​Additional controls – do you need them? Elastic rein adapters

Everyone strives to make their life as comfortable as possible. If, for example, your car’s carburetor or wheel alignment, clutch or speed are not adjusted, you need to fix it urgently. After all, only when everything is in order with the “iron horse” can you not worry about the upcoming trip and any long journey will seem like a pleasure ride.

It's almost the same with a horse. If something is “not regulated”, training and competitions turn into torture. To make it easier for the horseman to work with the horse, so that training does not turn into a struggle between man and animal, so that the contact between the rider and the horse is as complete as possible, a lot of auxiliary equipment has been invented, which will be discussed today.

Harmful head

Martingale does not educate, he helps the horse find the desired head position that the rider requires of it. If the horse is well-trained, but when under load it begins to get nervous and “flashy”, a simple version of the martingale is used. It is considered the most harmless, the softest. Martingale rings come in small and large diameters. The smaller the diameter, the stricter the martingale, the more more effort, transferred to the horse, and the influence is stronger. Martingales are mainly made from leather. They come in different widths, which, however, does not affect anything other than strength. You can also make a braid martingale to order, but the question is – why?

Floating reins are used when a horse lifts its head, twists it, “drags”, does not chew, bites the bit, etc. Such reins are now undeservedly forgotten, but they have a complex effect. In fact, these are a pair of reins, onto which seven half-rings are sewn at a certain distance right along the length of the rein closer to the muzzle, in order to attach carabiners from additional belts to them. An additional strap with one carabiner is attached to the half-ring on the rein and passed through the martingale ring to the bit, to which it is attached with a buckle, as on a regular rein. The closer to the muzzle the additional belt is fastened, the softer it acts. When the rider takes the rein, the martingale and the rein begin to act simultaneously. But this effect is so mild that even the most inexperienced riders can easily find contact with the horse without causing harm to it. The floating rein is always made of leather.

If the horse takes the work angrily, constantly “flashes”, lifts its head so that it hits the rider’s face with its head (this happens often, and if the bridle has a buckle on the back of the head, then it hits the rider’s nose), then put it on "dead" groove. Sliding reins are often referred to as sliding cords, so for the sake of clarity, the common cord has been dubbed a “dead” one. The “dead” cord is attached to the noseband (if the cord is branched, then to the bit) and to the girth. It is of a certain length and is adjustable by the rider. The dowel prevents the horse from raising his head above the level at which it is fastened. But when using a dead rope, the rider must be experienced, otherwise the horse may fall. The “dead” dowel is most often single leather and double leather (with leather stitching). It is usually made very powerful as it is worn on problem horses.

Sliding reins (schleifzigels, from German Schleifen - slide and Zugel - rein) - an additional rein passed through the bit rings (or through rings that are connected by short straps to the bit rings) and fastened at the ends to the girth or the front of the saddle. By pulling on the sliding rein, the rider forces the horse to yield at the poll.

Sliding reins are intended not only for controlling the horse, but also for re-education. An experienced rider can pick up the sliding reins or, on the contrary, release them, that is, let the horse rest and stretch his neck. Sliding reins can be detachable or non-detachable. One-piece ones are fastened to a girth (raising and lowering the head in a certain plane). The detachable sliding reins have two straps at the bottom. You can fasten both belts to the girth, or you can separate them and fasten them to the girths. If the sliding reins are fastened to the girth, then a kind of triangle is obtained. In this case, the effect on the horse is harsher. If the sliding rein straps are fastened on the sides, the action will be no less strict, but at the same time it will make it easier for the rider to work with turning the horse's head left and right (in this case, the force directed up and down is somewhat lost).

The best option is when such reins are made of leather. But slipping braid reins can cause a lot of wear and tear on your hands.

Saddle with suspenders

Strap (chest harness)- This is a belt with leather stitching, where felt or foam rubber is laid, running along the chest of the horse, with a neck strap that is adjustable higher and lower. The main purpose of the strap is to hold the saddle so that it does not slide back. The underarm has exactly the same purpose. The strap differs from the brace in its shape; it lies quite low and does not hit the muscles. There is also a strap with a martingale belt, which is sewn in the center (or a ring is inserted in the center, and a belt is already attached to it). If the rider uses a martingale and at the same time needs to support the saddle, then in order not to use two parts at once, a strap with a martingale belt is put on. There are also straps with such a belt on a ring, where the belt is not tightly sewn to the ring, but is fastened. If necessary, the martingale is fastened, and if it is not needed, then only the strap can be used. Leather straps with soft leather stitching are usually worn on trotters. Rubber straps are used for racing horses so as not to hinder the horse's movements.

Underarm (breastplate) has the shape of a triangle. Two straps on the sides go to the rings, straps coming from the rings are attached to the saddle, and a strap at the bottom goes between the horse's front legs and is attached to the girth. The pad prevents the saddle from slipping back on climbs. It is most often used for walking and hiking. The underbrace can be made of braid, leather, leather with soft stitching (for horses with delicate skin) and rubber. Braid differs from leather only in price and durability (leather lasts longer if properly cared for), while rubber is mainly used for sports horses.

Trok- this is, one might say, a circular girth. There are tracks for blankets and tracks for saddles. The blanket track is most often made of wide braid and serves to hold the blanket on the horse. The saddle track is used for Cossack or racing saddles. For a Cossack saddle - leather trok. It pulls the pillow to the saddle. For a racing saddle - a rubber track on a buckle, with a long leather strap on the other side. This rope additionally secures the racing saddle.

Not cashier's checks

Ober-check(from the English over-check - upper limiter), the so-called “dead” check, which is used in trotting tests and regulates the position of the trotter’s head. In this case, an additional piece of iron – a bit – is inserted into the horse’s mouth. Two straps extend from it, pass through the muzzle, and converge into one strap, the end of which is draped over the saddle. The ober-check serves to raise the horse's head and extend it at the poll. It has a very small degree of freedom and is only available in leather.

Side check (“floating” check) passes through the loop on the corner strap of the bridle from the half-ring on the saddle to the ring, at which it bifurcates and goes to the bit. The side check does not prevent poll flexion, but also allows the horse's head to rise. The most common use of the side check is when riding over rough terrain to prevent the horse from falling if he stumbles. In trotting trials, side checks can be placed on horses that “lie down” on the over check and simply tear it. Hiking over rough terrain, going downhill, etc. necessarily require the use of a side check. The effects of side-check and over-check are basically the same, but side-check does not require additional hardware. Side-checks come in leather and rawhide (the rawhide stretches, but does not tear).

Spring-lever system

Obergut(edge, edge, from German gurt - girth) is used to work with loose ends in the hands. In fact, this is a saddle, but not like a trotter, hard, on the lever, but soft. The continuation of this saddle is the girth. The obergut has a central ring and rings on the sides. Available with one pair of rings and two pairs. Obergut with two pairs of rings has more options for fastening the interchanges. In the absence of a guard, the decouplings can be attached to the saddle (fastened to the straps or side rings/half rings). A circus edge, with two handles at the top, is used for vaulting. Obergut comes in leather and braid.

Interchanges fix the horse's head in the desired position. This is a belt of complex configuration that is fastened from the bit to the saddle or to the obergut (gurt). If there are two pairs of rings on the obergut, then the junctions can be placed higher or lower. If the horse lifts its head, then the collars are lowered; if, on the contrary, it “buries itself,” then it is raised. The interchanges are made of leather, braid and rubber. There is no difference between braid and leather, except in price and durability, and rubber gives an additional degree of freedom.

Chambon- a type of interchange. The chambon cords are fastened on each side to the snaffle ring, then passed through rings sewn in at the junction of the browband with the cheek strap (or through the rings of a special belt, which is attached to the head strap with additional straps), through the ring they converge into one belt passing between the front legs horse and fastened to a girth or edge. Chambon does not limit the extension of the head and neck, so it is used for dressage of horses whose back muscles are overly tense. Chambon is mainly used when working in the hands.

Gog resembles a chambon, only it is not attached with carabiners to the snaffle rings, but is passed through them and fastened to the rings on additional straps sewn to the main belt. It turns out to be a kind of triangle with a complex lever system. In action, the gog resembles a kind of symbiosis of a side-check and a floating rein. The upper (with rings) part of the chambon and gog and the belt attached to the girth are most often made of leather, and the cords are silk, nylon and rubber. But it is always a round flagellum that ends with a carabiner.

Technical inspection

The main thing when choosing the equipment described above is to know exactly what you want from your horse. Otherwise, instead of correcting the mistake, you can spoil or even cripple the horse. And beginners cannot work with these items of ammunition without a trainer!

When choosing ammunition, you shouldn’t go for cheapness, but you shouldn’t buy an expensive item without looking, because the price can vary greatly depending on what kind of markup the trading company makes. Therefore, you need to pay attention not only to the manufacturing company, but also to the trading company.

When choosing ammunition, you should carefully examine the item from all sides. And let them accuse you of suspiciousness. Such suspiciousness in a store can later save a life during a competition or training. Buckles and rings must be well sewn, as there is a strong “breaking” load. The rings must be boiled or chopped, checked for stretching. The rubber ring in leather and braid joints should have a safety strap inside in case the ring breaks. With rubber decouples such a strap does not always exist.

Next, it is advisable to check the seams. Everything should be well stitched with thick threads and secured. The bend must be sufficient for the power parts. For example, in the bridle the bend is 5 cm, and in the junctions near the ring it is 8 cm.

Since all this ammunition carries power load, the quality of the leather is of great importance. When choosing, you can bend the leather in half - the front part should not crack. If in the store they say: “Don’t do this - you’ll ruin it,” then move away from the counter: nothing will happen to good skin if you bend it like that.

When choosing braid ammunition, you need to pay attention to those places where metal rings (half rings) are inserted. In these places, it is desirable to strengthen against rubbing with leather pads. By the way, such enhancement is present in Belarusian-made ammunition, but not in imported items.

On cheap imported ammunition, the pins on the buckles may become bent. If the so-called tail bends when pressed with your fingers, you cannot take the item with such a buckle. Either it will be unfastened all the time, or it will be so fastened that it can only be unfastened with pliers.

The company does not knit brooms

Expensive well-known companies make good quality ammunition. For example, French products have always been distinguished by their quality, although their price is not affordable for everyone. But now cheap French products have begun to appear on the domestic market, which is very strange and suspicious. French ammunition cannot fall in price like that, especially in Russia alone! So before you start rubbing your hands joyfully in connection with a successful purchase of French production, think about whether this equipment was made around the nearest corner by the novice saddler Vasya Frantsuzov.

Good ammunition is produced by Italian companies (for example, Daslo, DMS). Italian ammunition is of high quality and cheaper than French, approximately average in price. German ammunition is also of high quality. But the Polish one is mainly made of pressed leather.

With cheap imported goods, problems may arise after some time of use. The fact is that it is made from split leather with a special impregnation, ironed with a hot roller. Such a product can only be coated from the inside out. But domestic leather can be oiled right through. This changes the color of the leather, preserves it better and lasts longer.

Very often people get caught up in cheap and low-quality imported oberguts. The basis of a good obergut (the belt that is sewn inside and on which everything is held) is leather or other powerful material. The cheap ones have a cardboard base, and when it breaks, everything breaks. There is no way to tell this in the store, everything is sewn up, nothing is visible. You need to focus on the company and the price. If the seller allows, you can bend the wrapper in the center, and if after 10-20 movements it becomes too easy to bend in this place, then there is cardboard inside. This means that you have already broken the base, and whoever buys this obergut will buy a new one in a month.

Unfortunately, no one is immune from purchasing a low-quality product. In this regard, I would like to repeat once again that you should buy ammunition in a reputable store and, if possible, with a professional! We must also remember that the service life of the ammunition depends on its periodic preventive inspection, timely repair and proper care for leather or rawhide. And good, well-maintained equipment is the key to victory.

Many thanks to the staff of Good Pony Club LLC (CMC saddlery workshop) for their help in preparing the material.

How justified is the use of additional reins today? Opinions among equestrians on this issue vary. Some believe that it is impossible to do without auxiliary aids when working with young horses or when training inexperienced riders, others believe that extra “ropes” lead to the horse developing bad habits, and in the hands of a non-professional they can be harmful or even dangerous for the horse. So is the game worth the candle?

The knot will be tied...

Any auxiliary reins are designed to make training easier for both rider and horse. The most simple devices that will force the horse to lower his head and neck and relax his back are decoys, which are “elastic bands” or leather straps with rubber inserts. They help teach the horse to hold the reins, neck and head, develop balance, and move with the correct gaits, so they are mainly used for working in the hands or on the line. At first, you should not fix the horse's head rigidly, so as not to suppress the desire to move forward. Then, as the horse begins to take the reins, the releases can be shortened. When working on breakouts, you should remember that rigid, non-stretchable breakouts have a harmful effect on the horse's mouth and dull its sensitivity. In addition, it is worth keeping in mind the certain danger of using this product under riding. Everyone has probably seen horses in rentals under saddle and in roundhouses - it is believed that in this way it is easier for a beginner to cope with a horse that is “badly behaving.” However, nervous animals can even roll over at junctions, and such cases, alas, are not uncommon. This is why decouplings are considered a strict type of equipment. The animal's head is fixed to a certain limit, that is, the horse cannot stretch its neck and thus support itself when jumping or falling, therefore, if it stumbles or slips at the junctions at a fast gait, it will fly by inertia into the ground.

With the precision of a pianist

The dowel, or sliding rein, has a less severe impact on the horse than the reins. Sliding reins can be leather, cord or a combination; they are attached to the girth, then passed through the snaffle rings and fixed in the rider's hands in a similar way to a bit rein. It is very important to be able to work correctly with a dowel. Sliding reins help to “soften” the horse if he is pushing very hard and holding his head with an “axe”. If the horse “lays down on the reins”, “goes behind it,” then a good design is when the dowel from the girth passes through the ears, then through the bit and to the hand.

Dowel - good remedy, but only in competent hands, they need to constantly work: recruit, dismiss, capture ideal moments. In “dead” hands, you can “drive a horse by the reins” with a dowel in a week, and then it will take a very long time to correct it. Thus, it is best to work with this remedy under the supervision of a trainer. If the rider is competent and there is a problem with collection, a sliding rein will help solve it, however, if the problem is that the horse does not pull down, then it is better to work on the line on a properly fitted chambon.

To have muscles like an antique sculpture

The main purpose of the chambon is to strengthen the horse's shoulders, neck and back through engagement the right muscles. Chambon is designed to relax the back and improve the function of the hindquarters, and it also helps to balance the animal. Chambons can be solid or combined (rubber + leather (or braid)) and are used only when working on cord. The reins pass through rings on the poll strap and are attached to the bit ring. The chambon holds the horse's head at a certain height, which relaxes the neck and lower back and “swings” them, but it must be used very carefully. You can work with chambon only for a limited time and give a strictly dosed load. It should also be remembered that galloping on a chambon does not start right away. Work on a chambon is long and painstaking: it is important to tighten the reins correctly (when the horse moves correctly, they should sag freely) and it is better, again, to resort to the help of a trainer.

Room for maneuver

Both chambon and gog are used when working on the line, but if the chambon is suitable for developing the muscles of the horse's back and neck when working only on the line, then the latter performs the same functions also under the saddle. The gog allows the horse to relax and lower its neck, creating additional pressure on the horse's poll. The gog can be placed on a horse in two ways, making it more versatile. The design of the gog is similar to the chambon, but the ropes are not attached to the bit, but are passed through the bit rings. When working on a cord, ropes with carabiners at the ends cling to the belt ring, which then goes to the girth. When working under the saddle, the ropes are attached to the reins, however, it is not recommended to work with one rein and it is best to attach another rein to the snaffle rings. Usually the gog is used when teaching horseback riding to beginners, inexperienced riders, when working on a line pulling horses, for animals with a heavily loaded, “heavy” front. When starting to work with a chambon and gogue, it is recommended to fit them loosely enough so that the horse gets used to the new equipment. Chambon and gog allow you to strengthen certain muscle groups of the horse without strengthening the rest of the muscles, which makes their use more preferable compared to uncouplings and doweling.

Perfect balance

The Thodeman rein, or balancing rein, is used when working young horses; it helps the animal lower its neck and create an even emphasis on the rein. The Todeman rein is, in fact, a mixture of a martingale and a sliding rein, only the rider has one rein in his hands, which is fixed in three positions by refastening the carabiners. It is very easy to “pull” a young horse with a sliding rein (as a result the horse goes behind the rein), so it is not advisable to use it. The balancing rein has a softer effect and at the same time gives the horse's neck a rounded and raised position, the horse's muscles are activated and movements become more free. However, a soft hand is also important when working with a Thodeman rein. Balancing reason is a very reasonable, logical and at the same time gentle remedy. Unlike the dowel, it can be given to even a less experienced rider.

Fight for the candles!

With a martingale you can jump and work throughout the entire workout. It does not fix the horse's head rigidly, it just slightly limits its position. In addition to the fact that the martingale prevents the horse from raising its head (including when the horse got scared of something and bolted), and prevents it from “flashing”, it also prevents the rider’s hands from improperly pressing on the horse’s mouth. Excessive hand raising occurs not only among beginners, but also among more advanced experienced athletes, for example, when approaching an obstacle. Martingales are mainly made of leather with rings of small and large diameters: the smaller the diameter, the stricter the martingale and the stronger the effect on the horse. Putting on a martingale in the following way: a girth is threaded through one end and then tightened, and a rein is passed through the rings. Among the disadvantages of martingale, it can be noted that it does not carry any training purpose and is not a 100% panacea for the possible vagaries of a horse. Additionally, the martingale may interfere with good contact with the horse's mouth.

If you're not sure, don't overtake

Does the horse (or rider) need additional reins? Firstly, it depends on what the horse is used for: if it’s just for a pleasant pastime, it’s unlikely; if you have serious sporting ambitions, you can’t do without aids, because the horse itself, alas, won’t do anything, and it needs to help to some extent. In addition to special devices for working with a horse, people have come up with a lot of tools to help achieve the goal faster and more efficiently. Today, athletes have at their disposal many state-of-the-art simulators that simulate different loads, weather conditions and even create virtual reality! The situation is similar with horse training: if you need a horse for yourself, for your soul, you can prepare it like this - go to the fields, ride on a line. However, if you need an athlete, an athlete, then for correct extension and strengthening muscles, various devices are needed. The main thing is an individual approach to each horse and care when working with additional reins, because if you try really hard, you can do harm with anything and “pump up” the horse’s mouth so that you can’t hold it with any hands. Therefore, if you are not very confident in your capabilities, it is better not to experiment and trust a professional.

The following types of auxiliary reins are distinguished:

1. Denouement. The horse is "untied" when contact is made between the bit ring and the girth on the right and left using this type of rein. The horse is loosened briefly when his nose goes beyond the vertical and his mouth approaches his chest. And the horse is long “untied” when the line of its forehead is up to the vertical. Apart from long-line work, the breaker is not used for dressage because this type of rein contributes to the overall stiffness of the horse. These reins are used in the first hours of horse riding, while the beginning rider has not yet learned to maintain balance.

2. The martingale, also called a “jumping rein,” is a two-piece strap, one end of which is attached to the girth and passes between the horse’s front legs or is attached to the chest strap. The other two ends are the same length and end in rings through which the snaffle reins pass. The martingale should be of such length that it hangs in an arc at an angle to the bit. If the horse hits its head or wants to raise it too high, the martingale will not be able to prevent this, but it must limit this movement. And this will make it possible for the rider in such moments not to completely lose power over the horse, and it will not hit him with its head in the face.

Martingale is by no means an aid to dressage horses. But its use is beneficial, and above all in show jumping, horse hunting and when riding hot horses in the field.

3. Sliding reins. Sliding reins consist of two straps about 2.75 m long. On one side, the ends of the straps are attached at the height of the rider's knee to the girth. From here they pass from the inside through the rings of the bit below it and end in the rider's hand; the right rein passes through the right bit ring into the rider's right hand, and the left rein passes into the rider's left. The inside sides of both straps of the first half should be facing the horse so that the smooth sides slide in the bit rings without much friction.

The rider must use the sliding reins carefully because too much force will pull the horse's mouth toward his chest. These reins can only be used by a rider who perfectly understands how a horse feels when it correctly obeys the commands when he holds its head in front of him, as if fixed between two levers.

Sliding reins offer the opportunity to achieve “correct head position” with the help of your hands, without pushing the horse from behind to the reins, that is, without collection.

Sliding reins are used correctly if their effect is intermittent and is accompanied by a sufficiently strong force as long as the horse has stiffness in the muscles of the neck, poll or ganache. By applying slight pressure from the outside hand to the inside sliding rein, the horse is encouraged to yield. This method is described in detail in the book. Accordingly, the sliding rein must act only one-sidedly and never on both sides at the same time. The essence of its action is that, acting on one side, it turns off on the other. If the horse has yielded on both sides, then the use of sliding reins loses its meaning.

If these reins are used to force a certain stance or half-pass from the horse, then reasonable dressage is out of the question. The logical consequence of this will be the horse's refusal to obey.

If the sliding reins do not bring success after a few minutes of using them, then there is evidence that they are not being used correctly and that it is better to leave them, otherwise the difficulties will only increase.

Whip

In dressage and horseback riding, the rider uses an elastic whip, the upper end of which is much heavier than the lower end, so the rider holds it by the center of gravity. In this position, the whip is springy and can be used without making sweeping movements with your hand. It is more convenient than a stack or a short whip that is held by the handle. A short blow of suitable strength is applied with a whip close behind the girth. The impact of the blow is sufficient, so the horse does not need to be frightened by the whistle of the whip cutting through the air. If you need to hit with a whip, then it is done with appropriate force, and not at all playfully, hesitantly and finding out how the horse will react to this. You should not hit in anger, and you should always be aware of the strength of your blow.

If a horse is mounted with a whip, it is held in the left hand. In this case, it is necessary that the horse does not see the whip, otherwise he will be afraid of it from the very beginning.

If the rider wants another athlete to pass the whip to him, then this should be done without the horse noticing the whip, because he is always afraid of it.

The whip is used: when training untrained horses, in order to inspire the sending action of the legs and muscles of the lumbosacral region, when riding poorly ridden or spoiled horses, when they do not obey and lie on the reins, do not go forward enough after the influence of the legs (as untrained horses do) if they are lazy or as a punishment.

If the horse does not respond or is reluctant to respond to the influence of the legs, he can be reminded of this with a blow of the whip. This can be done both to support the leg sending forward and to support the sending to the side. A light blow is enough, but it is necessary to simultaneously use the leg. If you hit only after an unsuccessful use of the leg, the horse will not understand the relationship between the hit and its cause. In this case, the horse will only be intimidated, but there will be no success.

The whip is not suitable for riding in the field or in show jumping. Here you can, if necessary, use a stack 60-80 centimeters long.

Spurs

Until a novice rider learns to control his legs, he is not allowed to use spurs, because with them he can only injure the horse, tickle him and induce him to jump, from which he himself will fly out of the saddle. If the rider has learned to sit so firmly that he is able to control his legs, then he can be allowed to use spurs. Spurs are needed only in those moments when the legs need to be emphasized. If spurs are used excessively, the horse's sensitivity becomes more and more dull. The less the rider uses spurs, the better. Resisting the use of spurs, the horse kicks with its hind legs. In most cases, this is a sign that the spur injection was given with inappropriate force, hesitantly, or it lasted too long. A single injection inflicted at the moment when something is demanded from the horse, it never resists. If a horse kicks with its hind leg, the rider should interpret this as a statement from his horse that he has not yet learned to use spurs correctly. She gives the same reminder to the rider by waving her tail. Many horses constantly swing their tails when they are tickled with spurs. Some riders respond to a trainer who points out their inability to handle spurs: “I can’t get anything out of a horse with spurs because he doesn’t feel them.” Any rider should feel how his legs fit against the horse's body. If he has not learned this, then he needs to remove the spurs and first learn to feel it.

Injections with spurs should be short and made close to the girth; By raising the knee, the rider will bring the spur into more contact with the horse's body. At the same time, the toe of the foot goes down slightly and into outside. Injections with spurs are not beneficial and are incorrect if the rider does not simultaneously work the lumbosacral region and leg.

Spurs should be used especially carefully when riding sensitive horses and mares in heat.

The voice is an aid always available to the rider. They can be used to send or calm a horse. The voice is used just as carefully as spurs. A kind, soft voice has a calming effect, while a sharp, ringing voice is more likely to inflame the horse.

You should never speak loudly in a stable.

Korda

The cord is an auxiliary tool for working with horses in the hands; it is a cord about 7 meters long, which is held in the left hand, driving the horse along the cord to the left, and driving the horse to the right - in right hand. The cord is attached to the bit ring. The other end of the cord and the 2-3 meters of cord remaining when moving in a circle are in the other hand of the cord operator. In this case, you need to pay attention so that the part folded into several circles does not hang low and the cord does not get tangled in it. The cord must be held in your hand so that it can be lengthened or shortened at any time.

The leading hand is at the height of the horse's mouth and regulates the tension of the cord. Riding on the line with your hand down and the line hanging down is moving the horse, but not working on the line.

Work on the line is the very first work with young horses; it is practiced to teach the horse to walk under the saddle, when jumping, correcting poorly ridden horses and before just with horses with weak backs. Work on the long line is also used if the rider has not yet learned to get into the rhythm of the horse’s movement and with horses that have lost their speed and reach, as well as with those that should be spared after suffering an illness. On the long line, the horse works correctly when it moves with calm, sweeping gaits.

When working on a line, an important role is played by the attachment of auxiliary reins, uniform, skillful use of the line, whip and voice. Both of the latter possibilities of influence replace the lumbosacral region and the rider's leg, while the influences of the reins are more or less actively transmitted through the cord and passively through the corresponding rein attachment. Attaching the reins and using the voice and whip require skill and concentrated attention. During work, you often have to adjust the cord attachment. Racing a horse on a long line is more difficult than many people think. Riders who have not learned to get into the rhythm of the horse's movement will never replace the missing skill with work on the line. A horse can be temporarily corrected with a cord, but if the rider sits incorrectly in the saddle, he will quickly ruin it again. Therefore, it is better to correct your horse by learning to get into the rhythm of its movement.

Cavalletti

Cavalletti are poles placed in the direction of the horse at a height of about 20 centimeters and spaced about 1.40 meters apart. When a horse under a rider is forced to walk or trot through the cavaletti, they achieve:

1) so that the horse pays close attention to the ground, and encourage him to move his legs higher. If the rider does not interfere with her, she will usually stretch her neck forward and down and relax her back muscles. If the demands on it are too high, especially when working with hot horses or horses with weak backs, or if the cavaletti are placed in such a way that the horse touching them will push them, and the next one will step on them, then more damage will result. , than the benefits;

2) so that the rider feels relaxed and able to adapt to the rhythm of the horse’s movement. And in order not to lag behind the rhythm of its movement and not to disturb the horse’s mouth and back, the rider must, by intensively closing his knees, try to enter the rhythm of his movement.

Working on cavaletti benefits horses with short, broad back, causing them to relax, as well as poorly riding horses with stiff backs and walking out of step.

And yet the work of the cavalletti is greatly overrated. The horse, walking through them, of course, stretches his neck forward and down, but the rider in no way learns to independently achieve this movement with the help of a promise, just as he would not have learned this if stretching of the neck was stimulated by bringing a bag to his head.

This article is about devices that are created and used to lower a horse's head. They all have the same function - they limit the height to which the horse can lift his head, and force the animal to solve the problem of how to cope with the pressure they create.

For my part, I am convinced that it is necessary to look for other methods of influence, to achieve not a mechanical lowering of the head into the desired position, but stretching and lengthening the neck, which encourages the horse to stretch and raise its back. This is what makes her “liberated”...

The devices only affect the front of the horse - the rear can work as usual.

Implements can be defined as any equipment worn on a horse other than a conventional saddle and bridle with bit or bridle with mouthpiece, or as “articles of equipment that affect the horse mechanically,” as distinguished from aids. I like the second definition better, although its boundaries are fuzzy. In some cases, something that is not part of a simple bridle and saddle may benefit the horse but is not intended for direct "use" by the rider, such as bit stabilizers ("bibs") that prevent the bit ring from getting into the horse's mouth. When pulled, it gnawed in my mouth.

So, let's look at the most common auxiliary controls.

Sliding reins (spring)

The most talked about aid used in dressage is the sliding reins. On German they are called Schlaufzugel (loop reins) and, jokingly, Schlafzugel (sleeping reins). No other device is abused as often. Some riders simply cannot imagine their work without them.

A dowel is the simplest device. These are simply two long reins that are attached at one end to a girth between the horse's legs, or on the sides. From there they, passing through the bit rings on both sides, return to the rider’s hands. The fixed length between the girth, bit and hands prevents the horse from lifting his head or sticking his nose out further than the bridle allows.

Dowels are used for a variety of purposes. Many riders use it as a last resort in the fight against acceleration and spin. Some believe that it helps prevent failures when starting to teach a horse how to change in the air. However, most riders use the bridle because they are unable to get contact from their horses, or as a reminder of the times when their horse ran with its head up due to lack of balance or other difficulties. Why do I find dowels unacceptable? Will explain…

Strength and grip

The sliding function of the rein and the fact that it is attached in two places (down and behind) opposite to the direction where the horse wants to move its head (up and out) makes its action many times stronger than that of a simple rein. When working with a simple rein, the horse can raise his head, while the length of the rein from hand to mouth remains the same. To overcome the horse's resistance, the rider must pull his head, lowering his hands down (see photo on the right). Without the necessary skills, he will not succeed. Thus, the cotter is an instrument of power, not cooperation and trust. He can easily make a distrustful horse with back pain, racing with its neck and head raised, obedient...

But what do sliding reins actually do? Are they good and safe?

Head positions possible with a certain length of reins.

An active cord pulls the bit down and inward, in a direction between the girth attachment and the rider's hands. It becomes a trap for the horse. There is room to move inside the restriction, but not in the desired direction - forward-down-out, which may cause the horse to twist his neck backwards (green position). She may also squeeze her neck and raise her head (red position) in an attempt to relieve the iron.

In order for the horse to relax the jaw and poll and stretch the neck forward-down-out as we would like, the rider needs to increase the length of the sliding reins, but dope riders usually do not do this, preferring to pull towards themselves and shorten the frame. Problems also arise from the insensitive hands of riders, who are reluctant to soften and give and rarely do so on time. It is difficult to give away a sliding rein while maintaining contact with the mouth through a regular rein. At best, the horse is pulled in with the dowel when he sticks his nose out and dropped when he softens his jaw. But you need to strive to naturally relax the horse, and not fight it!

A horse caught in a rope.

It is also not advisable to use a dowel as a means of safety, since ideally it is necessary to be able to change the length of the horse's neck and encourage him to periodically stretch forward and down and out throughout the training. A loose dowel that comes into play when the horse sticks his nose out and acts on him as he pulls forward, down, and out. In such a situation, the rider should change the length of the bridle every time he allows the horse to lower his head, shorten it, asking him to lift his head. Otherwise the long dowel wouldn't do any work!

Initiation of deflection

You will not be able to lower the head of the stargazer horse by pulling the reins down - he will resist. But she will also begin to struggle with the downward pressure of the sheet. A regular rein is not used to lower a horse's head. It is needed to relax its jaw and tongue so that the horse itself pulls its neck forward.

The spinal column of a horse, arched due to a reflex awakened by the action of a sliding rein.

A tightened dowel has an impact on abdominal muscles horses have the same effect as with rollkur - they contract, the nuchal ligament is tense, the topline is shortened. The bottom of the S-curve is pushed forward and you end up with a horse with a sagging back. At the same time, increased pressure on the tongue provokes tightness in the jaw and poll, which causes the same tension in the topline as when working with the head raised. Whether the horse lifts its head on its own or fights against the dowel, the effect will be the same, since it depends on the same reflex.

"Rubber bands"

The horse's neck is broken at the third vertebra.

They have a mechanical effect and cannot be adjusted directly while driving. The elastic bands are attached to the girth and go through the bit rings up to the back of the head. This device does not go to the rider’s hands.

The elastic bands are elastic and therefore can invite the horse to contact. Their main disadvantage is that they are not adjustable by the rider - they cannot be softened and released to reward the horse or allow him to fully stretch. Rubber bands don't teach a horse anything other than lowering its head. Their use eliminates the need for the rider to hold and manipulate the rope. But the fact that rubber bands have a mechanical effect and do not help the rider “talk” to the horse speaks against them.

The elastic bands are too short.

The bands stretch and lengthen so that the horse can stretch forward, down, and out, as long as they are not too short. However, if you adjust them loosely enough, they will not prevent a stubborn horse from shortening his neck and raising it. In defense of the rubber bands, all I can say is that the horse can use them to calm the bit in the mouth if the rider has restless hands. Heavy, steady pressure from the horse feels better than being jerked from slack to tight and back again. The horse can lower his head and fix the bit in his mouth using the elasticity of the rubber bands.

Side reins (junctions)

Decouplings with rubber rings-shock absorbers.

At the Spanish Riding School, flyovers are traditionally used when working on the line and reins. My opinion is that instead of longing the horse at the junctions, causing him to fight them or go behind the vertical, hide from the bit or learn to hang on it so that it stops chattering in his teeth, it is better to spend time working on the reins or just in your hands. Much more can be done by putting only a bridle on the horse and working it in your hands on a line located a meter away from the wall of the arena, bending and working on stretching as you walk. Bending and shoulder-in at the walk are often much more beneficial than trotting at the turns.

Reversals only force the horse to turn his head inward.

Some riders claim that they can only get their horse to straighten by working on the line at the junctions. They shorten the inside turnout to create a curve that matches the circle's path, and then they lengthen the horse. But the decoys cannot sense the straightness/curvature of the horse, cannot move on either side of the horse with the horse's legs, or soften to allow him to stretch. They can only fix the head. I have seen many horses after such work: they are twisted - overbent inside, with their shoulders dropped outward and their hips moving on the inside track closer to the center than in front.

Don't fix the horse's head! Shoulder in with your hands on the volte, then on the reins, and work on rhythm, relaxation, contact and schwung (impulse) on horseback before you start working on straightness. Straightness cannot be achieved by adjusting the straps, any more than by not putting the horse in occasion, forcefully lowering her head.

Reining does not improve the horse's stretching skills, but rather trains him to maintain a certain position of the neck and jaw and to drop the withers down.

They fix the distance between the mouth and a point on the girth or edge. The horse can counter this in a number of ways - by shortening its neck, twisting, etc. To get your horse to "get into the bit" using releases, you need to be an expert in line work - moving the horse forward and releasing pressure frequently so as not to provoke cramps caused by the resistance. The horse should listen to you perfectly. So what is the point of using interchanges then? If the horse is well trained and you know how to control it correctly, then why not work it on the reins or under the saddle?

The horse in the photo is well trained. The junctions on it seem too short. As she walks, she is bent and twisted. She arches her neck during the piaffe, but does not engage her hindquarters enough, her hind legs rise higher than her front legs, and the reins are long enough (although I would like to see a longer neck). Yes, releases can be useful during very short reprises when performing exercises that require a high degree of collection. But they can teach the horse to avoid contact by hiding behind the reins.

Rubber rings dangle up and down.

Using breakers to shorten a horse is counterproductive - the horse will soon learn to tense up against the force of the non-yielding ropes attached to the bit.

Side reins also block the movement of the head and neck at walk and canter, leaving trot as the only gait at which they can be used. During the trot, the rubber rings on the reins begin to swing up and down, and they weigh much more than the reins. The only thing that helps a horse avoid this rather unpleasant influence on the rein is to lean hard against it.

Reinforcements block the stretch and encourage the horse to pull his head toward his chest.

Problems also arise if the horse stumbles, loses balance, or plays along on the line: the fixed leather collar hits the horse in the mouth with the same force with which he jerks his head. This traumatizes the horse's mouth, making it less sensitive. The horse gradually becomes tight.

Some people believe that working the breakers can teach the horse "correct contact." If they mean that the rider must be able to hold the rein at a fixed length for a long time and that the horse must constantly adjust to it, then decoys can help. But if "correct contact" means to you that the horse is pulling on the bit, that the rider can adjust the length of the bit to influence the horse's haunches and back to reward him, to allow him to stretch, to lift and lower his head while maintaining equal pressure occasion, then the solutions here can teach the horse to ignore the rider’s hands and not “mess around” with them.

Reinforcements cannot properly position the horse's poll. You can make one turn shorter than the other, but when working on the long line, you will not be able to control the condition of the horse - whether it is bent at the shoulders, in the middle of the neck or in the correct position.

The main problem with interchanges is the lack of control. You can't control their length when you're at the opposite end of the line, nor can you control the horse's shoulder or bend. You can't instantly soften or shorten them. If you can't attach them to the noseband, can't find the lightest rubber rings, can't loosen the decouplers enough, and can't ride cleanly, then why do you need them?

Balancing rein (Todeman reins)

Thodeman reins are semi-sliding reins that an unskilled rider can use without having to carry extra straps. They are attached to the girth, pass through the bit rings and are attached to the sides of the reins.

Some riders praise this device, considering their action to be gentle on the horse. The reins only work until the horse puts his head in the correct position, and then is automatically released.

Proponents of Thodeman reins do not understand that they cannot force a horse's head into the correct position by simply holding it in place with force. Correct position The head is achieved by activating the rear, which leads to a lift in the back and front and a natural rounding of the neck!

Metal rings for fastening.

One can, of course, ask why then there is a reason at all!? Why don't riders ride without reins if it's so damn easy? Because first “the back of the head should relax, and the position of the head under the influence of the bit on the jaw should approach the vertical.” This is what the work of the hands comes down to if the horse is on the bit. The hands ask: “Please relax your jaw, give in the back of your head, stretch your neck, and I will give you the reins if you do.”

The horse's head must be free, and we must independently control it, reacting in time to everything that happens to it. We must feel the horse's mouth and relax it if it is clenched. And what will help us here is not the reins of a fixed length, which pull the horse’s head down every time, but training.

Thodeman's reins add weight to the usual reins. Not only do they force the horse's head into position and create tension in his neck, but they also add discomfort to his mouth by constantly putting pressure on the bit as he moves.

Elastic rein adapters

These are reins with a ring at the end and an elastic section - an insert in the middle, allowing them to stretch a little. Behind the insert there is a leather section of the rein, so stretching is limited (2-3 cm).

Such reins are used by riders who cannot create and maintain elastic, live contact based on the horse's feel and softening, whose hands are not independent of the horse's movements and of their own seat.

Unfortunately, they won't help in the long run.

If you use these inserts, they will provide elastic contact for you, and you will not correct and progress. Your hands will be restless - you will constantly pull on the reins as the elastic inserts will automatically correct you. This way you will not learn to feel the soft chewing of a horse on the bit.

Chambon and Gog

The gog is similar in appearance to the chambon, but additionally passes through the snaffle rings to the main belt.

Gog and Chambon are much more complex than a cord and work through a system of blocks. They are designed to work on the line and encourage the horse to reach a forward and down position, but many people use these devices for hand work and riding. I don’t understand why riders prefer to mask their inability with the action of “ropes”.

Chambon in action.

Chambon works satisfactorily when used for its intended purpose - on cord. This is the only device that allows the horse to fully stretch forward and down.

Chambon is very simple. You will need a main strap (blue) to attach it to (if you don't have one, use a saddle and girth). The short strap (green) attaches to the bridle's occipital strap. At each end of the strap there is a ring (yellow) through which the cord (red) passes from the attachment to the bit.

Chambon parts.

The chambon starts working as soon as the horse raises its head and sticks out its nose - its cords are stretched. The distance to the raised head (occiput) becomes longer than in a relaxed state, and the exposed nose also uses its part of the cord. The cord puts pressure on the mouth and also pushes downwards on the top strap. Any attempt to move your head in the right direction is instantly rewarded. If the nose goes back vertically, and especially if the back of the head drops, the pressure is relieved. When fully stretched forward and down, the distance from the girth to the back of the head and to the mouth becomes shorter than with the head raised. The device sags.

Horses usually don't even fight with this device because its effect is quite mild.

Additional equipment for working with chambon on a line

Chambon applies pressure to the back of the head and mouth.

If you absolutely must use something to stretch your horse, choose a chambon - it's cheaper and softer than a Pessoa system or an Abbott-Davies rein. The money you spend will not help your horse. Use the cheapest and most gentle system, and spend the money on massage for your horse and cord lessons.

Chambon removes the pressure as the horse stretches.

Put a chambon on the horse, and attach an elastic band to the horse's back on both sides, adjusting it just above the hocks. I guarantee that the horse will feel the same pressure from behind as with the Pessoa system, but the chambon will allow him to stretch from the front to the front and down!

Remember that the horse can only stretch if he starts moving forward from his hindquarters, so teach him this slowly.

Pessoa system

The horse pulls its mouth while moving its own hind legs.

The Pessoa system is used for working on cord. It is supposed to force the horse to stretch and engage his hindquarters, encouraging him to place his hind legs deeper under his body, so it will be good for the back. I saw the system in action several times, and while it kept the horse's head down, the most striking effect was that he managed to hit the horse's mouth with the bit with each movement of the hind legs.

The system has nodes that connect the rear and front of the horse through the edge. My guess is that the rope around the rear of the horse should encourage him to place his hind legs deeper under his body, while also limiting the height of his head. But what is more sensitive is the skin on hind legs or mouth!? The horse will lower his head down, but will not stretch behind the bit, since the bit hits him on the toothless edge and teeth with every step...

I have not seen horses really engage their hindquarters in this “system” - they continue to move on the forehand and hide behind the reins. The system can be adjusted lower (for more stretch) or higher (for collection), but it still won't be very effective.

Hock Hobbles (system that interacts with the hock joints)

When moving, the horse receives blows to the mouth.

Some of these devices are so ignorant of the fact that the horse has a sensitive mouth that I'm horrified. What else can be achieved using a device that connects the mouth to the hocks?

Abbott-Davis balancing rein

The Abbott-Davis balance rein connects the bit to the horse's tail. It is essentially a dead martingale attached to a tail stretched between the horse's buttocks. Perhaps someone thinks that the horse's hind end will give out if you pull its tail in this way? To bring the hindquarters in and step deeper under the body with the hind legs, the horse must move! In this case, the greatest impact will again be on the mouth. Don't forget about the weight of the belts. In addition, this device prevents the horse from stretching his neck forward and down, encouraging him only to stick his nose between his front legs.

"Cowboy Dressage" Dead Martingale

Eitan Beth Halachmy called his riding "Cowboy Dressage". He was taught “discipline and dressage” by a Hungarian cavalry officer. Subsequently, Eitan became interested in the riding style of American cowboys and decided to combine the knowledge of both systems. The device he created involves connecting a bit to the horse's tail so that the rope runs along the horse's side. This should make the horse bend and help get him to obey...

Martingales and dead maringales

There are several types of martingales that limit the height to which a horse raises its head. The simplest ones are attached to a bit and a girth or strap around the shoulders. Some are attached to snaffle rings or to the noseband of the noseband, some are attached to the reins with rings.

Sliding (hunting) martingale often used by show jumpers. It is really very useful on jumps, especially with horses that tend to shy away from the reins when approaching the fence.

Hot or stubborn horses tend to lift their heads sharply, and this is not the same as the "front of the rein" position in dressage. It looks like “nose to the sky and away we go.” The advantage of the sliding martingale is that it is designed in such a way that it only starts working when it is needed. When the rein rises above a certain level (the horse lifts his head), the rings hold it and bring the horse's head back down. The reins press downwards, not backwards. When the horse carries his head in a more favorable position, the martinagale straps hang freely. The martingale also serves to prevent the reins from slipping down and prevents the horse from stepping into it if the rider suddenly disappears from its back.

Irish martingaleperforms the same functions regarding rein support. You pass the reins through the rings and the strap rests on the horse's neck. If the horse raises its head, the strap presses against the neck and provides resistance. When the horse behaves well, he doesn't work.

One problem with martingales, however, is that most are not long enough or too open to allow fine rein work. This is convenient for jumping, but disastrous in dressage. The Irish Martingale does not allow much lateral movement of the reins and can sometimes hold the reins closer than necessary in a neutral position. Therefore, martingales are not suitable for basic arena work.

There are many variations of dead martingales known. These are belts of a certain length that go from the head to the chest. One of them - harbridge.

It attaches to the noseband of the noseband like any dead martingale. It is not so bad, but it is not elastic, so when it starts to function, it can work extremely abruptly, with a jerk.

For some horses prone to flashing, the use of such martingales can be life-threatening. The martingale gives the horse enough room to raise its neck, and with a sharp jerk the horse may become frightened, stand on the candle and roll over.

With the help of an additional adapter, the dead martingale can be attached to the bit rings. So he becomes much stricter and tougher. In addition, with this fastening, the rings of the bit are pulled down and brought closer together, which creates a pincer effect: the bit is additionally broken at the joint and rests against the sky. This can cause the horse to flash or skid.

Alliance Back Lift (Comprehensive Back Lift System)

I haven't tested this device yet, but it seems to work correctly on the front - trying to lift the base of the neck. The system is not connected to the mouth and does not seem to cause the horse to twist his neck and go beyond the vertical. This device CAN be used to force the horse to lower his head, but does not "ask" him to stretch.

Teresa Sandin; translation