Mountaineering is usually divided into several types. What is the difference between mountain tourism and sport mountaineering? High-altitude mountaineering

Perhaps you were once involved in tourism or trekking, but your eyes were attracted by snow-white mountain peaks, you wanted to conquer them and look down on the world. Previously, mountain tourism loved passes, but now everyone always includes peaks in their routes - because it’s just cool. And in general, in mountaineering, climbing to the top is the most beautiful moment when a new world opens up before you.

Question “Where to go when you want to reach the top?”- very relevant. Because two limiting factors - time and money - greatly influence the choice.

For some, mountaineering is a sport, for others it is romance, for others it is work - everyone decides for themselves. On the other hand, mountaineering is such an applied thing, when starting to practice it you must clearly understand that in the future your health and life will depend on your knowledge, skills and experience. Mountaineering is dangerous from the very beginning.

Classic mountaineering

In classical mountaineering there is a gradation, partly conditional, but quite clear:

Rock climbing- rock routes of Crimea, Karavshin, Patagonia and so on.

Technical mountaineering- these are routes with rock-ice or mixed terrain. That is, routes that require more experience and labor.

High altitude mountaineering- the most trendy direction, ideal for satisfying your own ambitions.

High End- high-altitude technical mountaineering, sport climbing along serious walls on high mountains.

Disciplines spun off from mountaineering

Rock climbing

Let's start with rock climbing - it is now in trend, it is fashionable and beautiful. You can do it for fun, without bothering yourself with any competitions. Unless you just compete with yourself. But this is the most interesting incentive for growth. Now many climbing walls have opened, there are many rocks - everyone will decide for themselves what to choose. Another plus is that in our country there are many competent instructors who are passionate about their work. Otherwise, there is nothing special to recommend, just sign up and come to a place convenient for you. Regarding equipment, I can give one piece of advice - do not buy climbing shoes until the first lesson (and in some cases, until the 6-7th lesson). Conduct your first lesson in rented shoes. Try to choose ones that are tight for you so that your legs get used to this feeling. And then come buy your own.

Ice climbing

Ice climbing here, with Moscow frosts, is often similar to “tree climbing.” But if you have the opportunity to go to frozen waterfalls or there are icicles nearby, then this is excellent training before climbing. If you only want to do ice climbing, keep in mind that your activities will be limited to winter only. On the other hand, if you are comfortable climbing trees with tools in the summer, good for you. Ice climbing requires a little more equipment than rock climbing, but all of this can be bought as you get into it.

Ivan Temerev at the Bazha-Kaya waterfall © Kirill Belotserkovsky, Ambassador of “Sport Marathon”

List of ice climbing equipment from Kirill Belotserkovsky

Drytooling

Drytooling is practiced by ice climbers, who get bored in the absence of ice: they take tools, crampons and climb on anything. This activity requires enough intensive training: even just holding hoes in your hands on the route is already a serious load. But, in certain doses, drytooling - good workout before climbing. Where to do it? There are climbing walls where some routes are designated specifically for drytooling. In Moscow, for example, in RedPoint or Sosulka (MAI alpine club). For lovers of real ice, perhaps the most the best place- the village of Zhikharevka near Kubinka: a decent icicle has been poured there for several years in a row.

Skyrunning

Skyrunning is an excellent training for further mountaineering. A skyrunner as part of a climbing group is always a big bonus. Simply because in the mountains, whatever one may say, the most important quality is endurance. And skyrunning trains her well. Your heart and muscles will work perfectly. This is also the most democratic type of training - buy sneakers and you can run. There are plenty of competitions going on in Russia now if you need to stay motivated.

How to start mountaineering?

Mountaineering is a rather difficult and expensive activity. But if you approach this wisely, you can get by with a very small budget, if you wish. Previously, we had only official mountaineering and it could be practiced exclusively in special clubs and sections - and no questions arose. Now there is also official mountaineering under various federations. Those who want to find a company and follow some established standards go there. In fact, the main document for them becomes the “Climber’s Book” (“Will they print my book?” - main question). I try not to work with such people, because for them the mountains fade into the background, and the material component comes first, that is, the bonuses (actually mythical) that they receive. On the other hand, if it motivates them, that’s also good.

As opposed to official mountaineering, there is commercial mountaineering- this is absolute freedom. You don’t get hung up on any categories, but you can choose for yourself the direction in mountaineering that you want to do. And nothing will stop you from doing this outside of any system. But, on the other hand, this is still a business - there is nothing sacred in it and you need to constantly keep your eyes open

So, you have decided that you want to go mountaineering. I would like to note that the official path is less thorny and, to some extent, even more suitable - you come to the club, follow all the guidelines, grow above yourself, you have company. There is no need to self-organize here. There are quite a few clubs in Moscow, but they are mainly student clubs. For those who come from outside, I recommend the MAI club - it is the most democratic. In terms of the level of its equipment and instructor staff, it is the most suitable; there you will find everything you need. There are also commercial clubs. For example, Black Ice in Moscow. By and large, before going to the mountains, it doesn’t matter where you practice, especially technical things - in any club you will be given approximately the same information. Your task is to comprehend some specific techniques. This can be taught by any person who started reading books on mountaineering or took courses before you. That is, in fact, you can do without clubs. The only problem is the company. Starting mountaineering without company is quite difficult. From my own experience I can say that if you manage to persuade at least one person, that’s already very great. You won’t need 20 people - than more company, the more difficult it is to combine all interests. The ideal option is a bunch. If you have it, you can easily merge with any other company, go on hikes and grow above yourself. And if you don’t have such a friend, then classes in clubs will help you find him.

At first, going to the mountains is quite an expensive undertaking. In addition, for example, our Caucasus is completely unsuited for individual ascents - with its terrible logistics, which will ultimately cost more than a flight. Therefore, the easiest way from an organizational point of view is to get into the mountains, again with some kind of group.

Sayan Mountains © Sergey Glazunov

If you don’t have the opportunity to study at a club, that’s also not a problem. You just need to be prepared to strain yourself in terms of personal self-organization. Because the main training for a climber is climbing. This means that the off-season (the time you spend between trips to the mountains) needs to be used as productively as possible: to pump up your overall physical training and practice some technical elements - it’s easy to find on YouTube necessary videos. In order not to waste time in the mountains studying knots later. Moreover, now you can easily sign up for first aid or cord knitting courses. Or, for example, practice the movement yourself in conjunction. All this is needed to save time. You go to the mountains for an average of two weeks. It is very disappointing to spend them on practicing some skills.

Another important task is to choose the best option for going to the mountains in advance. It is important to choose an area and events that will have competent instructors. By the way, about the instructors: with them now big problems. In fact, there are a lot of them - they all got their degrees, they know how to knit cordelettes, they know a lot of technical techniques, but it’s still good to practice with them only in the city. To work in the mountains, you need to look for a professional with extensive experience who constantly climbs. And it doesn’t matter at all whether it has a crust or not.

First trip to the mountains

The region closest to us is the Caucasus. But now the only living camp left there is Bezengi. And there are two more, let’s say, half-dead camps - Ullu-Tau and Uzunkol.

Bezengi

Bezengi is a fairy tale region, but, unfortunately, not educational at all. First, logistics: getting to any of these camps is expensive. But that's not even the main thing. Bezengi is a large and high area, with strong changes, long approaches and difficult routes. Adequate testing grounds - rock and ice - are located quite far away. I can’t imagine how you can start mountaineering in Bezengi: you need to be prepared for it. This is a wonderful sports area where you should come sports group for a month. Or even for two weeks, if you first undergo acclimatization. But you can always buy a shift for beginners, go and see the stunning mountains and generally understand whether you need it or not.

Ullu-Tau and Uzunkol

Ullu-Tau and Uzunkol are more compact areas with lower altitude. The main problem is the lack of adequate ice routes in summer and their extreme danger of rocks. But at the same time, there are many rocky mountains in Uzunkol where you can hone your rock climbing techniques. Of all the Caucasian regions, this one is the best for a first trip. But the organization there is not very good. Uzunkol is a non-functional camp; training camps are held there, which means you need to cling to some group. It's the same story with Ullu-Tau.

Crimea

A good option for your first trip is Crimea. This is if you want to hone your technical skills. In addition, there are commercial courses where you can learn some techniques. In Crimea, logistics are quite simple and in a week you can gain as much knowledge as in the Caucasus they usually gain in three months. There are no great heights, which means they are not so strong physical exercise and you can focus directly on the process.

The remaining permanent camps are located in Asia. Tuyuk-Su in Almaty (Kazakhstan), Artuch in Tajikistan and Ala-Archa in Kyrgyzstan. For the first trip ideal places- this is either Tuyuk-Su or. Firstly, thanks to logistics. Both camps are located near large cities and airports: getting there is easy for quite reasonable money. In addition, good asphalt ends there from the beginning of the trail. And this is very rare.

Tuyuk-Su

The Tuyuk-Su district is not very compact, but it is low. This means less stress on the body. The only negative is that the locals live quite low and the approaches are a bit long. But the mountains are technical, the routes are not long, and you can practice your technique on them. And most importantly, they have one of the best instructor teams. These are young guys, real professionals who spend a lot of time in the mountains and, in addition to working with clients, constantly go just for themselves, to maintain and improve their level. And this is very important. Yes, sometimes Kirill Belotserkovsky, the local guide, can be tough, but he's worth it. Here you need to understand the difference - it’s one thing if the instructor swears at you to express himself, it’s another thing when it’s a work process.

Fan Mountains

The Fan Mountains are also a gorgeous area. Camp Artuch was built on the Allaudin lakes, in the heart of the mountains. The houses there are located at the very beginning of the routes, which saves a lot of time. But there are also problems. They are approximately the same as in the Caucasus. First of all, logistics - you have to get from Dushanbe through a million passes. And also the need to stick to someone else’s gatherings. But as a rule, once a year some clubs or federations definitely hold training camps there. Google can help you - look for information, write, find out details.

Ala-Archa is, based on the totality of all factors, today an ideal educational and sports area. A taxi will take you from the airport to the camp. In addition, you will live right at the beginning of the routes, just like in Artuch. There are all the conditions of a mountain camp, but at an altitude of 3,200 meters. The rock range is right outside your door; to the ice range you will need to walk half an hour or an hour. There are many mountains around with small approaches. There are different routes (including combined ones) and even in summer you can find ice - this is a significant plus. The camp is staffed by professional Bishkek guys who spend most of their time in the mountains.

Ala-Archa © Dmitry Pavlenko

Commercial fees

Nowadays, there are many commercial gatherings, in which you can participate for very real money. I recommend the Ural highland club “Highlander” by Yuri Ermachek to everyone. In terms of sincerity, information content and benefits for participants, this is an excellent option. This club has an already established team of instructors. The geography of the training camp is also impressive.

“Mountains of Baikal”, which was created by the Glazunov brothers, holds training camps in Sayanakh. However, there may be problems with logistics and the high cost of tickets. But if such an opportunity arises, go to these training camps, you won’t regret it. The Glazunov brothers are now perhaps the best young instructors. And they are the strongest technical climbers in Russia, they have serious high-altitude experience. That is, these are people you want to emulate. And the Sayans are excellent low mountains with good technical routes and well-made multi-pitches.

Sayan Mountains © Sergey Glazunov

Each regional federation holds its own commercial training camps. The location and time are not difficult to find on the Internet. The main thing is not to be lazy in choosing a competent instructor, because having an instructor’s certificate is by no means a guarantee of having real experience and knowledge, just like any diploma, in fact. Now you can find out everything about everyone - Google can help.

Another option, if funds allow, is to find yourself an instructor and do some kind of program with him. This, by the way, is the most productive method. Sometimes it doesn't even turn out to be as expensive as it might seem at first glance. But at the same time, the instructor must live in the mountains and walk in them constantly. Keep in mind that among Russian guides there are very few professionals of the required level. These are the Glazunov brothers, Grigory Kochetkov, Viktor Afanasyev - those who are well known and actually work. Therefore, it is better to choose an Asian guide. For example, Kirill Belotserkovsky or Max Ten, Sergei Seliverstov, Artur Usmanov, Pavel Vorobyov, Alexey Pototsky, Mikhail Danichkin. These are exactly the people who can immerse you in real mountaineering: they understand the mountains, understand the dangers and know how to level them out, and this is the most important thing. If the instructor does not go to the mountains all the time, then all this is forgotten.

Your goals in mountaineering

First, decide what your goal is: are your activities for the soul or for sports? For fun, you can climb the mountains of Crimea or walk complex technical routes, selecting them according to your level. This way you will get the joy of communicating with the mountains, but there will not be a serious degree of difficulty. Of course, you still need to train, but without fanaticism. And even if you go with a guide, you must be prepared. Because if something suddenly happens to the guide, then the chances of rescue become minimal.

The most trending direction now is commercial heights: Elbrus, and then Lenin Peak. Simply because of the seven-thousanders, this is the most budget option with normal logistics. This is a route that requires nothing but willpower, health and tremendous luck. Take trekking poles in your hands, grit your teeth, charge yourself with energy - and go ahead. It’s difficult with the rest of the Russian seven-thousanders. Therefore, options arise with Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua and others, where, relatively speaking, the “beer kiosks” end not so far from the top. If funds allow, you can go to Nepal, where there are a lot of trekking peaks over 6,000 meters high. If you are not attracted to higher levels, then such ascents will last you a lifetime.

If you're drawn to 8,000 meters, keep in mind that quite a lot of the climb involves kilometers of fixed ropes. And one of the main problems that ascenders have is the inability to walk on them. And if there are rocks at the same time, this is a colossal difficulty. Therefore, before you go to conquer the eight-thousanders, first go to Khan from the north - where there is a 2 km drop in railings from the base camp to Chapaev Peak and another 900 meters on the main ridge. This will be a great school. You will not feel this in any classes or training mountains, where there are only 6-7 ropes and railings.

I don't really like heights, I prefer technical climbs. They allow you to enjoy a specific moment of movement. And 98% of those who ascend enjoy the height while sitting at home and looking at photographs, moving away from all this horror. As for technical climbs, they offer quite a lot of variety. If you like rocks, you can go to Crimea, where there is an excellent rock training ground, or you can go to Europe to the Dolomites.

Safety system. I am against rental options, because the system is one of the main components of mountaineering, and it is better to immediately get used to the one in which you will be walking. This will allow you to develop automatic motor skills. I think the perfect climbing harness is made by Singing Rock because of their magical patented buckles that make it easy to put on and take off without any acrobatics. The ability to put something on yourself or, excuse me, go to the toilet without removing the insurance is very important. Some people think that when choosing a gazebo, you need to hang on it for ten minutes and understand whether it is convenient or not. But I think this is unnecessary. Gazebos are not for hanging in - you are not industrial climbers, but for holding in case of a fall. The more powerful the gazebo, the more inconvenient it will be to move in it.

Self-insurance. I suggest stopping at the very simple version- a piece of rope with two knots at the ends. For self-insurance, it is very important that it be adjustable, and you can always make one from the option I have proposed. They are much more convenient to use than rigid self-belays.

Minimum set of carbines. One large one on the gazebo, two on the lanyard and one or two for every fireman.

Figure-of-eight belay device. I'm on personal experience at different conditions I tested all the devices there are and remained faithful to this simple device. This is the most versatile belay device in the mountains. It works with rope in any condition and any thickness. Yes, it’s not always as convenient to work with it as with a “basket,” but after a couple of workouts everything will start to work out.

Zhumar. Despite the fact that now many manufacturers copy the Petzl cam, with the same design on an icy rope, according to my personal observations, Petzl still holds better. There is still a point with the choice of zhumar. Some right-handers find the left jumar extremely uncomfortable. But in fact, if you are not running against the clock and the seconds of re-stitching are not important to you, which jumar to choose - left or right - makes absolutely no difference.

Cats. Yes, you can rent them, but this is an element of equipment that you need to get used to. By the way, before going to the mountains, it’s very cool to drive them in the city first, even if it’s through mud. When buying cats for the first time, do not pay any attention to brands - take the cheapest ones that you don’t mind killing, because you will definitely have to kill them if you want to learn something - they are consumables. In my opinion, the ideal option in terms of price-quality ratio is, again, Singing Rock. They have semi-automatic fastenings. This is good in that they stay on a single welt boot and work well with shoe covers if you need to put them on.

"Hoes" - ice tools. You need your own instrument so that you can start to get used to it. To begin with, you can take the simplest straight “chopper”. But you have to understand that you can’t go anywhere with it other than commercial heights. For the same purposes, an ice ax with a more curved handle, giving a much more aggressive angle of attack, is a big plus. Because situations are different. Suddenly you have to hack yourself, and even with one hand. The problem with such an ice ax is that it has a non-replaceable beak. If you decide to continue mountaineering, it makes sense to invest in a hoe with a replaceable beak, just make sure that it is easy to find for your model. For example, Singing Rock is the most budget brand.

Mountaineering is a specific type of human activity. Its content is not limited to sports aspects only. The range of personal and social interests of a person in the mountains is extremely wide and unique. In the understanding of the average person, mountaineering is something from a series of mountain climbing.

The term mountaineering is interpreted as climbing high mountains. But this formulation, of course, is not exhaustive for real climbers. Mountaineering is a social mountaineering activity, it is a sport, it is life, it is a state of mind. Climbers themselves will most likely define their occupation as a system of knowledge, skills and abilities that allow a person to successfully and safely live and work in high altitude conditions.

Mountaineering is part of our sports system. Its health aspect is also beyond doubt. Still, mountain Fresh air. In general, we can say that every area of human existence will find its advantages in mountaineering. People who are initially predisposed to an active lifestyle come to mountaineering. Traveling in the mountains helps strengthen a consciously active attitude towards life. Mountaineering develops the ability to analyze standard and non-standard situations, determine one’s place and role in events, and elevates goodwill in communication to the principle. Any team of climbers Mountaineering operates in changing conditions - both according to the mood of the people and the nature of the habitat. Such a life develops the ability to act wisely and clearly in any situation.

One of the most necessary qualities of a climber is the desire and ability to learn. It is to study, and not just to train. In mountaineering, training regulated by a single program exists as a continuously operating factor; it accompanies a beginner, a badge, a discharger, a master, an instructor all the time a person is in the mountains or preparing for them.

Any planned ascent must correspond to the knowledge and skills of the participants, but not only each participant, but the entire group as a whole must be prepared for the upcoming one. Educational process is structured so that upon completion of the next stage of training the participant has a well-defined stock of knowledge and skills.

Of course, the highest mountaineering achievements require enormous, all-consuming work and a certain level of talent. In this respect, mountaineering is no different from many other human activities. But in addition to the highest achievements, there are also simple ascents, and a number of routes of increasing difficulty have their own for each person. highest achievement. And almost every healthy person can go to the top along routes of the 1st category of difficulty. He must only have an idea of the features and possible dangers of mountain nature and the ensuing norms and rules of conduct in the mountains, and master the necessary minimum techniques movement and mutual insurance on various types mountainous terrain.

If you just look at the map, you can easily identify climbing spots. There are a huge number of them. This is the Himalayas - the highest mountain system in the world between the Tibetan Plateau and the Indo-Gangetic Plain, this is Altai, the length of which is over 2000 km, the Iranian Plateau, the Karakoram - a mountain system in Central Asia, the well-known Tien Shan and many, many others, not to mention already about the mountains of America, Africa and Western Europe. In our country, the most famous mountains are the Caucasus, Crimea, Kamchatka and the Urals.

Mountaineering is divided into several types. High-altitude mountaineering is climbing the highest peaks in the world. As a rule, these are peaks more than six thousand meters above sea level. Technical mountaineering is climbing difficult routes that require the use of modern equipment; these can be large rock walls or combined routes (ice, rocks, snow). Technical mountaineering is diverse and multifaceted, and, like any other type, it requires professional approach. Today in the world of technical mountaineering there are many directions and success in any of them can only be achieved through continuous improvement. Sport climbing is a sport that originated from mountaineering. These are, first of all, competitions and training on pre-prepared tracks of short length (up to several tens of meters). Climbing is not about climbing to the top. Modern rock climbing is, in most cases, climbing on artificial terrain. This is a relatively safe (compared to mountaineering) sport. And yet the key concept of all mountaineering is endurance

Mountaineering - climbing mountain peaks. The word mountaineering comes from the name of the Alps - the highest mountain system in Western Europe. The Alps are not the only name for this sport; mountain climbers in the Himalayas are sometimes called Himalayans, in the High Tatras - Tatars, in Yugoslavia they are called Gorolesians, etc.

The first type of mountaineering is rock and ice climbing, their meaning is this: you need to walk on snow, rocks and ice. The routes of such ascents usually have overnight stops, because the pace of movement is low, not all beginners can cope with the weight of equipment, and the body needs to get used to a height difference of even five hundred meters.

Second, but not least, type - rock climbing. Almost always, the ascent occurs in a snow-free place where there is no ice, while the elevation changes are low and oxygen starvation does not occur. There is no need to take a lot of warm clothes with you, great importance has shoes - let them be comfortable climbing boots.

There is also high altitude mountaineering- this is overcoming and conquering rocks, mountains, sometimes even buildings; they can reach a height of six and a half kilometers and much more. This type of mountaineering is often practiced by professionals, and even they cannot withstand long periods of time at an altitude of eight thousand kilometers, the so-called “death zone”, where due to lack of oxygen, it is necessary to use special equipment for survival. Big Wall- this is a term that came to us from America and it means overcoming high walls over a kilometer, with all sorts of complex routes of movement. Many climbers can try themselves in ice climbing - these are some kind of competitions, the task of which is to conquer a block of ice. Whoever is faster will win.

Features of types of rock climbing

A climber must have a calm character, be independent, hardy, must always come to the rescue, and easily endure stress. During the ascent itself, he can overcome both internal and external problems of character and life. there should be the most possible, designed for all occasions and incidents on the route. For each individual climbing route, ice axes, rope railings, crampon boots and much more, no less important for the trip, are selected.

It is up to the climber to decide whether to go alone or in a group. If he is a master of his craft, then maybe he will go alone. It is because of this that if you are new to rock climbing, it is better to go on the route with a group, or with an instructor if the altitude is low. In a group, of course, it is safer, cheaper, easier and you will undoubtedly have more fun, but on the way sometimes various problems arise related to vehicles, places to stay overnight and even conflict situations. Experienced climbers never refer to someone else’s opinion when deciding for themselves whether to climb in a group or go out alone.

Development of mountaineering in Russia

IN Russian Federation There are several famous peaks where climbers from all over the world want to climb - for example, Kazbek or Elbrus. There are many different routes on the peaks. For beginners, those that are easier for many and they are not high, but for professionals, the routes lead to the very top along the most difficult mountain paths.

Elbrus

Its peaks are located on the borders of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia. As you know, this mountain is the highest in Russia, and they began to conquer it back in the 19th century. Now the Elbrus region is one of the major centers of tourism and skiing. People who work there come there different types sports: skiing, mountaineering, snowboarding and much more.

Around Elbrus there are Caucasian peaks of extraordinary beauty: Nakra-Tau, Ushby, Donguz-Oruna.

Kazbek

Kazbek is the peak of the Caucasus, more than five thousand kilometers high, located on the border with Georgia. Here, at an altitude of more than four thousand meters, the old cave monastery complex of Betlemi is located to this day. There is an abandoned weather station building nearby, which serves as a temporary shelter for climbers. Mount Kazbek attracts adventurers and travelers with its extraordinary magic of beauty, inaccessibility and royalty. On the territory of the mountain there is a Trinity Church. And in the village of Stepantsminda, the cross of the Georgian Saint Nino is kept.

Munku-Sardyk

This is the highest Sayan mountain and the peak located on the border with Mongolia, it reaches three thousand four hundred and ninety-one meters in height. All these mountainous areas come from a glacier, and to this day you can find few glaciers there that are disappearing. A large number of mountain paths and passes have already been laid on Munku-Sardyk for professional and beginner climbers. People usually come here with the onset of spring. The ascent will begin from a picturesque canyon, along the old, icy beds of the Muguvek and Bely Irkut rivers. The route for beginners, the easiest one, runs along the northern ridge of the peak.

Tordoki-Yani

The highest peak of the Sikhote-Alin mountain system, it is located in the Amur region. It is located in the Khabarovsk Territory and reaches a height of two thousand and ninety meters. The glaciers that formed the cirque niches have long disappeared. The niches are filled with lakes and moraine; in addition, there are various terrains there: tundra, forest, dwarf cedar and stone scree.

Mountaineering in the West and East

More than half of the mountains mentioned below are not the highest peaks in the world, and that is why easy routes popular among climbers are laid there.

Everest, India - China

Everest is located in the Himalayas in India, but the peak itself belongs to the borders of China. This peak is the highest peak in the world at eight hundred and forty-eight meters above sea level. Chomolungma, which is the second name of the mountain, always attracts tourists and climbers, despite the fact that there are a lot of other mountains nearby.

The weather on Everest can be very frightening: blizzards at a speed of two hundred kilometers per hour, temperatures sometimes drop to minus sixty degrees Celsius. No beginners come here, and not every professional dares to conquer this peak.

Unfortunately, the slopes of the peaks are littered with garbage, it is here because of sluggish tourists, which is why Chomolungma received the nickname of the great dump of the world.

Ama Dablam, Nepal

This peak belongs to the Himalayas, its height is six thousand eight hundred fourteen meters. Located in Nepal, it is depicted on the banknotes of this country, since the mountain is recognized as the most magnificent mountain range in the Everest region. Around Ama Dablam lies the Sagarmatha National Park.

This peak became famous not so long ago; climbers are drawn to it because of its majesty and purity. The standard route stretches along one of the ridges from south to west. All the most interesting sections of the route are located at an altitude of as much as six thousand meters.

McKinley, Alaska, USA

Two peaks united with each other, for which it is called double-headed, is located in the northern part of the United States of America - Alaska. It is almost impossible to conquer it due to the low temperatures (from minus forty degrees Celsius), the thin air is such that you can get altitude sickness, a mountain at a high latitude.

The South Summit is considered the highest peak of Mount McKingley. If you still managed to conquer it, then you can consider it a victory. The northern part is visited by tourists very rarely. More recently, this peak was considered inaccessible, although legends about the conquest of the McKingley peaks have been circulating for a long time, but it was believed that these were legends. In the twenties
years was able to conquer a native Alaskan.

Aconcagua, Argentina

Aconcagua is considered to be the largest extinct volcano in the world; it is six thousand nine hundred and fifty-two meters high. It is located in the center of the Andes, on the territory of the National Park. There are glaciers on the northeastern and eastern parts of the peak.

Ancogua is not one of the most difficult mountains in the world; virtually anyone can climb its northern slope, even a poorly trained beginner, the main thing here is good. At the top you feel a slight lack of oxygen; it is possible to do without oxygen cylinders.

Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

This is a fabulous peak from Africa, has a height of five thousand eight hundred and ninety-five meters and it is also a supposedly dormant volcano that can wake up at any time, although the likelihood of this is very low, many people could suffer. There are six routes to climb Kilimanjaro. There are routes with organized overnight stays, where large warm ones are installed. There are also a couple of paths with special climbers' houses. The most visited trails are Mashame and Marangu, where you can also visit the national park. The average ascent and descent time is from five days to a week. The record for ascent time is only fourteen hours and fifty minutes, it was set by the Tanzanian Rogatu Mtui, he covered eight thousand meters up and back.

Mountaineering is a sport leisure and a way of life whose goal is to climb to the top of mountains. This is a rather difficult sport that requires physical endurance and courage, patience and courage, concentration and self-discipline. Sports essence mountaineering consists of overcoming natural obstacles created by nature (height, terrain, weather conditions) on the way to the top. Mountaineering takes its name from the name of the Alps mountain system, since it was there that this type of activity originated.
The date of the origin of mountaineering is considered to be August 8, 1786, when the doctor Michel-Gabriel Packard and mountain guide Jacques Balmat ascended the highest point of the Alps - Mont Blanc. The monument to the first climbers of Mont Blanc is located in the world center of mountaineering and alpine skiing- Chamonix.

Mountaineering is a very risky activity that should never be underestimated, no matter how easy or harmless the chosen peak looks. If you are a beginner and have no experience in mountain walking, you should travel with a more experienced partner or guide. From them you can learn how to stay safe in the mountains, allowing you to return for another adventure. It is best to join an alpine club or go to an alpine camp.

What are the benefits of mountaineering?

There are many benefits of mountaineering. The most obvious benefits are the improvement of both your physical health, increasing strength, as well as reducing body weight with aerobic exercise. Other less obvious or “less tangible” benefits include psychological training and teamwork skills. You will use all this in your work and personal life without even knowing it!

Who can go mountaineering?

No real ones age restrictions to start mountain climbing. The world knows examples of successful climbers who started even after 50 years. Of course, children under 16 years of age must exercise under adult supervision. Anyone can start practicing this sport and, even with a low level of training, achieve certain success after some time. To the tops of 1B c.s. Any healthy person can climb. Any planned ascent must correspond to the knowledge and skills of the participants, but not only each participant, but the entire group as a whole must be prepared for the upcoming one.

How long does the climb take?

Short routes can last several hours, followed by a descent on foot from the top. The next stage is when the routes take several days and require an overnight stay on the mountain. There are also very extreme climbs that take more than one week or even a month. This mainly concerns high-altitude ascents.

Types of mountaineering

Many directions have appeared in mountaineering, but the two main types are technical and high-altitude mountaineering.

Technical mountaineering

Technical mountaineering- these are ascents along difficult routes to peaks up to 6500 meters high, requiring the use of special equipment. These can be large rock walls or combined routes (ice, rocks, snow). Technical mountaineering is diverse and multifaceted, and, like any other type, requires a professional approach. Today in the world of technical mountaineering there are many directions and success in any of them can only be achieved through continuous improvement. The main thing that distinguishes and characterizes technical mountaineering is the complexity of the sections traversed, and not the final height mark. There are various subtypes of technical mountaineering: Big Wall (wall climbing), ice and rock routes.

High altitude mountaineering - This is climbing to peaks over 6500 meters above sea level. The main difficulty is the body’s unsuitability for being at such altitudes. When staying for a long time high altitude Oxygen starvation occurs and, as a result, mountain sickness occurs. To overcome the negative effects of altitude and successfully climb, acclimatization is always required. Despite the use of special oxygen equipment during high-altitude ascents to peaks above 8000 meters above sea level, it is impossible for a person to remain at these altitudes for a long time.

Some ascents are classified as both types, then such ascents are called high-altitude technical ascents. Only professionals in this sport are capable of this. Ice climbing, rock climbing and mountain tourism separated from mountaineering and became independent sports.

Relief

Mountaineering includes techniques for overcoming various obstacles: snow, glaciers, ice, rocks. Each type of terrain requires special equipment to overcome it. Even within a single climb, climbers often encounter multiple terrain forms.

Snow
Snow allows climbers to use only their leg technique. Of course, crampons and an ice ax are required to get around. Crampons - metal devices for moving on snow and ice, attached to boots different ways. An ice ax is a tool for organizing belay and self-insurance on ice and snow slopes. Snow is considered one of the most dangerous species terrain due to the difficulty of organizing insurance and the likelihood of avalanches.

Glaciers
Glacier is a huge mass of ice formed and existing due to the accumulation and transformation of falling snow into ice and moving under the influence of gravity. The main danger of glaciers are cracks. Glaciers with visible cracks are called open, while those with invisible ones (under the snow) are called closed. To overcome, crampons and ice axes are used.

Ice
Icefalls, ice slopes - all these are types of ice relief. The steeper the slope, the more complex the technique the climber uses. Crampons are also used to overcome, but they are more technical than for snow and ice. As well as ice tools or ice fifi. Ice screws are used as belay points, which are considered one of the most reliable belay points. The main danger is ice collapses.

Rocks
Rock climbing is an integral part of most mountaineering trips. The climber must be able to negotiate rocky areas using their own belay points. For belaying, special devices are used, such as hooks, bookmarks, stoppers, and friends. Rock climbing and bouldering are sports that have separated from mountaineering and become independent areas. The main danger of this type of terrain in mountaineering is rockfalls.

Difficulty categories

Routes to mountain peaks and traverses differ in total complexity, absolute and relative heights, length and steepness, the presence of rocks, ice and snow cover and their condition. Routes also depend on meteorological conditions in the area where they are located. The complexity categories of routes refer to the complex of microrelief. This complex includes the difficulties and conditions of individual sections, their length, location and alternation on the route, the length and duration of the route as a whole. In Russia, climbing routes are classified from 1B to 6B difficulty categories. In France, the gradation ranges from F to ED. Many countries have their own difficulty categories. There are comparative tables of various scales.

Mountains attract people who love nature and have an adventurous spirit. Reaching the top of the mountain isn't always easy, but it always feels worthwhile. It always seems that your efforts are worth standing on the top of a mountain and looking at the world around you through the eyes of birds...

The Traverss club offers various theoretical and practical courses that will teach you the necessary skills. In addition, every year beginners and experienced climbers go to the Caucasus, Pamir, Tien Shan, the Alps, Tatras, Himalayas and other mountains to climb, i.e. what every climber strives for.

The thirst for knowledge has always drawn a person to the new and unknown. Under the influence of this force, people discovered and explored new lands during the Age of Discovery. Gradually, white spots disappeared on the map of our planet, and now there is not a single corner left where man has not visited. But the spirit of exploration still lives in each of us and makes us embark on journeys in search of another reality.

Mountains will always be one of the most attractive places for humans. The abundance and variety of vertical forms, unusual for a plains dweller; the harsh climate, its own laws and rules - all this makes the mountains look like another planet or another dimension.

And so you, a resident of the city, decided to touch the unknown. What to do? How to penetrate this new world? It’s good if you have friends who can help you with advice or become guides to the world of the mountains. And if not? There are plenty of other ways to get to the mountains.

But first things first.

What are mountains?

When someone hears the word “mountains,” an image of green alpine meadows and streams babbling in the valleys comes to mind. And some have harsh, gigantic peaks covered with ice. One thing is for sure - the mountains are very diverse. Quite conventionally, they can be divided into low mountains, middle mountains and high mountains. Also, mountain systems differ in age, nuances of geological structure, and origin.

Who goes to the mountains? These are two large groups of people - (mountain) tourists and climbers. They have a lot in common, but no less excellent. These are like skiers and snowboarders, fans of Canon and Nikon photographic equipment or Intel and AMD processors.

From a financial point of view, there are two ways to the mountains - either through commerce or through sports.

Let's start with commerce - everything is simple here. Nowadays you can find many companies on the Internet that offer hiking and climbing to the top. You just buy a tour, and the company takes care of everything.

The company will provide you with almost everything: meet you at the airport or train station, organize a transfer from the collection point to the base camp, organize accommodation, provide a ready-made acclimatization and ascent program, as well as guides. They will also help with the missing equipment - in a word, with all the problems that an inexperienced person faces.

In addition to companies, there are also guides who work individually. Unfortunately, in this field sometimes you come across non-professionals who pose a danger both to themselves and to clients. Alas, there is still a legal vacuum in the field of commercial mountaineering and tourism. Anyone can call themselves a mountain guide, gather a group of people and lead them somewhere.

“There is still a legal vacuum in the field of commercial mountaineering and tourism”

Only recently has the state begun to make timid attempts to regulate this type of activity. Unlike Europe, commercial tourism and mountaineering have only recently emerged in our country. The profession of a guide in the Alps is officially recognized, and this is reflected in the legislation of many European countries. There are also unions of mountain guides. And to work in the profession, a person needs official accreditation and about 5 years of training for serious money. In Russia, this profession is just beginning to form - not so long ago it was included in the register of professions as “instructor-guide”. Now the issue of creating an accreditation mechanism is being resolved.

If you decide to go to the mountains, using the services of the company, here are some tips:

Be sure to provide yourself with insurance for extreme species sports The insurance policy must clearly state “mountain climbing” and the possibility of transportation by small aircraft.
Check the company's reputation to see if there have been any unpleasant incidents in its history. Here it is advisable to find and ask around clients who have already gone hiking with the company.
Find out how the guides of this company work with clients. You can look at reviews on the Internet, but do not forget that they can be custom-made.
Don't skimp on the duration of the tours. Let's take Elbrus as an example. It is possible to climb the highest point in Europe in 5 days, as some suggest, but the climb will not be pleasant for you. Lack of acclimatization will make you suffer. If your body does not have time to adapt to hypoxic conditions, brain cells will die in a rarefied atmosphere. With age, this will make itself felt. A comfortable and healthy climb requires more time. Add here the time to catch good weather. In total, it will take 10 days to get to Elbrus.
Remember - on the one hand, it is now difficult to make claims to the company. On the other hand, a serious company that has been working in this field for a long time always values its business reputation, and therefore all processes related to the organization of tours and ascents are fine-tuned there like clockwork.

Commercial tours are mostly aimed at the average person without serious hiking or mountaineering experience. This is a good option for those who want to get to the mountains for the first time.

But there is also an alternative to commerce - this is sports mountain tourism and sports mountaineering.

Sports mountain tourism

For an uninitiated person, it is strange to hear the phrase “sports tourism”. After all, the word “tourism” brings to mind images of a beach resort holiday in Turkey or Egypt. Why did tourism become a sport?

It all started as excursion tourism in the 1920s, but by the mid-30s, two independent directions emerged in the development of tourism - tourist excursion and amateur. At that time, mountain tourism and mountaineering were considered one type of tourism; their separation occurred later, in the 40s. Then amateur tourism came under the jurisdiction of the All-Union Committee for physical culture and sports.

In the post-war period, the state actively allocated funds for the restoration and construction of new tourist centers and camps. Tourist clubs at enterprises and universities have gained particular momentum. They were the main organizers sports tourism.

In 1949, tourism was included in the Unified All-Union Sports Classification. Amateur tourists began to be awarded sports categories and titles.

As a result, sports tourism has evolved into a rather useful system, which:

Provided legal framework.
She trained personnel for sports tourism, including instructors, which had a positive effect on safety during hikes.
Allowed the accumulation and transfer of knowledge about the organization of hikes.
She created databases of reports on the hikes completed, which provided up-to-date information about the geography of isolated corners of the country. The reports helped build new routes.

Since then, sports tourism has been travel in nature associated with the passage of categorized obstacles (with a difficulty category from 1 to 6).

The sports tourism system still exists today. How can an ordinary person get into it? You just need to find a sports tourist club in your city.
Typically, tourist clubs recruit members to their ranks in early autumn. This is due to the fact that summer is the busiest time for hiking. By autumn everyone returns, and active club life. However, you will be welcome at any time of the year.

The tourist club will tell you what to do, help you choose equipment and organize training. All this will most likely be free, the maximum that will be asked of you is a membership fee once a year.

The sports tourist club has a schedule of events for the year, including hikes, because it is for the sake of them that everything is started. You just need to meet and make friends with the staff of the tourist club and join the next trip.

As for the financial side of the issue, on a sports hike, including a mountain hike, money will only be spent on equipment and travel to the hike site.

Registration of the trip within sports system- a responsible event that the manager is involved in. Before the trip, he draws up a special route book and has it certified by the route qualification commission (RQC). There they check whether it is possible to let the group go on a hike, whether they have enough experience. After completing the hike, participants receive certificates that confirm the experience gained. These are important for applying for more challenging hikes. You can't do this without experience. And on the basis of these certificates you can issue sports category on tourism.

The hike itself is an event of 7 days or more, depending on the category of difficulty. At the highest, sixth, the hike can last more than 30 days. During a hike, people go autonomously, carrying equipment, fuel and food in backpacks for the entire duration of the hike. Sometimes, in order not to carry the entire load, they organize “drops” - they hide part of the fuel and food in a secluded place, which they take away after completing part of the route.

In tourism, routes include hiking, skiing, boating, cycling, and, of course, mountain routes. Each has its own algorithm and method of drawing up a route, which is handled by the leader of the trip.

The main obstacle on the mountain route is the passes, which require climbing equipment to overcome. Almost all passes on the territory of the former USSR have been passed, and they have been assigned a certain category of difficulty. In addition, hikes may include climbing to peaks. In the mountains, sometimes you have to cross mountain rivers or glaciers, which is not so easy. Mountain hiking is mainly done in summer; in winter and in the off-season, the avalanche danger is too great, and the conditions are much more severe.

In addition to mountain tourism, there is also sport mountaineering

In our country, the history of mountaineering and mountain climbing has a long history. The first known ascent of Russian people was the ascent of Peter I to Mount Brocken, (1142m) in Southern Germany in 1697.

At the initial stage, mountaineering was of practical importance in the development of new territories. This was especially facilitated by the creation of the Russian Geographical Society in 1845. At the beginning of the 20th century, mountaineering in Russia was also amateur in nature, and it was then that the Russian Mountain Society was created.

Mountaineering received active development in the USSR starting from the 20s - there it had military-applied significance. Its distinguishing feature was its mass appeal. Since 1931, two main directions have clearly emerged - educational and sports. Leningrad, Moscow, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, and Georgia became centers of mountaineering.

What is the difference between mountaineering and mountain tourism?

Firstly, in goals and objectives. If the goal of mountain tourists is to travel a route through the mountains, going through passes, then the goal of climbers is to climb to the top.

Secondly, climbers have their own system for assessing the difficulty of routes to the peaks. If we compare it with the system for assessing the difficulty of passes, then within the same category they are approximately comparable. But if for tourists everything ends at 3B - the most difficult category of the pass, then for climbers the routes reach 6B.

And finally Thirdly, the approach to organizing training and climbing is different, since training in mountaineering is based on initial stage takes place at the base of alpine camps under the guidance of an instructor.

What does it take to get into mountaineering? There are several options here:

You can simply buy a shift at a climbing camp - a kind of voucher - and come to this camp. This a good option for the person who wants to try mountaineering for the first time. Now many alpine camps have groups in in social networks, or web pages. There you can get all the necessary information. A shift in a mountain camp usually lasts two or three weeks - during this time the participants need to acclimatize to high-altitude conditions.
During a shift you can make several ascents to the peaks and master technical techniques.

The second option is to start mountaineering in your city at an alpine club or alpsection, even if there are no mountains nearby. The activities of alpine clubs are similar to the activities of sports tourist clubs, with the only difference being that they engage in mountaineering. Alpine clubs regularly organize on-site camps, usually at existing camps. Classes in an alpsection or alpine club will allow you to train in the periods between trips to the mountains, which is important.

I had the opportunity to visit several alpine camps, and I will tell you about them.

Alpine camp Tuyuk-Su

It is located in the Maloalmaatinsky gorge in the Republic of Kazakhstan, near the city of Almaty, and has a long history. The alpine camp is led by a master of sports in mountaineering and instructor of the 1st category, Artem Alekseevich Skopin.

Since the 40s, the Maloalmatinsky Gorge has been a place where people trained and practiced mountaineering. IN modern form The mountain camp has existed since 2005. It is located just above the famous ski resort Chimbulak. At the moment, there is excellent infrastructure there - by mountain standards. There is a road leading to the camp, there is electricity and 4G internet. The camp itself consists of several warm buildings and a dining room building, where a cook prepares food for the participants. There is a washing machine and even a bathhouse. The plans for 2018 were to complete the construction of another building and warm heated showers with a toilet.

The mountainous region itself from the point of view mountain routes represents an excellent starting point for beginners, as well as for those going to the 3rd and 2nd level. This is an abundance of routes from 1B difficulty category to 4B, but there are also several 5A routes. The mountains in this area are up to 4400 m high.

The camp also operates in winter period. In the off-season, when the mountains are dangerous due to avalanches, the alpine camp conducts rock shifts on the banks of the Ili River.

The friendly and stable instructor team is another plus of this camp.

Alpine camp New Ala-Archa

This mountain camp is located in Kyrgyzstan, not far from Bishkek. The camp operates under the guidance of the Honored Master of Sports, instructor of the first category, Dmitry Mikhailovich Grekov.

There is an asphalt road up to the height of 2100, where the living room and buildings of the old lower alpine camp are located. The mountain camp itself is located at an altitude of 3400 meters, the path to it leads along a 10-kilometer trail and takes 4-5 hours. The delivery of cargo for the functioning of the mountain camp is carried out by helicopter. There is a warm heated building on the territory, and the food is prepared by a cook. If we talk about comfort, here it is maximum for such height and isolation. There is connection only in a certain place, so here you can take a break from the Internet.

The mountainous region itself is more severe, the height of the peaks there is about 4800 meters. The area has routes of 1st and 2nd difficulty categories, but many more from 3rd to 6A, which makes it especially attractive for 2nd category and above.

Above the alpine camp, at an altitude of about 3800 meters, there are two ascetic mountain huts - “Science Hut” and “Crown Hut”, which means you can arrange a multi-day trip above the altitude of the alpine camp.

An undoubted advantage is the abundance of ice and combined routes to the peaks. The camp also operates in the winter, which provides an opportunity to work winter ice. In winter, naturally, it is difficult to live in a headscarf, but in a camp it is good.

Information about shifts can be found here

Mining school "Difficulty Category" named after. A.M. Stavnitser

This is not a stationary alpine camp, but rather a school, which operates in different mountain areas depending on the season. She works under the supervision of an international master of sports, first category instructor Mikhail Alexandrovich Sitnik.

In the spring, from approximately April to May, shifts take place in Crimea. From the second half of June to the end of July - in the Caucasus, at the base of the Elbrus UMC or the Bezengi alpine camp. From the second half of May to the end of October, events are again held in Crimea. And on New Year open the traditional winter ice climbing shift in the Caucasus. More accurate information on the school’s plans for the year is available at http://alpclub.ucoz.ru. Your questions will be answered promptly at