Use of holding ointments and SWIX klisters. Ski ointment swix v30 blue how to apply. Swix ski wax A: If your skis continue to slip, there are three solutions

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Universal ski wax Swix F4 is designed for a wide range of temperatures, humidity and snow conditions. But it is also important to learn how to apply it correctly in order to achieve excellent ski glide on the piste.

You will need

  • - stone T240;
  • - spray I62;
  • - Swix ointment;
  • - canvas T151;
  • - block.

Instructions

Remove any damage from the surface of the skis. Often, stones can hit the sliding part, which leads to the appearance of compactions in the place where the impacts occur. Use the rough side of the T240 stone to solve this problem. Begin leveling the damaged area by pressing firmly on the stone and gradually moving forward along the surface. Do this on both the sliding and side edges.

Also remove scratches and burrs over the entire edge area. This is a necessary operation before applying the ointment. Perform this procedure with the same T240 stone, but only with lighter pressure. After this, clean the sliding surface. Spray I62 over the entire area. Wait about 15 seconds. Then take the T151 fiber cloth and clean the entire surface of the skis with it.

Use the liquid method of applying Swix F4 ointment. Shake the bottle of this brand of liquid ointment well. After this, cover the entire sliding surface area, pressing lightly on the spray applicator. Do not touch your skis for several minutes. This is necessary so that the ointment is completely absorbed. For faster gliding, polish the surface with T151 cloth. Do this the same way you clean your shoes.

Use the dry method of applying this brand of ointment. For this you will need the hex solid variety F4–60. Take a small wooden block and gently press the wax onto the sliding surface of the skis.

Do this over the entire sliding area. After this, take the cork attached to the package and thoroughly polish the entire surface of the ski. Make sure it is clean at the end of the job. Otherwise, the skis will glide very poorly.

Use the express method of applying Swix F4 ointment. Shake the bottle of ointment. Apply the emulsion to the surface of the skis by slowly pressing the applicator. Wait two minutes and polish your skis with fibrelene.

Before starting a review of methods for preparing skis and applying grip ointments, it is necessary to get an idea of ​​skis with notches, which can partially relieve the skier from the procedure of applying ointments.

So, should you buy knurled skis? This question cannot be given a completely unambiguous answer. Most non-professional skiers use just such skis. And it’s clear why, because with such skis you don’t need to waste time on lubricating and preparing them. Ribbed skis can be used at any time. Such skis have a huge drawback - they grip well on soft snow, but on hard snow they will not be as effective, and such skis cannot be oiled. Also, any notch, even the highest quality, worsens the sliding and rolling of the ski.
Skis without notches have to be constantly prepared, but they provide fairly comfortable skiing in all weather conditions.

Ski lubrication kit.

The minimum ski preparation kit usually consists of two or three cans of ointment, cork rubbing and a scraper. For riding classic style you need to lubricate the skis under the block with holding ointment. The block is the part of the ski that starts at the heel of the boot and extends towards the toe of the ski by 15-20 centimeters. The block is lubricated with holding ointments so that when you push off with your foot, the skis do not slide back.

Where to lubricate cross-country skis?

For beginners, it is quite suitable, which often consists of four briquettes or jars made of foil or plastic. In addition to ointments, you will need a synthetic rubbing plug. Having smeared the middle part of the ski with ointment, you need to rub it. After this you should have an even shiny layer. If you can't make an even layer, don't bother with it for long. It is enough to simply smooth the ointment by rubbing.

Synthetic rubbing stopper for ointments.

When you go skiing, it is advisable to take with you a “warmer” and a “cooler” ointment compared to the one you applied to your skis.

An easy way to apply ski wax.

The picture on the far left shows sanding the surface - this needs to be done infrequently.

Cases of “missing the right ointment”:

1)The skis don't hold up. This problem can be eliminated by applying a warmer ointment to the block. After application, you need to rub it with a rubbing stopper. You will spend only a few minutes on this procedure, and you will be able to continue riding comfortably.

2)The skis are slowing down. Skis may not ride well or become covered in snow or ice under the pad due to wax applied that is too warm for the weather. The accumulation of snow under the block is called “sludge”, ice - icing. It will take a little longer to resolve this issue. First, you need to remove the ice or snow with a scraper or improvised means. After this, you should rub the pad with a glove, removing any remaining snow and moisture. Then rub with a stopper, drying the ointment. You need to rub it more intensely than you rubbed the ointment indoors. When the ointment is sufficiently dry and warm, it is time to apply a cooler ointment. This simple trick usually fixes this problem.

How to wax skis at -5 degrees?

Let's say it's -5 degrees outside, and your set of ointments consists of five briquettes (according to the number of temperature ranges). Most the right decision will apply blue ointment (-2 -8). But don’t forget that when you go riding, you need to take two more ointments with you. If the weather changes, you can adjust the ski lubrication for comfortable skiing. Returning from a walk, you should remove the old ointment with a scraper (or improvised materials). After this, new ointment can be applied to the remains of the old ointment. If you want to clean your skis well, you can wash off the old gasoline ointment using a piece of cotton wool. If funds allow, you can purchase it.

Set of liquid ointments.

In the case when there is still a lot of snow, but the air temperature is above zero, it is best to use universal ones. However, to remove them you will need (either gasoline or kerosene). You will have to tinker with liquid ointments a little longer, but you can ensure comfortable skiing on the spring ski slopes.

Applying klister to cross-country skis.

Two tubes of ointment will be enough for you - for above-zero temperatures and for zero and slight minus temperatures.

Klister should be applied indoors. You need to squeeze it out in greasy drops onto the ski block, and then rub them with a scraper.

You need to tinker with such ointments a little more because the consistency of the klisters is close to the consistency of condensed milk, which means they easily stain clothes and hands. Therefore, after skiing, you need to immediately clean the skis from the ointment with a scraper and wash. You can also put your skis in a case after skiing and clean them at home. The need to clean skis after skiing is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments.

Express ointments.

So-called ointments in aerosol cans are now gaining great popularity. It has become much easier to apply such ointments. The fact is that it is enough to simply spray such ointment on the specified area of ​​​​the sliding surface of the ski and after 5 minutes you can get on the ski track. This express ointment does not need to be rubbed with a cork - the ointment is spread in an even layer over the entire area and is almost immediately ready for use. But during initial use, you need to roughen the ski under the pad using fine sandpaper - this way the ointment will adhere better to the surface.

Economy sets.

Many manufacturers produce economy packages for lubricating skis. They include two or three jars of solid ointment and a rubbing stopper. Sometimes several tubes of liquid ointment and a scraper are added to this kit. It happens that these sets come in a convenient belt bag. There are kits that include everything listed plus a can of cleaner. This is a very good option, since this set has everything you need and nothing extra.
Paraffins.

Economical ski kit. (ointments for different temperatures, scraper and stopper)

You should not smear paraffin on recreational skis. The plastic surface glides well in any weather. For walking, this glide will be enough for you. The surface of the ski above and below the pad does not need to be treated with anything. But if you are going to participate in competitions, then firstly you need more expensive skis and secondly you will certainly have to do more detailed work, and for this you need to purchase a whole set of additional equipment.

Spring has arrived, the condition of the snow in the Krasnaya Polyana mountains is beginning to gradually deteriorate, and in the morning there is sometimes an ice crust on the slopes. This does not mean that you no longer need to ride. This means that to enjoy skating, you need to pay a little attention to the processing of the sliding surface and the condition of the edges. I personally encountered this problem a couple of weeks ago, when, having climbed the Alpine, I realized that my snowboard completely refused to go, and half a day of skiing was wasted in vain until I met a friend from whom I borrowed a piece of paraffin. And judging by the conversations in line for the cable car, I wasn’t the only one who had a similar problem that day. Therefore, we asked specialists from Swix, the largest manufacturer of products for preparing skis and snowboards, to tell us what can be done at home. We bring to your attention these simple tips.

We also remind you that everyone can fill out on our website until April 7, 2010, and win one of six sets for processing alpine skis and snowboards, kindly provided by the FunSochi website.

Processing edges and sliding surfaces with Swix products
A few simple steps to treat your skis or snowboard will help you get maximum pleasure and positive emotions. These simple steps will improve the sliding properties and quality of edges of your equipment, and will help improve your riding skills. And your skis and snowboard last longer!

Recommended Swix products:
T3001 Tool for sharpening edges complete with file;
T240 Edge polishing stone;
F4-150 Universal liquid ointment. Contains fluorine for better glide;
F4-60 Universal solid ointment. Contains fluorine for better glide;
I62 Cleaning spray;
T151 Fiberlene cloth for cleaning and polishing;
R392 Alpine ski cuffs with protective padding;
T165 Alpine ski brake clamps;

Let's sharpen the edges!
It is better to do the edge processing before applying the ointment to avoid getting the ointment on the edge processing tools, as this will impair their performance. It is necessary that the edges be sharp and well polished in order to more accurately feel the skis and snowboard. Edge sharpening is carried out in two areas:

Edge surface from the base side: Sharpening angle from 0.5 to 1 o
Lateral edge surface: Sharpening angle from 87 to 89 o

1. Edge surface from the base side:
Start edging with a compact edging cutter T3001. Fix the sharpening angle in position 1 o. If you are not using a special vice, hold your ski or snowboard sliding surface Push. Using a file guide, go along the edge, making continuous movements from the middle of the ski or snowboard along the entire edge. Unfold the other side and repeat the process on the opposite edge.

2. Lateral surface of the edge
Produced with the same tool T3001. Fix the sharpening angle at 88 o. You get a bevel of the side surface of the edge of 2 o. If you are right-handed, keep the ski or snowboard with the sliding surface facing away from you. Using a file guide, go along the edge, making continuous movements along the entire edge of the ski or snowboard. Unfold the other side and repeat the process on the opposite edge.

3. Polish the edges
Using the smooth side of the stone T240, it is necessary to polish the steel edge. Polished edges stay sharp longer and allow you to reach higher speeds. Moving the stone back and forth, first polish the edge surface from the base side, then continue polishing the side surface of the edge (2-3 passes). This will remove small burrs that remain after filing. Now the edges are perfectly sharpened and polished for comfortable and safe riding on hard slopes.

4. Rounding edges
The edges must be rounded in non-working areas, starting from the place where the edge contacts the snow, respectively, to the toe and heel. These areas need to be polished using a stone. Depending on your riding style and the recommendations of the snowboard manufacturer, you can slightly blunt the edge from the point of contact with the snow to the toe and to the heel for a distance of up to 10-15 cm. For these purposes, you can use the abrasive side of the Swix stone T240. Gently reduce the sharpness of the edge. Stone T240 suitable for processing edges directly on the slope - if the snowboard catches the snow at the ends more than you would like, round off the edges a little.

5. Damage removal
Impacts of stones during skating lead to the formation of seals on the edge steel in the place where the impact occurred. These seals must be removed before filing, as the file may slip and the edge sharpening will be uneven. Use the rough side of the stone T240 and using strong pressure, level the damaged area both from the side of the sliding surface and from the side surface of the edge. After skiing on hard artificial snow, burrs and scratches appear along the entire surface of the edge. Walk with light pressure on the rough side of the stone T240 along the entire surface of the edge. This will remove burrs.

6. Cleaning the sliding surface
Apply spray remover evenly I62 over the entire area of ​​the sliding surface of skis or snowboards. Wait approximately 15 seconds. Then thoroughly clean the sliding surface with a fiberlene cloth. T151.

7. Applying gliding ointment
Universal slip ointments Swix F4 Designed for a wide range of temperatures and snow conditions, you can achieve superior glide, precise cornering and more fun. The most popular products in this series are liquid ointment spray F4-150 and solid slip ointment F4-60. All Swix products F4 contain fluorine, which significantly improves the glide of your skis and snowboards. Quick and easy application. Apply, polish and go!

“A bad glide is like riding a bicycle with flat tires.”
By using gliding ointment, you protect the sliding surface of skis and snowboards from oxidation (damage to the plastic material). You also get excellent control and quick turn-in without any additional effort.

“Liquid method” of applying F4 ointment

  • Shake the bottle of liquid ointment F4-150 and with light pressure from the spray applicator, apply the liquid evenly over the entire area of ​​the sliding surface.
  • Wait a few minutes for the ointment to absorb. For optimal results, polish with a fiberlene cloth. T151. Like polishing your shoes.

“Dry method” of applying F4 ointment

  • Hexagonal shape of solid ointment F4-60 convenient for quick application. Using light pressure, rub the sliding surface evenly with the stone. F4-60.
  • Applied solid ointment F4-60 must be thoroughly rubbed and polished with a stopper attached to the bottom of the package.

A dirty sliding surface is a slow sliding surface. Don't forget about cleaning!

“Express method” of applying gliding ointments
It couldn't be easier!

  • Choose a topical ointment depending on the air temperature (in the shade).
  • Shake the bottle and press the applicator onto the sliding surface. Apply the emulsion evenly.
  • Let dry for 2 minutes. Then polish with fiberlen T151, like polishing your shoes.

"Swix"
The Norwegian company SWIX is a world leader in the production of ski waxes and waxes, ski poles, tools for processing and caring for skis and sportswear.

Swix was founded in 1946 when, following developments by a research team led by Norwegian skier Martin Matsbo, a new system of ski waxes based on synthetic materials was introduced to the market. New system“three colors” became a breakthrough in the minds of skiers of all levels, simplifying the process of lubricating skis.

In 1987, Swix was the first to produce 100% organofluorine powders. A series of Cera F paraffins was launched onto the market. A revolutionary breakthrough - new generation accelerator ointments with extremely low sliding friction allowed Swix to take a leading position not only in running, but also in alpine skiing. Cera F gave impetus to development new technology, when traditional paraffins are mixed with fluoride additives, resulting in the most effective line of gliding ointments, Cera Nova.

The company's success is obvious - more than 70% of World Cup participants compete with SWIX poles. Swix products are used by leading athletes around the world in cross-country skiing, biathlon and alpine skiing, such as the winner of the 2008/2009 World Cup, Norwegian Axel Lund Svindal.

But SWIX produces products not only for professionals - skiers of any level, as well as lovers of an active lifestyle, will find suitable equipment for themselves.

Swix's goal and mission today is to develop, produce and bring to market innovative, high-quality sports products to enhance your enjoyment of sports and outdoor activities.

To easily select a weather-appropriate holding ointment, you need to understand the basics of the collection of ointments, study the main types of snow and its behavior at different temperatures. In the production of modern holding ointments, the best raw materials and formulas are used, and they are prepared using special machines. All this simplifies the process of selecting ointments. When the skier uses his full weight during the take-off phase of the classic stroke, the ski block is pressed into the snow, which grabs the wax and allows for an effective take-off and transition into the gliding phase.

The hardness of snow crystals depends on the temperature; the colder the snow crystals, the harder the ointment must be chosen so that in the repulsion phase the hardness of the ointment corresponds to the hardness of the snow. As the temperature increases, the snow transforms (old snow), the snow crystals become rounded, so you need to choose a softer ointment. When the snow goes through several cycles of refreezing (melts and freezes again), its crystals have a very hard round structure (hard coarse-grained snow), then it’s time to use klister - a liquid holding ointment, which allows the rounded snow crystals to grab and push off the skier. When riding classic move On coarse-grained snow, it is the klister that allows you to effectively push off and then slide easily. Problems with selecting an ointment begin at temperatures around zero and fresh snow. The combination of sharp, new crystals of fresh snow and relatively high temperature increases friction during the sliding phase. During friction, heat is released, new snow melts, and a thin film of water is formed, which freezes in a soft ointment. As a result, the skis begin to slip, which interferes with further movement. Ways to avoid such a situation will be discussed further.

A common mistake Swix service reps often encounter is that riders select a wax that is too cold, or too harsh, for the current conditions. The second problem is that the block for holding liquid ointments is chosen shorter than it should be. Racers often pay too much attention to gliding, which is why they choose colder ointments and apply shorter pad lengths. All this leads to ski slipping, which means that the skier loses more energy and time than he saves on sections when moving down the mountain
You can get additional information on how to choose the appropriate ointment using the ointment calculator on the website swixsport.com

Preparing the holding area (pads)

Before applying the holding ointment, the block must be sanded so that the ointment is then absorbed into the base. This does not need to be done every time you apply the ointment - it is enough to clean the block from time to time. Using #100 grit sandpaper, go over the entire length of the block several times in both directions and lift the pile
Tip: to protect the sliding zones from damage by sandpaper, apply a special tape to protect the surface at the beginning of the sliding zone (at the joints with the holding zone).

Processing ointments with a stopper

It is necessary to properly process the ointment with a cork: each layer of ointment must be leveled and polished. Unevenly applied ointment reduces the contact of the pad with the snow, which means worse repulsion. If the ointment is applied correctly using a cork, you can lubricate the skis directly on the ski track with a softer ointment on top of the previously applied one. Pay attention to the groove - the holding ointment there needs to be processed carefully.

Layers of holding ointment

When applying holding ointments, it is recommended to apply several thin layers, each of which is thoroughly rubbed with a stopper. Racers typically use 7-8 layers. The first layer should cover the entire holding area. The holding zone starts from the heel of the fastenings and goes forward 60-65 cm. The last layer should be the shortest and located exactly under the sole of the boot. Thus, the ointment is applied in the form of a pyramid.
Tip: Softer, warmer ointments are easier to apply in several layers if they are cooled first.

Application of holding ointments - Primer

Primer ointment is applied to increase the adhesion of the holding ointment to the sliding surface. Today, dirt is used more and more often in racing. Modern soil does not have a negative effect on sliding, which is why riders use it in races with a distance of more than 10 km.

In very aggressive snow conditions we recommend using VG35 primer as the first coat. For less aggressive snow conditions (cold, fine-grained snow), VG30 soil is used. Usually one thin layer is applied, but if the snow is abrasive and wears off the ointment, then the layer is made thicker. After you apply the ointment, you need to warm it up with an iron (iron temperature is about 110 C). If ski processing takes place outdoors, where there is no source of electricity, use a special iron that is heated with a blowtorch. If there is no possibility of heat treatment of the ointment at all, then it is necessary to carefully rub in each layer using a cork - this will improve the adhesion of the ointment to the material of the sliding surface.

V40 is often used as an addition to the base layer. Apply a thin layer of ointment, go over quickly with an iron to lubricate, allow the ointment to cool and rub it in. Blue Extra ointment has a long history, tested in competitions, so many racers cannot imagine treating skis without it. Primer ointments VG35 and VG30 are the ideal base layer for all holding ointments.

How to choose the right holding ointment for current conditions:

First you need to test your skis. You can apply a layer of colder or warmer ointment on top of the originally selected ointment. You should not waste time and effort on tests; the ointment needs time to adapt to the snow conditions. Usually at first (several hundred meters) the ointment slips, this is normal. If the initially chosen ointment works well, then all that remains is to go on the ski track. Additional layers of ointment are only needed if there is a long race ahead.

A: If the skis continue to slip, there are three solutions:

1. Apply several more layers of the same ointment. It may be necessary to extend the pad area forward. A thicker layer of wax will allow the snow to grab onto the wax and give the skier an effective push-off. Remember that the ointment is applied in the form of a pyramid.
2. If the ointment does not provide proper repulsion (too hard, too cold), apply a softer warm ointment on top of the already applied ointment. If this helps solve the problem, apply several additional layers of warm ointment. Again, be sure to apply an additional layer to the last in the sole area of ​​the boot.
3. If too soft (too warm) ointment was initially applied, the block may begin to freeze in conditions of new fine-grained snow. The ski will slip in turns and glide worse. If it is not immediately clear whether the ointment is freezing or not, apply a little more of the same ointment. If it is impossible to apply more ointment (it slips off), then the ointment is too soft and will freeze. In this case, you need to thoroughly rub the ointment with a stopper. Corking will remove ice and excess moisture. After removing the ice, apply several layers of cooler, firmer ointment. If this does not remove the ice, scrape off the previous ointment and apply a harder ointment, rubbing each layer with a cork. As a rule, you can leave the old soil.

Q: If your skis move slowly and you feel heavy when moving, you can do the following:

1. Remove ointment that is too soft or put a layer of harder ointment on it. It is possible that ice formed with the previous ointment (the case described in point A3) or the ointment did not effectively contact the snow. In this case, remove the old ointment and apply a cooler one.


2. Monitor the width of the block. If you apply the holding ointment at a distance greater than recommended, you may lose speed and feel the snow. Scrape off excess ointment with a scraper.
Applying a softer ointment over a harder one is not a problem. Carefully apply thin layers and rub each thoroughly with a cork, but without applying too much pressure. It is also possible to mix a colder, hard klister with a soft one. In this case, the hard klister is applied in dots over the soft one, heated together with an iron and then rubbed together with a cork. This is one way to make the soft klister harder in order to avoid freezing and increase the life of the klister.

For long races during which warmer temperatures are expected, a wax appropriate to the expected temperature level is applied first, followed by a harder one to suit the temperature conditions at the start.
In conditions of high humidity, sometimes a softer ointment (next in the line) is applied than the temperature conditions require. To improve repulsion, apply more coats than usual.
In conditions of low humidity and dry, fine-grained snow the best solution will use an ointment that is colder than required and apply it in thinner layers

V and VR line holding ointments:

These ointments have a huge number of victories in their history. The main difference between the ointments of the V and VR lines is the absence of organofluorine additives. Thanks to this, it became possible to reduce the price with excellent performance characteristics. V line ointments are used in competitions as a base layer for VR ointments
V line holding ointments are traditional holding ointments intended for both amateurs and amateurs. Even though these ointments do not contain fluoride additives, they work great because... they contain fully refined petroleum components, synthetic rubber and pharmaceutical oils. V line holding ointments are often used in top category competitions, either alone or in combination with VR holding ointments.

Despite the fact that VR line keeping ointments were developed for professional racers, they are of undoubted interest for mass sports and recreation due to their excellent qualities, especially at temperatures around zero. These holding ointments are characterized by a high degree of flexibility in application, each VR ointment has two temperature areas of application, one for fresh or falling snow, characterized by sharp-angled snow crystals with a relatively high degree of penetration, and the other for old snow, with rounded crystals and low penetration power.
The formulas of VR line holding ointments are constantly being improved to improve performance characteristics.

Application of klisters:

We recommend applying the klister indoors and, if possible, at room temperature. Application of klisters under these conditions is most comfortable. Also, using a lubrication table, a ski profile, a lubrication iron and a hot hair dryer gives the best results.
Always start by applying a base klister. The use of the basic KV20 spray klister ensures excellent interaction. The basic klister spray is applied directly to the ski last.

KR20 klister is also used as a base layer. Warm up the tube with a hairdryer. Apply a thin layer of klister (string) to each side of the pad from the groove. Melt the klister with an iron at a heating temperature of 110C. The klister layer should not be in the area of ​​the groove and edges of the skis. Then the klister must be gently rubbed with a stopper to distribute it evenly over the block. Skis must be cooled to room temperature before applying the next coat.

For the middle layer we recommend klisters KR30 and KR40. The purpose of this layer is to hold the next layers of klister and create a stable layer of ointment that will work for a long time. Warm up the tube with a hairdryer and apply the klister in the form of a fishbone pattern. Then use a special flat klister scraper from Swix to spread the ointment on both sides of the groove. The klister must be carefully aligned thumb or the heel of your palm, or rub with a cork while it is still warm. Warm up the applied layer of klister with a hairdryer. The last layer is applied klister for current conditions.

Just like solid grip ointments, this klister is applied to the entire area of ​​the cross-country ski last. In this case, the holding zone for solid ointments should be shorter than the holding zone for klisters. It is also necessary to remember that the last layer should provide maximum hold. This layer should be much thicker than all the others. In this case, the base klister is applied in the thinnest layer.
Tip: If you need to apply several types of klisters in one layer, you can alternate each “string” in the “fishbone” using different klisters. Then gently rub with a cork to distribute evenly over the block.

How to apply solid ointment to klister

In wet snow conditions, when a klister is required, there may be areas of dry, fine-grained snow, then you need to apply a solid holding ointment over the klister. First you need to choose a suitable klister. Warm klisters (KR60, KR70 and K22n) are too soft to apply a hard ointment over them. Then you need to choose a solid holding ointment. It should be somewhat cooler than the ointment, which is used under the same conditions, if applied without a klister.

Apply a thin layer of klister indoors and heat with an iron (as described above). Cool the klister outside, and then apply a layer of solid ointment on top of the klister. Gently rub the ointment with the stopper, making sure that the klister does not protrude on top of the ointment. At temperatures around zero, it may be difficult to select an ointment, especially if the snow has not gone through the cycle of melting and re-freezing. Changes in the angle of the slope, as well as the transition from a sunlit section of the route to the shade, all affect the condition of the snow. The track may be icy, and the snow off the track or at the top of the climb may be dry and fine-grained.

In the range around zero, “silver” ointments appear in the collection. High air temperatures require a soft ointment, but it may freeze. The “silver” additive makes the ointment more resistant to ice formation. It's worse in fresh snow, when the crystals penetrate the wax and the snow begins to stick to the block until the skier ends up at the top of a small hill under the block. There's definitely nothing pleasant about it.
However, a way out of such difficult conditions can be found. the main task To remove excess moisture, to do this you need to remove the sticking snow and rub the ointment with your hand or a cork. If you rub with a cork, then droplets of moisture (melted ice) will appear on the surface of the ointment - they need to be removed, and then apply a harder ointment. If the ointment is very frozen or a thick layer of snow has stuck, you will have to remove the ointment and coat the skis with a harder ointment. In this range, Swix offers the following ointments VR50, VR55 and VR60 containing “silver” - these are intended for drier conditions than the VR65 ointment and the VR70 and VR75 klisters. The last two ointments are intended for new wet snow and icy ski tracks.
In wetter conditions or when the ski track is icy, klisters must be used. If there are still sections of the route with dry snow, you need to apply a hard ointment over the klister (K21, KR50 or KR40)

Examples of combinations

Ointments from VR45 to VR60 can be applied over the universal klister K21.
VR40 or VR5S is applied over the Flexi KR50 klister.
VR40 or VR45 is usually applied over the KR40 klister.
Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that each layer of klister is thin, since several layers of klister form excess ointment on the block, which prevents good gliding.

To improve gliding on snow and prevent rolling back when pushing, ski wax is used. In stores you can find many different options, differing not only in composition, consistency, but also in price. However, the cost is not important criterion when choosing best option. The main things to consider are the type of ski, the condition of the snow cover and the air temperature.

Release forms

Ski ointments and paraffins can come in different textures and shapes:

  • hard block;
  • gel;
  • spray;
  • liquid;
  • paste.

If the ointment is in solid form, it should be warmed up before use. Paraffin products are suitable for amateurs, but microcrystallins are used for professional purposes.

Different weather conditions require the use of different textures of products. If you need a universal remedy, it is better to purchase wax. If there are negative temperatures outside, it is better to use semi-solid paraffins. During the thaw, liquid ointment will be the best solution.

The ointment layer should be thinner if it is frosty outside. In spring, it is better not to apply the product to the entire surface of the skis, but to limit it to a small area.

Briko and Briko are considered the best models for surface treatment of skis. A popular option is Swix ski wax. How to apply such products is described below, and it does not take much time. However, their cost will not suit everyone. If you need to choose a high-quality but inexpensive ointment, you can pay attention to the domestic manufacturer - Dynamo. Extensive experience and developments in the field of sporting goods have brought the company to the proper level.

Applying ointments

There are ski waxes for gliding and holding. When driving classically, it is necessary to treat the front and back skis with gliding means. To reduce recoil, ski grip waxes are used, which are applied in the center.

The choice of means is based on the style and method of riding. If skis are purchased to make good use of your weekends, then the costs will be minimal. But for professional races, frequent treatment will be required.

Minimal processing includes the following:

  1. Cleaning the base of the skis.
  2. Application of paraffins.
  3. Polishing.

How to apply

To winter skiing brought pleasure, it is important to know how to use ski wax. Sometimes the attached instructions require too complex actions and additional equipment. However, experienced skiers claim that the process can be simplified.

First you need to sand the block. Next, the ointment is applied in two passes:

  1. Solid paraffin is applied using a hot iron.
  2. After cooling, rub with a stopper.

It is important to avoid applying a thick layer. Otherwise, after rubbing, lumps appear. Also, when used at home, the smell may be disturbing, but when aired, it quickly disappears. It is important to carefully cover the floors so as not to stain the coating with paraffin. Ski wax can leave a stubborn greasy stain.

Sliding aids

Paraffins are very popular as sliding lubricants. However, professional athletes also use additional devices: emulsions and accelerators. Such funds are used up very quickly, but are not cheap. Therefore, if you are planning only amateur trips to the park, then you can do without them. It is worth considering that, despite the fact that paraffin has an unlimited shelf life, it is better not to take it for future use. Depending on the conditions, another option may be needed.

If the air outside is dry and the humidity is less than 50%, then classic paraffins are suitable. In case of high humidity and thaw, it is better to use fluoridated ones. At the same time, the choice of funds is unlimited. It can be replaced with an emulsion, gel or spray. They are fairly easy to apply. It is enough to spray them or use an applicator. After this, the skis are dried, warmed up with a hairdryer and polished. This method takes little time, but the ointments are used up quickly.

Ski grips

Such products are available in liquid and solid form. Holding ointment performs the following functions:

  1. Allows the skier to push off. In this case, under the middle part of the ski a high blood pressure, and the ointment adheres to the snow.
  2. Does not slow down sliding. As you move, the pressure decreases.

Amateur riding does not require complex application. Ski wax must be suitable for weather conditions. In the case of budget options, you should choose a temperature range 3-4 degrees lower than expected outside. If the weather is cooler and the skis slow down, then a product with a lower rating should be applied on top. If the coating is excessively slippery, then an ointment designed for low temperatures is required.

A ski lover should stock up on 3-4 jars of ointment. Temperature range - from +3 to -15. Before applying a new layer, it is recommended to remove the remnants of the old one. Special washes are provided for this.

Solid and liquid ointments

Ski ointment supplied in liquid form is called klystir. It is applied on both sides of the groove in a thin layer. Then you need to spread it evenly with a thin scraper. Clyster can be used at sub-zero and positive temperatures. However, please note that the product stains the case. Therefore, before going outside, skis should be wrapped in a plastic bag. After rolling, the ointment begins to drain. It must be removed with a scraper.

At sub-zero temperatures, it is better to use ointments in solid form. But when using them, the following troubles may arise:

  1. Podlip. Snow sticks if the outside temperature is above zero.
  2. Icing. Ice crystals freeze on the skis. The situation arises if weather conditions predict a thaw.
  3. Excessive braking. If the condition of the snow cover differs on the main ski track and the regular road, then poor gliding is possible.

Preparing plastic skis

A wide variety of products are available for treating wooden surfaces. Ski ointment for plastic skis also released. But the main remedy is paraffin. Their roles vary:

  1. Sliding lubricant - paraffin.
  2. The holding agent is ski wax.

Plastic knurled skis only require gliding wax. However, a holding device can be added under the block. Paraffins and ointments are selected depending on the temperature range.

How to apply ski wax to plastic skis:

  1. Dry and clean the surface.
  2. The paraffin is rubbed with vigorous movements using a cork or a special iron. Particular care should be taken not to burn the ski.
  3. Excess is removed with a scraper.
  4. The surface is rubbed with a sponge.

Holding ointment is applied under the block, and the skis are taken outside to harden. Only after this can they be used.

Required Tools

Any professional skier has a number of care products. sports equipment. An amateur athlete does not need to have a whole arsenal, but it is advisable to have basic tools. If the skis are made of plastic, then you need to purchase a special iron, scraper, paraffin and nylon brush.

If skiing attracts and is expected to regularly go on the ski slopes, then you should purchase the following products:

  1. Plastic scraper. Necessary for removing excess paraffin. It is better to choose a rounded one. It cleans out the grooves better.
  2. Nylon brush. Necessary for hot application of paraffin.
  3. Fiberlen. Used as a finishing sanding material.
  4. Sandpaper. Needed for sanding wooden skis so that the ointments stick better.
  5. Wire brush. Useful only for professionals to remove the old structure. Fans don't have to buy it.
  6. Wash. Used to remove old products. It is recommended for purchase even if the skis are rarely used.
  7. Cork-rubbing. Designed for leveling ointments. Cork is used with paraffins, and plastic is used with ointments.

In addition to special tools, skiers cannot do without accessories. To avoid staining your clothes with ointments, it is better to carry them in a case.

Required kit

Depending on the level of training and frequency of skiing, each skier should have a certain set of ointments. For walks in the park or forest, it is enough to collect a minimum set. You will need holding ointments, a scraper and a remover. It is enough to purchase 3-4 jars of the product, which vary in temperature.

For complete ski care with regular use, you will need an extended kit. At the same time, you can even take part in competitions and use skis in any weather without losing your glide. Should be purchased:

  1. 4-5 jars of ointments.
  2. A set of various paraffins.
  3. Ski iron.
  4. Wash.
  5. Scraper.
  6. A brush.

For professional purposes, it is necessary to supplement the kit with holding ointments with fluoride, accelerators, knurls, emulsions and sprays.

Conclusion

Skiing is quite a popular phenomenon. Professional athletes have specially trained people on their staff who prepare skis for competitions. Amateurs have to take care of their sports equipment themselves. To make your skis glide better and walks a real pleasure, you need to use special ointments and paraffins. Their use is not difficult, but significantly increases cross-country ability. When choosing, you should take into account the ski material and the recommended temperature range.

You should not buy funds in reserve. The required set consists of 3-4 jars. Be sure to buy a scraper and remover.

To easily select a weather-appropriate holding ointment, you need to understand the basics of the collection of ointments, study the main types of snow and its behavior at different temperatures. In the production of modern holding ointments, the best raw materials and formulas are used, and they are prepared using special machines. All this simplifies the process of selecting ointments. When the skier uses his full weight during the take-off phase of the classic stroke, the ski block is pressed into the snow, which grabs the wax and allows for an effective take-off and transition into the gliding phase.

The hardness of snow crystals depends on the temperature; the colder the snow crystals, the harder the ointment must be chosen so that in the repulsion phase the hardness of the ointment corresponds to the hardness of the snow. As the temperature increases, the snow transforms (old snow), the snow crystals become rounded, so you need to choose a softer ointment. When the snow goes through several cycles of refreezing (melts and freezes again), its crystals have a very hard round structure (hard coarse-grained snow), then it’s time to use klister - a liquid holding ointment, which allows the rounded snow crystals to grab and push off the skier. When skiing with a classic stroke on coarse-grained snow, it is the klister that allows you to push off effectively and then glide easily. Problems with selecting an ointment begin at temperatures around zero and fresh snow. The combination of sharp, new crystals of fresh snow and relatively high temperature increases friction during the sliding phase. During friction, heat is released, new snow melts, and a thin film of water is formed, which freezes in a soft ointment. As a result, the skis begin to slip, which interferes with further movement. Ways to avoid such a situation will be discussed further.

A common mistake Swix service reps often encounter is that riders select a wax that is too cold, or too harsh, for the current conditions. The second problem is that the block for holding liquid ointments is chosen shorter than it should be. Racers often pay too much attention to gliding, which is why they choose colder ointments and apply shorter pad lengths. All this leads to ski slipping, which means that the skier loses more energy and time than he saves on sections when moving down the mountain
You can get additional information on how to choose the appropriate ointment using the ointment calculator on the website swixsport.com

Preparing the holding area (pads)

Before applying the holding ointment, the block must be sanded so that the ointment is then absorbed into the base. This does not need to be done every time you apply the ointment - it is enough to clean the block from time to time. Using #100 grit sandpaper, go over the entire length of the block several times in both directions and lift the pile
Tip: to protect the sliding zones from damage by sandpaper, apply a special tape to protect the surface at the beginning of the sliding zone (at the joints with the holding zone).

Processing ointments with a stopper

It is necessary to properly process the ointment with a cork: each layer of ointment must be leveled and polished. Unevenly applied ointment reduces the contact of the pad with the snow, which means worse repulsion. If the ointment is applied correctly using a cork, you can lubricate the skis directly on the ski track with a softer ointment on top of the previously applied one. Pay attention to the groove - the holding ointment there needs to be processed carefully.

Layers of holding ointment

When applying holding ointments, it is recommended to apply several thin layers, each of which is thoroughly rubbed with a stopper. Racers typically use 7-8 layers. The first layer should cover the entire holding area. The holding zone starts from the heel of the fastenings and goes forward 60-65 cm. The last layer should be the shortest and located exactly under the sole of the boot. Thus, the ointment is applied in the form of a pyramid.
Tip: Softer, warmer ointments are easier to apply in several layers if they are cooled first.

Application of holding ointments - Primer

Primer ointment is applied to increase the adhesion of the holding ointment to the sliding surface. Today, dirt is used more and more often in racing. Modern soil does not have a negative effect on sliding, which is why riders use it in races with a distance of more than 10 km.

In very aggressive snow conditions we recommend using VG35 primer as the first coat. For less aggressive snow conditions (cold, fine-grained snow), VG30 soil is used. Usually one thin layer is applied, but if the snow is abrasive and wears off the ointment, then the layer is made thicker. After you apply the ointment, you need to warm it up with an iron (iron temperature is about 110 C). If ski processing takes place outdoors, where there is no source of electricity, use a special iron that is heated with a blowtorch. If there is no possibility of heat treatment of the ointment at all, then it is necessary to carefully rub in each layer using a cork - this will improve the adhesion of the ointment to the material of the sliding surface.

V40 is often used as an addition to the base layer. Apply a thin layer of ointment, go over quickly with an iron to lubricate, allow the ointment to cool and rub it in. Blue Extra ointment has a long history, tested in competitions, so many racers cannot imagine treating skis without it. Primer ointments VG35 and VG30 are the ideal base layer for all holding ointments.

How to choose the right holding ointment for current conditions:

First you need to test your skis. You can apply a layer of colder or warmer ointment on top of the originally selected ointment. You should not waste time and effort on tests; the ointment needs time to adapt to the snow conditions. Usually at first (several hundred meters) the ointment slips, this is normal. If the initially chosen ointment works well, then all that remains is to go on the ski track. Additional layers of ointment are only needed if there is a long race ahead.

A: If the skis continue to slip, there are three solutions:

1. Apply several more layers of the same ointment. It may be necessary to extend the pad area forward. A thicker layer of wax will allow the snow to grab onto the wax and give the skier an effective push-off. Remember that the ointment is applied in the form of a pyramid.
2. If the ointment does not provide proper repulsion (too hard, too cold), apply a softer warm ointment on top of the already applied ointment. If this helps solve the problem, apply several additional layers of warm ointment. Again, be sure to apply an additional layer to the last in the sole area of ​​the boot.
3. If too soft (too warm) ointment was initially applied, the block may begin to freeze in conditions of new fine-grained snow. The ski will slip in turns and glide worse. If it is not immediately clear whether the ointment is freezing or not, apply a little more of the same ointment. If it is impossible to apply more ointment (it slips off), then the ointment is too soft and will freeze. In this case, you need to thoroughly rub the ointment with a stopper. Corking will remove ice and excess moisture. After removing the ice, apply several layers of cooler, firmer ointment. If this does not remove the ice, scrape off the previous ointment and apply a harder ointment, rubbing each layer with a cork. As a rule, you can leave the old soil.

Q: If your skis move slowly and you feel heavy when moving, you can do the following:

1. Remove ointment that is too soft or put a layer of harder ointment on it. It is possible that ice formed with the previous ointment (the case described in point A3) or the ointment did not effectively contact the snow. In this case, remove the old ointment and apply a cooler one.


2. Monitor the width of the block. If you apply the holding ointment at a distance greater than recommended, you may lose speed and feel the snow. Scrape off excess ointment with a scraper.
Applying a softer ointment over a harder one is not a problem. Carefully apply thin layers and rub each thoroughly with a cork, but without applying too much pressure. It is also possible to mix a colder, hard klister with a soft one. In this case, the hard klister is applied in dots over the soft one, heated together with an iron and then rubbed together with a cork. This is one way to make the soft klister harder in order to avoid freezing and increase the life of the klister.

For long races during which warmer temperatures are expected, a wax appropriate to the expected temperature level is applied first, followed by a harder one to suit the temperature conditions at the start.
In conditions of high humidity, sometimes a softer ointment (next in the line) is applied than the temperature conditions require. To improve repulsion, apply more coats than usual.
In conditions of low humidity and dry, fine-grained snow, the best solution is to use a colder ointment than required and apply it in thinner layers

V and VR line holding ointments:

These ointments have a huge number of victories in their history. The main difference between the ointments of the V and VR lines is the absence of organofluorine additives. Thanks to this, it became possible to reduce the price with excellent performance characteristics. V line ointments are used in competitions as a base layer for VR ointments
V line holding ointments are traditional holding ointments intended for both amateurs and amateurs. Even though these ointments do not contain fluoride additives, they work great because... they contain fully refined petroleum components, synthetic rubber and pharmaceutical oils. V line holding ointments are often used in top category competitions, either alone or in combination with VR holding ointments.

Despite the fact that VR line keeping ointments were developed for professional racers, they are of undoubted interest for mass sports and recreation due to their excellent qualities, especially at temperatures around zero. These holding ointments are characterized by a high degree of flexibility in application, each VR ointment has two temperature areas of application, one for fresh or falling snow, characterized by sharp-angled snow crystals with a relatively high degree of penetration, and the other for old snow, with rounded crystals and low penetration power.
The formulas of VR line holding ointments are constantly being improved to improve performance characteristics.

Application of klisters:

We recommend applying the klister indoors and, if possible, at room temperature. Application of klisters under these conditions is most comfortable. Also, using a lubrication table, a ski profile, a lubrication iron and a hot hair dryer gives the best results.
Always start by applying a base klister. The use of the basic KV20 spray klister ensures excellent interaction. The basic klister spray is applied directly to the ski last.

KR20 klister is also used as a base layer. Warm up the tube with a hairdryer. Apply a thin layer of klister (string) to each side of the pad from the groove. Melt the klister with an iron at a heating temperature of 110C. The klister layer should not be in the area of ​​the groove and edges of the skis. Then the klister must be gently rubbed with a stopper to distribute it evenly over the block. Skis must be cooled to room temperature before applying the next coat.

For the middle layer we recommend klisters KR30 and KR40. The purpose of this layer is to hold the next layers of klister and create a stable layer of ointment that will work for a long time. Warm up the tube with a hairdryer and apply the klister in the form of a fishbone pattern. Then use a special flat klister scraper from Swix to spread the ointment on both sides of the groove. The klister should be carefully leveled with your thumb or the heel of your palm, or rubbed with a cork while it is still warm. Warm up the applied layer of klister with a hairdryer. The last layer is applied klister for current conditions.

Just like solid grip ointments, this klister is applied to the entire area of ​​the cross-country ski last. In this case, the holding zone for solid ointments should be shorter than the holding zone for klisters. It is also necessary to remember that the last layer should provide maximum hold. This layer should be much thicker than all the others. In this case, the base klister is applied in the thinnest layer.
Tip: If you need to apply several types of klisters in one layer, you can alternate each “string” in the “fishbone” using different klisters. Then gently rub with a cork to distribute evenly over the block.

How to apply solid ointment to klister

In wet snow conditions, when a klister is required, there may be areas of dry, fine-grained snow, then you need to apply a solid holding ointment over the klister. First you need to choose a suitable klister. Warm klisters (KR60, KR70 and K22n) are too soft to apply a hard ointment over them. Then you need to choose a solid holding ointment. It should be somewhat cooler than the ointment, which is used under the same conditions, if applied without a klister.

Apply a thin layer of klister indoors and heat with an iron (as described above). Cool the klister outside, and then apply a layer of solid ointment on top of the klister. Gently rub the ointment with the stopper, making sure that the klister does not protrude on top of the ointment. At temperatures around zero, it may be difficult to select an ointment, especially if the snow has not gone through the cycle of melting and re-freezing. Changes in the angle of the slope, as well as the transition from a sunlit section of the route to the shade, all affect the condition of the snow. The track may be icy, and the snow off the track or at the top of the climb may be dry and fine-grained.

In the range around zero, “silver” ointments appear in the collection. High air temperatures require a soft ointment, but it may freeze. The “silver” additive makes the ointment more resistant to ice formation. It's worse in fresh snow, when the crystals penetrate the wax and the snow begins to stick to the block until the skier ends up at the top of a small hill under the block. There's definitely nothing pleasant about it.
However, a way out of such difficult conditions can be found. The main task is to remove excess moisture; to do this, you need to remove the sticking snow and rub the ointment with your hand or a cork. If you rub with a cork, then droplets of moisture (melted ice) will appear on the surface of the ointment - they need to be removed, and then apply a harder ointment. If the ointment is very frozen or a thick layer of snow has stuck, you will have to remove the ointment and coat the skis with a harder ointment. In this range, Swix offers the following ointments VR50, VR55 and VR60 containing “silver” - these are intended for drier conditions than the VR65 ointment and the VR70 and VR75 klisters. The last two ointments are intended for new wet snow and icy ski tracks.
In wetter conditions or when the ski track is icy, klisters must be used. If there are still sections of the route with dry snow, you need to apply a hard ointment over the klister (K21, KR50 or KR40)

Examples of combinations

Ointments from VR45 to VR60 can be applied over the universal klister K21.
VR40 or VR5S is applied over the Flexi KR50 klister.
VR40 or VR45 is usually applied over the KR40 klister.
Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that each layer of klister is thin, since several layers of klister form excess ointment on the block, which prevents good gliding.