What kind of feeders to put on the feeder. Making carp rigs with your own hands. Selection of equipment depending on fishing conditions

Crucian carp is a fish of the carp family and lives almost everywhere throughout central Russia. Crucian carp feed on almost everything, from algae to worms and insects that have fallen into the water. The crucian carp that lives in the middle zone is usually medium-sized, but the crucian carp that lives in the lower reaches of the Volga sometimes reaches the size of a small carp. There are two varieties of crucian carp in the middle zone:

• Silver– not very large, covered with medium scales of light shades. Handles transportation well.
• Gold- slightly larger than silver scales, relatively large, yellow in shade. Does not tolerate transportation well.

Contents

Float tackle

(or “float rod”) is perhaps the most popular and sporting equipment for catching crucian carp. It consists of a rod, reel, fishing line, the float itself, a sinker and a hook with a nozzle.

Also read the guide on, which will come in handy when fishing with a float and other gear.

Feeder tackle

The feeder rod () should be selected depending on the conditions (reservoir, weather). So, for large bodies of water with strong currents (rivers, reservoirs), a tackle with a large rod weight of up to 120 g is suitable. For small bodies of water, a tackle with a rod up to 60 g and a small feeder is suitable. Rods with a length of 3.5 - 4 meters are the most versatile and have a good price-quality ratio. When choosing a feeder, you should take products weighing slightly less than the test rod, since the rest of the weight will be “taken” by the bait.

Lure must also correspond to the reservoir (). When fishing on a body of water with a strong current, the bait should be dense enough so that it does not wash away, and on reservoirs with a weak current or standing water - as light as possible so that it does not sink in the muddy bottom. For the latter option, a base of breadcrumbs is suitable.

To prevent the fish from quickly getting enough and thus losing interest in the bait, the components of the bait must be small. Crucian carp do not have specific taste preferences, so there can be no unambiguous and clear advice on how to make bait. For scent, you can add a little grated garlic, ground seeds, vegetable oil or even ground cookies to the bait.

Baits. As with bait, there is no advice on what to fish with. The taste preferences of crucian carp can change even during the day. We can only say that crucian carp bite well on pasta, corn, pancakes, and rye bread dough flavored with garlic.

fishing line A cross section of 0.12 mm is suitable. If there is a chance of carp or other strong fish biting, it is better to take a fishing line of about 0.2 mm. The leash should be made in this case from a thinner fishing line. The nozzle should be such that small things like roach or bleak cannot swallow it. It is better to use hooks from No. 5 – 7 to No. 9. The latter is suitable for large crucian carp. Also, the hooks should be as sharp as possible, otherwise there may be problems with hooking fish.

Tops (quivertypes), like other tackle, should be selected depending on the conditions. In the current and in the wind, the tip should not be very sensitive so as not to react to these factors and not create false bites. When fishing on a still body of water in calm weather, it should be more sensitive so that the angler can see even the most sluggish bite.

The simplest equipment for crucian carp- paternoster.

The technique of catching crucian carp with a feeder is described.

Crucian carp killer tackle

We won’t repeat ourselves - there is information about this gear. And the design is a regular feeder donk with 3 feeders and 3 hooks.

A makushatnik is a special tackle for fishing using cake. Usually carp are caught with it, but sometimes crucian carp is also caught with it. In view of this, it is possible to catch crucian carp with it purposefully. Fishing for crucian carp on top has several features.

Spinning rods are often used as gear, but more professional fishermen use feeders.

• You can use a crucian carp bait together with makukha – the most commonly used are worms and granules. Worms can be used either as dung or crawling worms, which can be found in the city or bought at a fishing store, or as “shore” worms, which can be obtained directly on the spot. Granules are used in anise, dill, hemp, corn, raspberry or strawberry flavors. The granules are placed two per hook.
• You can also use regular carp rigging, hooks can either be placed in the cake or left free. You can buy the cake flavored or flavor it yourself. Anise, hemp, dill and strawberries are suitable.

In today’s article we will look at what types of feeder feeders there are, what material they are made of, their shapes, and conditions of use. The main purpose of the feeder is to deliver food to the fishing point. There are a variety of feeders, and depending on the reservoir and conditions, we will use one or another feeder for fishing. Also, do not forget that in addition to delivering bait, the feeder plays the role of a load and it is important that its total weight with bait be 20 percent less than the upper limit .

Depending on the type of bait used, all feeders can be divided into three types:

• Mesh feeders (cage) - designed for the use of crumbly bait.
• Open type feeders (method and flat feeders) - viscous bait is used, which should not disintegrate when it hits the water.
• Feeders designed for the delivery of live food (cork feeders).

Depending on the material, they can be metal or plastic.

Feeders made of metal mesh

According to their form they can be divided into:

The advantage of these fishing feeders is that the metal mesh cuts the water perfectly, they resist the flow better than plastic ones and reach the bottom faster. A big plus when you don't want to attract small things from the water column.

When wondering which feeder feeders you should have in your arsenal, I would like to note the company’s feeders Brain. These feeders have a flat bottom on which the load is concentrated, while the bulk of it is placed on the side opposite to the loop. As a result, when entering the water, the feeder does not create a pop, which is a definite plus when fishing in shallow waters.

The disadvantage of metal feeders is that they do not float up well; this disadvantage is fully felt when fishing on deep edges and in places densely overgrown with algae.

When choosing a feeder in a store, you need to pay attention to the joints of the bars so that there are no jagged edges or sharp edges.

Also, mesh feeders may have a plug; you will need it when fishing in strong currents, and also when you use live food along with bait.

The British, who are ahead of the rest in terms of feeder tackle, have developed a special feeder tackle Shot Gun, its essence lies in the fact that when this feeder touches the bottom, a special piston pushes the bait out of it. Such a fishing feeder is not cheap, and it has not yet reached us. But I hope that soon it will appear on our shelves.

Plastic feeders for fishing

As a rule, they are cylindrical, with or without wings.

They are better suited for fishing in standing waters than metal ones; their advantages also include the fact that they can hold more food than metal ones, with the same weight. This is an immediate plus when, in order to maintain a normal bite, the fish need to be fed intensively. They float to the surface perfectly, especially if the feeders have wings, and are especially effective in places with a cluttered bottom. Feeder feeders with wings perform well on muddy soil, since the wings create an additional plane and prevent it from getting stuck in it.

The disadvantage of plastic feeder feeders is that they have a high resistance to water, which is why they are not recommended for use in currents, especially feeders with wings, since due to their presence they sink to the bottom even more slowly, and anglers often cut them off.

When choosing plastic feeders, you should pay attention to the weight at the base; if it is rectangular and strongly convex, it will create additional wind resistance when casting, which will reduce the casting distance. For example, at the feeders Feeder Sport the load is quite flat with rounded edges, allowing you to throw the tackle over longer distances.

Feeders with lugs

Designed for fishing in intense currents, they are made of metal mesh and come in rectangular and cylindrical shapes on a flat base.
These feeder feeders stay on the bottom better due to the presence of spikes on the load. In order to reduce wind resistance during flight, it is advisable to use an arched weight.

Feeder feeders for long-distance casting bullets

Very often in the canopy we have to fish at the maximum distance from the shore. In this case we use bullet feeders. They have a cylindrical or cone-shaped shape. Can be either metal or plastic.

There are two types of shipping: the first - the weight is located at a distance from the front edge of the feeder, the second - the weight is soldered into the mesh of the feeder itself.

These feeder feeders for fishing have minimal wind resistance, and the location of the main load on the bow improves the aerodynamic characteristics of the feeder, thanks to which it can be thrown at a distance of about 80-100 m even in the presence of wind. Also, these feeders go into the water practically without making any unnecessary noise, and due to the fact that the load is not cut along the plane, they float up well.

Feeding troughs

As a rule, before starting fishing, starting feeding is done; for these purposes it is better to use feeding feeders. Feeding troughs can be either plastic or metal (metal feeders come out faster).
They are larger in size than conventional feeders in order to supply as much food as possible in fewer casts; for the same reasons, feeder feeders do not have a load or it is very small.

Feeder feeders for open type fishing

These feeders are designed for fishing in still waters and weak currents.

Flat method feeders

The bait is driven into this feeder using a compaction and is held in place thanks to the presence of plastic arches. The basis of this feeder is a flat weight. Pressing of the bait is carried out using hands or a special mold. Moreover, feeders can be of different shapes and sizes, so the bee needs to be selected directly under the feeder. As a rule, using a mold, a hook with bait is pressed into the bait itself. The flat method is a more modern version of the nipple. Thanks to its flat and wide base, it works great in muddy bodies of water, and can also be caught in weak currents. When using method feeders, it is important to consider that the weight of the bait used will be equal to or even exceed the weight of your feeder.

When choosing flat method feeders for a feeder, you need to pay attention to the ribs, they can be located on the sides of the reel or be spaced apart, the size of the nozzle that you can use depends on the distance between the ribs of the feeder, so if the distance between the ribs is small you will not be able to insert a hook with a 20 mm nozzle, and at the same time, if you use feeders designed for wide nozzles and decide to use a small nozzle, then after casting and getting the feeder into the water, part of the bait will fall out and, with a high probability, your nozzle will also fall out.

Drop-shaped feeders have better flight characteristics due to the center of gravity shifted to the edge, although there are also classic flat feeders with additional weight. The downside of these feeders is that when they fall into the water, they sink into it with their noses more than a simple classic flat feeder.

For fishing in shallow but heavily silted reservoirs, you need to choose flats that have a wide base and light weight.

By casting distance:

Feeders weighing up to 25-30 grams are used at picker distances;

Feeders weighing 40-80 grams - fishing at a distance of 40 to 80 meters;

Feeders weighing 100-120 grams for pushing through strong winds and fishing at maximum distances of 100 meters or more.

Inside the flat method feeders there is an axial hole for sliding.

In carp fishing, we need a lot of food, so special frame feeders can be used here, which are a base with longitudinal ribs.

Various cereals and plasticines with flavorings are used as bait for method feeders (this refers to the degree of viscosity of the bait), and you can also buy specialized bait in the store.

Spring feeder feeders

They were actively used by our fishermen even before we had feeder equipment. This feeder consists of: a spring or spiral, a plastic tube and a weight, which can be located either on the plastic tube or on the axles.
The tube is hollow inside and you can thread a cord through it. It is precisely these feeders, connected in series in the amount of three pieces, that are the classic “crucian carp killer” tackle. The name speaks for itself.

Feeders for feeding animal food

Often, during the fishing process, we need to supplement the fishing spot with animal food (both pure and as part of bait); cork feeders are used for these purposes. They are made of plastic. There are small holes on the surface of the feeder through which food is washed out.

There are cork feeders for fishing

• Closed
• Semi-closed
• Open

Now let's figure out which feeder feeders are used when. Closed, equipped with two plugs, semi-closed, have one blind or removable plug. Used for fishing in medium and strong currents. Open feeders do not have plugs at the ends and are designed for feeding in standing reservoirs and in weak currents.

Which feeder feeders should be depending on weight

The first rule for choosing a feeder by weight is “you should use the lightest possible feeders that are suitable for the given fishing conditions and the equipment you have.” The most common feeders for standing reservoirs are 20-30 g; here the weight of the feeder will depend only on the casting distance. For weak currents, feeders weighing up to 40 g are used, on rivers with medium currents up to 60 g, for strong currents from 60 g and above. The weight of the feeder for fishing also depends on the depth of fishing and the strength of the wind, since a feeder that is too light will sink for a long time and be blown away by the wind in flight. Also, in the wind, the fishing line will sail, dragging a light feeder along the bottom.

When you use a quiver tip to signal a bite, your feeder should not slide along the bottom, straightening its sensitive tip. If you have abandoned the tackle and the feeder does not clearly lie on the bottom, then put a heavier one, it is advisable to have an arsenal of feeders with a weight difference of 5 grams, this will give you the opportunity to choose the best feeder for the fishing conditions.

Video which feeder feeders are used by fishermen

I hope after today’s review you have no questions about what kind of feeder feeders exist and how to use them depending on the reservoir.

Feeder feeders

For a beginner, it is unclear why there are so many different feeders and what is best to buy for your needs.

Experienced amateurs have a lot of them in stock. Depending on the fishing conditions, one or another feeder can be used in the equipment. As a rule, it is connected to the feeder equipment through a swivel with a carabiner, and it can be changed quickly.
The main parameters of feeders: weight and volume. But besides them, there are several more important characteristics that you need to know about.

The main rule when mastering a feeder: do not buy too much so that it doesn’t lie around later.

There is no need to repeat the experience of those fishermen who bought different gear just in case, but never used many of them. With each fishing trip, with experience, it will become clear what gear is useful and what you can do without.

What is the weight of the feeder for the river and for the lake?

During the current, the feeder should lie well on the bottom, and not jump on it. It is allowed to move slightly (1-2m) after casting, before it hits an uneven bottom. This is achieved by correctly selecting the weight of the feeder and using the main line with the minimum permissible diameter.

For rivers (currents), feeders weighing 60-80g (weak currents), 80-100-120g (strong currents), and more than 120g (very strong currents) are rarely used.

The most popular feeder weights are: 70, 80 and 100g - these are the ones you most often use when fishing on rivers. This load is suitable for medium and moderately strong currents.

If you go feeder fishing on the river, then your arsenal must have feeders weighing 60-100g. The current can be different, even in the same area. It may vary depending on the time of year, precipitation, open closed locks, etc.

At the same time, do not forget that to this weight you need to add 20-50g (depending on the volume of the feeder) of the weight of the bait. And at the same time, see if the feeder test is suitable for this total mass. Most rods can easily cope with casting a load greater than their nominal test by 20-30g or more. But this should not be practiced often, especially since working with unacceptable dough changes the structure of the rod.

For standing water, the weight of feeders from 30g is suitable. Adding 20-30g of bait to this weight, we get a total weight that is comfortable to throw.

Which feeder shape is best?

Square and round are the main cross-sectional shapes of feeders. Triangular types have not been used for a long time.

Several years ago it was believed that square feeders held up better in the current. But time and practice have shown that there is no big difference between them and round ones.

For rivers and lakes, round and square ones are used, depending on desire.
Round, cone shapes with wings float up faster when unwinding. Pulling them up is easier and faster. In this case, the load on the coil is less.

Feeder volume

Understanding the importance of volume comes with time. The larger the volume of the feeder, the more bait you can put in it.

More or less bait may be needed:

• At the beginning of fishing, it is customary to quickly deliver a large amount of food to the fishing point. And then “support” the point in small batches of bait.
• In cold water (less than 15 degrees), less food is needed, and in warm water more.
• Carp, bream, crucian carp love to eat and require more food. Bleak, roach - less.
• On the current, on the river, you can feed a lot without fear of overfeeding the fish. In a pond with stagnant water, you need less bait.

Therefore, in addition to weight and shape, it is better to have several different volumes in stock.

Rockets and bullets

Two names for the same feeder designs. Rocket feeders (bullets) have an offset sinker at the end. This design allows them to fly better, one and a half times further than round and square ones.

The missiles must be in stock. It happens that you need to fish at extremely long distances.

Often the fish is far from the shore. Throwing a feeder to the maximum distance is not easy. But if you install a rocket, then it is easier to make such throws and they turn out to be more accurate. Moreover, this design sails less in the wind.

Closed or open?

Again, a few years ago there were many feeders on sale with a lid on one end. Bottom fishermen, saving bait, considered such a cover necessary. But for the feeder it is better to use open forms. Let the bait wash out freely and feed the fishing point. This is exactly the essence of feeder fishing.

Are lugs needed?

Such extensions on the sinker are designed for better retention at the bottom. In practice this is not noticeable. If there are lugs, they won’t interfere; if not, then don’t be upset; an ordinary smooth sinker is no worse.

Flat feeders

A special type of design with a flat sinker and ribs for attaching bait. Used in flat feeder fishing. This is a slightly different type of fishing for still waters. It differs from the classics in the technique and tactics of feeding bait with a nozzle.

How and where to throw the feeder?

So, after studying many recommendations, tying and tying loops for equipment, tying leashes, purchasing tackle…. - finally the feeder is assembled and you can start fishing. But how to find a fishing spot? This will be discussed below.

How to cast a feeder?

For those who are not familiar with casting technique with an inertia-free reel, I give a short educational program.

. We take the feeder with both hands. For a right-hander: left at the beginning of the rod, right at the level of the reel.
. Right index finger fix the braid, pressing it to the rod (see photo).

. Left hand open the line arc.
. We move the rod back behind the right shoulder, the feeder should hang down to 50 cm.
. At the same time, the left arm straightens.
. We smoothly accelerate, straightening our right arm and bending our left. When the feeder reaches the “2 o’clock” position, we increase the acceleration so that in the vertical position of the feeder the acceleration is maximum.
. Release your index finger from the cord. The feeder is flying.
. If the cord is fixed in a clip (also when using a rubber band), then until it is fixed, we line up the feeder in a vertical position. So that at the moment of fixation, the flexibility of the feeder absorbs the load on the cord.

Where to throw the feeder?

It is clear that for successful fishing you need to catch fish where they are. And for this you need to know its potential locations. These are, first of all, areas of the bottom with differences in depth: the edge of the river, riffles, underwater boulders, holes. The fisherman’s task is to “probe” the bottom and find promising places for fishing. Moreover, you can successfully do this without an echo sounder, standing on the shore at one point. Let's see how to do this.
Probably many people know “jigging” wiring, in which reeling alternates with free fall of the load. This is what we will use to study the bottom.

We take the feeder and attach a weight to the tip of the feeder cord. A “lead drop” type weight is better suited for this purpose. We select a small weight so that the load does not drift away with the current. We select a research area, remember the casting direction (for example, according to a landmark on the opposite bank) and cast the weight.

As soon as we feel the impact of the sinker on the bottom, we begin to “walk” along the bottom: we make three turns of the reel handle - pause, count to ourselves the time until the weight falls to the bottom, the next three turns - again a pause, count again, hit, the next three turns - pause , count, hit, three turns, etc. The time the weight falls between our reeling and touching the bottom gives us information about the bottom topography. If this time increases, then the depth is increasing; if it decreases, then the depth becomes shallower.

So, by exploring different directions, you can find a suitable fishing area. But that’s not all, you need to fix the casting distance at this place.

For example, we noticed by “jigging” difference in bottom relief. We unwind the weight, while counting the revolutions of the reel. We got, for example, 25 revolutions. We throw the load again in the same direction. We carry out jig reeling again. We found the drop point again. We unwind the tackle. Again 25 revolutions. This means that we were not mistaken and a real bottom drop is already emerging. In the same way, let’s try to “feel” the bottom several times to the left and to the right of the place under study, etc.

This is how we begin to get a picture of what is happening at the bottom. For example, it becomes clear pit whether it is or edge.

After we have found a suitable place on the bottom and plan to feed it, we throw the weight again, further than the place under study. We find this difference again, stop the winding, take a rubber band and fix the braid on the bobbin. To do this, we make three or four turns around the spool with an elastic band and fix it in the clip.

Never fix braid in a clip! If cast too hard, it may simply not withstand the load. And the elastic band cushions the tension of the cord well.
We unwind the weight, at the same time, we should get the same turns of the reel handle (in our example, 25), and hook the equipment.

Now we know the direction (landmark on the shore) and we have a fixed casting range. You can throw the feeder not only to the same place, but also to a potentially catchy place!

Believe me, it’s better to spend even an hour exploring the bottom and fishing in a potentially fishing place than to cast at random and think: “am I fishing there?”

Make the first few casts without a hook, just a feeder filled with crumbly mixture. For example, 4-7 casts, every 20 seconds. Of course, such frequent casting can scare the fish, especially since fish have good hearing. But if fishing occurs from 20 meters from the shore, and even at a good depth, then the fish feel quite confident there. And the pleasant smell of our bait will make even shy fish come to you. After these casts, attach the hook with bait, and make casts at a normal pace (on average every 8-15 minutes). This way you can quickly create a “cloud” of bait at the bottom and attract fish.

When fixing the elastic band in the clip, it is impossible for the excess braid to come off. This can be bad when catching a large specimen, when the operation of the clutch is simply necessary. In this case, you will need to hook the elastic band and break it. Then you can operate the clutch as usual.

For those who like to watch and listen more than read, I suggest watching a short film about the basics of feeder fishing:

Selecting and winding the cord for the feeder

In this article we will not touch on the rhetorical question “what to choose cord or fishing line? ", and let's move straight to buying and winding the cord for the feeder. If you use fishing line, the winding will be similar.

So, what kind of feeder cord?

There is a large selection of cord (braid) of various sections and colors on the market and in stores. But let's think about what kind of fish the feeder is counting on. Of course, each of us wants to catch our own giant, and of course we will achieve this, but when fishing on a feeder, the main part of the catch is bream, bream, small carp, roach, silver bream, rudd, crucian carp, bluefish, which are rarely caught weighing more than one, two, three kilograms. Larger carp are mainly found at fish farms, but the fishing method for them is different. And for our trophies, a sufficient cord diameter will be 0.08 - 0.14mm.

The smaller diameter of the cord allows you to cast further, it is less affected by side winds and the tackle is less carried away by the current. But it is easily cut by shells, with which the edges and riffles are so richly dotted, where the fish like to feed. So a diameter of 0.12 - 0.14 will be optimal.

As for color, it’s a matter of taste; some people prefer a cord that is disguised as much as possible under the surface of the water, while others choose a brighter line so that they can clearly see it when reeling in.

There are many manufacturers of cords; recommending a specific brand is a thankless task. In our market, often the same cord, depending on the batch, can be completely different in quality. So it is better to buy from trusted stores and products from well-known brands.

So the cord has been purchased, now we will wind it on the selected reel. The cord must be wound almost to the edge, retreating only 1.5-2 mm.

If you wind the cord all the way to the side of the spool, then when casting, the loops will be reset, and, accordingly, the thread will become tangled.

The purchased cord can be 100 meters or 150 meters, and the spool can fit, for example, 200 meters. How to calculate the required 1-2 mm to the edge of the boot? For this we will need a spare spool, which came with the reel. Having a similar capacity, it will help us sharpen the required amount of inexpensive fishing line (for example, 0.2 in diameter) or nylon thread.

Many fishermen, instead of sharpening the fishing line, wind several layers of electrical tape onto the spool, thereby increasing its diameter. But this should not be done, since in the heat, melted glue from the insulation will fall on the braid, and this will lead to its complete replacement.

So, we install a spare plastic spool on the reel and attach it to the lower leg of the rod. We pass the cord through the only ring and tie it to the spool. It is better to immerse the reel with cord in water, because the soft cord will lie tighter and provide the necessary winding accuracy. With one hand we rotate the reel, winding the cord, and with the other we press the cord to the rod, creating the necessary tension and winding density. After the thread is wound, if the distance to the edges of the spool is greater than necessary, then sharpen the line. You can take any one, it will not participate in the fishing process.

The fishing line and cord must be spliced ​​together. The following node may be suitable for this:

After this, we wind the fishing line, not forgetting to create tension when winding. There should be a distance of approximately 1.5-2 mm to the edge of the side.

We remove this spool and lower it into the water, put a metal one, attach a fishing line behind it and rewind the sharpened fishing line and cord in the reverse order. Don't forget to create tension when winding! Alternatively, you can pass a cord or fishing line between the pages of a book, while pinching it with your knees.

Hooks and leashes for feeder fishing

For feeder fishing, hooks No. 10 - No. 18 according to the international numbering system are mainly used. Larger and smaller hooks are rarely used.

Choosing the size and shape of the hook depends on fishing conditions, type and size of fish, type and size of bait.

The more passive the bite, the more picky the fish, and we need to make our equipment even more invisible. And you have to use a thinner leash and a smaller hook. But as the hook decreases, the possibility of a fish escape also increases.

Moreover, the larger the fish, the less picky it is about the size of the hook.

The hook must be perfectly sharp. A good hook can easily pierce a maggot or scratch a nail. If there is a suspicion of loss of sharpness, it is better to replace the hook, because a dull sting is an empty bite.

Hooks must be made of high quality, properly tempered wire. The thickness of the wire varies. On thin hooks, the worm, maggot, and bloodworm remain alive for a long time, attracting fish. But a thin wire easily cuts the fish’s lip, which leads to escapes. This is especially noticeable during long casts. Therefore, choose a medium hook thickness, or preferably thicker.

Popular hooks from such manufacturers as: Gamakatsu, Owner, Kamasan, Trabucco, Hayabusa.

There are also counterfeits of well-known brands on the market, so buy hooks in good stores that value their reputation.

Leashes for feeder

Breaks and losses of hooks and feeders when fishing on a feeder are the most common thing. So you will need to knit a lot of different leashes.
For leashes, high-quality monofilament with a diameter of 0.12 to 0.18 is usually used.

Diameter is selected depending on the size of the fish you are targeting. If it is a roach, silver bream, ram, then a diameter of 0.12-0.14 is quite enough. High-quality fishing line with a smaller diameter is quite difficult to find on sale. If the object of fishing is underbream, bream, large crucian carp, then a diameter of 0.16-0.18 is optimal. There are special leash lines from different companies on sale, wound in lengths of 20 - 25 meters. They are usually of better quality than similar fishing line in large spools.

Select a soft fishing line, without memory, with a good breaking load at the smallest diameter.

Many anglers prefer fluorocarbon fishing line as a leash.

Its main advantage over conventional fishing line is its invisibility under water and resistance to abrasion, which is important when fishing on edges strewn with shells. Well, the disadvantage is rigidity, relatively low breaking load and higher price.

Average leash length For feeder fishing from 30 to 60 centimeters. And there is such a rule - the weaker the bite, the thinner and longer the leash is set .

So its length can reach one meter.

Before going fishing, it is advisable to tie in advance several types of leashes(or better yet, a couple of dozen) with different lengths, diameters and different hooks. This will save valuable time on fishing and make it possible to quickly adapt to fishing conditions. It is convenient to store leashes in a special leash holder.

See also a detailed video about choosing a leader line:

Feeder equipment

So, after choosing a reel for the feeder, let’s move on to the “heart” of feeder fishing - the equipment.

You've probably heard the terms more than once: asymmetrical loop, asymmetrical loop, paternoster. These are the names of various feeder accessories. So what should we choose from this?

The requirements will be simple:

• minimal possibility of the leash getting tangled around the equipment and cord when casting or when retrieving fish.
• absence of bulky elements and ease of manufacture;
• bite sensitivity;

Installation using anti-twist tubes

Well, experienced feeders don’t like these tubes and that’s that. This opinion may be formed after reading articles devoted to this topic. And of course it has its justification. But for novice fishermen, who may find other equipment too complicated, we can recommend using anti-twist tubes as a simple and quick way to get started with feeder fishing.

Some models even provide for the installation of two hooks. This is understandable. A fisherman who has been fishing with bottom gear for a long time knows very well what no bite is, and the more hooks with bait, the correspondingly greater the likelihood of catching at least something. But feeder rigs were invented to enhance this bite significantly! Fishermen, even fish inspectors, often come up to me and wonder: why do you have one hook? But believe me, if you feed correctly and choose the biting point, you won’t be bored; the bites will come one after another, literally a few seconds after casting. Usually 3-4 hours after feeding the catch rate is reached. So why two hooks? Or even three? They will only interfere with each other and get confused. And if the bite is weak or absent, then it is better not to add hooks, but to look for new places for fishing, experiment with bait, with groundbait, and you will definitely find your fish.

The main advantage of the anti-twist is the ease of installation, which is really important for a novice fisherman. Thread a cord through it, install stop beads on both sides, attach a swivel with a carabiner on one side, and just a loop for attaching a hook on the other. That's all. When biting, the cord slides freely through the anti-twist, signaling a bite.

Video about equipment with anti-twist tube:

But still, experienced feeders do not like these “rocker arms”. And there is a reason for it. The sensitivity of the gear when using these tubes is minimal; on a muddy bottom, dirt gets into the anti-twist, which leads to it clogging and the cord getting stuck. Flight performance when casting the feeder is reduced. It was repeatedly noticed that when biting carefully, the fish took the bait with an anti-twist much more reluctantly than when using other equipment.

Simple and sensitive equipment - paternoster

Perhaps the most popular equipment. We have already devoted a whole detailed one, where we carefully examined its advantages and disadvantages. I was skeptical about it for some time precisely because of its simplicity. But after much experimentation, I came to the conclusion that although it is slightly inferior in sensitivity to an asymmetrical loop, thanks to the minimal manufacturing time, it is worthy of taking a place among my favorite installation methods.

I often fish with two feeders, one with an asymmetrical loop and the other with a paternoster. The difference in sensitivity is practically unnoticeable. Yes, asymmetry responds better to even the slightest movement of the feeder, or to a fish sipping a worm, but is this sensitivity always necessary? In any case, the choice is yours, but knowing what a paternoster is and how to knit it will not hurt. It knits up in a couple of minutes and is quite capable of replacing a broken loop.

Knitting paternoster

Let's look at two main types of paternoster.

1. Gartner paternoster (two hinges)

We knit a paternoster directly on the main braid. And you can do this at home. Since there are no auxiliary parts on it, it will easily pass through even the smallest ring at the tip of the feeder.

At the tip of the main braid we make a loop for attaching a leash with a hook to it. At the same time, we make three or four turns, moisten and tighten the knot well.

We retreat from the knitted loop a distance of 15 centimeters. And we knit a larger loop, 5-8 centimeters long, in the same way. It should be such that the feeder can fit through it.

When fishing, we pass the resulting paternoster through the feeder rings. We pass a large loop through the ring of the swivel on the feeder. We pull out this ring and pass the feeder through it. When tightening the loop, try to ensure that the tightening is not at one point, but distributed over the swivel (see photo). This makes it possible to easily change the feeder without breaking the loop. Or we use a latch, with which it will also not be difficult to change the feeder.

Loop in loop, attach the leash with the hook to the small loop.

And the paternoster is ready. See also video

2. Paternoster (blind equipment).

We measure out a loop of about 10 centimeters, make a knot in three or four turns, moisten it and tighten it well. Cut in the middle. At one end we make a small loop for the hook, and tie the other to the feeder.

After fishing, it should be cut off and tied new.

Asymmetrical (asymmetrical) loop

This is probably the most popular feeder equipment. Its main advantage is sensitivity. A disadvantage is the tendency to get tangled when casting, especially with a leash length of more than 40 centimeters.

If, when the bite is active, I throw out this tackle again, but there are no bites, it means there is an overlap again. I pull it out - for sure!

For this equipment, it is important to choose a rigid fishing line with a diameter of 0.3-0.45. An asymmetrical loop consists of two parts: a twist with a loop for the hook and the asymmetrical loop itself.

1. We take two meters of fishing line and fold it in half. We measure 1.5-2 centimeters and make a loop for the hook.
2. A twisting method that everyone can do: fasten a loop to some object, and twist a fishing line 10-15 cm long under tension. Tighten a double knot at the end. You should get a layer like this.
3. On the remaining fishing line, measure out an asymmetrical loop with sides 60-70 cm by 40-50 cm. We thread a carabiner through the larger side to attach the feeder. And tighten the double knot.

In this equipment, the feeder slides freely along the loop, which gives maximum sensitivity to the equipment. When casting, the twist moves the hook to the side, preventing it from getting caught in the loop.

Watch the video of the asymmetrical loop

After fishing, it should be cut off and a new one tied.

AND This is exactly the case, not everything is as simple when choosing a feeder as it seems at first glance, especially for novice fishermen. And first of all, oddly enough, it is necessary to understand why it is needed on the feeder gear. The answer that for baiting, and as a result, attracting fish, will be correct, but incomplete. Those fishermen who use, for example, a picker or a match, which are a type of feeder, can do without feeders, feeding the place either by hand or from a slingshot. And they don’t complain about the results.

P Therefore, first we will dwell on important notes or even rules when fishing with a feeder, which are not only desirable, but mandatory to know in order to use feeder equipment and tackle most effectively. So:

• N and the vast majority of our rivers with any, strong or weak surface current, flow at the bottom of the reservoir or absent, or very minimal. It follows that it is not the bottom current that pulls the feeder, but the or, which is located in the upper layers of the reservoir. And if there is a bottom current, then on such a gravel bottom, for example, our bait will not linger, which means the feeder will be completely ineffective. And there are not many fish on such a bottom, because there is no food for it.
• H In order for the feeder to rest confidently on the bottom of the reservoir, it is necessary to increase not only its weight, as it seems at first glance, but also to select the thinnest but strongest cord that will have less resistance in the water. And of course, it is necessary to take into account that the wider the bottom of the feeder, the more stable it is at the bottom. Various devices that increase the hooking of the feeder to the bottom of the reservoir are also fully justified.
• IN An important, perhaps even the main, requirement for a feeder feeder is maximum capacity with minimum dimensions. It is also desirable, although not always necessary, for the feeder to have good aerodynamic properties for long-distance casting. Its goal is to bring the bait to the fishing site and unload this bait. The faster the feeder unloads the bait, the faster the bait will start working.
• P When choosing bait for a feeder feeder, it is necessary to take into account that light fractions produce turbidity and attract fish to the fishing site. But large fractions of the bait remain at the bottom and serve as fish food, i.e. hold fish at the fishing site.
• D For feeder fishing, you need to have a wide range of feeders for different fishing conditions and different bodies of water with fast or slow currents. Feeders are consumables; in one fishing trip you can “lose” several feeders, especially at the initial stage of mastering feeder gear.

M The variety of types, shapes and weights of the offered feeders can confuse even an experienced fisherman. And it’s easy to verify this by going to any fishing store. But the right choice of feeder for feeder fishing largely determines the success of fishing with feeder gear. It is almost impossible to consider the pros and cons of all modifications of feeder feeders, but it is quite possible to systematize them according to certain characteristics.

P First of all, when choosing a feeder, you need to pay attention to 3 main characteristics:

• Design- open, semi-closed or closed feeder.
• Section- round, square or triangular.
• Weight— determines the load both on the feeder itself in the reservoir and on the feeder rod when casting it.

1. DESIGN

TOopen type feedershave the highest bait capacity compared to closed-type feeders with the same dimensions. The bait from open feeders is washed out faster, which means they will set the “table” for the fish faster. This is exactly the task that the feeder faces, and the open type feeder copes with this task most fully. The more spacious the feeder with minimum dimensions, the better, especially at the initial stage of baiting the fishing spot.

ABOUT Opened feeders, as a rule, have a streamlined shape in the form of a drop, a spring, or any section considered below, but open at 2 ends. Such feeders have minimal resistance when pulling out the gear and are most suitable not only at the stage of mastering the feeder, but also after fully mastering the feeder gear.

TO Let’s briefly look at feeders in the form of a “spiral”, which we also classified as open feeders. Such feeders are most often of the sliding type, i.e. the fishing line or braid passes through the hole through it and moves from the leader to the stopper. The advantage of such feeders is their simplicity and high casting range. These feeders are most suitable for fishing in still water. Among the disadvantages of using such feeders, it is necessary to note some loss of sensitivity of the gear.

• TOsemi-closed type troughs on one side they have a plug that slows down the process of washing out the bait. This design is most popular when the bait is not sticky enough, for example, when bloodworms or maggots are added to it. Often such feeders are used on reservoirs with medium currents or for rare castings. Such a feeder, unlike an open one, does not set the “table”, but only attracts the fish to it. Which is more consistent with the ideology of an ordinary donka, but not a feeder. The plug in such feeders provides additional resistance when pulling out the equipment and significantly loads the equipment. And this must be taken into account when choosing a test rod and spinning reel.

• Zcovered feeders, as can be seen from the name, they are closed at 2 ends, and, first of all, they pursue the goal of increasing the time the bait is washed out of it. Such feeders are more often used in reservoirs with strong currents, unless of course such feeders are cylindrical in shape. Just like semi-closed type feeders, they serve to attract fish, but in no way to set a “table” for fish. It is clear that for such feeders it is necessary to prepare bait from small fractions. Large particles of bait will remain in such a feeder.

AND Of course, such closed feeders can also include quite specific feeders for maggots or worms as bait, where there are not many holes and they are larger in size. It is clear that they also cannot attract fish and serve to keep them at the fishing site. Most often, such feeders are plastic and lightweight. They are most suitable for muddy bottoms because they are less prone to sinking into it.

2. SECTION

• Ccylindrical feeders have good flight characteristics due to their streamlined aerodynamic shape. After all, it is the cylinder of the simplest geometric shapes that has the best aerodynamics. Such feeders are most suitable for ponds with standing water or slow flow. This shape is unstable at the bottom of the reservoir, and in strong currents the cylindrical feeder will be carried away. But, we note that even if it is carried away by the current, it can be used as bait, which is successfully used in feeder fishing. Let us repeat that an open feeder with a round cross-section is most suitable for feeder fishing, and most fully solves the main task of a feeder feeder for delivering bait to the fishing spot and quickly unloading it.
• Trectangular shape more suitable for bodies of water with fast currents. It’s not for nothing that they say that “the faster the current, the more triangular the feeder should be.” Such feeders, even without additional hooks, hold perfectly at the casting point, although they do not have outstanding flight characteristics. Among the disadvantages, one can also note the small capacity of such feeders. TO such feeders that stay perfectly on the bottom even in strong currents include feederssemicircular, in the form of a sphere, section. We will not consider them separately and we will not be much mistaken if we include them in this category.
• TOsquare shape also well suited for fast currents, and, unlike a triangular-shaped feeder, allows you to hold more bait. The feeder holds well at the casting point, but when casting it also does not fly as far as a round feeder, although further than a triangular feeder. This is the most versatile form and is widely used by fishermen. It flies well and stays confidently at the bottom of the reservoir. This is the second shape of the feeder after the round section, which must be chosen for the feeder. And of course, pay special attention to the absence of any end caps. Think carefully about their need for the specific body of water where you are going to fish.

3. WEIGHT OF THE FEEDER

ABOUT A very important parameter, taking into account the fact that fishing with feeder gear involves frequent casts. Place a light feeder, it will be carried away by the current or twisted, increase the weight - you will unnecessarily load the feeder tackle, both the rod itself and the spinning reel. And choosing such an optimal weight of the feeder can be very problematic. As a rule, the weight of the feeder is up to 60 grams, which is quite sufficient in reservoirs with standing water or weak currents. But if the current is strong, then the weight of the feeder can reach 120 grams, even without taking into account the weight of the bait.

P With such a large weight of the feeder used, pay attention to the test of the rod and the quality of the rings, and keep in mind that the load on the spinning feeder will be very significant. Most often, the weight of the feeder is indicated on the weighting material, made either from a lead plate or any other weighting element.

ABOUT It is especially important to focus on plastic feeders. Their main advantage is that they are lighter than metal ones and are more suitable, for example, for fishing on a muddy bottom - they do not fall into it. Quite often, quick-release weights can be installed in such feeders - a quick and easy option for adapting to certain fishing conditions. Less often, but still, such light feeders are used for fishing in the water column.

4. VOLUME OF THE FEEDER

TO Of course, in terms of volume, or more precisely in terms of filling, feeders can be completely different. But in order to somehow estimate how much bait the feeder can bring to the fishing site, and therefore, albeit approximately, estimate how much bait to prepare for fishing, we will give a few numbers. This is the size scale for a popular open cylindrical feeder from a reputable manufacturer:

• Diameter: 35 mm, length: 47 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling approximately 40-50 grams.
• Diameter: 41 mm, length: 47 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling approximately 60-70 grams.
• Diameter: 45 mm, length: 66 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling approximately 90-100 grams.

E These numbers clearly show not only how much bait to prepare for fishing, but also show that a heavy feeder is not needed very often. And it will be more effective if the feeder is more voluminous with a low dead weight. And the total weight of the feeder with bait will correspond to the test of the spinning rod, and you will set the “table” for the fish faster.

5. CONCLUSION

IN All types of feeders for feeder fishing are almost impossible to consider in detail, but the main types that are discussed in this article will at least allow you to navigate their diversity. And knowledge of their functionality and purpose will allow you to choose the most optimal feeder for fishing in a particular reservoir. But let us emphasize once again that depending on conditions fishing, a lot depends, including the choice of feeder.

Happy fishing!

Donka with a feeder is a catchy and popular tackle. With its help, a small container with bait is delivered in close proximity to the nozzle, which allows you to increase the number of bites. Despite the apparent simplicity of the design of such a donkey, during its installation it is necessary to take into account several subtleties, which will be discussed in the article.

General information about donks

The peculiarity of bottom fishing rods with feeders is that the container in which the bait is placed performs a double function. When cast, it becomes a load and flies over a long distance; when it falls to the bottom, it turns into a place for fish to feed. In this way, the fisherman not only delivers a hook with bait to the required point, but also suggests where to eat.

In addition to this quality, there are other advantages, such as the possibility of fishing over long distances, at depth or in the current, where it is not possible to accurately throw bait, and finally, the costs of components are low. The main disadvantage is the difficulty of using the donkey in snags.

To understand how to make a donk with a feeder, you should familiarize yourself with the types of donks. The most commonly used bottom gear is the following designs:

"Zakidushka" The oldest tackle. It is a fishing line with a diameter of 0.3-04 mm and a length of up to 50 meters, assembled on a reel. Initially, a weight was used, attached to the end of the equipment; leashes with hooks were located a little higher. Then sliding sinkers began to be used, and the leash with the hook was moved to the end. This solution increased the sensitivity of the gear. Feeders in this version are not used for a simple reason: to throw the bait, the fisherman first spins the load, and due to centrifugal force, all the bait spills out of the container.

"Rubber". An original and very catchy equipment that helps to achieve high results in mass fishing of such fish as crucian carp, roach, ram, saberfish. To make it a bottom tackle, you simply tie a rubber shock absorber directly to the load. The fishing line that follows then spreads along the bottom. You can make an elastic band with a feeder, but then you will have to choose a tighter shock absorber and the lightest possible container for food, so that you spend less effort on delivering it.

Donka from a spinning rod with a feeder. It has replaced the “stuff”. Initially, the basis was taken on a spinning rod (usually of large test), equipped with an inertial or inertial-free reel, on which a fishing line with a weight and hooks was wound. Later, a feeder, mainly of a spring type, was used as a load, in which the bait was stored for the longest possible time. This option was chosen for a simple reason: it is inconvenient to make frequent casts, but there are no longer any disadvantages of casting.

Feeder. Modern tackle, consisting of a special rod with flexible, replaceable tips (alarms), a spinning reel, monofilament with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm and multiple variations of feeders and leashes.

What kind of feeders are there?

There are several types of feeders in which fishermen deliver bait mixtures. Let's describe them.

"Spring". The most common type of donkey feeder. It is intended for standing water and is manufactured industrially or with your own hands exclusively in a sliding version. Assembling the tackle is very simple: just thread the line through the axial tube, then into the stopper, tie a swivel, to which attach a leash with a hook.

Most often, it was equipped with a spinning rod bottom with a feeder. Some modifications of the “spring” provide additional weight on its axis. If you need to load it yourself, it is better to use lead tape, making several turns on the axis.

The bait for such a feeder is prepared with a viscous consistency so that it does not crumble when it hits the water and falls apart for a long time when it falls to the bottom. Rarely used on rivers and canals due to its shape and tendency to roll downstream.

Classic “spring” with “rocker arm” and their location in the gear

There are very small feeders that can be equipped with both a half-bottom and a fishing rod with a float. Gear collected in this way sometimes gives unexpectedly good results.

“Cage” is a mesh feeder. The most common option. It appeared with the introduction of picker and feeder into fishing practice, and during its existence it has been modernized and improved more than once. It is manufactured with a built-in load and is attached at one point. It can be round or rectangular in cross section.

With this feeder you can go for any non-predatory fish, including carp and bream. With its help, the fisherman first baits the selected fishing point, throwing a filled container without a hook several times and sharply supporting the tackle when it reaches the bottom. The food comes out of the tunnel freely and remains in the water. Then the leash is put on, the tackle is thrown and the fishing process itself begins. Each time you hook, additional feeding occurs.

Mesh feeder is the main tool for feeder fishing

If you plan to fish in a strong current, choose a rectangular net with a large flat weight. In still water, both types can be used, but if the bottom of the reservoir is silted, you should prefer containers that do not sink into the viscous bottom.

Closed feeder. A cylindrical plastic container of this type is used in circumstances where the bait contains a large amount of animal components such as maggots or bloodworms. They can leave the internal space only through a limited number of holes, around which interested fish will be “on duty.” Sometimes some of the outputs are blocked for greater efficiency.

Closed feeders are designed for feeding with animal components.

Naturally, such a feeder can be successfully used only in standing water, since it is not weighted. But it does not sink much into the mud, which is an additional advantage of this container option.

Feeders for long casting. When fishing, you may need to cast your tackle over a long distance (more than 60 meters). Ordinary mesh containers will not fly like that, and they may not withstand the load. Therefore, special designs have been developed that can travel long distances by air.

To improve flight characteristics, a lead round weight is attached to the feeder at some distance, as a result of which it takes on the shape of a bullet.

Bullet feeder – designed for long-distance fishing

This design should not be used on silted reservoirs. In addition, it is prone to snags.

Feeders for special occasions

In fishing practice, there are cases when conventional types of feeders are not suitable for fishing conditions. Let's describe them.

The old proven design has been able to successfully lure carp and carp for many years. It consists of a lead plate, to which a block of pressed sunflower cake is attached using rubber from a bicycle inner tube.

The leashes with hooks here are tied tightly to the base, the nozzle on the hook is not put on, and its sting is stuck into the top of the tree in the corners through drilled holes. The gear worked on the principle of self-hooking, and the fisherman sometimes did not even set a bite alarm, determining the presence of a trophy by the sag or tension of the fishing line.

In the complete absence of a bite, the hooks could be equipped with bait that was preferred by large fish - corn, peas, soybeans, etc.

A plate with a top is a passive tackle designed for large carp fish

In conditions of strong current, it is required that the bait container remain motionless throughout the entire fishing period. With conventional mesh feeders, this result is difficult to achieve. Therefore, the fishermen made it as flat as possible, maintaining the volume for the bait mixture.

Flat feeder for rivers with strong currents

In order for the other qualities of this element to remain in force, it was necessary to strengthen the attachment point to the fishing line. It is made of all metal.

This type of bait container is indirectly related to the topic of our article, but it needs to be mentioned, since sometimes during the fishing process you have to change gears on the fly in order to get away from zero.

You can do it yourself by taking a feeder, removing the weight and securing in the upper part (where there is no fastening) a large volume of buoyant substance (spray foam, polystyrene foam, etc.). The main thing is that the device tips over in the water, gradually dropping the bait.

The gear here becomes more complicated, since it is necessary to calculate so that the bait does not sink too much and the fish does not get scared of the container.

A floating feeder is a good tool for attracting fish close to the surface of the water.

How to attach a feeder to a fishing line

There are several recipes for rigging a bottom fishing rod with a feeder. Everyone’s leash is knitted the same way, but the attachment of the bait container depends on the angler’s intentions, his preferences and fishing conditions.

Sliding equipment. It is used both for “springs”, when the fishing line is threaded through an axial tube, and for feeders with one attachment point, when the fishing line passes through the eye of the bracket or an anti-twist tube. The last option is worth taking a closer look at.

The essence of the equipment is that when biting, the fishing line slides freely in a plastic tube, and when casting, the feeder and nozzle are separated and do not intersect. The finished element can be purchased at the store, but most often it is made independently.

As an anti-twist, anglers use either an empty ballpoint or gel pen, or a cocktail tube. The rigid structural element protects the equipment from twisting and overlaps, without providing resistance to the fishing line.

The feeder is attached at the bend made approximately 1/3 of the tube, rigidly to the tube or using a small leash. The hook and container will be positioned at a certain angle when casting. The free movement of the main line within 30 centimeters is limited on both sides by stoppers. The leash for the hook can be placed directly after the tube.

The fastening unit is made of copper or soft steel wire. When winding, a small eye is left into which a swivel or carabiner is threaded. You can select the diameter of a small piece of insulation that fits onto the tube.

The anti-twist tube allows the fishing line to slide freely inside and prevents the equipment from twisting

The gear is convenient, but athletes are skeptical about it due to poor camouflage in clear water.

Paternoster. Correctly assembling such equipment is not difficult, and installation is carried out directly on the reservoir.

First, we tie a loop about 25 centimeters long at the end of the fishing line. You should knit with a double knot, making sure to wet it for strength. Then we roughly divide the circle of the loop into three parts and cut it at a distance equal to 2/3 of this circle. You will get two unequal parts. We tie a swivel for the leash to the larger one, and a swivel for the feeder to the smaller one.

After casting and retrieving the tackle, they are located parallel to each other. When biting, the force is directly transmitted to the signaling device, bypassing the feeder.

It is also not difficult to equip the donk with such a mount. First, a swivel is put on the fishing line, to which the feeder will later be attached. Then a side loop approximately 15 centimeters long is knitted. Moreover, you need to make sure that the swivel is inside the loop. The free end is left 25-30 centimeters long.

Gardner's loop - modification of the paternoster (diagram)

The device of this type of bottom equipment allows you to increase the sensitivity of the gear and reduce the number of overlaps when casting.

We take a separate piece of fishing line (preferably fluorocarbon for rigidity) about 80 centimeters long, fold it in half. We thread one end into the swivel. We tie knots at a distance of 10 centimeters from each edge. Along the edges we will have loops of 10 centimeters each, and in the center there will be a 20-centimeter loop with a swivel inside.

Symmetrical loop – convenient when casting and does not interfere with biting

Experienced fishermen make twists from these small loops. The leash will be attached to one of them, and the main fishing line to the other. After casting and retrieving, the container will be close to the nozzle. When hooking, the fish will have 20 centimeters before it feels the resistance of the load.

Installation of such equipment is somewhat more difficult than the previous one, but if you practice, it is quite achievable. The central loop is also knitted here, but it should have an irregular shape.

An asymmetrical loop allows you to separate the leash and feeder to a safe distance

In this version, overlaps are minimized, and sensitivity has increased even more, especially in the current.

To summarize, we note that fishing with a feeder can bring a lot of joy and pleasure to the angler. This kind of gear is easy to assemble, even in a budget version. The main thing is to choose the type of container suitable for the pond and choose the right bait.