How to properly put a rubber bait on a hook. Equipment for silicone baits. There are three basic rules for worm baiting

N baits, well, where would you go fishing without them? Right choice bait largely determines how successful the fishing will be. In many ways, but not all! Of no small importance is the correct attachment of the bait that was chosen for a particular fishing trip. There are many options and subtleties when attaching bait of animal origin, and there are many baits. Let's look at the most common ones:

1. MAGGOG

ABOUT parash is the larva of a blue or blowfly (they differ only in size, the larva of a blue fly is larger), enjoys well-deserved popularity among fishermen. And rightfully so! The bait is very effective for most reservoirs when catching peaceful fish, especially when fishing with a wire. The number of maggots that are attached to the hook depends on the fish you are going to catch, on its size and activity. The larger and more active it is, the more maggots need to be planted. The size of the hook is selected according to the nozzle, it must be made of thin wire, preferably with a short shank and, of course, sharp. The main thing is that the maggot does not cover the hook tip; it will be difficult to hook a fish through the maggot. Hook point must be naked, this will not affect the catch, although there is an opinion that the fish may get pricked and move away. It is necessary to check the position of the maggot on the hook every time you cast the tackle. Place the maggot carefully and only by the skin; the planted maggot should move. If the hook does not pierce the maggot, then either change the hook or sharpen it!

2. WORM

D earthworm, earthworm or dungworm, no less than maggot is a popular bait of animal origin, if not the most popular. The popularity of bait is due not only to its effectiveness, but also to its availability. Almost all the fish that live in our country bite on it. And not only peaceful fish, there are frequent cases of catch and predator. Bait options vary depending on the size of the worms and the number of worms that are attached to the hook. A small worm is pierced with a hook in 2 places, a larger one - in 3 places. But this is if the worm is single. If you want to put several worms on the hook, for example three, then you need to place them on the fishing line. To do this, two worms, as usual, are pierced in 3 places and pulled onto the fishing line, and when the third worm is planted, the two previously planted ones are pulled down a little.

H The worm is softer than maggot, so its location above the hook tip does not affect the hooking in any way. If there is only one worm, but a large one, for example, a creeper, then it is mounted in exactly the same way as if it were several smaller worms, i.e. pierced with a hook in several places. It is necessary to pay attention that when attaching the worm there were no long ends sticking out, it is from them that the fish will begin to bite, and it is quite possible that the bite may turn out to be empty. And the little fish will constantly pay attention to them and tug at the bait.

3. Bloodworm

M otyl - mosquito larva - jerk. Lives in most of our reservoirs. From there it lathers up. The body of the larva is red and consists of clearly visible constituent particles. Small bloodworms - 10-12 mm, large ones - 20-25 mm. Small bloodworms are used for baiting fish, large ones for fishing. The hook size used is No. 2.5-4 according to Russian numbering (18-24 according to foreign numbering), made of thin wire. It is better if it is without a beard, so it will injure the bloodworm less, although there will be a little more removal. Most often, bloodworms are planted from the side of the dark head- pass the sting a little lower and bring it to the head. This way you can plant one or several larvae, depending on the fishing conditions.

D To hold the bloodworm on the hook, a thin rubber cambric is sometimes used, which is attached to the shank of the hook. Unlike maggots, bloodworms are less tenacious, very susceptible to damage to the delicate shell, are poorly stored, and cannot tolerate either overheating or hypothermia. But it has one big advantage over other baits - it lives in most reservoirs and is a natural food for fish, which means a bite with such bait is guaranteed.

4. BUG

AND uk is an excellent bait for chub, roach, and rudd. Beetles (and not only May beetles) are good because they can be used both on the surface of the water and in the water column, while remaining alive. They impale him at the junction of the elytra and the head, so the beetle remains alive for a long time, and at the same time remains suspended from the strongest place. Hook size is used No. 6-10 according to Russian numbering. It is important for the fisherman that beetles can be stored for a long time. Beetle larvae with a worm-like white or yellowish body are often used for bait. And here it is important that the hard head of the mounted larva does not interfere with the hook tip.

5. CARDS FLY

R Uchenik is the larva of a large meadow butterfly in a small shell, 20-25 mm long. The shell consists of small solid particles covering the bottom of the reservoir. Depending on the structure of the bottom, the shell may look like a stick or a lump of sand. It lives both in streams with running water and in reservoirs with standing water. The larva has a delicate body and a dense head, so you need to carefully remove the larva from its house. Excellent bait for those fish and in the pond where the caddisfly was collected. It does not store well, for several days at most. The hook size used is No. 12-14 according to foreign numbering.

6. "SANDWICH"

AND They catch it with a “sandwich” when it is necessary to intensify the bite, when its individual components (maggots, worms, bloodworms, etc.) bite worse than their combination. There is always a chance that the fish will like some combination of baits better. The most common “sandwich” is a combination of maggot and bloodworm, first we plant the maggot, then the bloodworm. Combinations, i.e. “sandwiches”, there are many, both with attachments of animal and plant origin, each has the right to exist in a certain body of water at a certain time when the bite is bad. Guess what exactly the fish will like in this moment, It's hard enough. Therefore, experiments with a combination of attachments can give quite tangible results.

M We have only looked at a small portion of the possible baiting options for popular animal baits. And how many other less common, but no less effective baits are there for specific bodies of water and specific fish! Try, experiment and successful fishing is guaranteed!

Happy fishing!

One of the best varieties The bait for the inhabitants of the reservoir is maggots. The larva is popular among fishermen due to its availability and ease of use. It is most effective to use a tandem of maggots and bloodworms as bait for catching large fish. The bait does not lose its effectiveness at any time of the year; it is very good to use to attract trophy specimens. There are many popular methods for placing maggots on a hook. To choose the right one, it is necessary to take into account the fishing conditions in a particular body of water.

The bait is a blowfly larva with a dense, leathery covering, which ensures its unhindered movement and existence in a fairly aggressive environment. If this cover is broken, the maggot as bait loses its value; it simply “flows out” and turns into something like a translucent “stocking”. It is important not to damage this dense shell. A correctly installed larva remains mobile longer and maintains its integrity even after repeated use.

The head of the bait has a pointed shape, its tip is dark in color. Its back part, on the contrary, is blunt, and at the end there are two small black dots. The length of the larvae does not exceed 4-12 mm. They appear from eggs laid by bluish-green flies on pieces of meat or fish.

When in comfortable living conditions, blowfly larvae can remain at this stage of development for 10-14 days, then the pupation period begins. If you keep the bait in the refrigerator, its shelf life is extended to six months.

What is the attractiveness of maggots for fish?

The value of fly larvae is their high content of useful microelements, in particular protein. It is especially good to use such bait for catching crucian carp, perch, carp, large roach, rudd, and bream. The main thing is that the bait on the hook looks natural, wriggles and exudes a characteristic smell that underwater inhabitants like so much.

Now it is necessary to carry out the correct installation of silicone baits. It seems nothing complicated, but there are many nuances and features that depend on the type of hook and type of bait. And if you don’t know how to properly install silicone primaka, then let’s figure it out.

The simplest and most affordable installation, but it has a number of negative aspects, which is why many fishermen do not like to use it. The fact is that these jig heads often have a lead spike on the shank of the hook, which serves to ensure that the bait does not fly off or dangle. At the same time, it severely damages the bait, which is why it can only be changed a few times.

Another disadvantage of this type of installation of silicone baits is that the hook is rigidly connected to the sinker and has no freedom, which is why baits with passive play (worms, slugs) are not suitable for us. With such heads it is necessary to use baits that have an active game (twisters and vibrotails).

First of all, we need to choose a hook that will fit the size of the bait. If the bait has a clearly defined body and tail, then take a hook that will come out where the body of the bait ends.

It is a little more difficult with those baits that do not have a clearly defined tail. In this case, we choose a hook that will be equal to half its length.

When installing silicone baits, we attach the hook to the body of the bait and look where the sting should come out, remembering this place (the exit point can be marked with a marker or pricked with a hook). Then we pierce the head of the bait along the axis and thread the hook to the place where it should come out. Then we remove it from the body of the bait. The point of the hook should come out from the back of the bait, not from the belly. By the way, if this is your first time doing this, then don’t be upset that you miscalculated the symmetry a little or went too deep, a little practice and everything will work out.

To equip small baits, small hooks are used, the shanks of which, as a rule, do not have a spike. In order to prevent our bait from dangling and flying off, you need to make such a clamp yourself. To do this, take a thin copper wire and apply it to the shank of the hook, leaving a small tip, and wrap the shank of the hook in a spiral as tightly as possible. We bend the remaining end as in the picture.

Recently, on sale, you can find jig heads with wire wound around the fore-end, which is very convenient, because with such installation of silicone baits, the rubber tears much less.

When purchasing jig heads, you must take into account that from different manufacturers, hooks with the same numbering may have different sizes. For comparison, the photo shows two hooks with the size 5/0 stated on the package.

More than once, with passive fish, a situation has been noticed when there are bites, as evidenced by teeth on silicone and other damage, but the fish does not want to be detected. In this case, it is necessary to equip our bait with an additional tee or double. How to plant silicone bait in this case?

We need a double or tee equipped with a swivel, which is adjusted to the height of the bait’s body. We attach the hook of the jig head to the body of the bait and mark the exit point, then thread the hook through the head of the bait along the axis. We insert the swivel into the body of the bait, having previously marked the point where the hook tip will pass through the swivel ring. We pass the point of the hook through the ring of the swivel and bring it out. Apply a drop of glue to the gap where the swivel entered.

You can also attach a tee using wire as shown in the figure.

Hinged mounting

Hinged mounting of silicone baits has a number of advantages over rigid connections. Firstly, with this installation, the silicone bait receives a greater degree of freedom and its play becomes more realistic. Secondly, this design allows you to better penetrate the wind and send the tackle over longer distances. Hinged installations use single, double, triple and offset hooks.

The most common is installation using an eared sinker, called “Cheburashka” by fishermen. The sinker can be either collapsible or non-collapsible. The collapsible eared sinker allows you to quickly pull out the reinforcement to which the hook is attached and quickly change the nozzle. Unfortunately, with low-quality sinkers, this reinforcement may fall out during fishing.

A non-separable eared weight is connected to the hook through a winding ring; this installation is more reliable, which is why it is practiced when catching trophy fish. Also, the use of a winding ring gives the bait more freedom when playing, but worsens its passability.

A jig-rig works well in silty areas. This installation uses an elongated sinker that is connected to the main line and hook through a winding ring. As a result, when retrieving, the bait is not completely buried in the silt.

Installation of silicone baits on double hooks

We place the bait in the left hand so that its head is facing away from us, and we turn the hook with a bend towards the body of the bait. Then we look at the distance at which the hook tip should come out (in the center of the bait’s body). We place the double so that the left hook points in the direction of the head of the bait, and with the right hook we pierce it through the center and bring it to the eye of the double. We unfold it and make sure that the forend of the double is clearly aligned with the axis of the bait, and push it into the body of the bait, so that the double ring comes out exactly along the axis.

How to attach a silicone bait to an offset hook

Installing silicone baits with help allows you to create a “non-snag” tackle, which will have maximum maneuverability among snags, stones and aquatic vegetation.

We pierce the tip of the hook with the tip of the bait, exactly along the axis, driving the sting 3-4 mm into the body of the bait and then take it out, paying attention to the fact that the sting and tail should be directed downwards. Then we stretch the head of the bait to the beginning of the forend of the offset machine and turn it over, as a result, the head of the bait is fixed on the step. We measure the place where the hook should come out and pierce the belly of the bait, then remove the tip of the hook from silicone.

When installing the bait, do not be afraid to bend the silicone. To give the bait non-snagging properties, we insert an offset tip into its back.

In order for your bait to stay well on the hook and not fall off, you can use Final-keeper. Plastic keepers have a cylindrical protrusion at the bottom and a groove at the top. In order to screw it into the bait, we take the keeper with the groove up and insert it into the nose of the bait exactly along the axis. Afterwards, insert a sharper hook into the keeper’s hole and repeat the well-known procedure. The clasp of the Cheburashka, or winding ring, is threaded into the eye of the hook.

You can find final keepers in the form of springs with a long ear.In order to equip the silicone bait, we also take and screw the spring exactly along the axis. Then we string the silicone onto the hook using the method known to us. And in order to attach a clasp or a winding ring to the hook, we pass them not only through the eye of the hook, but also through the eye of the spring

Mounting on jig head with treble hook

Jig heads with a treble hook and equipped with a corkscrew are available for sale. This installation of silicone baits is quite simple. First, we screw a corkscrew into the body of the bait along its axis. Then we pin one of the hooks of the tee into the body of the bait from above. With this type of rig, catching pike perch with a jig is especially effective.

Mounting the bait at one edge

Such installation of silicone baits is used by fishermen during periods of weak bite, and can significantly increase the number of bites due to greater freedom when playing the bait, although the number of empty bites will also increase, since it will become more difficult to detect fish.
There are three ways to attach a silicone bait:

  • Pass the hook along the axis of the bait and bring it out a little lower;
  • Hook from below and move the sting along the axis of the bait;
  • Hook from one side and pull out through the other;

Installation of silicone bait "EIGHTS"

This type of rig is used when fishing with special thick silicone worms called “VEKI”. In the absence of such, you can use ordinary worms, the main thing is that the rubber is durable.

When installing the bait, the hook tip pierces the silicone worm in the middle. As a result, during the retrieve, two hanging edges of the worm play, luring the fish. This installation has an addition, when a metal peg is inserted into one of the edges, and the opposite one is placed on the hook tip along the axis of the bait. In this case, one end lies on the bottom, and the second, with light pulls with the rod, rises and plays.

This is how Americans catch bass (largemouth perch); in our country, this type of bait installation can be used when catching pike, perch, or trophy peaceful fish. This non-standard technique allows you to diversify the game and can bring results when other baits give up.

Spaced montages

These include:

  • Drop shot;
  • Moscow equipment;
  • Texas and Carolina;

Drop shot works well in muddy areas, since the hook can be located 30-70 cm from the sinker. Installation is quite simple. We take a piece of fishing line 1 m long and knit a sinker at one end with a clinch knot, then pass the hook and determine the height at which it will be located. The hook is knitted at a distance of 30-70 cm from the load, although the most common attachment point is a distance of 40-50 cm. The hook is knitted with a Palomar knot. The equipment is connected to the main line using a swivel or the same Palomar knot.

Also, with the help of a drop shot, you can fish one specific area for a long time.

Moscow equipment has a branch of 30-150 cm, on which the nozzle is located, making it very effective on reservoirs with a current, which gives the bait an interesting game.

When fishing in strong places it is worth using Caroline or Texas equipment in combination with an offset hook. With this installation of silicone baits, our tackle receives maximum permeability through algae, snags and rocky areas.

Video installation of silicone baits


Today we talked about how to attach a silicone bait and touched a little on the topic of installing jig rigs. And don’t forget to share your experience in the comments.

Jig heads are designed for loading spinning baits. Despite the apparent simplicity of these sinkers, from correct selection The predator's bite largely depends on it. Therefore, a fisherman’s spinning box should have a rich assortment of weight heads of various weights and shapes.

Types of jig heads

All load heads for spinning fishing can be divided into two types:

  • combined with a hook;
  • cast separately.

The most simple option is the head, cast together with the hook. Such models are usually called jig heads. They are large and heavy jigs, equipped with a ring and a lock. The ring is located at right angles to the fore-end, and the stopper prevents the soft bait from slipping and turning.

Jig head clamps can have the following types:

  • thorn (needle);
  • mushroom (umbrella);
  • arrow.

Difference in Shape

Jig heads can come in a wide variety of shapes. Their names largely explain their appearance:

  • rugby (ball);
  • "digger";
  • fish head;
  • bullet;
  • spoon;
  • ski;
  • boot;
  • banana;
  • Vanka-Vstanka;
  • horseshoe.

The head weight can be made without a hook. Then a hinge joint is used to connect the sinker and the hook. Individual heads are manufactured in three types:

  • eared sinker (“Cheburashka”);
  • lentils.

Despite the variety of jig head shapes, the main parameter when selecting is weight. It is the weight of the sinker and bait that determines the horizon of the rig’s passage.

For fishing in standing and shallow reservoirs, heads weighing 1-15 g are used. For river fishing, as well as in reservoirs with great depths(more than 5 m) requires jig heads weighing up to 40 g.

Non-hook jig heads

When fishing for predatory fish in thickets of aquatic vegetation, snags, or near fallen trees, unhooked baits come to the aid of the angler. Some head shapes (spoon, rugby, horseshoe, boot) are less likely to hook due to the vertical position of the hook when dropped and stepped wiring. Other jig heads have an elongated shape (banana, ski), thereby reducing the likelihood of a side hook.

To give the jig head additional protective qualities against snags, wire “fuses” are installed, which are easily compressed by the fish’s mouth, exposing the hook tip. The number of empty bites increases, but it is possible to keep the bait from breaking off.

Equipment options

Twisters on an offset hook with a Cheburashka as a jig head

Depending on the type of weight head and the type of hook, different installation options are used. How to properly place bait on a hook:

  1. A jig head combined with a hook allows you to quickly and easily attach a soft bait to a hook. To do this, you need to select a jig head and a silicone fish so that the hook comes out near the dorsal fin of the fish.
  2. A non-hook jig can be made on an offset hook. To do this, the hook tip is inserted through the “mouth” of the bait and brought out under the lower jaw. Now the soft fish is pulled through the entire hook, and the abdomen is pierced with a stinger. The hook can be brought out at the top of the bait so that the sting is parallel to the back and fits snugly against it.
  3. To mount the bait on a double hook, you need to align it with the bait and mark where the hooks exit. Now you need to pierce this place, move the double apart and insert the bait into the eye of the hook. Next, the ear is pressed centrally into the body towards the head. The eye is brought out, after which the bait on the hook is adjusted.
  4. To equip a tee with soft bait, you may need a tube to punch a neat hole. The hole is made approximately behind the gills, but this depends on the size of the tee and the bait. An ear is inserted into the hole and pulled through the center towards the mouth. Now you need to stretch the bait and remove one hook from the other side. Again, you carefully need to stretch the fish and thread the upper sting through the back. You can lengthen a short hook using a piece of wire; one end is attached to the eye of the hook, and the other is removed from the bait and mounted to the weight head.

Jig heads can be used not only with soft baits, but also with spoons, wobblers and spinnerbaits. It is important to mount the bait correctly and accurately select the weight of all equipment. Then the bait will work seductively in the desired layer of water, and predatory fish will not leave her unattended.

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Offset hooks - types and correct installation of baits on an offset hook

Due to my line of work, I have to communicate quite often with different fishermen...

And from conversations I am surprised to understand that quite a large number of people still do not know how to properly mount bait on an offset hook.

It would seem that there is so much talk about offset hooks, so many articles... but if you think about it, I haven’t seen a simple article with photographs on how to properly put a bait on an offset hook.

Well, let's fill this gap. Below is my personal opinion regarding the offset topic. I don’t insist on 100% coverage of this topic, I’ll just share my personal experience.

Offset hooks - a brief theory on offset hooks.

“Ofsetnik” is Russian fishing slang. Derived from the English “offset hook”.

Basically, rubber (silicone baits) - twisters, vibrating tails, etc. - are mounted on offset hooks.

Here classic look mounted bait on an offset hook(don’t remember, the installation is incorrect

The task of the offset hook is to ensure the installation of soft bait in a non-snaking version. That is, it is “unhooked” for baits.

Offsetters have problems with fish detection.

Many people criticize offset hooks:

— Some fishermen DO NOT catch snags, but they don’t catch fish either

- and for some, on the contrary, there are solid hooks.

In fact, if you mount the offset hook correctly, you will catch the fish “as it should” - you rarely catch snags, but you accurately catch the fish.

Practice - How to properly put rubber on an offset hook.

Here are two offset hooks from the same manufacturer. Only the series differ. Can you find the differences?

Well, yes, they differ slightly in size... but in our example this is not significant.

Something else is fundamentally important!

Look at the difference between these offset printers:

Look where the offset hook tip is pointing!

Hook No. 1 has a sting clearly on the forend. And at hook No. 2 - a little higher.

And this small difference creates a huge difference in the installation of baits and engagement!

Look, I took a twister with a thin body and put it on offset machine No. 2:

As you can see - the sting is sticking out!

And no matter how hard you try to lift the twister up, it will still stick out. Which means - cling to snags.

But the same twister is on hook No. 1

alt=”Offset hooks-types and correct installation of baits on the offset machine” />

Everything is perfect - the offset hook lies flat on the body of the twister without sticking out.

So, then - offset hook No. 2 - wrong?

NO! It's just for a different tire. For twisters and vibrotails with a “higher” body!

Like this:

Remember this difference and you can choose an offset hook for a specific tire in the store.

Of course, offset workers have other nuances, such as the bend of the forend, the shape of the hook itself, the width of the eye, the thickness of the wire etc., but you understand the main subtlety.

So, step by step we put the twister on the offset hook:

Step 1: pierce the twister from the end. We insert it inward and bend it at a right angle (marked with a red line).

alt=”Offset hooks-types and correct installation of baits on the offset machine” />

Why do we make such a bend? We simply follow the (Z-shape) curve of the front segment of the offset hook shank.

It turns out like this:

Step 2: We stretch the twister to the shank of the hook, repeating the Z-shaped bend and pull it towards the “eye”

Step 3. Trying the twister on the hook (actually this should have been done in advance)

We need to understand - where is the best place to pierce the body of the twister?

The red line indicates the intended puncture site.

BUT! Rubber can be hard or soft.

AND By changing the puncture location, we can tighten or loosen the installation of the twister on the offset hook.

It is important!

If the rubber is hard, and if you pull it too hard, it will be difficult for the fish to push through the rubber.

And if the rubber is soft, and you put it on without tension, then any touch of the snag threatens to snag.

Step 4 We pierce the twister

BUT! We pierce perpendicular to the twister body(direction of puncture shown in red)

Why? Just look at how the twister is positioned later and you will understand...

Well, the twister itself is mounted on an offset hook. It's very simple, isn't it?

We check the quality of the offset press installation:

— when running your finger along the body of the twister, it should not catch

— when you apply slight pressure on the body of the twister, it should bend.

Installation errors:

Sticking a hook into the body of the twister is not worth it!

When biting, the twister is pressed. And he should press through, releasing the offset hook tip.

And if you stick the point of a hook into the body of a twister, will the hook be able to pierce rubber and fish? Is not a fact…

Well, if you want the sting to be hidden in the body of the bait, then you can cut a small groove in the rubber body for the hook.

I don't really like this solution, but many people do it.

By the way, there are also factory silicone lures with grooves on the back:


On the issue of piercing - some fishermen do “unhooked” jig head. Like this:


In my opinion, this is complete bullshit.

If the sting is hidden in the body, it will be difficult to detect fish. If the sting sticks out, then it’s not unhooked at all...

And here's another one - classic shape of offset hooks. But I absolutely don't like:

Or maybe I don’t understand something... but for proper installation, the body of the bait must be very high.

But if it's high then it's bottom will be on the hook. So?

Then, when biting, where will the rubber be pressed?

In general, I don’t use it and don’t recommend it.

Should I bend the offset hook or not?

If the silicone bait does not want to be beautifully mounted on the offset hook, then you can bend the offset hook itself (point the sting slightly downward)

This does not add strength to the offset machine, so I did not advise you to do this :)

But as a last resort - bend...

Which offset hooks do I like?

For example, the hook shapes that are in examples No. 1 and 2.

There are many companies that make them. I try not to skimp on offset hooks, I take quality Owner, Gamakatsu.

Although sometimes Korean offset workers are very decent.

Here's another cool form. The hook tip will lie clearly on the body of the bait, even pressing slightly.

About the use of offset hooks.

Offsetters open up new opportunities! Fish where you were previously afraid

First, of course, jig. Jig is fishing along the bottom, along the relief.

And as a rule, it turns out like this: snags = predator, sharp edge = predator... well, you understand... It happens that you can’t go anywhere without an offset hook.

There are even foam fish on offset hook. Company Contact, already equipped. Great option.

And if the water is shallow and the grass clings to the Cheburashka... That is, another option for installing an offset press:

Pay attention to the offset hook load! In such an installation there is practically nothing to cling to! and it turns out to be a complete all-terrain vehicle!

Or in my collection there is American exotica - mixture of jig head and offset:

You are unlikely to find it in our stores... Why can’t Russian “lead masters” make the same ones and sell them to the masses? Although here you need a special offset hook...

Or here's another classic universal: