker’s side during lowering. The latch axis should be on the side of the trigger device.

A hand clamp is attached to the long whisker.

The pedal is attached with a separate carabiner to the carabiner of the hand clamp. The pedal length is selected so that when the leg is fully extended, the hand clamp is directly above the chest.

Installing a rope into a descender (DS)

Rappelling

The descent is carried out by threading the rope through the SS. The speed of descent is regulated by the holding force of the free end of the rope. While descending, do not let go of the hand holding the free end of the rope. To start the descent, move the control handle to the descent position and smoothly press it.

The descent should be smooth, without jerks, maximum speed- 2 m/s.

When descending along a wall, rest against the wall with your knees slightly bent.

Stop

Freeing yourself from being stuck on a belay device

What to do when hanging on a belay device while descending

1. Remove weight from the belay device: to do this, install a manual clamp on the working rope and stand on the pedals or climb up the rope on the descender;
2. Unlock and lower the belay device;
3. Continue actions interrupted by hanging on the belay device;

This method is used for lifting short distances. For longer distances, use clamp lifts.

1. Unlock the control system if it is blocked;
2. Stand on the pedals while simultaneously picking up the slack in the rope through the control system. Your own weight is lifted using your legs, not by pulling yourself up with your arms. The body is parallel to the rope;
3. Transfer weight to the control unit;
4. Repeat steps 2–4 until the goal is achieved;

Attaching the Clips to the Rope

Lifting technique

1. Raise the hand clamp on the rope as high as possible while simultaneously performing a yielding flexion with the foot inserted into the pedal. Keep your foot underneath you;
2. Stand on the pedals and move the chest clamp to the hand clamp. Your own weight is lifted using your legs, not by pulling yourself up with your arms. The body is parallel to the rope. When lifting, the rope should slide through the chest clamp without the intervention of the worker. To do this, the shoulder straps of the harness must be well tightened, the rope must be located between the worker’s legs and not cling to the equipment attached to the harness. For the first few meters of the climb you may need to pull the rope through the chest clamp by hand;
3. Shift your weight to the chest clamp;

1. Install a manual clamp with a pedal on the rope;
2. Open the chest clamp cam;
3. Stand on the pedals with your leg fully straightened;
4. Place the chest clamp on the rope above the control system, transfer your weight to the chest clamp;
5. Remove the SU from the rope;

1. Place the descender on the rope below the chest clamp, but as close as possible to it, and block it;
2. Remove the chest clamp from the rope, transfer the weight to the descender;
3. Remove the hand clamp from the rope;

1. Lower the hand clamp to the chest;
2. Stand up slightly on the pedals to unload the chest clamp, press its cam with your finger;
3. Bend the leg inserted into the pedal at the knee and lower the chest clamp down the rope;
4. Remove your finger from the cam of the chest clamp before the mustache attached to the hand clamp tightens, transfer the weight to the chest clamp;
5. Repeat these actions until the goal is achieved;

Passing the guy line

Climb

1. 
   
2. Pull yourself up by the quickdraw and unfasten the first quickdraw carabiner located above the devices. Holding onto the ropes coming out of the guy down, smoothly move horizontally;
   
3. 
   
4. Continue climbing;

Descent

Passing intermediate fastening

Descent

Climb

1. Go up to PZ. Leave 1–2 cm from the hand clamp to the knot;
   
2. 
   
3. 
   
4. 
   
5. 
   
6. 
   
7. 
   
8. Continue climbing;

Passing nodes

1. Move the hand clamp above the knot;
2. Rise a little more on the clamps so that the chest clamp is a few centimeters from the knot;
3. Place the descender on the working rope below the chest clamp and block it;
4. Stand up on the pedals, unfasten the chest clip and move it above the knot, transfer your weight to the chest clip;
5. Remove the descender from the working rope;
6. Continue climbing;

1. Go down to the node. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the trigger;
2. Move from the trigger to the clamps;
3. Lower the clamps to the knot. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the chest clamp;
4. Install the descender below the knot, remove the slack so that the knot rests against the device, and block it;
5. Stand on the pedals, disconnect the chest clamp from the rope, and smoothly transfer your weight to the descender. The hand clamp should be positioned so that it does not hang on its mustache;
6. Remove the hand clamp;
7. Continue descent;

1. Descend/ascend to a node;
2. Create a second attachment point to the safety rope: tie an Austrian guide knot and insert a mustache into its loop or install and block the descender;
3. Move the belay device through the knot;
4. Remove the second attachment point created in step 2;
5. Continue driving;

Transition from one pair of ropes to another

Important!
During horizontal movement, the worker must be attached to four ropes: two working and two safety ropes. This method of organizing insurance prevents a fall along the trajectory of the pendulum if one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident when colliding with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.

Passing a long karem

Climb

Descent

1. 
   
   
2. 
   
   
3. 
   
   
4. Stand on the pedals of the hand clamp and disconnect the chest clamp, smoothly transfer your weight to the release device. Disconnect the hand clamp and belay device from the ropes to the PZ.
   
   
5. Continue descent;

Working on spaced ropes

By issuing or retrieving the rope through the descenders, the worker can move horizontally and vertically. The use of descenders is similar to their use for
descent and ascent.


If there are kinks between the descent area and the points where the ropes are secured, when the worker moves horizontally, the loaded ropes will move along the kinks, which can
lead to their damage. Ropes should be prevented from moving by using guy ropes or intermediate anchor points.

Overcoming the tread

During the climb

1. Climb to the tread
2. Remove the protector
3. Rise above the tread installation location
4. Continue driving

During the descent

1. Go down to the tread
2. Pull the rope away from the friction point
3. Remove the protector
4. Go below the tread installation location
5. Restore the location of the tread on the rope
6. Continue driving

Moving along structures using a mustache with a shock absorber

To free your hands, you can also join the girth structure. The mustache that encircles the structure is connected to the side points of the harness or to the abdominal point. On the design
located above the attachment points to the harness, the depth of possible sliding of the mustache along the structure in the event of a fall is no more than 0.5 meters. The worker leans with his feet.

Important:

Moving along artificial support points in the horizontal direction

Moving along pillars using loops

Climb

1. Stand on a leg loop
2. Raise the holding and safety loops higher up the pole
3. Hang on the holding loop
4. Raise the leg loop higher up the post
5. Repeat these steps until the goal is achieved

Rescue of the victim when hanging on the descender

1. 
   
   
2. It is necessary to give the victim as vertical a position as possible. To do this, the chest point of the harness of the victim is connected with a sliding carabiner to the rope above his descender (or a carabiner to the carabiner of his descender), after which, if necessary, the shoulder straps of the harness are tightened;
3. 
   
   
4. Lower the clamps until the short mustache is tensioned. Release the chest clamp and transfer your weight to the short arm. Disconnect the hand clamp and your belay device;
5. 
   
   
6. Carry out descent using the descender device of the victim;

Important!
The use of a victim's ropes for a rescue operation is permitted only if they and their attachment points have not been damaged. Unacceptable
use equipment subjected to high loads.

Rescue of a victim hanging on a chest clamp

1. Climb to the victim on the clamps, using his safety rope as your working one, and his working one as your safety rope. You need to be on the same level as the victim: if necessary, raise his belay device higher along the rope, you can move the hand clamp above the victim’s belay device;
2. Attach a long mustache to the abdominal point of the victim's harness, then move the belay device above his chest clamp;
3. 
   
   
4. Pull the victim’s chest towards you and attach the chest point of his harness with a carabiner to the carabiner of your descender. If the length of one carabiner is not enough to perform this action, use a chain of two or three carabiners or a short anchor loop (no more than 30 cm, you can fold a longer loop several times);
   
   
5. Disconnect the victim's whisker from his hand clamp. Disconnect the victim’s safety device from the rope;
6. Attach the pedal to the chest point of the victim’s harness and pass it through the carabiner attached to the victim’s hand clamp. Adjust the pedal so that its length is maximum;
   
   
7. Disconnect the victim's chest clamp. Take out as much slack as possible in the trigger device and block it;
   
   
8. Bend the leg inserted into the pedal at the knee and transfer the weight to the trigger device. Disconnect the pedal from the victim, remove the hand clamp from the rope;
9. Pass the rope coming out of the descender through an additional carabiner to increase friction. Carry out descent;
   
   

Important!
The use of a victim's ropes for a rescue operation is permitted only if they and their attachment points have not been damaged. It is unacceptable to use equipment that has been subjected to high loads.

Original taken from mr_aug V

Original taken from survivalpanda in Vertical training for beginners. Educational program. Entry-level theory and practice

In this article I will try, to the best of my understanding, to explain the basics of mountain training as simply as possible for absolute beginners in the topic.
I’ll tell you about the terms and simple techniques of descent and ascent that anyone can master.

Just a few months ago, I had to surf the Internet for quite a long time to collect this information, so I decided to systematize and present it as simply as possible, I think it will be useful.

The article turned out to be long, but you can’t erase the words from the song. It took a long time to write. Right along with writing, I was testing or mastering something new and including it in the article.
I also do not rule out some mistakes that I could well have made.

Warning: it is better to do such things under the supervision of professionals. Otherwise, you can very easily get killed or injured.

So. It all started with a great bang. All mountain training, according to my classification, is divided into two types of organization of rope movement. This is an upward movement i.e. ascent and downward movement i.e. descent.

Now we will slowly begin to examine each piece of equipment and term that may come across on the thorny path of a beginner who wants to get a little familiar with this topic.

The first thing we need is rope.

Without a rope, we won’t climb anywhere and then we won’t get down from there.

There are two types of ropes used in mountaineering: static(statics - slang) and dynamic(dynamics - slang). They are distinguished by dynamic qualities, namely the ability to elongate under load.

The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the shock that occurs when a climber falls (we will talk about the fall factor below). Therefore, dynamics are very often used for insurance when climbing. For bottom belay it is generally required.

For simple descent and ascent along a rope, a beginner will only need to purchase a static rope. A bay of 50 m is enough for everything and there will still be some left. A budget option would be to purchase domestic rope (Kolomna, Dzerzhinsk, etc.).

Standard diameters used in mountaineering are 9-11 mm (in industrial alps - 10-12). The more, the stronger and heavier the rope. The more it slows down in the trigger device.

I advise you to stay at the golden mean - 10 mm.

And if we touched the ropes, then we cannot ignore cord(repik, repchik - slang). This is an auxiliary static rope with a diameter of 3-8 mm. It has a bunch of uses, from organizing self-insurance to making laces.

In general, there was no paracord lying around.

I use a 5mm cord, a coil of which is almost always in my backpack.

Looks like we've sorted out the ropes.

From the ropes we smoothly move to the knots.

There are a lot of different knots and you can learn them endlessly. I will focus only on a few that, in my opinion, are most in demand.

Firstly this eight, one might say, is the main unit that can be used in almost any case. A very reliable knot that practically does not weaken the rope.

A figure eight is used for tying both to an individual safety system (ISS) and to a support. For connecting and extending ropes, in general for almost everything.

You need to learn how to knit a figure eight stitch.

Bowline- a very common knot for tying and creating loops. Less reliable than figure eight, but knits faster. A control node is required. Not completely reliable. Better tie a figure eight.

You need to know at least one grasping knot. Then we will use them to insure ourselves.

What a knot UIAA(UIAA), needed for emergency descents and descents with a minimum of equipment.

Note! The free end of the rope should come out from the side opposite to the carabiner coupling.

Have you bought a rope, mastered the knots, can you now climb and descend?

In principle, yes, you can rappel without any equipment, just like in the good old days.
Rappelling - rappelling. Many people think that this is any descent, but this is not so. Dulfer is a technique of descent named after the inventor.

So, it is possible to go down this way, but it is not safe and inconvenient.

For convenience and safety, they have been invented for quite some time. Personal Safety Systems(ISS, system, gazebo, suspended).

They serve to distribute the load on the body when hanging and falling and prevent you from falling.

There are systems full And waist.

I use a belt system. If desired, it can be turned into a full one by purchasing special straps.

For beginners, I would recommend a regular ASC without shoulders.

If you need a budget option, then the domestic company Vento. In any case, you should not take systems consisting only of slings. People affectionately call them “egg slicers.” If you have enough money, then it’s better not to skimp and take something from famous brands Petzl, Black Diamod, etc.

The following photo shows the main elements of the safety system:
Leg loops
Waist circumference
Safety ring (green)
Loops for hanging equipment - they are not load-bearing, and under no circumstances should you belay or hang on them.

We've sorted out the safety systems.

Now we need combine the rope with the iss. There are two ways to do this. With a knot and through a carabiner.

The knot is the same figure eight, and I’ll tell you about the carbines a little lower.

The carabiner clips into the central safety loop. This is a strong recommendation from all manufacturers.
Very often they teach how to fasten into a belt loop and a leg loop at the same time - this is a mistake because... increases the chance that the carabiner will skew and it will be loaded in the transverse direction. Only a knot can be attached to both loops at the same time.

If you don’t believe me, then read the instructions for your ISS.

Now let's move on to carbines.

So, what are there carbines.
Firstly, they are either coupled or uncoupled.
Their difference is that the clutch ones are equipped with a special clutch that prevents the carbine from opening spontaneously.

Couplings There are threaded, bayonet and automatic.
Automatic ones are easy to operate with one hand, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. I recommend using carabiners with threaded couplings. And the main thing is to always make sure that the carabiner is locked.

Also, carbines differ in shape and are: oval, trapezoidal, triangular, pear-shaped, etc.

Oval carabiners are the most versatile and inexpensive.
Trapezoidal ones with the same weight have greater strength than oval ones.
Triangular and pear-shaped carabiners have increased rope clearance. They are more convenient to fasten and use the UIAA knot.

Carabiners are made from different materials. These are steel, aluminum alloys and titanium.

Steel carabiners are heavy and very durable, aluminum carabiners are much lighter. Titanium ones are quite rare and I have not communicated with them.

Now for strength.

Each carabiner is marked like this. It means that the carabiner from the photograph in a locked state will withstand a load of 22 kN (2.2 tons) in the longitudinal direction. 8 kN if the latch is open and 8 kN in the transverse direction.

You see how important it is to couple the carabiners and make sure that they are positioned as they should.

Note! The carabiner coupling should always be facing you. This way you will see if the carabiner has accidentally become loose.

If there is a possibility that the load will be applied from several sides, so-called rapids are used. These are steel carabiners that do not have a folding latch, but only a threaded coupling.

I would advise a beginner to buy 3-4 carbines different shapes with threaded couplings. Manufacturing material - optional.

Let's move on to Descenders(SU, trigger).

The main principle of operation of all control systems is the creation of rope friction in the mechanism. As a result, you can control the descent with very little effort.

There are SUs manual And automatic.

In manual control systems, the speed of descent and braking depends only on the method of threading the rope and on the force with which the person pulls the rope below the control system.

Automatic release devices have a special mechanism. Pull the handle and go down. Let go of the handle and freeze. In this case, the free end of the rope must still be controlled.

In this article I will only talk about hand-held devices because... For a beginner who does not plan to engage in industrial alpine activities, automatic devices are completely redundant.

And I’ll tell you about two types of triggers - the figure eight and the Shikht washer.

SS eight- This is one of the most classic devices. It looks something like this.

The horn is needed to fix the rope, there are eights and without horns.
The disadvantage is that the figure eight twists the rope. This means that after several descents the rope will be full of “lambs” that will then have to be untangled.

The advantages include several options for threading the rope.

There are two of them. Through the carabiner (the descent speed is higher) and through the neck of the figure eight.

Well, at any moment the horned eight can be blocked by winding a rope around the horn.

Another, more modern version of the figure eight is the Petzl piranha. Has even more ways to clip in and adjust the release speed. More details about this trigger will be in a separate review.

By the way, take a look at this carbine. When it is uncoupled, the red anodizing strip is visible - a great idea, in my opinion.

The second type of manual control system is washer charge. They are: glass, basket, reverso, etc.

Works great with single and double rope. They don't spin it. In general, I recommend starting with just such a trigger.

The rope is threaded in the following way. A loop is created and threaded through a slot on the device. The free end of the rope is directed towards the SU jaws.

A carabiner is attached inside the loop.
Note! The cable is a non-loadable part and is used only for transportation.

Let's say the stars align. You have purchased a coil of rope, an ASC, carabiners and a belay device.

Good, still needed helmet. But I’ll leave that up to your conscience.
Although even a banal construction helmet won’t hurt.
I use ballistic helmets, which doesn't always cause a healthy reaction.

Will not be superfluous knee pads. Otherwise, bruises on the knees cannot be avoided.

Good ones are just as important. gloves. When descending quickly, the rope rubs and burns your palm; you may instinctively let go of the rope out of pain, which can be fatal.

Now we take all this and go to an impromptu climbing wall.

Don’t forget to invite a friend with you who will provide insurance. Have you forgotten? Well done!

Our climbing wall will be a small wall from which you can climb down. In the photo, for example, a retaining wall.

For the first training, the lower the better.

Now we put on the harness. Tighten and check all buckles. We ask a friend to check again.

The first step is to secure the rope. In mountaineering, it is customary to fasten either to one absolutely reliable point, or to two less reliable ones. These rope attachment points are called stations.

We will be tied to a living tree. This is a very reliable attachment point.

We tie ourselves to the tree with the same blessed eight, or with a bowline, not forgetting the control knot.

There is another option to buy yourself guy from a 120 cm long sling and use a carabiner to create a station like this.

Using a half-grabbing knot reduces strength by 50 percent, but the "noose" ( semi-grasping knot) allows you to gain a foothold higher.

We'll do it like this.

Well, in general, such sling guy lines are very useful on the farm. You should take a couple.

The station was created. First of all, we secure ourselves to it with a lanyard. If you don’t know what it is, then you can play it safe with a replica, like I do in the photo.

And while we're on the subject, I'll say a few words about lanyard mustache.
These are pieces of sling or dynamic rope, which are attached at one end to the system and at the other to the belay point.

There are industrial production and self-connected.

The purchased ones look like this.

Self-connected like that. The mustache is attached to the system using a figure eight knot.
The first mustache, as a rule, has a standard length of 55 cm. It is mainly used for securing to surrounding objects, such as the station that we made in the previous step.

The zhumar is usually attached to the second mustache. Its length should be such that, hanging on this mustache, you can reach the latch of the zhumar (I’ll tell you what the zhumar looks like, where the latch is and what it actually is a little below).

At the free ends of the lanyards, knots are tied into which carabiners are fastened. I use a half grapevine with three turns. If you don’t know how to do this kind of knot, use a figure eight.

Now let's go back to the beginning of the "cycle". We found support. We created a station on it, clicked on the lanyard. Happened? Well done!

Now, at the end of the rope along which we will go down, we knit a figure eight and snap it into the carabiner that we hung at the station.

At the other end of the rope we also tie a knot and throw the bay into the “abyss”.

This knot ensures that even if the rope does not reach the bottom, you will simply stop and not fall by slipping past the end.

Even if you think the rope has reached the bottom, you still need to make sure. Ask a friend below.

If the rope passes through the edge of the wall and rubs against it, then you should put it on it tread. This is a strip of dense material (teza, a piece of fire hose, etc.) with Velcro. Wraps around the rope and protects against abrasion.

If you don’t put on the protector, then after a couple of times you get this picture. Agree, that’s not the point.

We thread the rope into the descender (I hope you didn’t forget it below). Pull the free end up and take up the slack.

Now, if you pull the free end of the rope, you will not be able to fall.

At this stage, you can snap the lanyard arm out of the station.

By the way, your insurance will be based on the same principle. There should be a belayer standing below, and it is advisable that this is not your worst enemy, who is already rubbing his sweaty palms in anticipation of your fall.

The belayer must be ready to pull the free end of the rope.
He should not be distracted from belaying by pretty climbers or talking on his cell phone. All his attention should be focused on you.

We place the hand with the rope under the butt, while the rope will be additionally controlled on the thigh.
We go out with our backs to the edge, slowly releasing the rope by slightly relaxing our palms.

While resting your feet, we hang the fifth point so that your legs are at right angles to the wall. The back is straight and parallel to the wall.

We make the first descent slowly, in steps. We rearrange our legs and slowly release the rope until we touch the ground.

Congratulations, the first descent is complete!

In the future, the descents can be made more difficult as desired.

You can and should move from an insuring comrade to self-insurance(and also, for maximum security, both of these options can be combined).

This is precisely why we learned the grasping knot.

The knot is usually knitted either above the SU or below. What's the difference?

If we knit a grasping knot above the suction knot, then in case of failure we hang on it. The descender becomes unloaded.

To continue the descent, we need to loosen the knot and load the descender again. In order to loosen the knot we need to rise a little. To do this, we will need a clamp (I will talk about them later) or tie a stirrup on a rope.

In general, the task is not very trivial.
A simpler option is to tie a catching knot below the tie knot. The autoblock unit is used in the photo.

In this case, during a breakdown, we remain hanging on the knot, while the trigger remains loaded.

We only need to grab the rope between the control system and the knot, thereby unloading the knot, it will be possible to loosen it and continue the descent.
Like good method, but it also has disadvantages. If the reason for the failure is the destruction of the control system, then we will be turned upside down, which is very unpleasant. Although this probability is quite small, it should not be neglected.

Read more about attaching lanyards below the control system in a very sensible article:

That's it, the descent is mastered. You can not stop there, but continue training, for example, master the elements of assault mountaineering, which basically consists of spectacular descents.

Even if you stop after mastering only the basics, you have already acquired skills that can, in the event of certain circumstances, such as a fire in a stairwell, save your life.

Everything about the descent.

Now is the moment to touch upon climb along the rope, but first I’ll tell you a little about the clamps.

Clamp- a device that moves freely along the rope, but when a load occurs, the device is fixed, clamping the rope, hence the name.

To climb a rope you need two clamps or one clamp + an automatic belay device.

The most common clamp - zhumar. This is a clamp with a handle that is comfortable to hold. The most convenient tool for lifting (this is where the term zhumarit comes from, meaning to rise). It is advisable to have at least one.

Jumars can be left or right, for any hand.

The operating principle of the zhumar is quite simple. It is based on pressing the rope with a spring-loaded cam with spikes.

We put the open jumar on a rope and snap it into place. It slides upward freely along the rope, and when loaded it is fixed. It is impossible to remove a loaded jumar.

For greater security, you can click the carabiner like this.

A pedal is attached to the handle of the jumar. Still the most strong muscles at a person's feet.
The pedal should be such a length that when standing in it with a fully straightened leg, the jumar is at chest level.

Let the jumar be our first clamp. The second clamp can also be a jumar, but for the left hand.

Lifting on two zhumars is done like this.

We stand on the left pedal. We push the right jumar along the rope as high as possible, while bending the right leg at the knee. We push with our right foot - “climb the step.” Then we push the left jumar, etc.

It is better to secure both jumars with a self-insurance mustache.

Instead of the second zhumar, you can (and even need) take crawl. This is a clamp that is very similar to a jumar with a sawn-off handle. He hangs himself on his chest. In case of use with a waist-mounted ASC, you must additionally hang a special rope around your neck.

The principle of lifting on a pair of jumar + crawl.
I will further demonstrate this method in a separate video.

We hang out on the crawl. We push the jumar as high as possible, bending the leg with the pedal on the knee. We pull ourselves up on the pedal. The rope itself passes through the crawl. Then we hang on the crawl and push the jumar further.

In this case, you can hold onto the jumar with both hands, and put both legs into the stirrup of the jumar.

Lifting using jumar + crawl is the fastest and easiest to learn.

There is an option to do without jumar altogether.
For example, using the crawl + pantin pattern.

Pantin- this is the same crawl, only attached to the boot. The lifting principle is similar.

But I would advise you to buy at least one zhumar. In addition to climbing, you can also insure yourself on it, although it is not recommended.
The second type of clips that I highlight are safety clips.

You climb, and the belay clip rides next to you on the second rope, or above you if there is only one rope.

They go up freely, and when they fall down they are blocked and prevent you from falling. The most famous representatives: various drops, shants, backups and asaps.

I also want to mention the various mini-clamps. They are capable of performing functions similar to large ones, although they are less reliable and convenient. Their undeniable advantage is their low weight and size.

As a result, one or two of these clips can always be kept on the harness. You can read more about them in the review.

In general terms, everything about the climb.

Now about the unpleasant, namely about breakdowns. And even more specifically about the jerk factor.

A newcomer entering any forum to discuss any hardware almost immediately sees this term.
Its essence is very simple to understand.

"Jerk factor" is the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that stops it.

A rather rough indicator by which it is easy to determine whether a given piece of hardware will fall apart when jerked or not.
I strongly recommend avoiding falls with a factor greater than one.

It’s quite simple: if we secure ourselves to something (a quickdraw, a belay device on the second rope, etc.), the belay point should not be below the waist.

That's all. Thank you for your attention!

The most common types of extreme activities, in which the need to climb a rope regularly arises, can be called mountaineering (both sports and industrial) and caving. Obviously, to carry out such a climb, first of all, you need to have at your disposal a rope securely fixed at the top or, as it is also called, a railing. Those who are somehow involved with the use of climbing ropes know very well that climbing it is like a rope, i.e. what is called manually is quite difficult, and to a greater height is not very realistic, since the diameter of such a rope rarely exceeds 10-11 millimeters. Therefore, to perform a comfortable and safe ascent, it is necessary to use additional funds. Until not so long ago, these means were all kinds of grasping knots that were tied around the railing rope with loops from the cord. But their ease of use was not great, so over time the nodes were replaced by technical means lifting - clamps.

How does climbing a rope work?

There are a great variety of lifting options themselves, but they all come down to alternately loading the clamps and moving up the one that is in this moment not loaded. (I think that from what has been said it is quite clear that there should be two clamps)

In this case, the hands serve only to move the clamps along the rope and maintain balance, and the lifting is carried out due to the strength of the legs, for which loops of sufficient length, the so-called “stirrups,” are attached to one or both clamps. The stirrup can be used for one leg or both at once.

Basic principles:

For ascent, the main (descending) rope is always used and never a safety rope;

When climbing a rope, additional clamps are used; the safety clamp must simultaneously perform its function and cannot be used for climbing;

Prussian grasping knot- this is a short piece of rope (5-6 mm), tied in a ring using a double fisherman's knot.

The diameter is important, 5 mm is the best option - it is important that it is fixed, and not that it is thick.

The Prussian knot can be attached to the main rope with several different knots other than the Prussian, however the name "Prussian" is used for any of them.

Below is a description of the two most commonly used:

The simplest grasping unit does not require a carabiner:

It is usually knitted with a loop, as shown in the figure, but it is useful to be able to knit it with one end when the other is already tied to something.

It is often used to temporarily hold a taut main rope (for example, when pulling it with a pulley for crossing or when passing a knot through a belay device) and for climbing the rope.

Can be quite dangerous if used incorrectly - keep in mind the following limitations:

• The cord used to tie the prusik should be noticeably thinner than the main one. The sling is no good.
• When tugging, the knot can become very tight - and then untying it in a hanging position is a very unpleasant task.
• If the Prusik doesn’t “grab” in the first moment after the jerk, it will never grab. Let’s say, if you use it to secure yourself when descending a rope, tying it above the descender (which I really don’t recommend doing, although this is a very common method), then in order for the Prusik to work and hold you when you fall, you need to release it from your hand instantly - otherwise, having already begun to slip, then when you try to tighten and “grab” it will simply melt right through.

So have a nice descent!

If a regular prusik doesn’t hold well on a slippery rope, you can try making three turns around the main one instead of two:

Advantages:
- lightness
- convenient to attach to the “system”
- can be used for purposes other than climbing up a rope
- simple
- gentle on ropes

Flaws:

- the prusik must be loosened when lifting, thereby lifting with a prusik is a rather slow process
- if the assembly slips under load, there is a chance that the friction of nylon on nylon will fray the prusik and this will be very bad

Special devices:
The devices described below are interchangeable - any of the two devices used simultaneously can be either above the second or below, since either of them is easily RELEASED when tensioned.

Mechanical lifts:

These devices were intended as attempts to improve upon the classic Prusik. Except for the Shunt, all of these devices only work on a single rope.

Specifically designed for single rope climbing, the Wild Country Ropeman is a compact and highly efficient device. It is a block with a built-in kamalot and a carbine.

Advantages:
- easy to use
- reliable to use
- gentle on the braid

Flaws:
- cannot be used with double rope
- not very light

The clever design of this device, with absolutely no moving parts, brings it closer to the Prusik in terms of simplicity.

The only drawback of the device is that the teeth are quite aggressive, and if you do not install the device on the rope correctly, they can slide down, simultaneously damaging the rope and scaring you to death.

However, with enough training, using this device is absolutely not difficult.

Advantages:
- easy
- no moving parts

Flaws:
- slow
- practice is needed to learn how to use the device without damaging the braid

Petzl Handled Ascender (familiar zhumar for everyone)

Petzl

CAMP

The Petzl Ascender is a Rolls-Royce on the rise. Fast, convenient, safe, but heavy and expensive. This is exactly what you need to take with you when you are absolutely sure that you will be climbing. This device has an ergonomically shaped handle, a superbly designed lock/latch that can be operated with one hand. There is a hole on the top of the device where you can install a carabiner to ensure that the device does not slip off. At the bottom of the device there is also big hole for the carbine and less for the “pedal”.

Advantages:
- Absolute ease of use

Flaws:
- big
- heavy
- Expensive

At first glance, the Petzl Croll looks like an incomplete version of the Petzl Ascender - without the handle. I thought so until I had to use a croll this year - while filming a big wall in Sardinia - I instantly realized that a fast climb without a croll was impossible. The Croll is a torso lift that attaches directly to the harness and is held in place by a loop that goes around the neck.

If you use the croll in conjunction with the Petzl Handled Ascender double leg loop, the croll allows you to ascend very quickly indeed, because the technique used in this lift allows you to use both hands on the upper lift and both legs on the leg loop at the same time, it is less exhausting than others methods.

Advantages:
- fast
- less exhausting
- light weight

Flaws:
- inconvenient when negotiating obstacles such as corners, knots, and other equipment on the rope.

This smart multifunctional device can be used for upward transport, lanyarding and lifting.

As a lift, this device, although not as convenient as a lift with a handle, is still very effective.

Advantages:
- the built-in unit makes it very convenient to use the device for lifting loads.

Flaws:
- heavy and bulky
- not as convenient as a lift with a handle
- more steps to prepare for use

The shunt was invented for belaying when descending a rope, but can also be used for ascent.

This device has the great advantage that it can be used with two ropes, and also, if you suddenly need to rappel, you can easily release the shunt and descend more easily than with any other device mentioned here.

The basic rule in the Petzl instructions is correct use Shunt.

Advantages:
- possibility to use 2 ropes
- gentle on ropes

Flaws:
- heavy and bulky

Self-anchoring belay devices and their use.

The devices discussed below can be used as part of a lifting system. Since they lock when the rope to which they are attached is loaded, they can only be used from below one of the devices described above. The advantage of using self-anchoring devices is that you will need to take one less device with you, also if you are using a Gris-Gris or SRC type device, you can get down quickly if you need it.
(and similar devices)

Gri-Gri is a fairly popular device for skeet routes; it is usually used in conjunction with a lift with a handle. Gri-Gri provides additional anchorage and the ability to quickly and safely descend if needed.

Although Gris-Gris can be used to attach a "pedal", most effective way use is to attach the Gri-Gris directly to the gazebo in the same way as if you were attaching a belay to it.

A lift with a handle, into which the “pedal” is threaded, is placed above the Gri-Gri.

Advantages:

Easy rappelling
- auto-lock

Flaws:

Heavy
- not the fastest lifting method
- a rather exhausting method of lifting
- the ropes must pass freely through the Gri-Gris - forget about using very thick ropes.

Magic Plates (Magic plates)

Petzl Reverso, Reversino and other "magic plate" belay devices can be used on the bottom of the rope when climbing.

Two carabiners are required to use, but the device works well enough without requiring the use of any other devices, however the lifting will not be as easy as using specialized lifting devices, however it will be useful to learn how to use this device as a lift.

Advantages:

Dual-purpose device, useful in case of unforeseen circumstances and the absence of a specialized lift

Flaws:

Additional carabiners required
- very difficult to use

Trigger "Reflex"— reliable self-insurance when descending

I'm excited to introduce you to a new use of the "grasp reaction" to provide 100% reliable lashing when abseiling - this Self-Belay Trigger "Reflex"

After six months of field testing, I was able to create a device that can easily be equipped with a Petzl Ascension.

Unlike the original design, the “Trigger-Reflex” is foldable and can be attached to the poignette lock during lifting.

In fact, they can be equipped with any eccentric clamp, if it is fundamentally suitable for a clear grip on any normal rope (not icy)

Official presentation of the Self-Belaying Trigger “Reflex” based on the company’s “Ascension” "Petzl", which can be downloaded from the website at:http://www.soumgan.com/srt/descriptions/Trigger-Reflex.htm

So today, for anyone who wants a 100% reliable cam clamp for rappelling, I can offer this solution. This is the “Trigger Reflex” for the Petzl company, which uses the panic reflex to trigger without fail and stop the fall in the event of a fall.

It is noteworthy that it appeared 25 years after the use of the panic reflex in the design of a self-belaying clamp, which I called the “Universal self-belaying clamp “Reflex”, the first copy of which was created by Shyngys Duysekin, the Sumgan speleologists club, in 1982.

Then for the first time we turned the panicked grasping reflex to the benefit of self-belaying purposes, and were successful, although the world community passed by our breakthrough in deathly silence, continuing to pay victims for refusing self-belaying during descent or using unsuitable devices for this.

“Trigger-Reflex” has already received the approval of those who have become acquainted with it in practice.

TECHNIQUE

One leg method:

This is the most simple technique and very understandable. It doesn't matter whether you use Prussian or handle lifts or anything else - the principle remains the same. It is necessary to have two points of attachment to the rope. If one of the points is a "magic plate", make sure that its mounting point is lower than the other device, otherwise
- you will move up VERY slowly.

The top device should be attached to the safety loop on your gazebo, the bottom one to the “pedal”. It also makes sense to attach the bottom device to the safety loop on your gazebo for added safety.

Lifting is done by loading the “pedal”, moving the upper device up the rope, loading the top point, and then moving the device to which the “pedal” is attached. Repeat this sequence until the desired point is reached.

Required equipment:

Two lifts
- "pedal"
- up to 4 carbines

Two Leg Method:

Using a pair of lifts, you can rise faster by attaching a “pedal” to each of them, simultaneously securing each device to your gazebo. In fact, you will have to “walk” the rope in small steps.

Required equipment:

2 lifts
- 2 loops of sufficient length
- 2 “pedals”
- 2 carabiners (depending on the mounting method, you may need 2 more)

Lift or roll method:

Considered one of the most quick ways rise.

The crroll is attached directly to the safety loop of your arbor and is secured with a loop around the neck or arbor if you have one with a chest part.

A lift with a handle is placed above the roll and a “pedal” is attached to it, and it is also attached to your neck or gazebo. Grasp the lift with both hands and apply pressure to the pedal.

The loop on your chest harness will tighten and pull the crroll up the rope (if this does not happen, shorten the loop that secures the crroll). This movement technique is less strenuous than using two lifts, making it more suitable for long climbs, often in caving.

Required equipment:

Kroll
- neck loop
- lift
- a “pedal” that can accommodate both feet
- lanyard, loop or other device of sufficient length
- two carbines

Lift and Gris-Gris method:

The scheme is similar to the one with a roll, the only difference being that instead of a roll, a Gri-Gri or other similar self-locking device is used.

However, with this method, the rope itself will not pass through the Gris-Gris, so it will need to be pulled in by hand.

Required equipment:

Lift
- "pedal"
- Gris-Gris
- a loop
- 2 or 3 carabiners

Warning: it is impossible to take into account all the security nuances in the article, therefore it is assumed that the reader has sufficient basic knowledge on the use of equipment, not to mention common sense.

The best option would be to use the help of an instructor when learning how to climb and descend.

http://alp.org.ua/?p=8838 — link

You need to start talking about gripping the rope with your feet from the very beginning of the technique of climbing the rope with the system "Grandfather"

Lifting efficiency depends on:

1) Correct selection and equipment regulation.

2) Correct setting movements.

The equipment itself for lifting using the “Dead” method consists of:

1) Gazebos with a low and rigid suspension point.
2) Chest harness for pulling the “croll” up (whatever is convenient for you).
3) Pairs of clamps: chest + leading
Usually it is a “croll” + “poigne” (“basic” with an additional carbine in the French fashion). It is also possible to use “basic” instead of “croll”.
4) Paired whiskers, the long one of which serves as a safety net to the leading clamp.
5) Pedals with stirrups for two feet (some people find it convenient to have separate stirrups for each foot, but I don’t find this comfortable).

It is very important to adjust the pedal correctly. Its regulation is based on compliance three basic principles.

1) The length of the pedal should be such that, standing in it with one foot and forcefully pulling the clamp up, the distance between the bracket of its body and the bracket of the “croll” body is ensured - 3-5 cm.

Let's pay attention! One foot!

It follows from this that if you place both feet in the stirrup and stand as we are accustomed to doing on the ground (feet side by side and parallel to the surface of the earth), then the length of the pedal will noticeably shorten and become small. That is, we will not be able to stand on fully straightened legs! And this sharply reduces the effectiveness of lifting, causes fatigue and generally melancholy. The second element follows from this.

2) When placing two feet in the stirrup, they are positioned with the outer welts down and one steps lightly on the other. In this case, practically the same volume of stirrup is used as when working with one leg standing flat. That is, the pedal is long enough for both legs to be fully straightened!
(see photo below)

Let's pay attention! When resting on the stirrup, the pedals of the feet lightly step on one another! This is what makes it possible to clearly grab rappels with your feet.

3) The size of the stirrup must be sufficient for both feet to freely rest on it, freely put the feet in and out, and freely move them apart by 5 centimeters - enough to pass the rope...

Without further ado, the guideline is this: the length of the stirrup with one foot inserted into it should reach the knee. A little lower, but not higher, because otherwise the knee tends to slip into the stirrup, and this is unpleasant.

Grasping the rope with your feet while climbing

It is worth talking in more detail about the technique of using your feet to grab the rope under the “crawl” without using your hands. It seems that everything is obvious, but no - even small nuances of movements play a role.

Today, the craze for “Petzl Pantin” may give the impression that there is no need to be able to pull the rappel out of the “croll” with your feet, but this is not so.

Long before the advent of “Pantin”, cavers (including us) had already attached a variety of clamps to the foot, of which “Basic” still remains relevant for this purpose, since it is a full-fledged clamp for any operations, and not an extremely specialized one , like "Pantin".

In the end it turned out that the clip on the foot is really convenient: on long flights, but there the rope after a few meters itself comes out of the “croll” under its own weight and with competent technique rise.

But there are also disadvantages

At each PZ, the need to unfasten and fasten an additional piece of hardware is also not pleasant, and then tear the rappel out of it for a couple more meters until it moves on its own (despite the weak spring of the “Pantina”, it’s a similar story).

In addition, there are a lot of small plumbs where it’s easy to fasten the “leg” with a crowbar.

In addition, there are a lot of inclined climbs, where the clamp on the leg just gets in the way - it throws us belly-first onto the rock.

It’s not very convenient to hobble around the cave with a clamp on your leg between the plumb lines... So, take it off and then put it on?

Well, and something else.

I’m not saying all this to discredit Pantin - no! A wonderful piece of hardware when it's in place.

I’m just emphasizing the importance of perfect mastery of the footwork technique for pulling the rappel out of the “croll” when lifting.

Lifting with emphasis on the pedal and gripping the rope with both feet

This technique is useful in the following cases

1) When moving in a pure plumb line and along sheer walls. Even if the rope itself falls through the “croll”, the emphasis on the rope helps you stay vertical, so you don’t get so tired.

2) When lifting with a load

3) When you are tired.

Initial position:

1) Both clamps are on the rope, we sit on the “crawl”.

2) The cross-shoulder belt is tightened as far as possible to eliminate the “croll” play.

3) Both feet are inserted into the pedal stirrup, and the rope from under the “croll” is placed between the feet from the outside, on the toe side.

The lifting cycle is:

1) We lift the leading clamp with our hands, at the same time as if turning over on our backs and thereby raising our legs.

In this moment keep your socks pointed up by 5-10 cm so that the rope can freely pass down between them. If the rope still gets caught, bent, it is easy to straighten it by hand.

(technique demonstrated by Alina Gauzshtein, Sumgan club, 1988)

This lifting of the legs by inversion is rarely understood immediately - people begin to pull their hips up, tensing their abs and arms. In fact, everything is done without the slightest effort - swing back and your legs are up!

2) Now we close the toes of the feet, directing them with their outer welts downwards - emphasis in the stirrup, and with our toes grabbing and pressing the rope - as if stepping foot on foot

3) Gradually transferring the weight to the feet closed in the stirrups and squeezing the rope, we pull our legs under us for subsequent standing.

Don't go ahead! - Alinka shows, - At least the rock was nearby. Namely, for yourself.

4) Then we stand up, pushing our feet into the stirrup downwards, under ourselves, as if we were getting up from a chair without the help of our hands (try it!).

The hands hold the rope and the leading clamp higher and pull us up. In this moment of getting up, the whole body takes part, and not just the legs, or even worse, the arms!

Don't act like Alina in the right photo - it's difficult. The hands should be placed a little higher - not by the handle of the poigne, but by its body. The handle is comfortable on slopes, not on plumbs.

Attention! If you place your feet parallel and spread them entirely, and not just your toes, then the rope will most likely rest on the stirrup between your legs, and as soon as it can, it will throw the stirrup towards your heels! (this is in addition to the fact that the pedal length will not be enough to fully straighten your knees).

Lifting with an emphasis on the pedal and holding the rope with one foot

Very it is often difficult to work with both legs due to the nature of the climb itself, or whether it is simply not necessary. For example:

1) When moving along inclined walls, and the steeper the slope, the more problematic it is to use both feet in the pedal.

2) On cascades of small ledges, where it takes longer to push your legs into the stirrups and pull them out than to get out with one leg.

3) When moving lightly, with a small load, in the absence of fatigue.

In addition, working with one leg is often more convenient due to coordination of movements and more stable balance - the second leg pushes off the wall. With one foot you rise a little higher on the pedals - it’s paradoxical, but somehow it works out that way. Maybe due to fine-tuning the foot and better coordination?

Lifting with one leg is easier than with two, and is easy to master.

But to successfully pull a rope with one leg, there is one small subtlety in the movement of the leg.

1) We insert the supporting leg into the stirrup, leaving the rope outside on the right, so that it rests on the instep of the leg inserted into the stirrup. Help with your hand (often in the first step there is no way without this)

2) We lift the leading clamp with our hands, while simultaneously raising the supporting leg in the stirrup. But we don’t just lift!

The leg should make a sort of ballet feint: the knee goes to the side, and the foot under itself - at the same time, we provide the best straightness to the rope from under the “croll”, and it falls down most easily even under its minimum weight

Under no circumstances should you lift your leg just straight up.— the rope will definitely get stuck at the stirrup and give a bend that you will have to pull with your hands

3) After the clamp with the pedal and leg are raised, before standing up, you need to make the opposite movement - return the knee inward, placing the leg straight. In this case, the rope will definitely be pressed between the shin and the pedal!

4) Stand on the supporting leg, helping with your hands, which are held higher - by the body of the clamp and the rope above it.

5) And right there without a pause sit down gently on the crawl. There’s no need to plop down on the “crawl” like you would on a sofa at home—we’re on a rope!

This "feint" - knee to the side - inward - stood up, and makes it easy to drag the rope from the “crawl” with one foot.

http://www.soumgan.com/ - link

Then everything works out as if by itself - the body already automatically makes the necessary movements. And at first, in the process of learning a technique, sometimes one misunderstood or misunderstood point can completely ruin the pleasure and impression of the technique.

After all, a good descent is a safe descent!