How to put a chain on a children's speed bike. Chain placement on a speed bike. Installing a new chain. Chain: choice and proper care

(function(w, d, n, s, t) ( w[n] = w[n] || ; w[n].push(function() ( Ya.Context.AdvManager.render(( blockId: "R-A -227463-10", renderTo: "yandex_rtb_R-A-227463-10", async: true )); )); t = d.getElementsByTagName("script"); s = d.createElement("script"); s .type = "text/javascript"; s.src = "//an.yandex.ru/system/context.js"; s.async = true; t.parentNode.insertBefore(s, t); ))(this , this.document, "yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");

The need to remove/install a bicycle chain arises for various reasons. Someone regularly boils it in paraffin or wax, someone decided to carry out a comprehensive cleaning in a can of gasoline, and someone has reached such a state that and it needs to be changed. How to do this is intuitive, but for those who are new to the operation, it is difficult to do without explanations and answers to pressing questions.

At the crossroads of two technologies: methods for replacing a worn chain on a bicycle with speeds

The main goal of the procedure is to unravel the old chain and connect the new one together. Before you do anything, make sure how the chain is connected now. It either represents a single whole or has a detachable link (lock) in its design. This is important because the type of fastening determines the list of necessary tools and, in fact, the maintenance method.

Lock/not lock

So, task No. 1 in how to change a worn chain on a bicycle is to find out if there is a lock. It's hard to tell on a dirty chain, so clean it. It is not necessary to clean in full accordance with the regulations.

It is quite enough to brush off the main layer of dirt from the side plates and turn the pedals in the opposite direction. The shape of the split link is noticeably different from others and immediately catches the eye. Its design can be studied in more detail from the photo.

Release techniques

If the chain contains a lock, just open it.
If the chain is a single unit, it is necessary to press out one of the axles (pins).

How to change a chain without a lock on a shift bike

If there is no lock, the technology for replacing the chain comes down to three operations:

Pressing out a pin from any link.
Shortening the new chain.
Installing and pressing the axle onto a new bicycle chain.

How to remove a bicycle chain without a lock

First, place the chain closer to you so that it is convenient to remove it after opening and install a new analogue on the stars. To do this, just push the rear derailleur to its extreme position (smallest sprocket), and align the front derailleur with the third gear (largest sprocket).

Squeezing the pin out of the link is much easier than pushing it back in. Select one of the components of the chain and extrude the axle in any of the following ways:

Tapping with a hammer through a knitting needle or thin nail.
By squeezing with a hard tip fixed on the chain wringer bolt.

Important! When tapping or pressing out, the back plate of the link must rest against something. For example, the squeezing device has a special rib for this purpose. Using a knitting needle and a hammer, the bicycle chain can be placed on a metal substrate (for example, a rail, a weight) or a hard stone, but so that the pin has somewhere to go.

It is more convenient to squeeze at the lower level. After disconnecting, it is easier to remove the chain at idle, when the pedals are spinning in the opposite direction.

For your information. Do not press the pin out completely. It is very difficult to insert into the outer plate. If you don’t feel the position, proceed step by step: turn the handle of the release bolt, remove it, evaluate whether it is already possible to open the link. If yes, then the squeezing is considered completed, and if “no,” put the squeezing device back on and repeat the cycle of actions.

(function(w, d, n, s, t) ( w[n] = w[n] || ; w[n].push(function() ( Ya.Context.AdvManager.render(( blockId: "R-A -227463-4", renderTo: "yandex_rtb_R-A-227463-4", async: true )); )); t = d.getElementsByTagName("script"); s = d.createElement("script"); s .type = "text/javascript"; s.src = "//an.yandex.ru/system/context.js"; s.async = true; t.parentNode.insertBefore(s, t); ))(this , this.document, "yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");

How to shorten a chain

Usually a fresh chain is slightly longer than even a tired product. If you install it without shortening it, the position of the rear derailleur will not correspond to the required one. The quality of gear shifting suffers from this.

The easiest way to calculate right size– compare the lengths of the old and new chain. You don't have to use a tape measure, just put them next to each other. Having aligned both ends on one side, we will see a discrepancy in dimensions on the other. Excess links are pressed out using the method already outlined, taking into account the recommendation for incomplete removal of the axle from the hole.

Attention! When removing excess links, follow the logic of their connection: the outer plates are pushed onto the inner ones. External plates will not fit on similar external ones. Take into account the design of the suspension: on double suspensions, the length of the chain should be sufficient in the position of full compression of the shock absorber.

How to install a new bicycle chain

We will assume that all the technology requirements, how to choose a chain for speed bike , completed successfully. Those. In front of you is a part that matches the width of the rear and front sprockets and all you have to do is put it on:

Position the product so that the extruded pin is closest to you.
Run the chain through the large chainring in the idle direction (reverse pedaling) through the front derailleur.

Place the chain on the cassette and go around the switch rollers according to the diagram shown in the figure.

For your information. The link axis can only be pressed by squeezing. When pressing, ask an assistant or secure the rear derailleur with a piece of wire so that the chain on the lower tier slacks. This way you can practically eliminate the risk of damage to the opposite plate.

How to Replace a Worn Locking Chain on a Speed Bike

The technology is similar to the technique of changing a bicycle chain without a lock: remove the old one, shorten the new one and install it. And we can say that here, too, you can’t do without squeezing - the extra links need to be removed with something.

Although here we can omit the recommendation regarding incomplete pressing out of the pin - if a lock is used, it must be completely removed. And then the alternative works 100%: the hammer and the knitting needle do their job, and there is no need to press anything in.

Attention! When removing excess links, watch how the lock is installed: both ends should end with internal plates

According to the technology for replacing a chain on a bicycle at high speeds, the detachable link is disconnected using special pliers. In fact, you can grab the lock area with both hands (preferably with gloves) and pull the ends of the chain towards each other.

Lock installation

Insert the plates with the axles into the rollers, align all the grooves and spread the chain in the lock area in opposite directions, holding it with both hands. Again, you can use the appropriate profile pliers if you have them.
To ensure that the lock finally snaps into place when there are no pliers at hand, follow the following list of actions:

Scroll the pedals so that the lock is on the top tier.
Hold it rear wheel.
Press the pedal with your foot. The section will stretch and the link will sit as expected.

Get a squeeze, even if there is a lock. The chain may break and this tool will come in very handy on the road. In addition, it is much easier to shorten a bicycle chain by squeezing. When choosing squeezing equipment, focus on high-quality, expensive models made of high-quality metal. The ideal option is to take a multi-set.
Don't avoid using a padlock. The thing is practical and reliable. A chain with a split link is faster and more convenient to remove for the same routine cleaning before lubricating it.
Do not use an old lock with a new chain. New – only new.

(function(w, d, n, s, t) ( w[n] = w[n] || ; w[n].push(function() ( Ya.Context.AdvManager.render(( blockId: "R-A -227463-11", renderTo: "yandex_rtb_R-A-227463-11", async: true )); )); t = d.getElementsByTagName("script"); s = d.createElement("script"); s .type = "text/javascript"; s.src = "//an.yandex.ru/system/context.js"; s.async = true; t.parentNode.insertBefore(s, t); ))(this , this.document, "yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");

All cyclists, sooner or later, are faced with the need to remove and then install a chain on a bicycle that has a gear selection function. This procedure is necessary for periodic cleaning and lubrication of the chain, repair work related to the rear wheel, or for directly replacing the chain itself when it has worn out its life. Despite the fact that this operation is relatively simple, novice cyclists may have a number of questions when performing it.

Since the chain has already been removed from the bicycle, then, most likely, you already know what type of chain the bicycle is equipped with - locking or solid chains, and also have necessary tool, namely a special squeezer for working with solid type chains.
How to put a chain on a speed bike
A high-speed bicycle, unlike a singlespeed, requires a slightly different algorithm of actions.

After installing the chain on your speed bike, you need to check that it is installed correctly. To do this, you need to spin the pedals and try to switch forward and reverse gears. If no jamming or extraneous sounds are observed, then the chain is installed correctly.

How often should the chain be cleaned and lubricated?
It is recommended to clean the chain by removing it from the bicycle and lubricate it approximately every 100-150 km. However, it should be noted that this recommendation is only valid if correct use various types lubricants according to weather conditions. If for some reason you apply a wet weather lubricant and ride your bike in dry weather, there is a high chance that it will become contaminated with dust much faster.

It should also be noted that there are special devices that allow you to clean the chain without removing it from the bicycle.

When the chain needs replacing
To determine the degree of chain wear, you need to use a caliper to measure the distance between the 24 pins (axes) of the chain. The permissible distance value ranges from 304.8 to 306.4 mm. If the distance exceeds the upper limit, the chain must be replaced.

For more even wear on the bicycle transmission, experienced cyclists advise having a set of three chains and periodically alternating them while working on your bicycle.

At the end of the article, we bring to your attention a video that demonstrates the entire process of installing a chain on a high-speed bicycle.

People often ask the question, how to fix a chain children's bike ? This is a common and common problem especially in children's bikes.

Why does the chain break?

— This mainly happens due to the fact that the chain was initially overtightened, and when driving under load due to the tension, the chain lock simply cannot stand it and falls off.

— This can also happen when the front sprocket is deformed.

— The chain lock was not latched properly.

What to do if the chain on a children's bicycle breaks?

You can bring your bike to ours or repair it yourself.

If you decide to repair your bike yourself.

You still have a chain, but most likely chain lock lost and you will have to buy a new one. It's called a chain lock for . Estimated cost 5,000 - 10,000 BYN. rubles Sold in almost all bike shops. and looks like this:

How to fix a chain on a children's bike?

To do this, you need to remove the chain protection if it prevents you from reaching the sprockets. Place the chain on the sprockets and connect it from the frame side using a chain lock, which has two guides.

Then slide the record onto these guides.

And using a screwdriver or pliers, push the lock onto the guides until it clicks. It should fit into the grooves and not dangle.

After you have installed the lock, check the “slack” of the chain by pressing your finger on the chain; if it is pressed tightly and too tight, you should loosen it slightly. Just unscrew the right bolt that holds the wheel (usually this requires a 17 key, if there are no attached wheels installed, if they are installed you will also need a 15 key), press your finger on the chain and tighten the bolt. The chain should “sag” no more than 0.5 cm.

If the chain was covered in sand, it is better to first clean and wash it, and lubricate it after installation (). Install the chain guard and go!

Replacing a bicycle chain is an essential skill for every home mechanic. The chain is a consumable item for the bicycle transmission. Over time, it tends to stretch and wear out. So sooner or later the time for replacement will come.

The video below shows the process of installing a new chain on a bicycle. The instructions are suitable for both mountain bikes and road bikes.

How to install a chain - video

Tools for work

Chain squeezing;
Chain wear indicator (device for checking chain stretch);
Bicycle spoke;
Pliers;

Step-by-step instruction

The transmission elements of bicycles from most manufacturers, with rare exceptions, are compatible with each other. You just need to select the same number of transmission and chain speeds. For example, for a transmission with nine gears you will need a chain designed for the same number of speeds.

1. Removing the old chain

Using a chain squeezer, press out one of the pins (the pin that connects the chain links) in the bottom passage of the chain. If there is a locking link, remove it. After removing the roller, carefully remove the chain from the bike.

If you use one chain for a long time without replacement, you may need to replace the cassette.

2. Installation new chain

Shift reverse and forward gears to the largest sprockets. If your bike has a clutch, loosen it.

Place the chain over the front sprocket and thread the end through the front shifter. Rotate the pedals so that the end of the chain hangs down from the sprocket at a distance of about 10 centimeters. Thread the other end through the rear fork of the bike frame and onto the largest sprocket on the cassette. Lower the rear gearshift down.

Throw the chain over the guide roller, pull it through the mechanism's legs, and wrap it around the tensioner roller. Carefully release the gearshift mechanism.

3. Chain measurement

You need to make sure that the chain will behave properly when shifting into any gear without damaging other parts of the bike. To check, the chain must be installed on the two largest sprockets, front and rear. Even if you never drive in such a gear.

Align the two ends of the chain and identify the extra links that need to be removed. To fix the chain in this position, use part of a bicycle spoke.

When using Shimano chains, there should be a link with inner plates at one end, and outer plates at the other. SRAM and KMC chains require links with internal plates at both ends.

Once the required chain length has been determined, remove unnecessary links. Throw the chain back over the smallest sprockets.

Attention! In full-suspended mountain biking you need to make sure that the chain is long enough when the suspension is compressed.

4. Circuit connection

For Shimano chains, you need to connect both ends with a roller. After installation, the excess part of the roller is broken off with pliers.

Manufacturers SRAM and KMC have a special locking link inserted between the ends of the chain, then the plates are snapped into place. For a complete connection, special pliers are used, but you can use the following method.

Rotate the pedals until the locking link is in the middle of the upper passage. Then hold the rear wheel to prevent it from spinning. Press down on the pedals and the locking link will finally slide into place. Make sure the chain is installed correctly. Pedal the bike using all gears.

Chain care

Regular cleaning and lubrication is the best way to extend the life of your chain. Use a special lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Lubricate each roller. Lubricate the chain only from the inside; there should be no lubricant on the outside.

Do not turn the chain in the opposite direction and apply lubricant in a hurry. In addition to increased consumption of the product, the links can be overloaded. Always remove excess grease with a rag. After riding in wet weather, wipe the chain dry and reapply lubricant. This will prevent rust and chain stretching.

Worn links

There is an opinion that the chain stretches due to improper driving. In fact, the effect of chain elongation is a consequence of wear on the rollers and rollers. As the chain wears, it damages the sprocket teeth, causing the chain to slip. There are special tools for determining chain wear.

An easier way to determine chain wear is to measure 12 links. If the number turns out to be 308 mm or higher, then the chain and cassette require replacement. The new chain has 12 links that are exactly 304.8mm long.

Chain release and wear indicator

There is a wide variety of squeezes different sizes from various manufacturers. It is worth noting that this tool is definitely necessary for those who want to change the chain themselves. Chain wear can be determined using a regular ruler. But for constant monitoring, it is better to purchase a special tool - a chain wear indicator.

Sooner or later, every avid cyclist experiences a chain failure. Luckily, there's no need to take your bike to an expensive repair shop if you can fix the situation yourself. The following tips will help you resolve the issue as quickly as possible.

Method 1 of 2: Replacing the broken chain

1. Assess the breakdown and try to do something. If the chain breaks while riding, roll the bike to the side of the road and lay it on its side, with the sprockets facing up. Inspect where the chain breaks - most likely the chain is hanging on the sprocket, and you can easily find two broken ends. In a conventional chain, the links are connected to each other by means of a pin (a pin, or cylindrical cup), which holds the plates of the inner link through which the pin passes, and a roller located on top of the cup. Therefore, if you are an experienced cyclist and carry a chain tool and spare parts with you, you can repair the chain and re-tension it yourself (see Method 2).

Basically, bicycle chains fall into three categories:

Chains with special rivets. Special rivets from the manufacturer are supplied with such chains. If you do not have such rivets with you, then to repair the chain, you will have to get to the nearest bicycle parts store.

Chains with closing links. These chains have a special link with two rivets that connect the ends of the chain. If this connection breaks, then to fix the chain you will have to replace this link.

Chains with “normal” links. Old, traditional chains consist of standard links, each of which can be replaced with the same (if you have the tool).

2. Remove the broken chain. If you realize that replacing the chain will be easier than repairing it, then the first thing you need to do is remove the old chain. If it breaks completely, just spin the pedals and it will fall off the sprocket on its own. If the chain does not fall off when cranking, then it must be disconnected manually. This can be done using a squeeze tool, available at almost any bike shop.

Connecting chain links using a squeezer: Position the chain pin against the squeezer pin. Then tighten the pin screw, pressing out the pin. If you plan to reuse the chain, do not remove the pin completely, but only enough to separate the chain links.

After you disconnect the chain, pedal until the chain falls off the cassette. If you want to replace the chain, be sure to count the number of links in the old chain (for bikes with a rear derailleur, take into account the error). Also consider your drivetrain type, as this will determine the type of chain that suits your bike. For example, for a 9-speed transmission, a 9-speed chain is suitable, etc.

3. Raise the rear wheel. The next step is to thread the new chain through the rear derailleur. To do this, you will need to spin the rear wheel, which will be much easier if it is not on the ground. If you have a bike rack, or a peg in the wall that you can hang your bike on, use that. If you don't have such benefits, simply raise the back of the frame by placing something under it, such as a box or cinder block.

Check the position of the switches. The rear derailleur should be at the highest speed and the front derailleur at the lowest.

4. Thread the chain through the rear derailleur. On most modern mountain bikes, the rear derailleur is a spring-loaded system of mechanisms that extend downwards under the main rear sprocket. Threading the chain through this mechanism requires special attention, since driving safety depends on it. Take the “mother” (the end of the chain without the pin) of the pre-sized chain, and loop it around the lower tension roller, and then around the upper one. If done correctly, the chain will run in an S-shape. If S is uneven, perhaps the chain did not go into all the grooves of the rollers, or got caught on something.

There may be a small metal tab between the rear derailleur tension rollers. The chain should not touch it.

Some bicycles, such as "grouse" (fixed-gear bicycles) or bicycles with planetary hubs, do not have a rear derailleur. In such cases, simply tighten the chain onto the sprocket and rotate the pedal as advised in the next step.

5. Place the chain on the rear cassette. On mountain bikes, the rear cassette is a set of several sprockets attached to the rear wheel. Once the chain is threaded through the derailleur, slide it onto the smallest sprocket in the cassette. Once you're sure the chain is securely through the derailleur and firmly seated on the sprocket, lightly tighten it.

6. Thread the chain through the front derailleur. On most modern mountain bikes, there is a metal mechanism near the front sprocket that moves the chain from one sprocket to the other. Pass the front end of the chain through this switch. If the chain does not reach, push the rear wheel a little further.

Capercaillie, again, do not have a front derailleur, so simply slide the chain onto the front sprocket as shown in the next step.

7. Place the chain on the front sprocket. Place the chain on the smallest front sprocket. Pull it well and check that it rests on all the teeth of the sprocket, then turn the pedal.

8. Connect the ends of the chain. Now that the chain has passed securely through all the elements of the transmission, you can connect the ends and enjoy your ride again. Place the link to be connected (“mother” and “father”) in the squeeze, on the stop that is closer to the fixing screw. When adjusting the position of the chain, move the pin to the clamped pin so that they are coaxial. Tighten the link with the fixing screw. Rotate the handle to press the pin into the link. Constantly monitor the degree of pin immersion. Failure to observe this detail may result in damage.

One useful tool is a c-clamp (a small, thin piece of metal) that helps hold the two ends of the chain together. This makes the job much easier since you don't have to hold the two ends of the chain yourself. A bent paperclip can serve as such a C-shaped staple.

Method 2 of 2: Replacing a Loose Chain

1. Determine where the chain has come off. Sometimes the chain does not break, but simply moves out of its normal position. Since in this case it is still on the front and rear derailleurs, no special intervention will be required - all you will have to do is install the chain back on the sprocket. If the chain falls off along the way, get off the bike, lay it on its side, with the sprockets facing up, and find the place where it came off. Typically the chain will fall off the front sprocket but remain on both derailleurs.

Look for places where the chain might get caught. Take appropriate precautions before your next trip.

2. Loosening the eccentric if the chain is jammed. As mentioned above, sometimes the chain will get stuck between the rear sprocket and the frame. In this case, loosen the rear wheel eccentric and unscrew the eccentric nut so that the chain can be removed.

The eccentric is opened by releasing a small lever located in the center of the rear wheel. Then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the lever and release the chain.

Don't forget to tighten the cam back before riding. The nut should be reasonably tight, so that the lever is clamped neither too tightly nor too loosely. If the lever is clamped too tightly, unscrew the nut a little and try clamping again. If the lever is clamped too easily, the nut needs to be tightened.

3. For bicycles with rear derailleurs, loosen the chain tension and tighten it onto the front sprocket. Most bicycles have a spring in the rear derailleur that provides tension to the chain while riding. Overcoming the resistance of the spring, tension the chain so that it can be put on the smallest front sprocket. Then release the chain and make sure it is tight enough.

Normally you can now continue driving. At first, the bike may ride chaotically until the chain is in the correct position.

4. In bicycles without speed, the chain is tensioned on the front sprocket by turning the pedal. As mentioned above, many bicycles, for example, wood grouse, do not have speed switches. In this case, put the chain on the rear sprocket, and, hooking it onto as many teeth as possible from the bottom of the front sprocket, rotate the pedal back. The chain should engage and begin to wrap around the sprocket. Once the chain is screwed onto the last top tooth of the sprocket, it can function normally.

It will be easier to pedal if you lift the rear wheel. To do this, you can put the bike on a rack, or put some material under it. You can also ask someone to hold the rear wheel up, or, in extreme cases, simply turn the bike over.

5. Smoothly rotate the pedal until the desired speed is achieved. Get on the bike and start moving slowly. If you have a fast bike, the chain may jump to the speed at which it was before breaking. Otherwise, set the speed yourself until the chain friction disappears.

Note that if the chain falls off on fixed speed bikes, it may be a sign that the chain tension is weak. Therefore, adjust the chain tension before your next ride.

6. Do a “general” check. Before the first trip after repair, set the most comfortable speed. Shift all gears on the front and rear derailleurs to make sure the chain does not bind anywhere.

Adviсe:

It's not unusual for a chain to fall off from time to time, but if it happens too often, it may require professional help.

If you have the option, purchase a special tool called a chain tensioner. Buy yourself a couple and follow the instructions on the package. Generally, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and a specific size Allen wrench. These tools will help you maintain proper chain tension.

If your chain is still slack and you can't get professional help, you may need to remove a few chain links to shorten it. But don't take on this if you don't know how to remove the links correctly.

Every cyclist should have basic knowledge and repair skills. This way you can not only save on service costs, but also not find yourself in a hopeless situation, being away from the bike workshop.

Cautions:

Braid long hair, tuck in your clothing and zip your fly all the way before repairing the chain.

It is better to use gloves when doing repairs to avoid getting your hands dirty with grease.

Do not put your fingers in the chain, otherwise you may injure them or lose them altogether.

Bicycle chain

The chain in a bicycle is one of the key components of the transmission. It is the maintenance of the chain in ideal condition that guarantees adequate operation of the entire mechanism. When buying a bicycle, no one will choose a new chain, but over time, replacing a part that has become unusable is inevitable. How to choose the perfect chain for your bike? How many chains do you need to have on a bicycle? How to change the chain yourself correctly, so as not to contact a bicycle mechanic for every trifle? These skills and knowledge will not be superfluous.

Chain: choice and proper care

For people who still remember, the sentence “choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds somewhat wild. For some reason, the chains lasted almost longer than the bicycle itself. The answer is simple: those bicycles had only one speed, so the chain was constantly in a calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bicycles. Nowadays, even the most budget iron bike is equipped with the ability to change gears, which leads to chain wear. Modern chains are undoubtedly stronger and more reliable if they are able to withstand such loads during such use.

So, it’s time to replace the chain on your own bicycle: what should you pay attention to, which chain to choose? Most popular manufacturers are considered KMC, Shimano and SRAM. In the lines of these manufacturers you can find chains of varying prices and different qualities. All these chains easily replace each other and, if the cyclist has a desire, he can sort through the chains ad infinitum until he finds the one that suits him completely.

ADVICE! For a cassette with 7-8 stars, you should purchase a chain for 8 gears, for 9 – for 9, and so on.

When purchasing a chain, you should pay attention to the markings: usually companies include information about the quality of the chain in the numerical designation of the model. For example, the CN-HG53 will be much simpler than the CN-7701.

For adequate operation of the chain, it is important to be able to notice in time the moment when the chain already requires replacement or repair, but the rest of the transmission is still safe and sound. Excessively worn chain not only threatens with driving problems, but also gradually “kills” the sprockets: in this case, you will have to change not only the chain itself, but also a rather expensive mechanism - the cassette, and sometimes the system. The most accurate way to determine chain wear should not be considered mileage (sometimes 100 km of country walks on off-road and muddy roads can pass for 1000 km of quiet city bike rides), but the length of 24 links on the chain:

in normal condition this figure is 304.8 mm;
306.5-307.5 mm is a reason to change the chain;
307.5-308 mm - indicates not only chain wear, but also problems with sprockets;
More than 308 mm - serious difficulties with the chain, cassette and system condition.

Another way to “by eye” find out how worn a chain is is the following: after installing the chain on a large sprocket, you should pull it lightly with your fingers and check how many teeth are visible on the chain. If you can see two teeth on the sprocket, the chain is worn out, but is still suitable for driving, and three teeth indicate that the chain is completely worn out and needs to be replaced immediately. Also, extraneous sounds from a lubricated chain often indicate its wear.

Replacing a chain on a bicycle: removing and installing correctly

Experts advise sticking to some simple recommendations, which will allow the bicycle owner to avoid possible problems with the chain:

Do not drive in heavily skewed gears;
done on time will help you protect it from early breakdown.
do not use greases and products such as WD40 as a chain lubricant;
use multiple replacement chains to extend their life.

Chain lock.

If the chain still needs to be replaced, it is important to approach this issue competently and professionally. Before starting work, check which chain is on the bike: with a lock or not. As a rule, chains with locks are only found on children's or cheap bikes. To achieve such a design, you just need to find the lock and remove it with a simple screwdriver.

Chain with pin.

The situation is more complicated if the bicycle has a chain without a lock, that is, with a pin. To work with it, you will definitely need a special tool - a squeeze tool, which will allow you to quickly and easily remove the chain without damaging the links. The sequence for removing such a chain is as follows:

You need to select a chain segment for disassembly (experts advise choosing different segments for each new procedure with the same chain, since disassembly loosens them).
Insert the chain into the release device. This can be done this way: either using the seat located at the fixing screw, in which you can press in or press out the axle, or - in the second position, only the inner part of the bushing is adjusted.
Squeeze the axle towards the strengthening screw (the squeeze screw is tightened using the handle).

IMPORTANT! During work, you should carefully monitor the absence of defects on the axle, because then it will be used in the assembly of the link.

Before installing the chain The exact length must be determined for the bicycle: if the length is insufficient, the chain will not allow you to easily change gears, and if it is too long, it will dangle.

Chain installation on a bicycle - the procedure is simple and, with proper skill, is easy to perform, you just need to carefully perform the following steps:

We install the switches on small stars.
We put the chain on the bicycle, taking into account the correct location of the tensioner rollers - the lower one goes around on the left, and the upper one on the right.
After the links are aligned and secured with a screw, you can clamp the chain in the squeezer.
Carefully press the axle in, slowly rotating the release handle: monitor the immersion level relative to the adjacent links.
We check how the axle works - freely and without jamming, whether it protrudes.

Bicycle chain problems

One of the most common problems is chain slack. This process is due to the fact that the axles gradually wear out during movement, which leads to sagging of the chain. This process actually cannot be prevented, so it is simply necessary to remove excess links as it lengthens.

In order to shorten the chain you will need a chain and pliers:

Disconnect the chain and remove the squeezer.
We determine the number of extra links (the optimal way is to pass the chain through large sprockets).
We remove unnecessary links according to the principle of disconnecting the chain.
We connect the chain and check its mobility.

Another difficulty is chain slipping: Depending on the severity of the problem, the cyclist may experience either minor inconvenience while riding or serious difficulties leading to possible loss of parts, injuries and accidents. Among the reasons for chain slippage are the following:

Caliper adjustment. In middle positions this can lead to the chain jumping over the sprockets, and in extreme positions it can get jammed between the frame and the sprocket. To avoid such difficulties, it is necessary to adjust the calipers in a timely manner: in this case, do not forget about those gears that are not often used (for example, 1-1 or 3-9).
Wear of the chain or its components. The critical mileage of a bicycle can be from 2 to 8 thousand km: when these indicators are reached, the chain begins to jump off under increased load, then more and more often. In this case, you can notice a certain looseness of the chain, as well as an uncharacteristic sharpness of the sprockets. This problem can only be solved by completely or partially replacing the damaged element.
Presence of dirt or dirt in the chain. Particles of dirt, ice, grass or soil can cause problems with the circuit. In this case, it is easy to eliminate slippage: you just need to clean and lubricate the chain.
The chain is twisted or broken. Twisting is an easily solvable problem that occurs when the weave fails or a jammed chain is removed. To eliminate it, you need to find the damaged link, carefully bend the chain and straighten the defect. A rupture, of course, requires more serious efforts: replacing a damaged pair of links or the entire chain.

Chain damper

Chain damper.

When the bicycle moves, which causes it to fall off. This can cause injury. Used for prevention. A number of accessories are called chain stabilizers. Typically, this is a design of two rollers and a rockring. It is placed instead of the front derailleur on the frame, protecting the sprocket and keeping the chain from flying away. Many models are made at home.

The power part that protects the front sprocket from impacts is the rockring. It partially performs the function of a dampener and is mass-produced. Made in the form of a circle, the size is larger than a star. The rockring is attached as standard, but can be used in conjunction with. The main element of “calming” is the roller that supports the chain.

Sedatives are:

Rollerless. The chain is held in place by a frame. This is a simple option.
With a pair of rollers - one on top, the other on bottom.
With wide rollers - for.

Types of mounting dampers:

ISCG - fastening with screws to the frame in three places.
ISCG 05 is the most advanced standard.
BB - fastening to the carriage. She pulls the sedative towards.

There is a damper on the cassette. It is mounted at the rear. It rarely occurs on professional bicycles, more often on ordinary ones. It is easy to make, but it interferes with gear shifting and wastes energy.

Device price depends on the manufacturer and the prestige of the company. It could be 1000 rubles, or maybe 5000 rubles. There are only four normal companies - Truvativ. This is a brand from SRAM, the firstborn of quality, a legitimate product. British Hope - uses the most advanced materials. Funn is a very expensive brand and is overpriced. The most popular company is Shimano. Its products are designed for Russian buyers.

Video. How to put a chain on a bicycle

On domestic road bicycles, chains are made detachable; one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bikes it is not possible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.

When purchasing a new chain, you need to find out which chains are suitable for the system and cassette installed on your bike.

For 10-speed cassettes you need to use a 6.2 mm wide chain, for example SHIMANO CN-HG95
For 9-speed cassettes, you need to use a 6.5mm wide chain, for example, SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93.
For 6 - 8 speed cassettes, you need to use a 7.1mm wide chain, for example, SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.

Chains are sold in two types - boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM supplies). Usually the box contains a replaceable axle (pin) designed to connect the chain segments. One end of such an axis is pointed, which makes it easier to install.

Pressing the chain requires squeezing.

After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.

If the chain is not equipped with a special axle with a pointed end (as many chains sold without a box are), then the axle must be inserted into one of the segment plates.

Pressing the chain also requires squeezing.

Some chains are sold complete with a special connecting link. In this case, no tools are required to connect the chain.

Such links are also sold separately. By the way, for cyclists going on a long bike trip, it makes sense to include a connecting link in their personal repair kit: just in case.

Naturally, when purchasing a connecting link, you must take into account the width of the chain; for 8, 9, 10-speed chains, the connecting links are different.

Installation of the circuit using the connecting pin (axle).


	We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axle, then insert it with its pointed end into the holes of the segment.
	We thread the chain into the squeezer and secure it with a clamping screw (in the photo on the left). Important Note- Many squeezers have two chain mountings. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing the axle. This is where the chain needs to be threaded for removal and installation. (As pictures show) The other seat is used only to adjust the position of the axle inside the bushing. If you try to press in the axle when the chain is threaded in this seat, you can damage the squeezer or the chain.
	We press the axle into the chain by rotating the release handle. We stop when the axle is almost completely immersed in the hole (compare with neighboring links). We remove the chain from the squeezer. If we use a replaceable axle, then break off the pointed end with pliers.
	We check that the chain in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then check how much the ends of the axle protrude from different sides of the chain. If necessary, the axle must be moved with a squeeze in the desired direction. To do this, thread the chain into another seat of the squeezer (the one that is closer to the squeezer handle). Then both ends of the axis will be visible, and its position can be easily controlled visually.

Installing a chain using a connecting link.

Before installing the chain, you must set the front and rear derailleurs to the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.

To rivet a chain using a connecting link, no tools are required and the process itself is simple and straightforward

	We put the chain on the bicycle. It is important to correctly place the chain on the tensioner rollers. The lower roller goes around the chain on the left, and the upper roller on the right.
	We insert both halves of the connecting link into the outer links of the chain.
	We combine the extreme links.
	We make sure that the connecting link fits correctly, without distortions. And we simply tighten the chain with our hands.
	We check that the chain in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. After assembly, the chain must be slightly bent in the transverse direction to ensure better mobility of the links.

What functions does a bicycle chain perform? Anyone who has even briefly encountered bicycles, not to mention amateurs and professionals, can answer this question. A chain is a transmission element that acts as an intermediary in transmitting the cyclist’s efforts to the rear wheel.

The most important indicator of the effectiveness of its work is rigidity. An over-tensioned chain makes movement difficult, quickly wears out the gear shift system, and even breaks down. In a weakened state, it dangles, does not allow you to change gears clearly and can generally fly off the stars.

Optimal tension is the key to successful and long-term operation of the entire transmission unit. Many bike owners independently change the degree of rigidity by removing or adding links. However, there is also a special device - a chain tensioner, which autonomously controls the stiffness and helps the cyclist get rid of unnecessary fuss.

Chain tensioner - how it works

The tensioner is installed together with the rear derailleur on bicycles with a multi-speed open transmission. Additionally, they can be installed on other types of bicycles, for example, with a planetary control system. The simple design of this device ensures a clear fixation of the bicycle chain, and also protects against flying off in case of strong pulling.

The optimal position of the tensioner rollers is parallel to the rear sprocket system, that is, the chain runs straight along it and without distortions. Otherwise, the switching system holder is bent. To align it, you need to grab and pull the entire device (switch), not just the tensioner.

Rear derailleur diagram with tensioner

Efficiency of use

The "extra sprocket" system helps keep the chain rigid in a position that allows for smooth transitions between gears. As they said earlier, excessive tension complicates the switching process; in a loose state, the links jump on the sprockets, which is why some speeds may not turn on or the accuracy of switching to other sprockets will sharply decrease.

The tensioner device only helps to temporarily compensate for elongations during operation, but does not eliminate wear itself. On bicycles with a multi-sprocket transmission, the chain stretches many times faster than in a standard front-rear sprocket system due to the constant slight misalignment. Exceeding the force of fixation of the switch rollers when stretched leads to the fact that the device can no longer cope with the chain, and you will have to shorten it yourself.

Tensioner installed additionally

Nevertheless, use on a mountain bike is quite justified: the chains are long enough, and in addition, there is no sagging at any ratio of front and rear sprockets. As for installing it yourself on a bicycle, where this is not provided, there is no particular reason for this: it will be much easier to remove a stretched chain and shorten it by removing excess links. In addition, the price of such devices does not spoil either.

Tensioner installation

A situation may arise when the roller lock has become unusable: the rollers themselves have become loose or the foot has bent. The problem will be especially relevant for a mountain bike, which is often driven in harsh conditions, and it is simply impossible not to hit something! In such cases, you can install a new tensioner. The first thing to do is buy it. In principle, no difficulties should arise: manufacturers of bicycle parts, for example, Shimano, actively produce such parts for specific bicycle models.

Mountain bike wheel and roller lock

The roller tensioner can be installed using mounting bolts. The chain must first be removed from the rear sprockets. After the tensioner is installed, it is removed from the front. You need to dress in the following order:

Big star at the back.
Tensioner guide roller.
External roller.
Largest front sprocket. In order for the chain to fully seat, you need to crank the pedals a little.

The tensioner can be adjusted by changing the angle relative to the frame. The optimal position will be near the "critical angle" where the tension is maximum. Since increased chain rigidity is not good, it should have a little free play. However, you shouldn’t move too far away, otherwise the chain will start moving. What should the angle be? There is no exact answer, this parameter is individual for each bicycle, and independent adjustment will require care. An alternative option is to contact a specialized workshop.

Once the clamp has been installed and adjusted, its operation should be tested under real conditions using various options the position of the chain between the stars. Also, when checking, you need to listen to your own feelings: how easy it is to twist the pedals and how quickly the gears change. And of course, we must remember that even replacing the tensioner must be done in a timely manner in order to maintain the integrity of the entire transmission.

The video below shows the process of installing a new chain on a bicycle. The instructions are suitable for both mountain bikes and road bikes.

How to install a chain - video

Tools for work

Chain squeezing;
Chain wear indicator (device for checking chain stretch);
Bicycle spoke;
Pliers;