How to make a swimming pool in a sauna with your own hands. Bathhouse with a swimming pool: a project for a stunning bathhouse complex for relaxation. Positioning relative to the floor surface

Especially if after the steam room you can plunge into a cool pool, which invigorates and refreshes your steamed body. If you have a sauna, but it does not have a pool, you can make it yourself. Making a swimming pool in a bathhouse with your own hands is quite possible. In this article we will talk about the technology, subtleties and many nuances of pool construction.

Which pool to choose

First you need to decide what kind of pool you need, as they may differ from each other. And the point is not only in their size, but also in their design features. You should know that pools can be divided into 3 types:

1. Stationary pools. They are called the most durable and reliable. Such structures can be initially provided for during the construction of the bathhouse or made later. The basis for them is a reinforced concrete bowl, which is installed on the foundation in a pre-dug hole. Such pools can be of any depth and size. They are divided into above-ground and in-depth types.
2. Prefabricated pools. They can be called mobile structures. This is a godsend for people who move frequently or for those who need a pool periodically. It can be easily dismantled and installed in another place. This is the main advantage of this type. If a swimming pool was not planned for your bathhouse, it can be easily installed. Moreover, saving space is another plus of such pools.
3. You will not be able to swim in such hydromassage pools. This water reservoir is used for special procedures only. All you need to do is buy it and install it in the right place.

If the space in your building is very limited, then a mini-pool is suitable for you - these are various barrels and fonts. Such small containers can be made of wood, plastic or acrylic.

Once you have made your choice, you can proceed directly to work. In this article we will not consider collapsible pools and spa structures, since their installation is quite simple and is done according to the instructions. Next, you will learn in detail how to make a stationary pool and what is needed for this.

Deciding on a place

An important step in building your pool is choosing a location. You need to decide where it will be placed: indoors or outdoors. All this will influence the size of the future structure and when it will be used - all year round or only in the warm season.

It is necessary to take into account how close the groundwater is. The distance from the bottom of the pool to groundwater should not be less than 1 m. Moreover, the walls of the bathhouse and the pool should not touch. Otherwise, the water will put pressure on the walls, which may result in cracks. Please note that even a small tank can hold approximately 10 tons of water. Therefore, it is important to leave a gap between the walls, which is filled with sand.

If you decide to build outside, the best option The foundation under the pool will be installed. Then you don't need to be afraid of groundwater.

Designing the future tank

Any builder knows that nothing can be built without a detailed design. Therefore, you need to plan everything in detail, taking into account:

• pool dimensions;
• its shape;
• conduction and drainage of water;
• waterproofing;
• design;

The size and shape of the bowl plays an important role, since these indicators significantly affect the cost of the entire construction. The larger the size and more complex the configuration, the higher the costs will be.

To save on construction costs, choose a rectangular structure. In this case, the consumption of materials will be much less. A round or oval pool will cost you much more, but it will look more attractive.

Excavation

After all the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to solving the problem of installing a bathhouse on your site. First of all, you need to dig a pit for the pool, starting from its size. The pit itself should be 50 cm larger in width and length of the pool, and its depth should be 35–45 cm. For convenience, you can mark the pool on the ground according to the plan. There is nothing complicated, just use pegs with a stretched rope around the perimeter.

After this you need to dig a pit. If the pool is indoors or there is no access for an excavator, you will have to dig it manually. The bottom is made with a slight slope to one side, where the drain pipe will be located. It needs to be installed in advance. Immediately install a pipe from the drain to the sewer or drainage pit with the required slope. Then pour sand into the bottom of the pit, level it and compact it in a layer of 4–5 cm. The second layer is fine crushed stone 10 cm thick. It also needs to be compacted. This pad will be the base for pouring concrete.

Now you need to fill the prepared base with a 10 cm layer of concrete. After this, make a reinforcing mesh on the surface and fill everything with 10 cm of concrete again. Thanks to this technology, you can ensure the durability, strength and reliability of the pool bottom.

Concrete must be of high quality and absorb a minimum of moisture. We recommend using W-8 grade concrete; it has the required structural density and minimal absorbency.

There is no need to wait until the concrete base dries so that the reliability of the structure does not decrease. Therefore, the walls must be poured simultaneously with the concreting of the pool bottom. When the bottom is filled, install the formwork and secure it. Then place the reinforcing mesh and concrete the walls. To prevent seams from forming between the wall and the bottom, the concrete must be bayoneted. This is the only way to make the pool structure monolithic.

It is important to pour the walls at one time so that they are reliable and do not crack in the future, so prepare the required amount of concrete in advance.

After pouring the walls, the concrete must immediately be compacted, expelling air bubbles from it. The result will be much better if you use a concrete vibrator. After which the entire surface needs to be leveled. After a while it becomes tedious to remove the formwork. When this can be done, you will find out from the table:

During this time, we recommend moistening the surface a little every day to avoid the appearance of cracks that form when the concrete dries out.

As soon as everything is dry, it is necessary to plaster the surface with cement-sand mortar. Its thickness should be 2–3 cm. Since this concerns a pool where water will constantly be present, it is better to use waterproof compounds with latex. Then the plaster will hold strong and for a long time, and thanks to the additives it will be much more elastic and gain better water resistance.

An important step is waterproofing, since we are talking about water. The most economical and fastest option is to use PVC film. It covers the entire surface of the pool bowl. A more expensive and reliable option would be when the inside of the concrete bowl is covered with a special waterproofing material. This could be “Osmosil”, which needs to be applied in two layers to a pre-moistened surface. After which the final layer will be a special adhesive composition, which includes latex. This glue can even hold glass.

Cladding works

Now we have a bathhouse with a swimming pool, which is almost ready. All that remains is to carry out the facing work to refine it. This is the last stage of work. Facing materials are presented in a wide range. You need to decide not only on the choice of material for the work, but also on the color. The most popular facing materials used for swimming pools are mosaic, tiles and PVC film.

Tile. To decorate swimming pools in baths and saunas, special tiles made of porcelain are used. Its main advantage is its density, which is much higher than that of ceramic tiles, and it absorbs much less water. Before buying a tile, it is important to take into account its moisture absorption rate - it should not exceed 3%.

Ceramic tiles are not suitable for this purpose, due to the fact that they absorb moisture well. As a result, such a pool will be a breeding ground for bacteria and mold. Therefore, if your choice falls on tiles, use only porcelain products. Thanks to special manufacturing technology, it is resistant to high temperatures, waterproof, durable and anti-slip. The only drawback of this material is its cost. You can choose tiles of any size and color.

Mosaic. The most popular option in pool lining, and for good reason, as it is the best. Mosaic has excellent water resistance, density and strength. It is non-porous and has high wear resistance. And thanks to the small size of the tiles, from 1x1 to 5x5 cm, you can decorate your pool with various ornaments, patterns and designs. Moreover, mosaics can be laid on surfaces with various irregularities. But don't think that if your pool is large, you'll just get tired of laying out every tile by hand. Mosaics are sold in ready-made sheets, the tiles of which are connected by a mesh. But the price of mosaic is also high.

PVC film. The cheapest option for pool cladding. Its thickness can be 1–1.5 mm. It has excellent waterproofing characteristics and consists of 3 layers. Between the 3rd and 2nd layers there is a durable synthetic mesh. The film is not exposed to chemical or natural influences and is easy to wash. There is a rough layer on top that is very resistant to various microorganisms. The price of such a film is 2 or 3 times cheaper than mosaics and tiles.

After you have chosen the material, all that remains is to finish the cladding and install the stairs to the pool. Now you know how to build your own pool and can begin the work with confidence. All that remains is to enjoy cool water after a hot bath. By the way, it was found that if you immerse yourself in cold water after a good warm-up for 3-5 minutes, a large amount of endorphins are released into the blood. Thanks to this, stress and chronic fatigue are relieved, the immune system is strengthened and the body is rejuvenated. We wish you good health!

Video

This video talks about ten main mistakes that are often made when building a swimming pool:

Photo

Many bath lovers like to jump into the snow after visiting the steam room. They find in this a special, but, nevertheless, pleasure that is not understandable to everyone. However, for obvious and objective reasons, this action can only be carried out in winter. Fortunately, this annoying circumstance for many can be solved. To do this, it is enough to build a pool in the bathhouse. Doing the work yourself is preferable from the point of view of saving money, because the services of hired specialists are far from cheap, and their prices are often not entirely justifiably inflated.

Before you make a swimming pool in a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to carefully plan and prepare everything.

What kind of pool do you need?

First you need to decide what kind of pool you need. Pools can differ quite significantly from each other not only in size, but also in design features, so several main types can be distinguished.

• Permanently installed pools. As you might guess, these include swimming pools, which were initially provided for by the design of the building itself. It can be either a large pool or a small plunge pool. It all depends on the volume of the room, as well as the individual preferences of the owners.
• Prefabricated pools. This is another type of pool that can be a real boon for people who do not live outside the city permanently, but only periodically. It can be used if a swimming pool was not initially included in the design of the bathhouse. Such a pool is convenient from the point of view of saving space, because it can always be disassembled and put away if not needed.
• Hydromassage pools. Of course, such water tanks can only be considered swimming pools conditionally, because it is impossible to swim in them, but they are intended for hydromassage procedures. In addition, such devices are sold already assembled and ready for installation, so their consideration in this article is not entirely appropriate.

When everything has been decided on the type of pool, and it is clear what needs to be done, you can begin work. It makes no sense to consider the assembly of a finished pool; just read the attached instructions, but how to make a stationary pool needs to be examined in more detail.

Design

It is necessary to think about whether the pool will be inside the bathhouse or outside at the stage of general design of the building. Here it is necessary to take into account first of all the planned dimensions of the bath. If there is enough space, then a separate room should be allocated for the pool, which can be equipped according to your wishes. If there is not much space available for construction, then the way out of the situation would be to build a swimming pool, which can be placed in the washing room. In any case, these calculations should be carried out at the stage of marking and building the foundation, because the device permanent pool involves primarily excavation work.

It should also be added that all water supply systems must be calculated taking into account the location of the pool, since it requires regular water purification and circulation.

Excavation

When all the necessary calculations have been carried out, and all questions regarding the location of the future pool have been resolved, you can proceed to excavation work, the initial stage of which should be marking the site. It is necessary, in accordance with the previously completed drawings, to mark the place where the pool will be located. In principle, this stage is not difficult. The place is marked using pegs and a rope stretched between them.

It is also worth adding that before digging a pit, it is necessary to decide on the design of the staircase that will serve to enter/exit the water. There are stairs made in the form of a separate element, and there are steps that are made in one of the walls. In this case, you should be guided by your own considerations, but it is clear that if the dimensions are limited, then a separate staircase is preferable.

After the place has been marked, you can begin the most time-consuming part of the work, that is, digging a pit for the pool. These works can be done manually, or you can hire special equipment, again, it all depends on the expected size of the pool, which can have any shape and depth. It should be noted here that there is no need for an excessively large pool, because keeping it in proper condition will require not only an investment of effort, but also money.

Note! When the main digging work is completed, it is necessary to organize a cushion of sand and gravel at the bottom of the pit. They need to be poured in layers, each of which should be at least 15 cm. After which the pillow should be compacted, moistened with water. It will serve as a base for concrete pouring.

Reinforcement and formwork

When the pit is dug and the base is poured, you need to lay overlapping strips of roofing felt on the walls of the pit, and then install the formwork to fill the walls of the pool. The installation of formwork for these purposes is carried out in the same way as for the foundation, with the only difference being that only its inner part is assembled, since it stands inside the pit.

Pouring a concrete floor

As mentioned above, after the pit is ready, you need to lay overlapping strips of roofing material and fill the first layer with concrete mixture. To prepare it, it is best to use clean sand and cement of a grade not lower than M-400.

After the first layer of concrete has hardened, reinforcement is placed on top of it using a metal mesh. It is laid at some elevation from the bottom, after which another layer of concrete is poured on top of the reinforcing layer. Such measures will minimize the risk of destruction of the pool base from contact with water.

Filling the walls

After completing the installation of formwork, you can proceed to pouring the concrete mixture. It is important to note that it is preferable if the walls are poured in one go, so you need to prepare a sufficient amount of grout in advance. To correctly calculate how much mixture is required, you need to multiply the perimeter of the walls by their thickness and height, thus obtaining the total cubic capacity.

Waterproofing

The next stage of the pool construction work is laying waterproofing material. It is necessary to cover the resulting pool tank with a special plaster containing silicone. This base will be perfect for the next final stage.

Pool lining

The final stage of the pool construction work can be considered its lining. Several materials are suitable for these purposes, for example, porcelain tiles, glass mosaic or special PVC film. Each of these materials has its own pros and cons, and you need to choose it based on personal considerations. For example, porcelain tiles are quicker to install than mosaics and cheaper, while mosaics are more versatile. A variety of patterns can be made from mosaics, but this will take time. And PVC film is faster and easier to install than its analogues, but at the same time it has a limited number of colors. In general, the choice is an individual matter. To clearly see what kind of pools there are in the bathhouse, we recommend looking at the photo.

Photo

Many people value comfort, which will make the usual washing procedure a real pleasure. The question of whether a swimming pool is needed in a bathhouse is decided by each owner independently. Some people believe that this is an excess and extra costs, while others do not understand how they can do without it. Of course, a structure such as a swimming pool in a bathhouse with your own hands adds operational difficulties and creates a risk for the entire building structure, but with proper construction, all problems can be easily eliminated.

Advantages and disadvantages of a sauna pool

The following factors speak in favor of its arrangement:

• providing a hardening effect, and the ability to cool down in water directly in the bathhouse without going out into the cold;
• bathing can be an independent procedure for those for whom the steam room is contraindicated;
• beneficial effects on the human body of a combination of steaming and water procedures;
• the possibility of conveniently washing the body after the steam room;
• increasing the comfort and prestige of the bathhouse.

When planning construction, the disadvantages of the project should also be taken into account: firstly, the need for additional space, secondly, an increase in humidity in the room, which has a destructive effect on the wooden structure, and thirdly, an increased risk of water seeping from the pool into the soil, which can have a destructive effect. impact on the foundation. Additional financial investments will also be required for the development of the system and special equipment.

Consider the need for constant maintenance (cleaning) and increased water consumption.

Features of accommodation

If, after considering all the pros and cons, you still decide to build a pool in a bathhouse, then first of all you need to choose a place to place it. The bowl can be positioned as follows.

1. Directly in the steam room. Only a miniature version is possible here due to limited space. The only advantage of this arrangement can be considered the organization of the entire process in one room. The problem is maintaining the vapor environment. The sauna steam room uses dry heat, and therefore they do not plan to have a swimming pool there.
2. In the washing room. This is a fairly common option, especially if it was included in the original design of the bathhouse. In principle, the size of the washing room is not limited by operational features, and a pool (even a large one) can be built during the construction of a bathhouse. Water supply to this room is necessary in any case, which simplifies the solution to the communication issue.
3. In a separate room. This option is the most suitable for a large structure. In this case, the installation of a pool in a bathhouse does not depend on other systems, and it can be provided in accordance with all the rules. If there is not enough space, the pool is placed in an extension, with a separate entrance from any room of the bathhouse building, without access to the street.

The main conditions for a room where you can install a swimming pool: sufficient area, the possibility of water supply and sewerage, accessibility for maintenance (primarily cleaning).

Design features

If you are planning a swimming pool for a bathhouse, then you can install such structures with your own hands.

Stationary structures can be erected in the following options: recessed, semi-recessed and surface. In the first case, the bowl is located completely below ground level, and in the latter case, it rises above the floor. The semi-buried type occupies an intermediate position, i.e. a pit is dug, but top part the walls of the bowl rise above the floor covering.

Size selection

The size of the sauna pool depends on its location, the area of ​​the sauna, the chosen design, and when building an extension - on the size of the entire site. The main geometric parameters are the area, length and width, depth and height of the walls above the floor level. When choosing parameters, certain requirements must be taken into account.

The bottom of the pool should not reach the groundwater level. There should be a distance of at least 70–80 cm to them. To eliminate the risk of destruction of the foundation, the walls of the pool inside the bathhouse are removed from the foundation at a distance of at least 0.3 m. When placing the pool in an extension, it is moved away from the bathhouse foundation by more than 65–75 cm. The distance to other structures must be at least 1 m.

If it is possible to build large tanks, their size is limited only by the desire of the owner himself. This could be real swimming pool in a large elite bathhouse or a very tiny bowl in a small room. The following dimensions in a typical bathhouse are considered optimal: an area of ​​about 2.5 m²; length 1.7–2 m; width 1.2–1.6 m; depth 1.2–1.5 m. If a pool is being built with the ability to swim, then the length should exceed 4–4.5 m. The minimum dimensions of the bowl are chosen so that you can lie down in it and make at least small movements.

Hot tubs are not intended for swimming. A person immerses vertically in them or has the opportunity to sit down. Typically their volume is in the range of 400–2000 liters of water. The most common are small tanks with a capacity of about 600 liters.

Necessary materials

A stationary pool is most often made of concrete. The bottom of the bowl is filled with it, and then the walls are filled with formwork. The most common mortar recipe: cement (1 part), sand (2–3 parts), crushed stone (3–4 parts). To increase water resistance, liquid glass can be added to the solution.

The walls of a surface pool are often made of brick. In this case, it is important to ensure they are waterproof. To do this, apply a primer, waterproofing and cement-sand plaster with additives that increase water resistance.

An important category of materials necessary for arranging a swimming pool is waterproofing. It is applied both externally and inside walls and bottom. External protection should reliably protect against underground and flood waters, and internal waterproofing should prevent water from seeping out of the bowl. There are 2 main types of such materials: coating and roll insulation.

For a sauna pool you can use the following waterproofing materials:

• roofing felt - widely used for waterproofing the bottom from the outside;
• polyethylene film of increased thickness and strength;
• membrane-type films based on PVC, EPDM;
• mastics: Penetron, Calmatron, Xipex mixture and others - belong to the coating category with deep penetration;
• sodium bentonite in the form of mats;
• liquid rubber - with its help a layer of seamless waterproofing is applied;
• impregnating compositions with the ability to polymerize - the most widespread is liquid glass, which can be used as a coating sealant or added to concrete mortar;
• bitumen - has low cost and good waterproofing properties, but has insufficient durability; most often it is used in combination with other elements, for example, roofing felt.

Another group of materials for the pool is necessary for exterior finishing and decorative purposes. Such facing elements stand out in particular.

1. Ceramic tiles (tiles). In pool conditions, it does not have much durability, but despite this, it remains one of the most popular materials, because it provides a pleasant appearance and is easy to install with your own hands. It also attracts the possibility of simple repair of damaged elements.
2. Porcelain and glass mosaic. It is recognized as the best material for lining pools. It has high water resistance, wear resistance, strength, and a wide range of colors.
3. Polymer boards and films. PVC with a thickness of at least 3 mm is most often used.
4. Ready-made plaster mixture with an additive in the form of ceresite emulsion.

When making portable structures with your own hands, sheet plastic, metal, and rubber are used. A sufficiently spacious font can be built from ready-made containers - these are pallets, plastic and metal tanks.

Production at the construction stage of a bathhouse

It is best if a stationary pool is included in the initial design of the entire building. In this case, its foundation is laid already at the stage of building the foundation, and the finishing work is carried out together with the arrangement of the steam room, washing room, dressing room, etc. You can design a pool in any section of the bathhouse, but the best option is a separate room.

As a guide, use, as an option, this step by step plan construction of a permanent pool. Work begins with digging a pit. Its dimensions should exceed the length and width by 0.5–0.6 m on both sides, and the depth by 35–40 cm. Pipes for draining water are installed and a drain pipe with a diameter of at least 15 cm is installed.

The bottom of the pool is arranged in this order. A two-layer cushion is laid on the ground: a layer of sand 7–10 cm thick and a layer of gravel (crushed stone) 6–8 cm thick. The cushion is carefully compacted to form a slope towards the drain pipe. Metal rods are driven in along the entire perimeter of the pool walls (in the center of the future walls). The installation pitch is 30–40 cm. Steel reinforcement with a diameter of at least 14 mm is used. On top of the cushion, external waterproofing of the bottom is installed from rolled material or slabs, and reinforcing mesh is laid over the entire area from steel reinforcement. The grid cells are about 6–8 cm in size.

Filling the bottom with concrete is carried out in 2 stages. A first concrete layer 10–12 cm thick is poured onto the reinforcing mesh. Another reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it and a second concrete layer of the same thickness is poured. The poured concrete is left undisturbed for at least 16 hours for complete setting and hardening.

The construction of the pool walls begins with the installation of formwork along the entire perimeter of the structure. It is installed so that the vertical rods are located in the center. The required wall strength is achieved using a reinforcing frame. To do this, steel rods are laid horizontally in 3–4 rows and linked with vertical pins (steel wire with a diameter of 4–6 mm is used. Concrete is poured in layers 20–25 cm thick with thorough compaction using a vibrator.

Dismantling of the formwork can be done 2-3 days after pouring, when the material has gained its initial strength. Concrete care is provided for 6–7 days. To do this, periodic moistening is carried out (with an interval of 5–6 hours).

The final formation of the pool walls includes the application of the necessary protective elements. External waterproofing is installed on the outside. This technology is usually used. The outer side surface is covered with bitumen or deep penetration mastic. Then a layer of roofing material or thick plastic film is laid. The gap between the concrete and the ground is filled with soil, creating a natural “castle” by adding clay.

Particular attention is paid outside wall, which is always in sight. First of all, internal waterproofing is formed on it: coating with a waterproof compound or laying rolled material. Next, the entire surface is primed and the mounting mesh is laid.

The final arrangement of the pool includes plastering the walls from the inside using a ready-made waterproof mixture or a homemade cement-sand mortar with the addition of liquid glass. After this, communications are connected (sewage and water supply), the necessary equipment is installed and adjusted: pump, cleaning devices, heating elements, lighting system.

Features of installing a swimming pool in an existing bathhouse

In an already built bathhouse, it will be possible to build a stationary pool only if there is free space. You don’t have to look for it in the steam room, because this room is designed with optimal dimensions. But you can try to reconstruct the rest room or washing compartment.

The most acceptable type of pool in this case is the surface type. At the place of its installation (be sure to step back from the walls of the bathhouse at a distance of at least 30 cm), the floor covering is dismantled. A hole up to 40 cm deep is dug, a pillow is poured into it and the concrete base of the bowl is poured. The walls can be raised by pouring concrete into formwork or in the form of brickwork. In this design, drainage can be done by gravity into the existing system, but a pump is needed to fill it with water.

The construction of a stationary pool in an existing bathhouse causes a lot of problems, so a detachable structure is often chosen. This version of the frame type can be done as follows.

1. The concrete base is poured to install the pool bowl.
2. The frame of the bowl is made of wooden beams or metal profiles (pipe, corner). The shape can be either rectangular or round.
3. A thick PVC or rubber cover is pulled over the frame and securely fixed. You can weld plastic using a hair dryer.

The simplest option is to use a ready-made container. In particular, you can install a metal tray, carefully checking its tightness. A protective layer should be applied inside the tank by coating to prevent corrosion.

Principles of use and care

Improper use of the pool is fraught with serious consequences: destruction of the foundation; increased humidity in the room, leading to wood rotting and mold; the occurrence of unsanitary conditions hazardous to human health. To avoid such phenomena, the following requirements must be observed:

• preventing water leakage into the ground;
• availability of reliable ventilation;
• cleaning and disinfection;
• monitoring the lack of water in the bowl when the bath is idle;
• timely water replacement.

Proper operation of the pool requires periodic cleaning of the bowl. It is necessary to ensure timely removal of dirt, silt, mold, and fungal infections. Water can be poured into the bowl only after pre-cleaning, while ensuring its acid-base balance (pH should be 7.1–7.7). To completely purify the incoming water, special filters should be installed in the pool. Care is carried out independently using coagulants, algaecide, acid granules for hard (alkaline) water, universal tablets for swimming pools.

Fully ensures compliance sanitary standards carrying out chemical cleaning. It will require certain costs, but will make the use of the bowl safe for health. Chlorination is most often used in your own pool. To carry it out, special compounds are used (chlorine mass, shock chlorine, prolonged action chlorine, chlorine granules). You can carry out oxygen treatment yourself (for small pools). In this case, you will have to purchase containers with active oxygen.

High-quality water treatment, imparting beneficial properties to it, is ensured by more complex techniques. It is quite possible to use them in domestic conditions, but for this you will have to install special equipment. Among different ways Technologies such as ozonation, ultraviolet cleaning, and exposure to a magnetic field stand out.

It is very important not to create a risk of water stagnation. After completing the bath procedure, the liquid must be completely drained and the bowl dried. Water should be added immediately before use.

The question of whether a swimming pool is needed in a bathhouse does not have a clear answer. The owner himself is free to decide it based on his capabilities and needs. They set up a sauna pool both during the construction of a sauna and in an already built structure, and everything can be done with your own hands. With proper construction and proper care, all risks of negative impact on the bath structure will be eliminated.

The bathhouse is a great place to relax with the whole family or in the company of friends. Those who have a bathhouse built near a pond are lucky, as they can take a dip and cool down their steamed body after the steam room. Those who have a plot far from a lake or river are not familiar with such luxury, so the best option in such a situation is considered to be arranging a pool inside a bathhouse. This can be done in two ways: enlist the help of a team of professional builders, or build a pool with your own hands. The second option is more economical from a financial point of view, since the work of a team of builders is far from cheap, but in this case you will need more time and effort, as well as some knowledge.

In this article we will talk about the main types of pools and how to build each of them, we will give some tips and recommendations.

Types of pools

Before starting construction, it is necessary to select the type of pool that will correspond to the dimensions of the room itself where it is planned to be located, your personal preferences, as well as financial capabilities. There are several varieties, each of which we will look at in this article:

• Stationary. A swimming pool that is installed during the construction of the foundation of the bathhouse itself. This design is considered the most reliable, strong and durable, and for good reason, because this design is based on a reinforced concrete bowl, the construction of which requires excavation work and a separate foundation. These pools are either one and a half to two meters deep, or installed above the floor level. On average, construction takes about two months.

• Collapsible. This type is considered less stable and reliable, but the price of such a pool is several times lower, and installing it indoors or even outdoors is not difficult. Typically used by dacha owners who use the bathhouse only in the summer. You can install it directly on the lawn, partially or completely deepening it into the ground. Such a tank consists of walls, a bottom, which are covered with galvanized sheets, and a polyvinyl chloride cover, which ensures absolute tightness. Prefabricated pools can also include frame and inflatable pools.

• SPA Swimming Pool. Also known as a "jacuzzi". Unfortunately, you won’t be able to swim in it, since all SPA pools are small in size. It is sold ready-made in specialized stores. It is usually made of plastic, compressed polyethylene or fiberglass. It has special pumps and compressors for hydro- and aeromassage, LED lighting, an audio system, a control screen, and a tank for heating water. Naturally, all these functions affect the price, making a Jacuzzi not affordable for everyone. Installation will most often require the help of a specialist.

• Font. This is a small tank with a volume of 500 to 2,000 liters, made of wood or plastic. Since for wooden structure special care is required; recently, bathtubs made of plastic have become popular. Installation couldn’t be easier – just bring it, connect it, use it. Since it does not take up much space, the font is suitable for small baths.

Based on location, pools are divided into:

• Domestic. They are located in a separate room or in a washing room.
• External. They are installed in the yard, usually under a canopy, roof or in an extension.

Design

Once you have decided on the type of future pool, you can move on to the design stage. Take the drawing up of the drawing with special responsibility and scrupulousness, because the service life and overall quality of the future reservoir directly depend on its correctness. If you do not have drawing skills, then it is better to seek help from special design agencies or find detailed documentation on the Internet.

Ideally, the location of the pool should be chosen at the design stage, since excavation work is required for a stationary tank. If the bathhouse is planned to be large, then a separate room can be allocated for the pond.

The design of a bathhouse with a swimming pool must indicate all the nuances, from dimensions, shape and statistical calculations to design. Depending on where the pool will be located, inside the building or outside, the method of operation (one-season or year-round) and its care depends. Be sure to examine the soil on the site. The base of the tank must be located at a height of at least 1 meter from the groundwater level.

Since the water pressure on the foundation of the tank is high, it should not come into contact with the load-bearing walls of the bathhouse itself. The resulting space (60 -100 mm) is usually filled with sand, but more on that later.

After you have chosen a place, you need to decide what shape it will have and its dimensions. Please note that a pool with an elongated, round or curved shape will require more financial costs, as well as effort and time. If it is assumed that one person will use the bathhouse, then a pool with an area of ​​3x3 meters and 1.5 meters deep will be sufficient. And if you want to build a pond in which you can not only plunge, but also swim, then the length can be increased to 5-6 meters or more.

Don’t forget to check the location, shape, diameter and material of the pipes for the pool’s water supply, because for comfortable use of the tank, the water must constantly circulate and be clean, and special reagents will help with this, which can also be bought in special departments of construction markets.

At this stage, it is important to calculate the quantity and quality of the required building materials, in particular waterproofing, the load on the base of the pool, and total financial and labor costs. Think about what tools you will need during the construction of a reservoir, make a list of proposed work and a list of rules for further operation.

Required tools and materials

Construction work requires a set of certain tools; usually a standard set is sufficient:

• Tools for digging (shovel or special equipment);
• Building level;
• Roulette;
• Vibrating hammer;
• Boards for formwork;
• Fittings for reinforcing the bowl;
• Ready-made concrete solution grade W8 (has a dense structure and does not absorb moisture), or the necessary components for self-made(sand, concrete, crushed stone, water)
• Trowel or trowel;
• Waterproofing material (A polyethylene film about one centimeter thick with an acrylic coating is best suited, since this material prevents the growth of algae and is not subject to destruction due to chlorine. If desired, you can choose a more expensive modern analogue);
• Facing material (mosaic, porcelain tiles, special waterproof rolled materials);
• Metal fasteners (galvanized corners and so on);
• Other tools for cladding, small and decorative work.

Construction of a permanent pool

The construction of a capital pool consists of four main stages: excavation work, concreting the walls and floor, waterproofing and the last stage - finishing work.

Excavation

Once you have decided on the location of the pool, you can proceed directly to digging a pit. To avoid inaccuracies, it is necessary to mark the territory. To do this, use ordinary wooden pegs and thread. The pegs are placed in the corners and a thread is pulled between them.

The method by which they will dig a hole under the pool directly depends on its size and location, that is, if the reservoir is supposed to be indoors, then the equipment is unlikely to be able to get closer, then ordinary shovels are used.

It is also very important to decide what kind of stairs there will be for entering and exiting the water. This can be a separate structure of small size, which is mounted into the wall at the last stage, or concrete steps, which are made in one of the walls. Naturally, if free space is limited, then a separate staircase would be a better option.

The pit should exceed the width of the intended tank by 25-30 cm and the depth by 40-50 cm. The bottom is dug at a slight angle towards a drain pipe with a diameter of about 10 cm, which should connect to a pipe of the sewer system or drainage pit.

After this, a 5-10 cm layer of sand is poured onto the bottom, filled with a small amount of water and compacted tightly. The same layer of crushed stone is placed on top of the sand - it also needs to be compacted. This pillow will become the base for pouring the floor with concrete.

*Interesting! If desired, you can make external waterproofing of the base of the pool - lay a layer, for example, of roofing felt between a layer of crushed stone and concrete. It is necessary to overlap, preferably with a minimum number of seams.

Concreting

First of all, a 10 cm layer of concrete is poured on top of the crushed stone. If you create a cement mortar yourself, then for two parts of cement, it is recommended to take 1 part of finely sifted sand. For the floor you can use cement grade M100; for the walls you will need a higher quality cement, for example M400.

Simultaneously with filling the bottom, it is necessary to create a reinforced skeleton of the walls and bottom; for this, metal rods with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm are used. Vertical and horizontal rows are connected to each other using galvanized wire or welded. Vertical rods are installed in increments of 30 cm. The result should be a grid with cells of about 30 square centimeters.

After this, you need to let the first layer dry completely, this will take about 15 hours. Next, pour the next layer of cement mortar. There is no need to wait until it dries, as this may reduce the reliability of the structure. It is necessary to immediately install wooden formwork from boards or plywood. The walls must be filled, so to speak, in one sitting, that is, there should be no temporary pauses, so prepare the required amount of mortar in advance; to find out how much mortar is required, you need to multiply the perimeter of the walls by their thickness and height, obtaining the total volume. The thickness of the walls around the entire perimeter of the pool should be the same and be about 30 cm.

The walls are poured according to this scheme - pour a 30 cm layer of concrete, compact it tightly and repeat the procedure until the concrete level reaches the required upper limit. After this, all air must be removed from the solution. A vibrating hammer will help you with this. If this is not the case, then simply pierce the concrete in several places with ordinary reinforcement; later these holes must be filled. The formwork is removed after 5-7 days if the average daily temperature reaches 15-20 degrees Celsius. The lower the temperature, the longer you need to wait before removing the formwork.

After removing the formwork, you must wait about another month (28-30 days) for the concrete to completely harden, turning into a single monolith. During the first week, we wet the structure with water three times every day to avoid the appearance of cracks, chips and other defects.

Waterproofing

In order for the pool to serve you for many years, its walls must be insulated from water. The surface can be plastered or, for example, covered in several layers of liquid waterproofing, so that later the tiles can be installed on a special hydrophobic mixture. It is better to purchase plaster in a specialized department of construction markets. It is worth paying attention to a special sand-cement mortar with the addition of latex or silicone, then the plaster will be more elastic, waterproof and last much longer. The thickness of the cladding should be three to four centimeters. At this stage, if necessary, you can level the walls.

Finishing work

After you have completed the work of waterproofing the pool, it is time for the final stage, namely lining. For this purpose, three main materials are used: PVC film, mosaic and tile. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, for example, tiles are easy to install and cheaper than mosaics, but mosaics can be used to create incredible patterns and surprise your loved ones. And polyvinyl chloride film is considered the most economical and quickly installed option.

PVC material. The most popular material for finishing swimming pools nowadays is polyvinyl chloride film. The advantages of this material include: low price, high quality and strength, ease of maintenance and installation, complete environmental friendliness and resistance to chemical attack. If desired, you can buy PVC film with acrylic coating. Then the bottom will not slip.

We recommend not taking thin options. Ideally, the film thickness should be 3-4 mm. There are a small number of variations of this material, differing mainly in color. For use in a pool, a deep blue color is usually chosen. If you wish, you can buy film with the effect of mosaic, stone chips and many other options. PVC film consists of four layers. Between the second and third there is a synthetic mesh, which increases the strength of the material and its service life.

Mosaic. Quite an expensive pleasure. But the price is completely justified, since the mosaic, namely glass mosaic, which is used for lining pools, has a special fine-porous structure that does not absorb or allow moisture to pass through. The size of each is from 1 to 5 sq. cm. Naturally, if you have a huge tank, then you will not lay each tile manually. For this purpose, there are whole sheets of different sizes and colors that can be installed on almost any unevenness.

Tile. Great choice for large pools. For cladding, special porcelain tiles are used, since ordinary ceramic tiles have large pores in which dirt and debris can accumulate, and thus, such tiles will become a breeding ground for mold and various microorganisms.

When choosing tiles, pay attention to the moisture absorption coefficient. It should not exceed 3%, otherwise the tile will quickly “fail”. Porcelain tiles do not absorb moisture and are easy to install and clean. Resistant to the damaging effects of chlorine and other cleaning chemicals. We advise you to choose a material with an uneven, rough surface, as it will be less slippery than its smooth counterparts.

The last stage after construction is the decorative treatment of the pool, the selection and installation of equipment for filtration, purification and water circulation. In general, there is still a lot to do.

Construction of a stationary brick version

Another good option is to build a permanent pool made of brick. To do this you will need:

• Solid red ceramic brick;
• Coarse, sifted sand;
• Crushed stone;
• Gravel;
• Ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 1.5 cm;
• Concrete grade M400;
• Geotextile membrane;
• Water-repellent additive for mortar;
• Liquid glass;
• Antiseptic substance;
• Primer;
• Some more materials that will be discussed further.

Excavation

The excavation work is identical to that carried out during the construction of a reinforced concrete bowl for a stationary pool:

1. We mark the territory and dig a pit 40-50 cm deep than the expected depth of the bowl. Next, a drain pipe is installed, the soil is compacted tightly at a slight angle towards the drain
2. A layer of geotextile is laid. On top of it is a twenty-centimeter layer of crushed stone. If the groundwater is close to the base of the pool, then it is worth securing drainage pipes along the edges of the hole. We compact it.
3. Pour a layer of sand (10 cm), moisten it with a small amount of water and compact it tightly.

Concreting

1. A layer (10 cm) of waterproofing membrane is laid on top with an overlap. We seal the seams with construction tape, the edges should slightly overlap the walls.
2. We create a reinforcement belt in increments of several centimeters. The result should be a reinforced mesh with cells of 4-5 square centimeters.
3. Pouring concrete mortar. Let it dry for two weeks.
4. When constructing brickwork, each row must be sealed with a metal mesh (five millimeters). At this step, water pipes are installed.

Waterproofing and finishing works

1. We plaster the walls with a latex-based solution. Apply a layer of primer and then an antiseptic. We attach the painting mesh and repeat the process.
2. We install additional elements (injectors, drain, etc.).
3. We paint the walls with rubber paint for greater insulation from moisture. We carry out interior finishing work (it is best to use glass mosaics, as unevenness and other wall defects can be easily eliminated).
4. We carry out external waterproofing. We use a water-repellent mixture.
5. We insulate the walls of the pool from the outside. We use polystyrene foam blocks. Pay attention to the density of the insulation - it should be 40 or more kilograms per square meter.
6. We glue the resulting gaps with construction tape or use a water-repellent solution.
7. We fill the space between the walls of the pool and the soil. A mixture of sand and gravel is best suited for this purpose.

• If you decide to install a pool of a prefabricated structure, then it should be located on a floor that is not afraid of moisture, that is, the bathhouse has a wooden floor, then you need to install porcelain tiles on top of it, or simply cover the floor directly under the pool and around it with plastic film .
• Since wooden hot tubs need to be looked after and washed so that they do not get wet or dry out, it is better to use modern plastic analogues. Nowadays they are produced in a wide variety of shapes, colors and types. Moreover, in some companies you can order a plastic tank for an individual project. It can be installed directly on the surface, partially or completely recessed. Plastic is easy to clean, mold does not grow on it, and it is completely sealed as it has no seams.
• It is important to think in advance whether your pool will be equipped with various kinds of decorative elements, such as artificial slides, waterfalls, lighting, and so on.
• Provide convenient exit and entry into the water. Secure the area around the water. Wear rubber slippers and swim in a special swimming cap.

Let's summarize

Now that you have received enough information and have an idea about the stages and options of construction and cladding, you can begin to build your own pool. Good luck!

The pool in the bathhouse gives you the opportunity to plunge into a plunge pool with pleasantly cooling water after a hot steam room. A real dream for any private home owner! And it is quite possible to build it with your own hands. The main thing is to know how.

Stationary bathing structures are considered the most durable and durable. They are made of reinforced concrete. Such pools are placed on a foundation prepared for them in a specially dug hole. Stationary bowls can be ground or dug-in. They come in any geometric size. You can also choose their depth.

Fixed pool design

The second type of pools is prefabricated structures. As a rule, their base is made of polyvinyl chloride, which is characterized by low weight and excellent strength. Such structures are easy to install and no less easy to disassemble if necessary. They are distinguished by a unique variety of shapes and geometric parameters. It is also important that they are quite affordable.

If you want to get the most modern swimming pool in a bathhouse, turn your attention to the currently popular hydromassage facilities. They are called spa structures. They allow you to completely relax after the bathhouse and receive a high-quality massage. True, you won’t be able to swim in such pools; they are too small for that. SPA facilities do not require complex installation; they are sold in special stores in a completely ready-to-use form.

In cases where a person does not have the funds to build a large swimming pool, or the area of ​​the bathhouse in his house is very small, he can also make mini-fonts for refreshment after the steam room. They are made from fiberglass, acrylic, wooden barrels and tanks with a capacity of up to 1.5 thousand liters.

It is best to make a similar mini-pool from wood. Wood species such as larch, beech, and oak are suitable for these purposes. But you will have to regularly and seriously care for wooden hot tubs. If you are not ready for this, purchase fiberglass mini-pools. There are never any special problems with their operation.

Having chosen the type of pool that you plan to build, decide what time of year it will be used (permanently or exclusively in the summer). And also decide where its construction will be carried out (indoors or outdoors). Then start designing the font.

You need to draw up a plan in which you indicate the shape and parameters of your future pool, think over its design, draw up a diagram of the supply and drainage of water to the structure.

Pool project

The project should be drawn up as responsibly as possible. With a competent pool construction plan, you can:

• decide on the design details of the bathhouse;
• correctly calculate the static and dynamic pressure on the structure bowl;
• create ideal conditions for safe and comfortable use of the pool;
• determine the required equipment and utility networks;
• correctly install the embedded elements.

In addition, the project allows you to calculate in advance the amount of materials needed to complete installation activities. This means that you will initially know how much it will cost you to build a pool. It is important. Often people start building a font, and then abandon construction work due to lack of money.

Experts advise building a swimming pool in a bathhouse with your own hands using ready-made designs. They are freely available on the Internet. It’s even better to order the development of design documentation specifically for your facility from a specialized company. Such plans immediately stipulate all the details of the installation of the pool; they have hydraulic diagrams and all the necessary calculations. It’s not at all difficult to build a font of any size using them yourself.

The first step is digging a pit. This work is carried out according to a previously drawn up plan. In this case, the depth of the pit is taken to be approximately 0.4 m greater than the value specified in the project, and the width and length - 0.5 m greater. It is important right away:

• make a slight slope at the bottom of the pit;
• lay the pipe towards the sewer system or drainage pit (they need to be installed at a distance of 5–10 m from the bathhouse);
• Place the drain pipe in the deepest part of the future pool.

The process of digging a pit

Then at the bottom of the hole you need to make a special pie - pour 5 cm of construction sand, compact this layer, add 10 cm of medium (or better yet fine) crushed stone on top and also compact it. The latter operation is usually performed using a wooden tamper.

A 10-centimeter layer of concrete (3 parts sand and 1 cement) is poured onto a well-compacted cake. After this, a mesh of reinforcing rods is laid on top of the mixture. It is necessary to pour another layer of concrete on it (the thickness is still the same 10 cm). It is advisable to use W-8 concrete. It is ideal for swimming pools, as it has a dense structure and optimal water absorption.

The walls of a homemade bathhouse font should also be concreted. It is advisable to perform this operation simultaneously with strengthening the bottom of the pool. You need:

• mount shields on the concreted bottom of the pit;
• install reinforcing mesh;
• Concreting wall surfaces.

Construction of pool walls

The last procedure must be carried out so that the bottom and wall surfaces of the structure under construction form a single structure. This can be easily achieved if, during the process of strengthening the walls, you constantly bayonet the concrete mixture with a metal rod and immediately compact it. With this approach, there are guaranteed to be no seams between the bottom and the walls of the font.

Note! Concreting should be done in separate portions of the mixture. In this case, the operation is carried out without long interruptions. We poured one portion, made the next one, and used that immediately. Concrete is applied to the bottom and walls in a layer of equal thickness. It is usually approximately 0.2–0.25 m.

It is also important to carry out an operation aimed at removing air bubbles from the concrete before the solution hardens. The easiest way to do this is to use a special vibrating hammer.

Complete hardening of concrete is observed after 30–35 days. At this time, you need to wet the walls and bottom of the font with water every few days. This procedure will protect the structure from the appearance of cracks caused by drying out of the mixture.

After the concrete has dried, dismantle the formwork and begin processing the completed structure. You need to properly plaster the walls of your homemade font. This can be done with latex waterproof mixtures. They are applied in a thin layer (up to 2.5 cm). It is also possible to do a regular concrete screed on the walls. But when using latex plaster, the internal surfaces of the structure acquire additional water resistance, which is important for the further use of the bowl.

The surface (inner) of the pool must be waterproofed. In domestic conditions, this is usually done using PVC film. They simply line the pool with it. This waterproofing option is quick and very inexpensive. But it does not provide the highest protection.

Waterproofing the pool with film

A better result is achieved by creating a special cake from several layers of waterproofing materials, as well as. Often, special adhesive solutions containing latex are used to protect pools from moisture.

You can also reduce the permeability of concrete pavement using a homemade mixture of ceresite emulsion, cement and sand. A liter of ceresite is diluted with 10 liters of ordinary water, and then the resulting composition is poured into a mixture of sand and cement (3 to 1). The mixture is spread over a well-wetted concrete surface and rubbed with a trowel. Then you need to use a grater to level the protective composition as thoroughly as possible.

The interior surfaces of the pool are most often covered with special porcelain tiles. It looks great on the walls of a home bathhouse and is characterized by high density. Due to this, it practically does not absorb water, which distinguishes porcelain products from standard ceramics.

Pool finishing with mosaic

Let us note another important property of porcelain tiles. Their surface is rough, which means you can make a swimming pool in a bathhouse with your own hands and know for sure that the risk of slipping in it will be minimal. The cost of porcelain tiles is quite high (about $30 per square), but its performance benefits fully justify such costs.

You can save on cladding if you use PVC film to finish the pool. Such products are made with four layers, between which a synthetic heavy-duty mesh is placed. PVC films for home pools are not afraid of chemical influences, their surface is quite rough, they can be washed and cleaned without problems, and are also highly resistant to the appearance of harmful bacteria and microbes in the pool.

The third cladding option is cast glass mosaic. This material is durable, dense and has a high water resistance. Mosaic products are usually used by lovers of beauty and non-trivial design solutions. Small decorative pieces make it possible to “paint” any pictures and patterns on the walls of the pool. Imagine and create original patterns in your sauna font!