What are carving skis? Classifier of alpine skis: carving, universal, freeride. Ski boot parameters

Every year more and more people are attracted to it. Unlike a lazy holiday, it gives you the opportunity to get a dose of extreme sports in clean mountain air and magnificent views. And modern equipment for skiers gives impetus to the development of new skiing styles. One of the most common skiing methods is carving.

What is this?

Carving is a style that is characterized by the absence of lateral slipping of the skis during a turn. This style is due to the special shape of the ski with a wide tip, wide tail and narrow waist, as well as the advent of new materials that are resistant to the forces that twist the ski along its axis under load. Also, the emergence of this style was facilitated by an increase in the quality of slope preparation at resorts: the presence of perfectly smooth “corduroy” after processing the snow with special machines has become a standard.

The word carving itself means “to cut.” This name arose because the skis, tilted in a turn, seem to cut the slope with their edges, leaving smooth, deep furrows, in contrast to regular skiing, when the skis in a turn slide slightly across the movement, reducing speed and leaving wider and not so deep marks.

To perform such maneuvers, you will need to use the “fitted” ski models that we mentioned above. Such a technique was previously only possible at high speeds, at which only professional athletes. And with the advent of new fitted skis, it has become available to ordinary amateurs of any age. It's simple: a ski placed on the edge, pressed by the weight of the skier in its middle, bends, digging its toe and heel into dense, even snow, and takes the shape of an arc. This arc itself guides the skier in the turn, without requiring any additional movements from him.

The degree of fit of the ski affects the optimal turning radius of the skier: the more fitted the ski, the smaller the turn radius. All modern ski models indicate all the characteristics: width of the tip, waist, heel and optimal turning radius.

Style Features

In practice, this style can be used to perform both fast and short turns, and long. In the case of the first type, it is better to use small skis of reduced size. Their turning radius is usually 11-16 meters, due to which they will be more maneuverable, although at high speed the stability will be worse. In the case of large arcs, it is better to use more long skis with increased rigidity and a turning radius of 17-20 m.

To use this type of riding, you will need:

• modern skis. Many models are designed specifically for carving. On such skis the waist width does not exceed 68 mm. There is a noticeable big difference in width between the front, middle and back products. This design ensures ease of movement on dense packed snow.
• suitable technique. Some people find it easier to manage classical methods, others - according to modern ones.
• appropriate slope for carving. It must be properly prepared and maintained: usually it is a fairly gentle slope, ideally smoothed with a snow groomer (snow compactor).

Training in special areas is best suited for carving. As we have already mentioned, their peculiarity is a slight slope and the absence of sharp declines. It is best to study in the morning, because snowcats roll away snow at night, and it is in the morning that the snow surface is in ideal condition. There are special courses for learning carving that are offered by instructors at resorts.

Subtleties of the process

The beauty of carving is that it is easy to learn. Unlike the traditional technique, where the skier has to unload the skis by bending the knees and making a rotational impulse when entering the turn, carving does not require this. You just need to put the ski on the edge (tilt it), it will bend and itself will lead you in an arc. This is possible at the slowest speed, so fear does not interfere with learning.

If the old teaching method used a stop and a plow, drawing on many years of experience, then the modern interpretation has developed its own methods. They renounce the classical method and focus on using simpler and more intuitive movements.

Place your skis on the edges, and they will go in an arc on their own, digging into the snow, and your only task is to maintain balance, tilting your body into the turn. Since the skis don't slip, the speed will build up quite quickly and you'll have to lean more into the turn. Skis are best driven in wide stance so that one leg does not interfere with the other. As with the classic technique, the skier's weight is more concentrated on the outside ski.

At the same time, if the speed increases, the skis will dig into the snow stronger and more reliably, because the force of pressure on the ski will increase. The skis will cut through the snow, leaving narrow and deep edge marks. The inside leg in a turn will be bent noticeably more than the outside leg because the skier is almost resting his hips on the snow.

Keep in mind that high-speed carving can be dangerous if there are a lot of people around. The skier changes direction by more than 90 degrees and ends turns moving at high speed almost across the slope, so its trajectory can be difficult to predict. This is another argument in favor of skiing in the morning, when there are still few people on the slopes.

Don't forget about a helmet and proper adjustment of the bindings, which will save your legs from injury by unfastening your skis in the event of a fall.

Good luck in mastering carving!

Four main parameters influencing the choice alpine skiing:

1. Skier's height.


2. Skier weight.


3. Skier's skiing style.


4. Skier's level of training.

What types of alpine skiing are there?

As you might expect, alpine skiing is divided into several categories. The determining factor in this case is the level of technical and physical training skier

There are 4 categories of alpine skiing:

1. Skis for beginner skiers


2. Skis for advanced skiers


3. Skis for expert level skiers


4. Skis for athletes

Alpine skiing for advanced skiers and experts are located on the same level, both in terms of price and technical specifications.

Respectively, alpine skiing for athletes belong to the upper price category. They are designed for good technique, as well as good physical fitness of the skier. These skis are the stiffest and most elastic.

Certainly, specialized models of alpine skis also exist. For example, such models include sports junior skis, women's skis and children's skis. Alpine skis are also divided into different categories according to their purpose: there are skis designed for lovers of various levels:

• all-mountain skis


• carving skis


• off-piste skis


• specialized sports skis

To ensure that the reader does not have any misunderstandings that lead to questions, we will tell him about the types of skis listed above.

Carving skis

These are modern alpine skis that are designed for skiing on preparatory slopes. ski resorts. These skis provide the ability to ski in short or wide deep arcs. The usual width of the middle part (waist) of a carving ski is on average 63-68 mm. Carving skis have a big contrast between the width of the nose of the ski, its waist and the width of the rear. The radius of the side cut of a carving ski is from 10 to 17 m. Thanks to this geometry, a carving ski easily turns and is able to pass the entire slope without sliding with the entire plane of the ski, “on the edges.” When carving skiing, the skier loads both skis evenly, which cannot be said, for example, about the classical technique - with the load only on the leg outer to the turn. Carving skis are not suitable for skiing in deep snow, but as for soft or hard (ice) groomed slopes, such skiing is perfect for these skis. As for buying carving skis, you should choose them 10-20 cm shorter than the skier’s height. If skis are purchased for skiing in the mountains and require stability at high speed, it is possible to take skis 5-15 cm shorter than the height of the skier.

Fan carving, or more precisely, radical carving, is a subtype of the carving skis described above. These skis have a very large contrast in the width of the tip and the width of the waist of the ski. When skiing on such skis, the skier almost lies down on the slope during a turn, and often even touches the slope with his hand. And in the turn the skier puts more load inner leg to the turn.

Freeride

These are alpine skis that are designed for off-piste skiing in the mountains. These skis are resistant to different snow conditions on the slope and passable in loose snow. They have a wider waist than carving skis: from 80 mm or more. The radius of the side cut of the ski is approximately from 17 to 30 m. As for the purchase of freeride skis, they are chosen with a length of plus or minus 5 cm to the height. You need to be careful, as freeride skiing requires no less than an expert level of skiing. In addition to the fact that freeride skis are the widest, they are also quite versatile and are suitable for skiing on prepared slopes. The widest freeride skis have a waist of 90-110 mm, and they are designed for skiing on virgin snow, deep snow. Such skis (Powder) are chosen as long as the skier’s height or up to 10 cm longer.

Universal alpine skis (All-Mountain, Allround)

A type of ski that provides the opportunity for carving skiing both on prepared slopes and off-piste skiing (on virgin soil, hillocks, blowouts). Such skis usually have a waist within 80 mm (from 68 to 80 mm). Length all-mountain skis should be the height of the skier or 10 cm shorter.

Sports alpine skiing (Racing)

These skis are also called Racing skis. They are characterized by maximum rigidity in order to ensure controllability at high speeds and under heavy loads. Athletes use racing skis on steep sports slopes. In turn, sports skis are divided into several more subtypes:

• slalom skis


• giant slalom skis


• ski cross skis


• freestyle skis

Sports slalom skis- These are elastic skis with a side cutout with a radius of approximately 7-15 mm. They have a great contrast in the width of the toe and the width of the waist. The length of slalom skis is chosen in the same way as carving skis: 10-15 cm shorter than the skier’s height.

Sports skis for giant slalom and ski cross(their descriptions can be combined) – this hard skis, the side cut of which is 17-21 m. The length of these skis should be the height of the skier or up to 10 cm shorter.

Freestyle skis– these are skis that are designed for acrobatic exercises in specially prepared ski parks. The skis are designed for ski jumping, acrobatics in the pipe and specially prepared hillocks (mogul track). Twin-tip freestyle skis feature high-curved, rounded tails that allow for a rear-facing landing after a jump. Typically, freestyle skis are universal for amateur skiing on any slope.

How does the characteristics of skis affect its behavior under a skier?

Wide ski - narrow ski

A narrower ski makes it easier to ski on hard and icy slopes. It is lighter and goes better on bumpy, uneven trails. More agile and “live”, since less effort is needed to turn the edge.

On deep snow and virgin soil, a wider ski goes better. It does not “sink”, is more directionally stable and more stable.

As for the width of the ski tip, the wider the tip, the easier the skier can make a turn. Alpine skis with a wide tip are used mainly for carving.

A ski with a wide waist is best for off-piste skiing. The wider the waist, the better the control of the ski on different snow surfaces and the easier the ski floats in deep snow.

A ski with a narrower waist turns easier.

Alpine skis with a wide tail are used for carving. The wider the heel, the deeper the arc at the end of the turn.

The side cut of the ski is made larger on slalom and carving skis. The radius of the arcs that a skier can ride is smaller depending on the depth of the sidecut. For example, on short slopes near St. Petersburg, a large cutout allows you to make more arcs.

A shallow cut with a large radius is made on freeride skis.

For off-piste skiing, a ski with a high toe is better suited.

Skis with a flat toe are designed for slalom on a sports track, for carving on prepared slopes.

Soft ski - hard ski

For beginner skiers, soft skis are better suited, as they begin to flex (“work”) at lower speeds and better absorb large uneven terrain. Soft skis go better on powdery snow and virgin soil. Ski models for beginners and for freeride on virgin soil are just soft skis.

On hard and icy slopes, hard skis hold better – they go “like on rails.” They lead the arc more clearly. They are more difficult to get into a turn, but at the end of the turn they give all their energy. Hard skis are designed for sports and carving on prepared slopes. They require a lot of both technical and physical training of the skier.

Long ski - short ski

Longer skis are more stable at speed, more stable and easier to ride on virgin soil. They are suitable for long and wide trails, for “big mountains”.

Shorter skis turn easier on the slope. They are more nimble, easier to walk on icy, hard slopes, along uneven and bumpy roads. These skis are suitable for skiing on short groomed slopes.

The design of modern skis.

There are 3 types of alpine ski design, namely:

"Sandwich"

A ski, like a sandwich, contains several layers of materials, each of which “works.” The bottom and top layers usually provide rigidity, since these layers are made of rigid materials.

The upper, rigid layer acts as a structural “bearing layer”. The remaining layers are attached to it from below.

"Box" (Monocoque).

A modern type of construction, which contrasts with two traditional ones: “sandwich” and “cap”.

In this design, the middle of the ski is wrapped in synthetic materials or metal braided on all sides. This ensures greater torsional rigidity of the ski, meaning the ski does not twist under load. The middle of the ski is made of wood or synthetic materials.

Such a ski is more stable in turns, less sensitive to uneven terrain and moves smoothly in an arc.

In the characteristics of a ski, vibration damping (vibration dampening) that occurs in the ski occupies a rather important place. Micro-irregularities occur on any slope. These are small bumps, snowcat tracks or hard lumps of snow. During skiing, the ski experiences micro-impacts, as a result of which it begins to vibrate finely. At this moment, at the moment of vibration, the toe and heel are not adjacent to the slope. Accordingly, contact is lost, and the controllability and reliability of the ski behavior decreases. What determines the quality of ski vibration damping? – Its behavior at medium and high speeds. The better vibration is absorbed, the more accurately the ski follows an arc, the better it holds on a hard icy slope and the more stable it behaves at high speeds. Absolutely all sports and expert skis pay attention to the issue of vibration damping. Where will the greatest vibrations be present? – More like cheap skis for beginners.

Installation of fasteners.

Modern alpine skis, some models come already with bindings. For other models, the ski has a platform that allows you to install only certain types of models. If the ski does not have this special platform, any fastenings for installation with screws will be suitable for installation. It is advisable to install fasteners in service centers or special workshops at stores. In these places there are special templates for installing ski bindings from various manufacturers.

Firms that are the main producers of mining lyzh.

• Atomic;
• Dynastar;
• Dynamic;
• Elan;
• Extreme;
• Fischer;
• Head;
• Kneissl;
• Nordica;
• Rossignol;
• Salomon;
• Stokli;
• Volkl.

Before you look at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.

How to choose alpine skis for the intended purpose

Carving or piste skis (Carving)

These skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, allow you to easily take sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not all sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with the help of which turns are made).

Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and allow for poor technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.

What to buy

Skis for professional racing (Racing)

These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). The models differ greatly in geometry and features, are designed for athletes and cost a lot.

What to buy

All-mountain skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)

These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin soil, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.

What to buy

Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)

These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin soil, and also allows you to jump off cliffs without compromising your health.

What to buy

Park skis, freestyle (Park & ​​Pipe, Freestyle)

These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, and for passing mogul tracks.

Often park skis are Twin-tip models with equally curved tip and tail. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a jump with both his back and face.

What to buy

Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, you need to take into account several parameters: length, rigidity and radius of the side cutout.

We will not consider skis for professional racing, since they are selected in accordance with a specific sports discipline, and the pros do not need recommendations. It’s better to focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced ones.

Alpine ski parameters

Length

The length of alpine skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.

• Carving, freestyle. To select the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
• Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
• Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, suitable length will be from –5 to +5 cm to your height.

Rigidity

Stiff skis allow you to develop high speeds without losing stability, including during turns. However, to ski hard skis, you need good technique.

Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional rigidity than all-mountain skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. If there is a lack of rigidity, you will not be able to make a clear turn: the skis will slip sideways.

The more weight, the stiffer the skis are needed to support it.

For beginners and amateurs, it will be more convenient to ride soft skis, such as all-mountain skis. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the harder the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.

As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated in the product card or on the ski tag.

Side cut radius

The radius of the sidecut (Sidecut) depends on the geometry of the ski. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will travel.

Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the skiing style. Slalom courses have a short radius of 9–12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with ratings of 17–25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.

There are also medium-radius skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis have better control when turning and, unlike long-radius skis, allow you to ski on rather tight, crowded slopes.

The radius of all-purpose skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.

Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.

Alpine ski designs

Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.

The core of such skis, as a rule, consists of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with a mesh of carbon or fiberglass.

The core is covered on the sides with plastic walls, on top with a decorative strip, and on the bottom with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and the shock absorption increases.

Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side or decorative strips, and the core is covered by one monolithic structure that extends to the edges.

Cap provides less weight and greater torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.

Monocoque (monocoque)

This is a development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which the sliding surface is glued. A core made of wood or lightweight synthetic materials is installed inside the body.

Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures stability when turning and less sensitivity to uneven terrain.

In addition to these three designs, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made using one technology, and the ends - using another.

Alpine ski materials

Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, simple foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.

Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.

In cheaper skis you can find foam cores. For example, the Cap structure is filled with lightweight synthetic foam. Foam does not provide as much stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.

The next layer is a core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski largely depends on it. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.

Combined materials are also used in the production of sliding surfaces. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite helps reduce electrostatic charge, which causes small ice crystals and dirt to stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene provides better preservation of the ointment on the surface.

How to choose ski bindings

The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.

1. Fastening standard. There are several fastening standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:

• Alpine Mounts. Fits ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most piste boots.
• Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear parts are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example, uphill. Most of these bindings are ISO 9523 (Touring) compatible.
• WTR (Walk to Ride). Developed by Salomon. Mounts for boots with a higher WTR sole, equipped with a tread for comfortable walking.
• MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.

2. Elasticity of fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not come loose, but will return the boot to its place.

Carving ski bindings have little elasticity. It is enough to move the boot 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.

Freeride bindings are more flexible because they experience more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. In order for the freeride binding to come off, the boot must move to the side by 2.5–3 cm.

3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. It looks like two wires on the sides of the fasteners.

The waist (the narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the binding on your ski.

If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, select a ski mount only after choosing the skis themselves.

4. Features of fastening to the ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.

• With screws. This is the most reliable installation method. Cons: You won't be able to use multiple skis with one binding. In addition, the screws slightly disturb the structure of the skis, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
• On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a platform for bindings. In this case, it is better to buy fastenings from the same manufacturer: the holes in the platform will coincide with the fastenings and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
• On a platform without holes. If a platform without holes is attached to the ski, any fastenings will fit to it, since you will make the holes yourself.
• On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings can easily be changed to fit the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same skis.

How to choose poles

1. Material. Poles can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an alloy indication. The higher the number, the more rigid and durable the alloy.

Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum ones, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a pole made of composite materials with a sharp ski edge, it will quickly break under load.

2. Shape. Poles for normal skating are straight. For high-speed descents, such as giant slalom, they are curved. This shape allows athletes to move the pole rings behind their backs during descent, increasing aerodynamics.

3. Ring size and shape. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed to prevent the stick from going deep into the snow. Freeride models have large guides to ensure the pole has a good grip on soft, fluffy snow. The piste poles are equipped with small rings that will not interfere or cling to your boots while riding.

Some manufacturers make poles with replaceable rings for different conditions skating.

4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.

To find the ideal length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle is formed between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is suitable for you. Some experts advise adding 5–7 cm to this length to take into account the stick’s immersion in the snow.

Before choosing your poles, put on your ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.

As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick to the hand), it is not recommended to wear it. When you fall, the ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you're unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose poles without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.

What to buy

Ski boot parameters

To begin with, we will tell you what characteristics it has. ski boots, and then we’ll look at how to choose boots depending on your riding style.

Rigidity

This characteristic indicates how much effort it takes to change the angle of the boot shaft. The stiffer the boot, the better the forces of your muscles are transferred to the skis.

Soft boots absorb stress due to the bending of the shaft. As a result, ski control decreases.

The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to control your skis.

However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy boots that are too hard.

Sole type

ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.

Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel with ups and downs. These boots have a higher rubberized sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable overlays that allow them to be used with conventional bindings.

WTR (Walk to Ride)- This is a standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.

Pad width

Last width is the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the shoe, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.

There are boots with adjustable last width. They indicate a range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.

Remember: in too wide shoes you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control your skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy shoes that are too spacious.

Thermoforming

This is the boot's ability to mold to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.

Some boots can only be molded problem areas, in others the entire surface of the boot is molded.

If your boots are marked Auto Fit, they are thermoformed as they are worn by the heat of your feet. A few days of riding is enough for boots with auto-forming to adapt to your characteristics.

Before buying boots, walk around the store in them for 10 minutes. This way you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, whether they need thermoforming or whether you should try on others.

Custom Fit shoes are designed to be hot molded using a special hairdryer. Hot molding is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits, but is a little tight in some place.

First, the boot is heated with a hairdryer for about 10–15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.

Insulation

Ski boots are insulated using down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.

Unlike natural materials, synthetic ones have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweat-soaked socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: cotton and wool are better left for other purposes.

How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose

These boots are suitable for you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and only for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and go beyond the boundaries of the track to ride on untouched snow.

Boots for carving come in different stiffnesses. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.

When choosing boots, do not look for softness and comfort: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis handle poorly, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.

The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to comfortably climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.

The boot top usually has a slope of 13 degrees. There are four clips and a strap that provides additional support.

Please note whether there is an internal or outside boot canting adjustment unit.

This knot allows you to adjust the boot to the anatomical features of your feet. For example, if you have X-shaped or O-shaped legs, adjusting the canting will allow you to change the angle of the boot so that your foot sits straight on the ski.

This is an option for more advanced skiers who plan to improve their skiing technique. Sports boots have maximum rigidity and absolutely smooth soles: walking in them is uncomfortable, so they are not suitable for a relaxing holiday. These are boots for those whose priority is skating, training or competitions.
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These boots are designed for off-piste riding only. They are equipped with three clips, with the last one upside down: this design prevents the clip from unfastening while riding in deep snow. Freeride boots also have a wider strap.

Freeride boots switch between walking and riding modes. If you have to go uphill, you can loosen the stiffness of the boot, and when the need arises, switch the boots back to downhill mode, providing the necessary stiffness for control over the skis.

Also, freeride boots are very light in weight, well insulated and do not allow moisture to pass through.

What to buy

That's all. If you have any advice on choosing alpine skis and equipment for them, write comments. And good luck on the slopes!

What is the turning radius of alpine skis. Carving skis.

In this video we will talk about such an important characteristic of alpine skiing as radius. It is also called turning radius, arc, etc. The essence is the same. Today there are many models of alpine skis on the market with different characteristics, different purposes, for people with different levels of training. Many people, when selecting alpine skis, stipulate that the skis must be carving. Here we must immediately make one very important note. 99.9% of all alpine skis today are carving. What is carving?

Carving(from English to carve - cut, trim) - a technique of skiing or snowboarding, which consists of performing successive carved turns by deflecting the knees in the direction of the turn. Carving involves uniform loading of both legs of the skier, in contrast to the classical technique, in which the load falls on the leg outer to the turn. Ideal carving does not involve sideways slipping of the skis.

The carving technique appeared in the late 90s – early 2000s and almost completely replaced the classical technique. Since it is much easier to learn from scratch. This coincided with the emergence of new materials and technologies that made it possible to make skis wide enough and at the same time rigid in torsion (in the torsion bar). The appearance of such ski models on the market has almost completely replaced them from store windows. classic skis, which did not have (or practically did not have) a side cutout.

The carving skiing technique places certain demands on the equipment, namely, the skis must have a difference in the width of the tip, waist and heel. This difference determines the presence of a side “cutout” on the ski. Any cutout can be described by a circle, and the circle, in turn, is described by a radius. And since almost all (with the exception of rare special models) skis that are now produced by the ski industry have differences in the width of the tip, waist and heel, it is logical to say that all of these skis belong to carving skis. They will differ in the size of this very radius. Conventionally, a radius of 10-14 m is considered short, 14-18 - medium, and more than 18 - large. We emphasize – CONDITIONALLY!

And the last one is very important point, relative to the radius. The number indicating the radius of the ski does not mean that the ski will turn exactly along this radius (no more, no less). This should not be confused with the “minimum turning radius” in the vehicle’s performance characteristics. On skis with a radius of 18 m, you can lay an arc of 15 m and 20 m, and even with equipment 14 m, etc. The radius of alpine skis is only a geometric indicator of a particular model, which shows how comfortable it will be to ski on arcs of small, medium or large radius.