Automatic adjustment of pH in the solution. pH adjustment. Main modes of application

Composition: 50% mineral acid.

Packaging: Canisters 30l (39kg), 20l (26kg).

Application:

The drug is used to lower pH levels in swimming pools. Direct dosing is used from the supplied container using a dosing pump. The amount of the drug depends on the water temperature, weather conditions and intensity of use of the pool. Never pre-dilute!

When adjusting the Ph level manually, the amount of the drug depends on the difference in Ph values. It is recommended to divide the dosage amount into several portions and take measurements in between to avoid the pH level dropping too much. Ideally 7.2-7.4.

Precautionary measures:

Decrease in pH - "Neo-minus T" (solid)

Composition: Contains sodium bisulfate 98%.

Packaging: bucket - 5.0kg, bucket - 3.0kg, bucket - 1.5kg

Application:

The drug is used to lower Ph levels. 1 kg of the drug is enough to lower the Ph level by about 0.2 in a pool with a volume of 100 m3. When adjusting the Ph level in hard water, a larger dosage is required, and when adjusting the Ph level in soft water, a smaller dosage is required. Several portions (dissolved in water) must be added to the water at different places in the pool. Before the next portion, check the change in the Ph level in the pool.

When adjusting Ph, add the drug to the water away from metal parts.

Precautionary measures:

• CAROUS SUBSTANCE! Wear gloves and safety glasses when working!
• upon contact with acids, it releases toxic gases and causes chemical burns;
• avoid contact with skin and clothing;
• do not inhale, otherwise immediately go out into fresh air;
• In case of contact with eyes, rinse with plenty of water.

Shelf life: 2 years from the date of manufacture.

Storage conditions: Store at a temperature of 5-25oC in a dry, indoor and hermetically sealed package.

pH regulation is essential proper care for water in the pool. The pH value shows whether the water reacts alkaline or acidic and how strong it is. In addition, the pH level is an important factor affecting the effectiveness of added disinfectants.

In order to keep water in the "ideal reaction", i.e. in the pH range 7.0 - 7.4, it must be checked regularly, at least once a week, using a test strip "Quick-Test".
From the point of view of optimal water treatment, the ideal pH value lies in the range from 7.0 to 7.4, but not more than 7.6. The upper limit of effective disinfection with reagents should be considered to be pH = 7.8. In a more alkaline environment, the bactericidal effect of the reagents decreases, the turbidity and color of the water increases, and an imbalance in the acidity of the human skin occurs. In addition, calcium salts present in the water tend to precipitate, which not only complicates filtration by coking the material in the filter, but also spoils the appearance of the pool with a white coating on the walls (scale). In a more acidic environment (i.e. if the pH value is less than 7.0), oxidative processes are enhanced, which leads to corrosion of the pool plumbing systems. The water becomes aggressive and takes away calcium salts from the lining material of the pool and bowl, thereby reducing their strength characteristics. The pH level should be checked regularly. This can be done using a pool pH meter. The stability of the pH factor is influenced by conditions such as lime hardness and water temperature.

If the pH level is too high (i.e., greater than 7.4), an easy-to-use product should be added to the water. pH-minus", which is acid granules. When added pH-Minus The pH of the pool water will gradually decrease. If the pH level, on the contrary, is too low, it is necessary to add " pH-plus", and thus increase it. To regulate the pH level of the water in the pool, it is best to use convenient bags with pH-Plus And pH-Minus, which contain 500 grams of this product. On the back of the bag is a dosage chart that can be used to determine how many bags are needed for your pool size at a given pH level (measured before adding this product). This is where the complex calculations of the required dose end.

After the pool is filled with water, it is necessary to chemical treatment water.

First of all, we need a tester. Let's immediately eliminate the test strips. It’s not in vain that the manufacturer warns that with them “measuring the ph level becomes like child’s play.” Simple, like a child's game, and useful, like a child's game, since there is simply no accuracy. We will need a test kit capable of measuring pH and free chlorine content. To measure ph, “phenol red” tablets are used, and to measure chlorine, DPD1 is used. If the tester is able to additionally measure total alkalinity and combined chlorine well. And if there is a measurement of cyanuric acid, great. If not, no problem, we’ll get by. I will not repeat what is written in the instructions for the tester; there is nothing complicated in testing. Let me draw your attention to just one point. If you have already added chlorine to the pool and its concentration exceeds 10 g/m 3, then this causes DPD1 to “bleach” and it may seem that there is no chlorine. FAS-DPD is free from this drawback, but it is not sold in Russia. Therefore, carefully monitor the reaction when you throw DPD1 into the water. If color appears for a few seconds and then disappears, then the chlorine concentration in your pool is more than 10 g/m3. To determine the chlorine concentration, dilute the pool water, for example in a ratio of one to five, repeat the test, and then multiply the result by 5.

Measure ph. Ph less than 7.2 may cause eye irritation. Ph less than 6.8 can damage metal parts in the pool. Ph greater than 7.8 can cause calcium deposits. Manufacturers recommend maintaining a pH level of up to 7.4, claiming that with more high levels ph chlorine loses its disinfecting ability. This is true, but in water that does not contain a stabilizer. In the presence of a stabilizer, the situation changes and chlorine retains its disinfecting ability to higher pH values. But do not exceed the Ph level above 7.6.

In most pools, the pH tends to increase over time. Pool aeration (hydromassage, fountains, active games) raises the pH level. But there are some pools in which the pH level decreases. In order to raise its level, you need to use “pH-plus”. You will need to raise the pH no more than once or twice a season, so you won’t spend a lot of money on it.

To lower the pH, use the “ph-minus” preparation. It is quite possible that having risen to 7.6-7.8 ph will practically stop increasing.

The dosage is indicated on the ph+ and ph- preparations, but in fact the dosage greatly depends on the alkalinity of the water. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations, monitoring the results. If you notice that the pH changes too much, I recommend raising the alkalinity by adding 90 g of regular baking soda (not household or washing) soda per cubic meter of water. This will reduce the consumption of ph-.

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There are several chemicals used by hobby gardeners to pH adjustment. Probably the most popular are phosphoric acid (to lower pH) and potassium hydroxide (to raise pH). Both of these chemicals are relatively safe, although they can cause burns, and should never come into contact with the eyes.

More often, stores specializing in hydroponics sell pH regulators, which are diluted to a level that is reasonably safe and convenient. Concentrated regulators can cause large changes in pH, and can make pH adjustment very frustrating.

Several other chemicals can be used to adjust the pH of hydroponic nutrient solutions. Nitric and sulfuric acids can be used to lower pH, but they are much more dangerous than phosphoric acid. Food grade citric acid is sometimes used in organic gardening to lower pH.

Always add nutrients to the water before testing and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution. Nutrients typically lower the pH of water due to chemical compensation. After adding nutrients and mixing the solution, check the pH using available measuring instruments.

If the pH needs to be adjusted, add an appropriate regulator. Use small amounts of pH adjuster until you become comfortable with the process. Recheck the pH and repeat the above steps until the pH level reaches the desired value.

The pH of the nutrient solution will tend to rise as the plants use the nutrients. As a result, the pH must be checked periodically (and adjusted if necessary). To start, I suggest that you test your pH daily.

Each system changes pH in different proportions depending on a variety of factors. Such as the type of substrate used, the weather, the type of plant, and even the age of the plant, all affect the change in pH.