Assembling a fishing rod and reel. Proper rigging of a float rod. Types of float rods for crucian carp

So, let's collect the gear. For each piece of equipment I will give some advice and comments from my own experience.

I’ll make a reservation right away. We will talk about gear for fishing in still water or in weak currents. The depth at the fishing spot is up to 3-4m. The lion's share of coastal areas of lakes, ponds, rivers, swamps, and in many cases not only their coastal areas, will fit these parameters.

In deeper places and with a noticeable current, slightly different options for float rods will be used (with a sliding float, wire rods, etc.), and usually, in such conditions, it is more advisable to switch to a feeder, spinning rod, etc.

There are different conditions. In some places it is enough to cast the fishing rod 1-2m from the shore, in others it is necessary to cast 10-15m or more. There are also different conditions in terms of depth, water color, size and types of fish caught. You can’t create an arsenal of several dozen float rods, tailored to each type of conditions. The most versatile tackle should be created. Why? Often we do not know the situation on a reservoir; it can be changeable. In addition, an angler often moves during one fishing trip between several fundamentally different areas and even bodies of water. So, I will tell you about the most versatile fishing tool with a float. Such a float fishing rod and equipment will allow you to cover a maximum of water conditions. This is my subjective opinion. In some ways, someone may disagree. I'm ready to argue in the comments.

Rod for float rod. I prefer a telescopic rod. The fishing rod must have guides and a reel seat. It is the sliding equipment, and not the blind one, that makes a rather lethal, long-range and universal tool from an ordinary float fishing rod.

Regarding other characteristics of the rod. Length 4-4.5m. I think that less than 4m is a bit short. And only when fishing in cramped conditions: among bushes, under overhanging trees, sometimes a stick 3-3.5 m long can work. At the same time, longer rods 5-6m or more do not make sense. The longer the rod, the heavier it is. A excess weight- it's too much. In addition, a couple of extra meters of rod length provide a minimal gain in casting distance. With a 4-meter fishing rod, we can perfectly place the equipment 15-20m from the shore, thanks to the reel.

Also based on the weight of the rod. It is clear that ideally you need to have the lightest and at the same time durable fishing rod. These are mutually exclusive characteristics. Those. in low-budget rods, which are used by 99% of domestic floaters, this is the case. If the rod is light, then the wall of the tubes is thin, you can literally press it with your finger. Naturally, such fishing rods break very quickly and at the most unfortunate moments. At the same time, there are fishing rods with thicker walls - they are strong, durable, but heavy. We need to find a reasonable balance. Choose a rod with sufficient strength and moderate weight. In the end, we don’t always hold the fishing rod in our hands, suspended. We often use various stands, .

There is an option to buy an expensive fishing rod made of cutting-edge material: light as a feather and incredibly durable. There are such products. But, for example, I can throw away hundreds of bucks on spinning baits and gadgets, but I feel sorry for elite float rods. I use two fairly cheap rods, each 4m long, of moderate weight. In terms of durability, both survived 5 and 15 years of use. I'm happy. If you are mainly interested in float fishing, you should think about it and buy high-quality modern fishing rods.

Fishing reel. A reel for a float rod, in my opinion, is simply necessary. I use small to medium spinning reels on my fishing rods. Such a reel makes it possible to: A) Make long casts; B) Quickly lengthen and shorten the fishing line; C) Fight large fish using a friction brake.

Depending on the tasks and the fish caught, they use different sizes coils For light equipment, with which we will catch small roach, crucian carp, a fairly small reel, size 500, 1000, 1500, will be suitable. For more powerful equipment, if we catch bream, carp, etc. – 2000—3000.

The requirements for a spinning reel for a fishing rod, of course, are not as stringent as for a spinning rod. Here we are not dealing with braided cords - we use monofilament, which does not saw the rollers or strip the beads of the spools. There is also no such load. If on a spinning rod we rewind hundreds of kilometers of line per season, then on a fishing rod there is much less manipulation.

So, a very inexpensive reel will do. It is important that the brake is sensitive; The line roller was spinning and the motion was quite smooth. All. The number of bearings, spool material, and the presence of an instant reverse stop do not matter much. It’s also worth looking at the price tag and comparing it with the quality of workmanship and durability of the reel. So, I preferred reels for $15-20 (Okuma, Favorite) over reels for ($5-8), because... the former will last at least 3-5 seasons, while the latter are unlikely.

As for the friction brake, I prefer the front one because... it is usually more sensitive than the posterior one. But, this is a matter of taste.

Float fishing line. Now there is a huge selection of high-quality fishing lines on the market. What is a good fishing line for a float rod? Durable - understandable. The diameter of the main line can be different. For delicate equipment: 0.18-0.2mm; for a more powerful one 0.22-0.3mm. Color – universal transparent. If fishing is in dark water: black, brown. On a clay bottom it is brown. On a sandy bottom - yellow. In an overgrown pond - green.

Line length. Usually one 100-meter reel is enough for 2 fishing rods, 50 meters each. You can wind 100... If you wish. You should wind backing or old fishing line onto the spool so that the main line is wound close enough to the collar. This will ensure a longer cast.

Other important characteristics of fishing line: memory and buoyancy. It’s good if the fishing line has minimal memory for bending, torsion, etc. It is also good if the line sinks slowly. It is extremely unpleasant when the fishing line lies on the surface of the water and the side wind blows a loop out of it. The float is dragged behind this arc of fishing line and all the raspberries are spoiled...

Fishing rod float. The shapes and sizes of floats may vary. The main struggle is between long, thin floats and short, pot-bellied ones. In addition to the property of making noticeable circles, pot-bellied floats lose. I would use them only when fishing near the surface or in the mid-water of some upper water...

For fishing in calm water, from the bottom, long floats are better. Designs can be different - it's a matter of taste.

May have an oblong, cigar-shaped body made of hard foam and a long antenna. It can be a molded plastic float, or a classic goose feather.

Floats are attached to the fishing line, usually using rings installed at the bottom of the antenna or directly behind the antenna. Fixation is done using tubes. These are just pieces of insulation from wires of a suitable diameter.

In order not to lose the float from inadvertently cutting the cambric with fishing line, you should play it safe and when installing the tackle, thread the fishing line through the ring.

Thus, the fixed float should, with some effort, move along the fishing line - depth adjustment. But don't drive on it freely.

Sinker for float rod. You can use a blind sinker or a sliding one. A dead weight is a piece of lead clamped onto a fishing line. I prefer sliding sinkers. I take a pellet and punch a hole in it with a needle. To do this, I clamp the needle in pliers so that the tip remains sticking out, comparable to the diameter of the pellet. I press the shot against a wooden board and gradually press the needle into the lead, punching the shot right through.

Such a sliding sinker gives less resistance when biting, does not alarm the fish as much, and makes the equipment more sensitive, because the impulse from the bite goes along the line to the float, without being loaded by the weight of the weight.

I try to choose a weight so as to load the float with one fractional or store-bought olive with a hole. The combination of pellets and a small fixed weight is not so good, because... the hole on the sliding weight is broken and rolled due to impacts against a stationary clamped piece of lead.

The load stopper is a loop knot to which the leash is attached. Or it is used.

Leash. So, at the end of the main fishing line they tied. We will attach the leash to this loop using the “loop-to-loop” method.

A leash is a piece of fishing line thinner than the main one. This is necessary so that if the tackle breaks on a hook or on a large fish that is incompatible with the tackle, we lose only the leash and hook, and not the entire equipment (float, weight). This is a conscious weak point of the equipment. The leash is made 10-20cm long, depending on the timidity of the fish. You can make a leash from thin fishing line or fluorocarbon. The ratio of the diameters and strengths of the main line and the leader line is not an acquired taste. It is important that the leash breaks with less force than the main one. But the difference in diameter should be small, about 0.025-0.05mm. A hook is attached to the leash.

Accordingly, if we catch small roach, rudd, crucian carp, then the diameter of the leash can be taken as minimal as 0.08mm - 0.12mm. If we catch bream, good crucian carp, perch, then: 0.15mm - 0.17mm. And if there is an opportunity to catch a few kilograms of carp, or ide, then: 0.18mm - 0.25mm.

Float rod hook. The hook can be very different, depending on the type of bait and the size of the fish. To fish with maggots, this will be the thinnest, smallest hook. When fishing with a large earthworm, it is quite an impressive hook.

So, what kind of fish can be caught with gear arranged according to the above diagram? Very varied! A thin, elegant version will be good for catching roach, silver bream, white bream, and small crucian carp. More powerful option(with a thicker line, a larger hook) for catching carp, carp, bream, ide, chub, perch. And this list can go on for a long time. So, a beginner who has built his float rods according to this principle can successfully fish in many bodies of water, in different places.

Let's agree that we are talking about fishing in small and shallow reservoirs without a current or in places with a quiet flow of water from the shore. Considered the equipment of a float rod for fishing in open water, or summer float rod for beginners.

The purpose of the article is to assemble an inexpensive and simple summer fishing rod that is more or less suitable for fishing different breeds fish - roach, perch, crucian carp, bleak, etc. The topic turned out to be large, so I divided it into three parts.

So, a float rod consists of: 1 - a rod; 2 - fishing line; 3 - float; 4 - sinker; 5 - hook (see picture below).

Now let's briefly look at the main parts of the float rod.

Rod

Let's immediately exclude wooden and bamboo fishing rods. Rods made from these materials are less comfortable and are inferior to fiberglass in almost all respects.

Fiberglass and carbon fiber have one significant drawback - they CONDUCT ELECTRICITY GOOD! Be careful in fishing areas near power lines. And with high air humidity, even contact with wires is not necessary for electric shock; it is enough just to approach a critical distance.

Fiberglass is a less durable material than carbon fiber, so the rod walls are made thicker, and the rods are heavier and less sensitive.

How to choose a fishing rod for a float rod

Telescopic fishing rods have five or more legs that fit into one another. When folded, the rod looks like a cane. In working condition, the knees are pulled out from one another and fixed due to the tight friction of one knee against the other.

Since I am recommending an inexpensive rod, it will most likely be from China or Korea. And manufacturers in these countries often write inaccurate information.

On cheap fishing rods, you shouldn’t look at the company name and the parameters, as mentioned above, do not correspond to reality. Therefore, I don’t see the point in writing a description of the parameters of the fishing rod in this note. You won’t be able to catch a big fish with cheap tackle; the fishing rod will break, but you can actually catch a fish weighing 2 kg.

Why do I recommend a cheap fishing rod for beginners? Because a beginner, due to the lack of initial skills, can break an expensive form and, because of this, quickly become disillusioned with fishing. Start learning on cheap models, and as you gain experience, you will decide what exactly and under what fishing conditions to buy a more expensive and high-quality fishing rod.

Standard procedure when buying a fishing rod

• Assemble the rod, swing it from side to side (shake), then inspect the joints of the knees, checking the strength of the fastening.
• Take the rod by the butt (handle) and press the tip end against the ceiling or wall, bending it. The shape of the bend is important here. The bend should be smooth and uniform along the entire length. Sharp bends are weak spots, and straight sections are excessive rigidity. Be sure to ensure that after bending the rod straightens without leaving any curvature.
• Inspect the rings and surface of the rod. The rings should be positioned so that the line runs without sticking to the surface of the rod. The “tulip” should be well sanded and fit tightly in the plastic holder. There should be no scratches or cracks on the rod.
• And also pay attention to the place where the coil is attached. The reel must be installed so that the rod does not hang forward, otherwise the hook will be late and the hand will quickly get tired.

Line and rod action

It connects all parts of the fishing rod together and bears the main load when hooking and landing fish. The fishing line must be equally strong along its entire length, not rot, and with the smallest thickness be able to withstand the greatest load.

Fishing line has several characteristics, but most often only two are indicated on the label of a reel with fishing line - diameter (thickness) and linear breaking load (strength).

In most cases, they are guided only by these two characteristics, but this is not entirely true (more on this below).

Diameter (thickness)

Labels often indicate a reduced diameter. It is noticed that the difference is two hundredths of a millimeter, it is written 0.12 mm, but in fact 0.14 mm. In principle, when a smaller diameter is indicated there is nothing to worry about. The main thing is that the fishing line matches the required breaking load.

And they underestimate the diameter in order to increase the price. After all, the thinner the line and the greater the linear breaking load, the higher the quality it is considered, which means the price should be higher.

Linear breaking load (strength)

Line strength is measured on a straight line, without knots. The knot, depending on its type and the parameters of the fishing line, reduces the strength by 5 - 50%. But even here on the packaging the breaking load is not indicated correctly, or rather it is written as overestimated. As they say, this is normal, it's just business.

But, choosing fishing line based only on these two well-known characteristics is not entirely correct. In addition to thickness and strength, the fishing line has other important characteristics: elongation (elasticity), wear resistance, rigidity (fragility), chemical resistance.

Extensibility (elasticity)

If you pull the fishing line by the ends as if to break, it will increase in length, and after loosening it will again return to its original size (without deformation). Elasticity is most important in winter fishing. You have to pull the fish out of the hole by hand using the fishing line. In this case, the elasticity of the fishing line serves as a shock absorber and softens the jerking of the fish.

You may have already seen in fishing stores a special fishing line for winter fishing. Its elasticity is or should be increased.

In a float summer fishing rod, the rod serves as a shock absorber. A rod is not just a stick, it has such a characteristic as “rod action”. I didn’t write about this above, I decided to write about the “rod structure” when we talk about fishing line. I'll try to briefly explain what it is. The rod can be thought of as a spring.

The ability of a fishing rod to behave like a spring with different stiffness, elasticity and at the same time not break or deform is called the action of the rod. Of course, there is a load limit under which the rod does not break, and it is called the rod test. But this is already a topic about spinning rods, which are used to throw baits of various weights. So we skip the rod test and move on.

There are three main tunings - fast, medium and slow. You can come across more names of the system, but here we consider only the main ones.

1. The rod has a rigid (fast) action and only bends top part whip.
2. The rod is of medium action, bends in the upper half of the whip.
3. A rod with a slow (parabolic) action, also called parabolic, bends along the entire length of the whip

There is no need to delve too deeply into the structure of the rod yet; as already written above, I recommend an inexpensive rod for beginners. On cheap models, the characteristics on the label do not correspond to reality, so we choose a rod only based on a visual inspection of the rod, so that it is not crooked, not slanted, not broken... (read the procedure for choosing a rod above).

Let's continue, the elasticity of the fishing line and the structure of the rod soften the jerks of the fish, thereby protecting the fishing line from breaking. But excessive depreciation is also not needed. There will be a late cut. Also, and vice versa, due to poor shock absorption of the fishing line or rod during hooking, we can simply tear the fish’s lip or, even worse, break the rod.

In principle, a beginner does not yet need to worry about the elasticity of the fishing line for a float rod. Still, cheap fishing rods have more or less quite tolerable action.

Wear resistance

When fishing with a rod and reel, the line constantly rubs against the guides. And when fishing for fish, the friction of the fishing line against the rings is even greater. Therefore, this quality indicator is the most important for a fishing rod and reel.

Hardness (brittleness)

The fragility of the fishing line affects the strength at the knots. Rigid lines have a high breaking load, but have the disadvantage of losing strength at the knots. To compensate for this disadvantage, special units are used. Another advantage of rigid fishing lines is that they are less tangled.

Chemical resistance

This parameter characterizes the resistance of the fishing line to aggressive environments, such as petroleum products. This affects the “aging” of the fishing line. In stores you can find Teflon-coated fishing lines. But they are expensive.

It is difficult to check all the characteristics of the fishing line at home. Therefore, when searching for a quality fishing line manufacturer, they are mainly guided by reviews in fishing magazines, or exchange opinions on forums on the Internet.

So what should a beginner choose? Again, I recommend choosing something inexpensive. For most cases, a fishing line with a diameter of 0.15 - 0.18 millimeters is sufficient. Can handle fish weighing up to 1 kg. There is no point in thinking about all the characteristics of a fishing line for a beginner. You need to know the wear resistance or chemical resistance of the fishing line will be clear after several fishing trips.

I also note that it is better to purchase fishing line of two diameters at once, for example 0.12 mm and 0.15 mm, or 0.15 mm and 0.18 mm. This will come in handy when you need to make leashes.

Float

The float serves as a bite alarm and holds the hook with the nozzle at the desired depth. It must be durable, have the greatest load-carrying capacity with the smallest possible size, be securely attached to the fishing line, move easily along it, be clearly visible on the water and at the same time not scare off the fish.

Fish bites happen “on the rise” - when the float comes out of the water, and “on the flood” - when the float goes under the water. Choose a float taking into account the habits of the fish and the influence external factors(wind, waves, etc.) .

For example, crucian carp mainly “lays down” the float. In this case, crucian carp needs a float that would allow the fish to do this with the least amount of effort. So that when eating the bait, the fish does not feel the float, and the float indicates a bite. It is called - float sensitivity. Those. For crucian carp you need a float that is as sensitive as possible to rising.

There is also such a characteristic - float stability. This is the ability of a float to maintain its position under the influence of external factors: wind, waves, braking by fishing line.

For beginners, I recommend the most versatile float options - goose feather float or similar, and fusiform. They are quite sensitive to bites both “on the rise” and “on the flood”, and the price is not expensive.

I recommended such floats based on what was said at the very beginning of this article about fishing in shallow reservoirs (fishing depth up to 2 meters) without a current or with a quiet current at a short distance from the shore.

Summer float rod for a beginner, let’s summarize the first part

• folding telescopic fishing rod, length 4-5 meters,
• two spools of fishing line, the first 0.12 mm, the second 0.15 mm,
• two floats - a goose feather float and an inexpensive model of a spindle float.

What else is missing? There was no talk about sinkers, hooks, or reels. It was not said how to put it all together and how to set it up. And also, I didn’t write a word about which fishing rod is better to fish with or without a reel. Read about this in the following notes:

• “How to fish with a float rod” is the second part;
• "How to fish with a float rod and reel" - the third part.

Before going fishing, every fisherman needs to properly prepare his gear. That is, choose the rod that will be most convenient for catching crucian carp in a particular body of water, install the equipment, attach a fishing line, sinker, float, etc. In general, make sure that the fishing rod becomes a faithful and reliable assistant, with which you will always return home with a good catch.

A correctly selected and assembled fishing rod will allow you not to be left without a catch.

Types of float rods for crucian carp

Let's start in order. First of all, to catch crucian carp you will need a fishing rod. Since this fish is most often caught with, we will look at this particular tackle in detail. Today there are 4 types of rods available for it:

• flight feathers;
• plug;
• match;
• Bolognese.

The most common. Equipped with a telescopic structure, this rod (length from 3.5 to 7 m) has a miniature connector at its end. This is a kind of plastic fastener to which the fishing line is attached. It turns out that all the equipment exists separately from the fishing rod and is wound onto the reel, and not onto the reel.

A fly rod is perfect for fishing for crucian carp

Flying rods are made of carbon fiber or composite materials. Due to this, such a rod is easy to hold even with one hand. The absence of a reel on such gear can be assessed in different ways. On the one hand, the length of the equipment is limited. It cannot be larger than the fishing rod itself - otherwise you simply will not be able to cast. Therefore, fly tackle is more likely intended for fishing in small bodies of water or where significant depth begins right off the shore.

However, due to the absence of a reel, the fly rod also gains some advantage. A snag or breakage of the equipment is not so terrible for her. It is enough to prepare several options for gear in advance and store them on the reel. Just a couple of minutes - and you will attach the finished line with a float, weights and hooks to the tip of the rod.

Reminds me of a flywheel. It only has a length of more than 10-12 m. It allows you to make accurate (and silent!) casting over long distances, as well as use lighter equipment. A plug rod consists of several sections that can be added or, conversely, removed, depending on the characteristics of a particular reservoir. For catching crucian carp, such gear is used quite rarely. The fact is that this fish mainly bites near the shore. However, a plug fishing rod is quite effective for autumn fishing, when crucian carp gradually move to deeper water areas.

Less commonly, crucian carp are caught using a plug fishing rod.

Bolognese fishing rod

The most versatile tackle for catching crucian carp. This is a telescopic rod with rings and spinning coil. Making long casts with such gear is not a problem. You can fish with a “blind” rig or with a sliding float. If there is no need to fish at a great distance from the shore, then the Bolognese fishing rod can quickly be converted into gear like a fly rod. So with this rod you can cast the bait at a distance of 5, 10, 15 or 30 m from the shore. The only caveat is that assembling such gear is not the most budget-friendly activity.

Similar in design to Bolognese fishing rods and match fishing rods. They are even more reminiscent of a spinning rod: short length (3-4.5 m), plug-in design, and many rather voluminous passage rings. Naturally, to fish with such a fishing rod you will also need a spinning reel.

“Match” is a fairly effective tackle. With its help, you can fish remote areas and successfully land quite large fish. However, the match fishing rod is not very popular, and the feeder is increasingly preferred to it. The fact is that it is not always possible to see a bite - a float jumping along the waves at a decent distance from the shore is not so informative. Fishing with a feeder is simpler in this regard - a bell or electronic alarm will always indicate the fish’s interest in the bait.

Match fishing rods for crucian carp fishing can sometimes be ineffective

We equip tackle for catching crucian carp

Having understood the types of rods that are suitable for fishing for this lake fish, let’s move on to the more difficult part. This is a snap. This simple term is usually understood as the totality of all objects attached to the fishing line. That is, this is a float, sinkers, hooks, habits, etc. Installation of all these fishing accessories doing it yourself is not an easy task, especially for a beginner. After all, whether the fishing will be successful depends on how correctly you assemble the gear.

Of course, fishing stores often have ready-made equipment for sale. For example, for a fly rod. It is not recommended to purchase such gear made by someone else. As a rule, it is not going to be the most in the best possible way and not made from the highest quality ingredients. Therefore, it is best to install the float rod yourself.

Let's immediately discuss one more point. Many novice fishermen ask about which reel is best suited for float tackle? If you plan to fish from the shore and not use long casting, then you can install any reel. There is no point in spending money on expensive inertia-free models. The main thing is that it copes with the main task - winding and unwinding fishing line.

Having chosen a suitable fishing rod, it is important to choose the right equipment for it and assemble it correctly

In general, fly rods are more suitable for catching crucian carp from the shore. Thanks to the absence of a reel, the tackle becomes lighter, and the number of line tangles or overlaps is reduced. It makes it more convenient to fish in bushes and overgrown places.

fishing line

To install any gear you will need a fishing line. There is no point in skimping on this important component of any fishing rod. Fishing line from well-known manufacturers is of higher quality, more reliable and less susceptible to deformation. The thickness must be selected depending on the fishing conditions and the size of the fish you are going to catch. As a rule, it varies from 0.1 to 0.18 mm.

If you fish with match gear, be sure to purchase a sinking type fishing line. Ordinary fishing line will not be able to protect the equipment from the effects of wind and surface current. As a result, the float will constantly drift to the side. Do not forget that the fishing line must match the color of the water, which in reservoirs where crucian carp live is most often quite cloudy and dark. Therefore, it is best to use a fishing line of brown or gray color, which will still be invisible on the muddy bottom.

The thickness and color of the fishing line is selected depending on the size of the crucian carp and its habitat

Float and tackle loading

Next important element equipment - float. It should be informative, and its fluctuations should be noticeable to the fisherman on any water surface. Light floats weighing up to 2-3 grams, equipped with a long antenna, are well suited for catching crucian carp. If you use heavier bite alarms, the fish may feel the resistance of the rig and drop the bait.

The floats are attached to the fishing line using special “ears” on it and rubber cambrics. If sliding equipment is made, then the role of fastening is performed by a carabiner and a coupling, which freely “runs” along the fishing line from one stopper to another. It is best to use sliding floats at a depth of more than 2 m and for more experienced fishermen. For beginners, we recommend fishing with a simple blind rig.

Now it’s time to start loading the float correctly. To do this you need to purchase sinkers. As a rule, one small pellet (about 25-30% of the total load) is placed below the float, the rest are fixed at the junction of the leads. If there are several weights, then it is best to place them at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. When fishing with a fishing rod with a float weighing about 1 gram. you can limit yourself to one small pellet, which is about 2-3 times lighter than this floating bite alarm.

The amount of loading will depend on the float chosen

Sometimes the equipment for crucian carp may not have sinkers at all. Most often, this option is used when fishing takes place at shallow depths and grassy shallows. In reservoirs with completely stagnant water, where there are no undercurrents or springs, you can also use equipment without sinkers. Especially in hot weather and calm weather, when crucian carp are very careful and picky.

Hooks and leashes

The fishing rod is almost ready. All that remains is to properly tie the leashes and hooks. It is not difficult. The fishing line for leashes is thinner than the main one. The leashes are secured using a swivel or a loop-to-loop connection. As a rule, a fishing rod for crucian carp is designed with two leashes. Therefore they must be different lengths. This will reduce the amount of line tangling. If the thickness of the main line is 0.1-0.14 mm, then you can fish without leashes at all. Especially if these are plug-in or fly-type fishing rods.

Hooks for crucian carp should be selected to match the bait itself. If you fish with bloodworms or dough, this means you need to use the smallest size. If you fish with a worm, it is better to choose a hook with a longer shank and hook. According to the international classification, hooks of sizes from No. 12 to No. 8 are most often used for catching crucian carp.

How to assemble a fishing rod for crucian carp - you can find out by watching the video:

Waking up on a beautiful summer morning, the thought comes to you that you should go and catch a mammoth? Don’t be scared - this is the ancient instinct of a hunter, inherent in people at the genetic level, speaking in you. Sometimes a trip to the nearest store and grabbing three liters of beer helps to quench the burning desire. If such an event did not help, then you have a direct path to the ranks of the multi-million army of hunters and fishermen.

4. A set of special rubber stoppers for the float ($0.3-0.6).

5. Sliding float for loading 2.0-3.5 grams of lead ($2).

6. A set of lead pellets of different weights ($1-2).

7. Several small swivels and snap hooks ($0.05 each).

8. A set of universal single hooks in the range from No. 2.5 to No. 5 ($1-2).

It is also worth taking care of spare components (float, hooks, swivels, stoppers, sinkers), since their loss in the process is inevitable.

Experienced fishing enthusiasts may reproach me for giving a very incorrect description. components float rod. And they will be absolutely right. When selecting, I did not take into account many conditions: type of fish, fishing methods, characteristics of the reservoir, etc.

Think, should be simple and universal, and a description of nuances such as “how to make a fishing rod so that during the spawning season in a prohibited place with a north-west wind and not be caught by the fisheries inspection” can confuse an uninitiated person even more.

How to assemble a fishing rod correctly

Be careful. If due to an error you have to redo the tackle, then some components may be irretrievably lost. For example, the rubber stopper cannot be reinstalled on the fishing line.

Follow the specified assembly sequence and you will be happy:

• tie one end of the main line to the spool of the reel and, turning the handle, wind 50 meters on it;
• install the reel on the rod. The standard fastening on inexpensive products is a blind stop-tack, a movable stop-tack and a locking nut. Having unscrewed the nut to the required distance, move the moveable stop, insert the coil between the stops and securely tighten the nut by hand;
• thread the main line through the rod guides. Make sure that the line is passed under the reel's catch bracket;
• install the float stop on the main line. Each rubber stopper sits on a separate metal wire. It is necessary to thread the end of the fishing line into the steel loop and move the stopper onto it. By moving it along the fishing line, you can change the depth of lowering the hook with the nozzle while fishing;
• install a snap hook for the float, passing the main fishing line through its eye. You can do without this element by threading the fishing line into the ring on the bottom of the float antenna. The bite alarm will slide freely up the line until it reaches the rubber stop. But without a snap hook you won't be able to change the floats;
• install the lower float stop. The steps are the same as when installing the top stop;

• tie a swivel to the main line. I use a simple and at the same time reliable knot (see picture). Before tightening, wet the knot with water or saliva - it will be stronger;
• unload the float by placing lead pellets on the main line. It is better to use several small weights than one large one. Secure them between the lower stopper and the swivel at a distance of 7-10 centimeters from each other. A small part of the float with the antenna should protrude above the water;

• make a leash with a hook. Without cutting, unwind 20 centimeters of the leader line and tie the hook (see picture). Cut 25-30 centimeters of fishing line with a hook attached. At the other end, make a regular blind loop. Do not forget to wet the line knots before tightening;
• pass the loop into the free ring of the swivel, pass the other end of the leash with the hook through it and tighten the structure. The tackle is ready.

In conclusion. You can, of course, make a fishing rod yourself from scrap materials, including a shovel handle, rope, wine stopper, a nut and a bent nail are quite suitable for these purposes. Ancient fishermen. However, since then the fish has become more capricious, and paying attention to antediluvian designs is now disgusting to its refined taste. So don't worry and good luck with your fishing!

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There is nothing complicated about properly equipping a float rod, and in the previous guide we discussed this issue in some detail.

Let us remember once again how to properly equip a fishing rod with a float with a blind rig:

The structure of a float rod is described in the following step-by-step guide to equipping the rod with fishing line, floats, sinkers, a leash and a hook.

1. Attaching the fishing line to the float rod

There may be two options:

• you have a fishing rod with rings;
• You have a float fly fishing rod without rings, only at the tip there is a special mount.

In the first case, you need to attach a reel to the fishing rod, wind the fishing line around the reel and, starting from the ring closest to the reel, insert the fishing line into all the rings, bringing it out through the last smallest ring at the tip.

If you have a fishing rod without rings, then there must be a special mount at the tip of the rod. It is glued to the tip of the rod using super glue. Then, at the end of the main fishing line, this loop is made and put on the mount, closing it with a special stopper.

2. Equipping a float rod with a float

If you are using a fishing rod without rings, then you need to understand that the length of the fishing line should be equal to the length of the rod, or exceed it by a maximum of half a meter. It is this amount of fishing line that makes it easy to cast and easily pull out equipment or fish directly into your hand.

How to attach a float with a ring at the top to a fishing line

• First, insert the fishing line into the ring with bottom side up.
• You put a special rubber cambric on the fishing line, which you should have bought in the store (perhaps it was included with the float, and they also often come in sets of lead pellets, which we will also need to equip the float fishing rod).
• And you insert bottom part float (keel) into a rubber cambric, as shown in the figure at the beginning of the article.

How to attach a float without a ring to a fishing line

There are also floats that do not have a ring. Cambric alone is no longer enough here. You will have to use two (we put both on the fishing line and insert the ends of the float into them - the tip and the lower keel). The tip is often larger in size, so the cambric must be selected according to its diameter.

Try not to get too shallow with the cambrics; when you change the working depth of your equipment (move the float along the line), the cambrics wear out and tear. Therefore, it is important to use elastic bands that are not very narrow.

An alternative version of the equipment for those who do not use cambrics, but prefer stoppers. Very simple and convenient.

3. Correct loading of the float

Some people call this a float load, although in fact it is actually called a load. You need to attach lead pellets to the fishing line so that only the upper part of the float (its tip) remains above the water.

If you have previously seen large floats in which most of the body sticks out of the water and anglers are trying to catch something on them, this is the wrong approach, unless the angler (or any other fish, in which case the sensitivity of the equipment does not play a role at all and it is important that the live bait does not greatly distort the movement of the float with its presence).

How to load a float on a pond

Sensitive loading occurs as follows. You attach a small lead pellet under the float using pliers, pliers, needle nose pliers (last with your teeth). Throw it into the water. If the body of the float is still visible above the water, you need to add more weights.

Be sure that the minimum depth is set, or that you are casting to a sufficient depth, the weights should be suspended and not fall to the bottom.

Load the line with lead pellets until only the tip of the float appears above the water, preferably so that the body is completely under water. This will provide the best sensitivity. Although it is acceptable to have a small portion of the body visible above the surface in windy conditions, this will reduce visual deception as the float passes through the waves.

If you loaded too much- use scissors, thin-nose pliers or forceps (teeth last, take care of the enamel) to pinch off a small piece of lead. Be careful not to damage the line.

How to load a float at home

Follow all the same steps, but use not water from a reservoir, but plastic bottle 1.5 or 2 liters. Well, lower the float as close as possible to the lead pellets so that they do not lie at the bottom of the bottle when determining the additional load.

Over 7 years of active fishing, I have found dozens of ways to improve the bite. Here are the most effective ones:

1. Bite activator. This pheromone additive attracts fish most strongly in cold and warm water. Discussion of the bite activator “Hungry Fish”.
2. Promotion gear sensitivity. Read the appropriate manuals for your specific type of gear.
3. Lures based pheromones.

4. Leash attachment

A leash is an essential component of a float rod. It serves faithfully in the following ways:

During the hook, the thinner line of the leader will break first and you will be able to save the rig with a float and lead pellets. To restore, you only have to tie a new leash with a hook.

The fish is afraid of a thick fishing line, but it almost doesn’t even notice a thin line and bites the bait much more actively.

We recommend using fluorocarbon lines for tying leashes. Actually, this material was made specifically as a leash. Fluorocarbon is much more expensive than fishing line from, but stores sell reels of 5, 10, 15, 25, 50 m. This will significantly reduce the spending of the fishing budget, and even a 10-meter reel will be enough for almost the entire season, because only 25 are spent on one leash mm fishing line.

How to tie a leash with fishing line

The easiest way is to use the same one, although there are other knots for tying leashes, nevertheless, the figure eight is quite suitable and the strength of the knot is excellent.

The length of the leash after tying and attaching the hook should be around 15 cm, so initially take a piece 25 cm long.

5. How to properly tie a hook to a fishing line

There are a few simple ways tying hooks to the main line:

At this point, equipping the fishing rod with a float, weights, leash and hook is completed, you can begin feeding and fishing.