Preparing plastic skis for skating. Basic ski training. Competition ski priming

Every fan wants to extend the life of their favorite skis winter species sports In order to extend the service life of cross-country skis for more than one year, it is important to properly and competently care for them.

What does the concept of “cross-country ski care” include? Let's figure it out.

Maintenance is based on the same principle as: we use it correctly, store and transport it in special cases, monitor the condition of the sliding surface and process it in a timely manner. True, you will have to use lubricants more often here.

Preparing new cross-country skis

The initial processing of cross-country skis after purchase occurs according to the following scheme:

remove the layer of ground paraffin;
processing sliding surface hard fibertex;
apply paraffin and distribute it evenly with a special iron in the direction from toe to heel, without delay;
remove excess paraffin with a scraper;
treat the surface with brushes.

Further care will include preservation for the summer (cleaning and paraffin) and periodic lubrication. This is if you bought cross-country skiing without notches. Models with notches do not require lubrication.

Treatment of cross-country skis - ointments

With lubricated skis (without notches), the situation is more complicated. Each weather has its own types of lubricant. Conditions of use, temperature conditions and method of application are indicated on the boxes. It is important to follow the instructions carefully. For most fans, it is enough to treat their skis once a month or when there is a sudden change in weather. Professionals do this before every race.

It is worth mentioning separately that ski waxes There are 2 types - sliding ointments and holding ointments for classic models (prevent kickback and slipping). Skate cross-country skis are treated with gliding ointments entirely, in the direction from toe to heel. Holding ointments are applied to classic skis only in the middle part - to an area approximately 65-75 cm long under the bindings. For front and rear parts use a slip ointment.

Holding ointments can be either liquid or solid. Solid ointments must be removed from the jar and foil and rubbed onto the holding area on cross-country skis. Next, the ointment is ground with a synthetic rubbing agent to a thin, even layer. It is better to apply several thin layers rather than 1-2 thick ones.

Liquid ointments should be squeezed out of the tube on both sides of the groove, and then leveled with a scraper or thumb hands. Next, the layer is again rubbed with synthetic rubbing until smooth. In the case of liquid ointments, a thick layer is preferable.

To remove old grease, special solvent removers are required. First, remove the old ointment with a scraper, then remove the residue with a generously moistened paper napkin.

Proper ski care is a guarantee of comfortable skiing, as well as your safety and the durability of your equipment.

This wonderful sports instrument gained mass popularity more than a hundred years ago. Of course, modern models are very different from their predecessors in length, width, and production quality. But no matter how good the projectile is, it needs special care for standard functionality. Therefore, preparing new cross-country skis is one of the essential elements for both professionals and beginners. Simply picking up a product from a store counter is not enough. If you immediately start intensive use, it will quickly become unusable. In addition, its capabilities will be far from stated.

Training fees for competitions

Do not think that all this technique is necessary only for athletes high level, when at least the national cup is at stake. No, a beginner, an amateur, and a sports guru - everyone is involved in preventive measures to one degree or another. Of course, professionals who collect olympic gold, in most cases, do not engage in such activities on their own. They simply do not have enough time for this, they are focused on training.

But if we are talking about competitions at the local level, a city championship in which juniors are involved, small regional events or performances of various schools and universities, then the athlete must be a jack of all trades. And buy the product, carry out all the correct processing steps, and win the race.

It is worth understanding that these events largely depend on the style of passing the route. This can be downhill, freeride, classic or skating style races, even biathlon. And each requires its own instrument, and, accordingly, individual preparatory measures.

Types and features of skis

The species diversity is very extensive. Children's ones can be immediately excluded; in principle, they are not intended for serious sports, they are simplified to the maximum. Only professional or tourist models need to be prepared.

They, in turn, are divided into two main directions - cross-country and mountain. The first ones are usually divided into classic and skating. The latter have a much more extensive gradation, although for the most part they are also divided into two key areas. These are skycross and freeride. That is, high-speed launch or universal, for descending and crossing terrain along various trajectories.

How to prepare skis for skating

The main elements that you need to pay attention to are: surface, pattern and special lubricants. The drawing is applied by the manufacturer himself. Fine “pile” is suitable for hard snow, while coarse relief is intended for soft and melted snow.

But our task lies in the correct processing of the sliding zone itself. If this is done incorrectly, then as a result of increased friction an artificial obstacle to movement will be created. We'll have to spend more energy correct execution the running technique will be disrupted, the tool itself will be subject to increased wear, damage and structural damage are possible.

Cleaning and processing

This is a very labor-intensive and time-consuming procedure that needs to be approached as seriously as possible. In the process, due to negligence, you can even damage the equipment, so be careful and careful.

Algorithm of actions

For initial cleaning, brush over the surface. A rigid one with a brass base will suit us. If you don’t have one at hand, a steel one will do. Remember that you cannot make reverse movements, only forward ones. That is, we move our hand only in one direction, from toe to heel. Otherwise, the design may be damaged. It’s also not worth moving off the trajectory, strictly parallel actions that repeat the structure.

The second stage is priming. For this purpose, we will need primer paraffin, which must be applied in an even layer. Next we need temperature treatment so that it melts. Either a special iron or a regular household iron will do. But keep the temperature low, otherwise you may accidentally damage the equipment. Threshold – 150 degrees.

Now use a hard scraper along the entire length, breaking down and cleaning off the paraffin layer. Clean the central gutter too; for this you will need a thin stylus. Although, in principle, you can use any sufficiently thin object. Only without a sharp end, like a screwdriver. Remember to be careful.

Then, in order to get rid of the remaining primer, we will need a hard brush. But not with steel bristles, but with nylon bristles. There is no longer any need to work only through progressive movements and at a strict angle. No damage can be caused no matter how hard you try.

Main part. It consists of applying “warm” paraffin, which gives our sports instrument protective properties. It is applied using the same method as the previous one. Moreover, several layers are used. Remember that each new layer can only be applied at the moment when the previous one has already completely hardened. This will take 15-20 minutes.

The last stage is the removal of paraffin. Actually, the same thing we did after the primer. First we go through the scraper, and then move on to the brush. Carefully and methodically remove all residues.

Application of accelerators

There are several types of products, and the method of applying them has a number of key differences. Therefore, first select a specific one, and then move on to the method.

Solid

Preparing skis at home with its application is a fairly easy process. You can process the equipment only after you have finished working with paraffin and removed the residue. Rub the accelerator evenly over the entire surface, and then rub it in using a special thermal plug. Continue the procedure until you feel an increase in temperature due to friction. After this, let your result take hold, wait about half an hour or forty minutes. Then remove everything with a hard brush. Afterwards the process can be started again. For best result repeat the cycle 4-5 times.

Fluorocarbon powder

It should be used not after the base paraffin, but at the final stage. When you have finished waxing for a specific weather and type of snow.

In fact, you just need to sprinkle it on the surface. The layer should not be continuous; it is enough to cover approximately half of the total area. Next, use a sponge, roller or other object to level our powder over the entire area. AND last step– processed using temperature. Ironing through gauze will help again. The resulting accelerator must be removed no earlier than half an hour later.

Emulsions

This type is also applied at the final stage, like the previous one. You just need to rub the substance evenly and leave it alone for a few minutes. Usually 4-5 is enough. After this, we arm ourselves with the cork and begin to rub in with smooth movements. Don't apply too much pressure; the intensity is important, not the force. When the emulsion warms up, stop the process and wait about half an hour. And, accordingly, we delete it.

How to prepare classic skis

Unlike skating style, where paraffin needs to be applied tightly, covering even the pads, in this case we will need to apply protective substances and accelerators only to the sliding surface, and mainly to the toe and heel. After all, only straight movements are implied.

Treatment of the slip zone

We apply paraffin in the same way, grind it, heat it, and so on. The only question is where exactly to put our efforts. Actually, we need to determine the effective part - the one that will come into contact with the snow - near the toe and heel. But how do you know the specific range? There is no general standard. It depends on the hardness of the material and its elasticity. And also on the weight of the athlete.

Identifying the effective zone is quite simple - put on your skis, and then lock in upright position. All that remains is for a second person (whom you will prudently ask in advance for help) to insert a sheet of paper or cardboard, maybe even a cloth, under the lower surface of the sports instrument. And marked those parts where it does not touch the floor. Accordingly, we don’t need them.

Solid ointments

To fix such a substance tightly on a plane, first prime it. You will also need a base ointment - a primer. It is applied with simple movements, as if we were smearing glue on a sheet of paper. Apply evenly and smoothly, without accumulation areas, over the entire length of the effective part.

Next, use an iron to melt the layer and wait a few minutes until it hardens completely. Now we have a rough structure that will allow the solid ointment to be firmly fixed. It is applied in the same way, but without thermal effects. We just plug it with a cork.

Liquid ointments, klisters

The key difference here is the heating process. In exactly the same way, we place the primer klister as the first layer, and on top we apply the main one, for specific weather conditions. But without waiting and warming up with an iron. We will heat it with a hairdryer and do it all at once. At low temperature, about 5-10 minutes. Then wait for hardening for 7-8 minutes.

Cleaning the sliding surface

Cleaning is an important aspect of caring for your sports property. Ideally, this should be done once every 3-4 races or a couple of times per season. It is possible more often, but less often is not recommended.

To do this, we need basic paraffin, which is heated with an iron. After this, all debris and pollution rise above the level of the substance. And they can be easily removed with a scraper; it is most logical to use an acrylic one.

Brushing

Why is this necessary in principle? We told you that for better grip on snow, manufacturers apply a certain structure, the so-called pattern. These are small grooves that are easily filled with any strengthening or cleaning substance. And it is simply impossible to get it out of there with a scraper.

This is where stiff bristle brushes come in handy. But remember that with strong pressure we simply bend the bristles, and it begins to move parallel to the grooves, that is, it does not penetrate them. Therefore, cleaning must be carried out strictly at a right angle so that the lint penetrates into every recess.

After using a scraper, always brush thoroughly;

Take brass or steel, as well as nylon;

Secure the useful part with tape or paper, but not with tape;

It is better to use an iron for ointments, because a regular household appliance is difficult to regulate in terms of temperature accuracy.

Getting ready for competitions

This is not to say that amateurs will not need this information. No, anyone can use these methods. But, if amateurs can neglect them, then for serious performances you have to be fully armed.

Primer

The procedure is carried out in two stages. The first is working with soft paraffin; all technical details are described above. Apply, melt, remove. This process is necessary to get rid of debris and dirt. You can repeat the procedure a couple of times to be sure.

And in the second stage we rub in the middle layer, which will act as a primer. And here, too, we need several approaches. The bigger, the better. But don’t fall into fanaticism, 4-5 times is more than enough.

Considering the fact that it is in this aspect that beginners make the vast majority of mistakes that can become critical during serious races, we will give several detailed recommendations.

Temperature and its influence

It is worth knowing that too much heat is in principle unacceptable. 150 degrees Celsius is considered critical. But it’s better to stay at 100-120 degrees.

If you notice or smell smoke, stop working immediately. This means that the plastic is close to deformation, since the paraffin began to smoke.

You need to melt the substance from the middle towards the edges, and not from beginning to end. And be especially careful in areas where the thickness of the plastic is minimal. There is a very high risk of deformation and damage.

How can plugs and brushes heat up?

The key to success is intensity and changing the frequency of movements. Use alternately different degrees of speed of revolutions, and in addition, different application of force.

But even in this aspect, it is unacceptable to be overzealous. If you feel that when you put your hand on the plastic, you simply cannot hold it for a long time due to the heat, you should stop.

Cycling

This is the process of flattening the plastic. We will need it in cases where, due to oxidation or improper use, the surface has already been completely deformed or oxidized. In this case, only scraping will help. Scraping and removing the plastic layer using a scraper.

Remember that we are also removing the structural pattern, so it will need to be reapplied by hand.

How to properly prepare skis at home, video

To conclude our review, we will provide some basic tips that will be of interest to beginners who are not familiar with all the tricks of caring for winter sports equipment.

If you don't ride often, you can use inexpensive quick-drying lubricants. They do not require heat treatment; they harden on their own in just five minutes. True, the duration of the effect is greatly reduced, only 5-6 kilometers.

It's not just the ability to glide that's important when skating. It is worth checking the fastenings, removing debris and possible rust.

When choosing a substance, remember your goal. If you participate in competitions, then the choice of accelerators will be justified. And if you are going for a walk, this is clearly unnecessary.

The first couple of weeks after purchase, the product may retain factory fluff. If you do not remove it yourself, it will slightly, but still reduce the efficiency of sliding.

For winter active rest On the street, it makes sense to take care not only of equipment, but also of warm clothes. The Stayer brand offers suits that make playing sports comfortable, dry and not cold.

Conclusion

It is not only equipment that has been used for a long time that needs care. Preparation of skis after purchase is no less important. Remember that for better effect You should take care of your property at all stages and during all periods. If you start care only on the eve of the competition, then the overall functionality will be at a very low level.

The ongoing “cycle or paraffin” debate will never go away. Adherents of either method of preparing the sliding surface of skis (SSL) have the right to their own opinion, confirmed by successful experience. This article is dedicated to “paraffin specialists”.

Purpose of basic processing - create conditions under which the sliding surface of skis acquires adhesive, electrostatic and chemically active properties designed to effectively retain lubricant and reject dirt. This treatment has a significant impact on the gliding process of the ski in any conditions.

We will need: ski profile, iron, set of brushes (bronze, steel, hard nylon), plastic scraper, groove scraper, non-synthetic fabric (fiberlin), set of paraffins (BW, BWG, BWLF - Start or analogues).

Sequence of actions for basic ski processing

is described below, we perform each point first with one, then with the other ski and move on to the next one:

1. Go 20-25 times from toe to heel with a brass brush with light pressure, then 5-7 times with a steel brush. The use of a steel brush after a brass brush is always necessary (we will do this further in the text without additional reminder). The purpose of the first point is to remove the transport lubricant; it can be in the form of a film rather than paraffin. If there is a layer of paraffin, use a scraper first.

2. Walk 10-15 times from toe to heel with a steel brush. The goal is to remove the smallest particles from the pores of the joint venture and open the structure from old plastic fibers. In principle, such a ski will perform quite well. But not in all conditions.

3. Using Base Wax paraffin (or any low-melting option) at an iron temperature of about 85-90 degrees. pour in SPL, level and remove while hot without pressing hard on the plastic scraper so as not to damage the surface. Repeat 2-3 times until the color of the removed paraffin is free of dirty spots. Do not let the ski cool down. The goal is to extract small particles from the pores of the plastic. Apply BW again and melt with an iron. As the paraffin is absorbed, add new one. Duration - about 10-15 minutes, without allowing the ski to cool down. The goal is to absorb paraffin deep into the SP to close the pores and effectively retain the racing wax in the future. At the end, coat the ski again with paraffin, melt it and leave to cool.

4. Remove BW paraffin. To do this, remove the paraffin from the groove. Next, use a scraper at an angle of 45 degrees. to the surface (acute angle - from the side of the heel) without strong pressure, move from toe to heel. Continue until the paraffin is removed. Next, clean first with a nylon brush until the dust disappears (20-30 passes), then several passes with a brass brush (4-5).

5. Set the iron temperature to about 135-140 degrees. Cover the SPL with Base Wax Graphite paraffin, similar to step 3. Do not cover the transparent part of the ski tip with BWG! The goal is to close the pores with a graphite composition to impart antistatic properties to the SPL and create a barrier to prevent dirt from penetrating into the plastic. It should be taken into account that this paraffin is very fragile and refractory, so you need to touch the iron and SPL with the bar more often, melt it in several passes, without holding the iron in one place. After completely covering the SPL with paraffin, remove it with a scraper after 20-30 seconds, clean it with a brass brush and cover it again with BWG. Repeat again - 3 times in total. Last time ends with cleaning with a brass brush SPL. Allow the ski to cool. Finally clean the SPL until the gray spots disappear with a brass brush.

6. Clean the SPL with a brass brush - 10-15 movements along the ski from toe to heel. Wipe the joint with a clean non-synthetic cloth (fiberlene).

7. Apply Base Wax Low Fluoro - base low fluoride paraffin. Iron temperature - 130-135 degrees. Apply to SPL, melt, let cool to room temperature. Remove with a scraper, clean with brass (5-7 times), then nylon (20-30 times) brushes. Repeat 2 more times, 3 in total.

8. Apply basic purple (for upcoming heat) or blue (for cold) paraffin to the joint.

Basic training skiing is finished. The SPL should have a thick black, greasy, glossy tint. This operation should take 2.5-3 hours for one pair of skis. For classics, the block is not processed!

The effectiveness of the technique has been proven by practice at all distances, especially at long distances and in abrasive, abrasive snow - paraffin lasts longer. SPL remains “fresh” with proper processing throughout the season.

Cleaning your skis before every race.

Remove the soil with a scraper, then with a nylon brush. Swipe 3-5 times with a brass brush from toe to heel, remove dust with fiberlen. Swipe 3-4 times with a steel brush from toe to heel. Between cleanings, wipe the joint with a clean cloth to remove dust.

Apply a weather-resistant fluoride-free primer or graphite. For aggressive snow - +1 more layer. The goal is to ensure that the paraffin is abraded in layers. Experience has shown that this is how paraffin holds best. After applying the next layer, let the ski cool, remove the paraffin with a scraper, and polish with a nylon brush until shiny. Apply the next layer, melt with an iron. Allow the ski to cool. Next - repeat.

Ski cleaning after every race.

Thoroughly clean the ski with a brass brush - 10-15 passes from toe to heel until a velvety color appears. Remove dust from the SP with a clean piece of cloth. Go from toe to heel 3-5 times with a steel brush. The goal is to clean the joint venture from dirt and solid particles.

Generously lubricate the joint with BW paraffin and melt with an iron. When hot (creamy), remove the paraffin with a scraper. Repeat the operation until the paraffin is removed clean, without dirt. Apply and melt BW again, let it cool, remove with a scraper, polish with a nylon brush, then brass (3-5 passes) and steel (2-4 passes). The goal is to remove old grease and dirt from the pores of the plastic.

Apply purple or blue primer, melt it, let the ski cool, and put it in the case. The goal is to close the joint venture from exposure to air and dust.

*** Based on materials from the magazine “Skiing”.

How to choose skis for skating and not make a mistake? Choosing skis is not the easiest task, especially for beginners. Purchasing this sports equipment requires a competent, responsible and balanced approach.

How to choose skis for skating for a beginner?

The first difficulties may arise directly when determining products that fall into the running category. Often this type includes models that differ in structure from alpine skiing. At the same time, a beginner has absolutely no need for professional skating skis, at least based on their high cost.

A person who is just starting to ski, first of all needs to decide on an affordable price category. The cost of individual models of skating skis can range from $30 to $350. And even with a special wallet size, the most expensive models from reputable global manufacturers are not always the ideal solution.

Which skis are best for skating? The optimal solution for beginners may be cross-country skiing for skating. domestic production. Firstly, the average quality of such models allows you to feel the whole range of positive emotions from skiing, and secondly, their cost is so affordable that you can use such skis sparingly, in almost any conditions.

To others important issue for a beginner it is the selection of cross-country skis based on technical parameters: length, level of rigidity, structural strength. It is these characteristics that are decisive when choosing any models.

The optimal length of skis for skating can be determined according to the classic calculation formula. To do this, you need to add 25-30 cm to the skier’s height, which will be an indicator of the appropriate length.

As for the stiffness of the skis, here it is necessary to focus on the weight of the skier. Under a too heavy rider, soft models will certainly sag, causing a whole lot of inconvenience. If the skier's weight is low, equipment that is too rigid will slip with a rather unpleasant recoil. To determine the optimal level of rigidity, just stand on your skis with your full weight, after placing a thick sheet of paper under the binding area. A sufficient rigidity indicator is considered if the sheet can be moved under the sliding surface over a distance of about 30-40 cm in both directions without much difficulty.

The majority of buyers prefer to immediately purchase expensive skating skis for entry-level skiing, hoping for a comfortable feeling while riding based on the authority of a recognizable manufacturer. However, the reliability and high quality of expensive skis are justified by the need to achieve maximum speeds on the ski track. It is unlikely that a novice amateur will immediately be able to ride at such speeds using correct technique ride. Therefore, spend money on purchasing professional model There is no point in skiing for a person without much experience.

Manufacturing materials

When carrying out such a procedure as choosing skis for skating, an important issue for most beginners remains the selection of suitable material. Many of us have not yet forgotten the good old wooden models of Soviet-made cross-country skis, for which there was practically no alternative at one time. Therefore, some sports fans find it extremely difficult to accept the need to switch to modern plastic models. The main reason here is not the ossification of perception, but rather the lack of information about the features of using such equipment.

Plastic skis for skating are not as simple as they might seem at first glance. Using such a model without proper preparation and maintenance, you can feel discomfort, convincing yourself of a bad purchase already in the first meters of the track.

In fact, plastic has improved sliding properties compared to wood. Therefore, when choosing plastic cross-country skis, you need to be prepared for the need to regularly lubricate the sliding surface of the product, selecting suitable compounds based on weather conditions and the nature of the terrain.

Plastic models of cross-country skis are much stronger than wooden ones and, accordingly, have increased level reliability. And if the owners of the former begin to cover their favorite equipment with the appearance of positive indicators on the thermometer, then the happy owners of plastic analogues usually enjoy the continuation of the season for some time.

How to choose skating skis for your riding style?

One of the determining factors when selecting skis is whether the chosen model matches your skiing style. It is recommended to consider individual features and configuration of skis based on the nature of the future use of the purchased pair.

The selection of skis for skating should be carried out based on the characteristics of the riding style itself, which is characterized by the need to perform sweeping movements in the so-called “herringbone”.

The main difference between classic skis and models for skating are the features of their lubrication. To achieve the most uniform gliding, the surface of skate skis is treated with primers in the form of holding ointments, lubricated with paraffin along the entire length, and additionally treated with special gliding lubricants. At the same time, such processing is unacceptable for classic ski models, the sliding surface of which, on the contrary, is sanded to achieve greater grip, after which it is coated with a holding lubricant.

To select skating skis that will be used for skiing running style, you need to pay attention to the most durable products that can withstand significant loads.

In general, experts recommend purchasing several sets of skis for traditional, skating and cross-country skiing. It is this solution that will allow you to avoid difficulties and discomfort, having the opportunity to switch from one move to another.

Ski boots

The most important process, along with the direct choice of cross-country skis, is the selection of a whole range of necessary accessories: bindings, boots, poles, etc. Innovative models of ski boots are not just special shoes for comfortable connection with skis, but also products that can protect feet from certain stresses and maintain heat balance.

In the production of modern ski boots, the anatomical features of skiers' feet and natural hygiene requirements are taken into account. Selecting high-quality, reliable boots is the key to a comfortable, successful ride. A responsible approach to the selection of boots eliminates the need to be distracted by all sorts of inconveniences in the form of pinched toes or wet feet.

Currently, there are several main categories of ski boots:

Classic models - traditionally used on ski models that are used for classic skiing.
Skating boots - the structure and functionality of this equipment corresponds to the characteristics of skating.
Combined models - can be used for riding in different styles, thanks to the presence of a convenient removable cuff.

Fastenings

When choosing skis for skating, you need to think about choosing suitable bindings. Today there are standard and profile types of fastenings.

Standard fastenings involve connection to boots using holes for which there are connectors on the sole of special boots. Such fastenings also have protrusions, due to which, in fact, the ski boots are securely fixed.

Profile systems have rubber elements of varying hardness, which ensures high repulsion efficiency when running. There are several separate fastening options for profile boots - NNN and SNS. The difference between these types of profile fastenings lies in the number of recesses. There are two of them in NNN format mounts, but only one in SNS format mounts.

Ski poles

Picking up best skis for skating, you should pay attention to the choice of the most comfortable, effective poles. The choice of poles largely depends on your riding style. Classic style The most appropriate choice for riding is the choice of poles, the length of which reaches the armpits, and for “skating” it is recommended to select poles up to the shoulder height.

The ideal solution can be considered the selection of poles with an anatomically adjusted lanyard and large paws. The presence of these characteristics makes it possible to ride for a long time, practically without feeling fatigue or discomfort in the hands.

How to prepare skis for skating?

Preparing skis for skating involves first of all creating a sliding surface structure that best matches the nature of the snow. To do this, the outer surface of the skis is treated with special substances in the form of ointments and paraffin, which are selected based on weather conditions.

First of all, a solid grip ointment is applied to the sliding surface of the skis. The procedure is carried out in the following order:

the outer plane of the skis is treated with sandpaper, which improves traction due to raising the pile;
a heated primer ointment is applied with a consistency that best suits the weather conditions;
the ointment is smoothed with an iron at medium temperature;
After hardening, subsequent layers of ointment are applied in the holding area and leveled with synthetic cork.

Applying paraffin to the surface of skis

If sufficiently soft paraffin is available, lubrication of skating skis can be done by applying it cold to the sliding surface. If skis are processed using hard paraffin, then they resort to heating the lubricant with an iron. Alternatively, lubrication of skating skis can be done by briefly heating a block of paraffin wax and then applying smooth strokes to the skis.

Apply such an amount of paraffin to the ski that the molten lubricant spreads evenly over the entire sliding surface, and the layer of the substance should be no more than 1 mm. It is leveled with the same hot iron.

Preparing skis for skating by applying lubricant in the form of paraffin heated with an iron is the most dangerous procedure. If the operation is not carried out carefully, there is a high probability of overheating, deformation and burning of high molecular weight plastic. Therefore, when applying paraffin, it is strongly recommended to set the iron temperature to the lowest possible temperature at which the existing paraffin can melt.

It is necessary to move the iron along the sliding surface of the skis smoothly and without delay. In this case, there must be a layer of paraffin between the plastic and the sole of the iron, because plastic quickly combusts if there is direct contact with the heated surface of the iron. Based on this, you should not save on paraffin consumption, as this often leads to more serious material losses in the form of damage to equipment.

Cleaning the ski surface with special brushes

In cases where the entire length of skating skis is machined on special grinding machines, the formation of a complex large or small surface microstructure becomes possible. This treatment promotes optimal removal of liquid and air when the ski comes into contact with snow, which ensures the best glide.

After removing the remnants of old paraffin using scrapers, with the arrival of the new season, quite a few small grooves remain filled with lubricant. To restore the original structure of the ski surface, paraffin residues should be removed with rotary or hand brushes. The most effective may be the use of hard metal or nylon brushes, which have fine bristles.

When cleaning paraffin from the sliding surface with brushes, it is not recommended to be too zealous when carrying out sudden movements or excessive pressure so as not to damage the plastic structure. The bristles of metal and nylon brushes most effectively remove paraffin residues when they are placed at right angles to the surface being treated.

To apply the base layer in the form of a priming ointment, it is better to use a special iron, since most irons for ironing clothes do not allow you to set the optimal temperature.
Holding the heated sole of the iron on one point on the ski surface, unfortunately, often leads to burning and deformation of the plastic.
Before applying gliding ointment when preparing skis for skiing, you should activate the surface by brushing it once again with a brush.
When preparing skis for skiing in cold weather, it is better to resort to creating a fine structure of the sliding surface, and in warm weather, use a large surface texture.
When preparing a sliding surface, the use of the trial and error method is of great importance. In other words, it's worth trying personal experience different combinations of lubricants under different weather conditions.
Before you need to store skis for a long time, you should not clean off the old paraffin, which will act as protection for the sliding surface in the off-season.
It is recommended to initially take extreme care of your skis, because only in this case can you hope for their long service life and maximum enjoyment while skiing.

Whatever the level of the skier - from an amateur exploring self-made ski tracks in suburban forests to a super-professional participant Olympic Games, absolutely everyone is concerned about the same question: how to improve the glide of your skis? This material is certainly not for professionals, since most often they have special teams servicemen, and not infrequently, they themselves are quite experienced people in this matter. This material is for ski lovers who have not yet thoroughly grasped the magical process of preparation and want to master it. We sincerely hope that you will find useful information here and highlight something new.

Our article for the following groups of skiers:

Those who ride infrequently, on prepared or “wild” trails. These are amateur skiers who do not (or rarely take) part in sports competitions, but want to get more speed from sliding.
Recreational skiers who train regularly to maintain and improve physical fitness, performing at amateur level competitions. This also includes young skiers from sports schools, level - up to youths.

Everyone who is “higher, faster, stronger” - welcome to the professionals, into their reliable hands, who, using special machines, will apply the necessary structure to the skis and make such a “sandwich” from layers of lubricant that it will not be a ski - a rocket!

“Express lubricant” for ski glides.

Listed first for the reason that it does not require much explanation and is very easy to use. It is done using special tubes or containers with liquid or gel-like gliding ointment, which is squeezed through a dispensing nozzle directly onto the surface of the skis. No cleaning or removing old ointment. After spreading over the surface and waiting for absorption for about 2-5 minutes, vigorously rub in using a cork or fabric attachment, which often comes with the same tube or container.

When is it used?

The weather changed sharply: a cyclone arrived, wet snow began to fall, the temperature “jumped” from 0C to +5C, and you have the only pair of skis that were coated at 0C.
For amateur ski trips, when there is no need for super-speed and the skis just need to “slide” or to avoid snow sticking in warm weather.

"Pros"

Lubrication speed – 2 minutes per ski.
There is no need to have an additional tool.
If the ski stops sliding, the “express lubricant” layer has worn off, you can always easily and quickly apply a new one, if, of course, you have the opportunity to take a small container of lubricant with you.

"Minuses"

A layer of such lubricant is enough for 5-7 km maximum, because... its layer is very thin and technologies are used that do not allow the ointment to become firmly embedded in the surface of the ski. After 5 km, your skis will “stand up” and you will need to re-grease again. For competitions this is an extremely bad option; it is better to take several pairs of skis, oiled to take into account weather changes, if expected, and choose right before the start the pair that is suitable for the “starting” weather conditions.
“Express ointments” have a very wide range of applications, both in temperature and snow conditions. But this means that they will work in such “wide” ranges at a very average level, and will show very average gliding characteristics - compared to highly specialized ointments.

“Express lubricant” for different types of skis:

for “skate” skis - along the entire length.
for “classics” - lubricant is applied to the toe and heel areas, the area under the shoe last is not lubricated at all, or “holding” ointment is placed there.
skis with “notches” or special inserts (mohair, artificial fibers) under the boot last. You can smear it in the same way as the “classics”, i.e. – only the area of the toes and heels of the skis.

“Classical” ski lubrication technology.

When using this technology, you cannot avoid without using special tools:

Ski fixing machine. You can use either special machines adapted for this process, or simply a convenient mount with stands so that your ski rests with its entire upper surface on something solid during processing.
“Wash” to remove dirt and old ointment from the surface of skis. Buy only branded remover, because... “folk” creativity in the form of using various solvents gives unpredictable results.
A set of paraffins - “glide” and “hold” ointments. You need to have exactly those waxes that you will apply to your skis, depending on two conditions: a) air temperature, b) snow condition (fresh snow, old snow, etc.). The conditions for its use are always written on each package of paraffin. For amateurs, a set of three types of ointments will be enough: for air temperatures above zero; for the range from –2 to –8, and for the temperature range below –8-10 degrees C.
Most popular brands - Swix, Rex, Star, Rode, ToKo, Start, Holmenkol.
Iron. Only a special iron for lubricating skis. A distinctive feature from a household iron is its ability to maintain a constant temperature, which can be precisely regulated. There are “digital” versions, where the heating of the working surface is set with an accuracy of a degree.
Brushes: with metal bristles, with nylon hard and soft bristles. If you don’t want to have such an “arsenal,” you can buy one brush with medium nylon bristles.
Experienced lubricators often use special drills with lint attachments on one side and a comfortable handle on the other. Essentially, these are the same brushes, only they can significantly speed up the ski processing process.
A scraper made of plexiglass or metal for removing paraffin. There are scrapers of different thicknesses, but there is no fundamental difference in operation.
Special scraper for removing paraffin for the groove. There are special scrapers similar in shape to a marker. As a last resort, you can get by with a ballpoint pen or the same marker.
A piece of fibertex - non-woven nylon fiber with abrasive microparticles.

Before we tell you all the “secrets” of ski preparation, let’s dwell on the issue of differences in ointments.

Division of ointments by “types”

“Glide” ointments – to ensure that the ski glides well on the snow surface. Used for “skate” and “classic” skis.
“Holding” ointments – to prevent the ski from slipping back when pushing off the snow. Used in “classic” skis.
Accelerators (powders). Expensive and difficult to use. We do not recommend using them for amateurs without training.

Division by additive content:

Without additives. Budget ointments – for amateur sports and training.
With added fluorine: CH (fluorine-free), LF (low fluoride), HF (high fluoride). The latter are expensive, the former are the cheapest. Fluoride-containing ointments are used when there is high humidity and snow. The introduction of fluorine components into the composition significantly improves the speed characteristics and operating stability of the lubricant.
With the addition of graphite. Due to their antistatic properties, lubricants containing graphite often exhibit the best side either in dirty conditions or low humidity. They can reduce the accumulation of dirt on the sliding surface of the ski and in wet snow.

Ski preparation technology

Skate skis. Only “slip” paraffin is used, which is distributed over the entire surface of the skis.

1. Attach the ski to the machine. 2. Before you start manipulating with sliding paraffin, the surface of the skis must be cleaned. This is done with special washes, never with gasoline, household solvents, etc. It is recommended to clean “old” skis after 5-6 training races (or after 3-4 if the snow is dirty). It is recommended to clean “new” (from the store) skis before applying wax for the first time. 3. After washing and drying (5 minutes), we clean off any remaining dirt, first with a metal brush and then with a nylon brush. We clean the surface from toe to heel 10-15 times and remove the remains of old paraffin. 4. Turn on the iron and, after heating it, set the required temperature - the same as indicated on the paraffin packaging. When in contact with the iron, the sliding paraffin should melt easily, but at the same time not smoke during manipulation. 5. We begin to apply slip paraffin to the ski using an iron. There are two ways: when you do not have a limit on the amount of paraffin, then you lean a block of paraffin against the iron, it melts and begins to pour onto the surface of the ski. The second method, if you don’t have enough paraffin: you press a piece of paraffin to the iron, wait until the paraffin begins to melt and transfer the leaked paraffin, pressing the block to the ski. 6. When drops of paraffin are all over the surface of the ski, take an iron and distribute the paraffin in an even molten layer. The ointment should spread evenly over the ski, including along the edges. Be careful when running the iron along the toes and heels of the skis - the plastic there is thinner and these areas can easily overheat, resulting in delamination of the skis. 7. After applying and distributing the paraffin, it needs to cool for some time to room temperature. 8. We begin to remove excess paraffin. First - using a special tool - from the groove, and then using a scraper-cycle from the edges and from the sliding surface. You need to work the cycles at an angle of 30-40 degrees away from you, from the heel to the toe of the ski. 9. After complete removal of excess paraffin, the sliding surface must be treated with brushes. A wire brush is best for this. 10-15 movements with light pressure from heel to toe are more than enough. After working with a metal brush, the sliding surface of the ski should be polished with a nylon brush - also 10-15 movements. 10. The “basic” preparation of the ski sliding surface ends here. If you want higher quality preparation, then simply repeat the entire cycle of operations several times. For amateur starts, 3 times are enough; professionals “torment” the ski up to 10 times.

Classic skis.

Points 1,2,3,4 – similar.

ski boot

In very warm weather, melting, granular, dirty snow, it is quite difficult to choose a lubricant. Therefore, advice: if you have “warm” skis with a high content of graphite in the base, it is better to simply clean them with wash and brushes and ski without lubrication. If whitish areas appear on the ski, this is the result of the so-called “burn” - skiing on cold, grainy snow with insufficient or absent lubrication. Microfibers of polyethylene, raised by sharp snow crystals, form these very areas. Fibers can be removed with smooth and careful movements using fibertex.

At the end of the season, skis require conservation. Apply a thick layer of any soft paraffin to the entire sliding surface and leave it like that until next winter. Paraffin will prevent the base from oxidizing.